Hi I'm a new member and proud owner  of a Hare and Forbes (Australia)
4x6 Bandsaw. My first project has been to instal a chip brush, It's one of those
el cheapo rotary brushes that usually gets mounted in an electric drill. The
brush is mounted in a piece of nylon I rescued from the dumpster at work. The
brush mount is using the existing blade cover hinge holes. If I find that the
chip brush does not work I can easily
remove it and restore everything back to it's original setup

I also picked up a new saw from HF 2 months ago, and was pleasantly surprised to
find no issue with the gear box (no spurs and acceptable oil).  To be on the
save side I changed the oil anyway.  Perhaps the people who manufacture these
things are starting to take notice of their customer feedback.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "kroc_1948" <tjcork@...> wrote:
>
> Seems like most of the 4x6 bandsaw suffer from excessive vibration.
> Mine was no exception until i discovered the problem. I traced it to
> the flimsy motor mounting plate and the belt tensioning arrangement.
> (the frame was bending under belt tension, causing it to bounce).
> I replaced it with a fabricated frame base (1/4" x 1" angle) with a
> square bar welded to the side as a belt tensioner. The pivot is a 1/2"
> rod inside a suitable size tube, welded to the bottom of the frame. Now
> my saw has virtually no vibration. I have included some pics under
> MOTOR MOUNT.

I just finished making my own motor mount, similar to Kroc's design.

Mine is a 1/4" steel plate with two tabs welded on it for the pivot bolts.  The
tabs have nuts welded to the back to provide threads.  (It's cheaper than buying
a tap for a single use.)

I slotted the plate to match the slots on the original plate, so I can
reposition the motor or swap out for another as needed.

Lastly, for my tensioner, I put a turnbuckle between the right side of the motor
mount and the right end of the saw.  It makes for quick and easy tension
adjustments.  I may need to add a lucknut to the turnbuckle if it shows signs of
vibrating loose.

All in all, three hours of work and less than $10 for hardware at the Home
Despot.

And the saw is much quieter.  It probably wouldn't rattle at all if I'd clean
all the cut scraps and dryer lint out of the chip tray.  :)

Thanks for the idea, Kroc.

Fred

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "evinesca" <evines@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,My name is Ed and I've made about five cuts with my new saw. Has
> anyone figured a good way to install a chip brush like I've seen on
> some of the higher end saws? It seems this would keep many of the
> chips from fouling up the wheels, or am I too concerned about their
> effect?

Ed,

I've had major problems with the wheels fouling, but this only happens in
vertical mode where a chip brush is next to useless.

And what's messing me up isn't chips but chunks.  I'll be trimming a sliver of
metal off of the edge of a workpiece, and as it cuts free, the blade movement
pulls it down between a wheel and the blade.  Pow!  The blade stops and jumps
off of the lower wheel.

The solution, as I see it, is a better table with a tighter fitting slot so that
chunks cannot get down to the wheels.  It's on my to-do list.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "mslinks" <mslinks0@...> wrote:
>
> Hi I'm a new member and proud owner  of a Hare and Forbes (Australia)
> 4x6 Bandsaw. My first project has been to instal a chip brush, It's one of
those el cheapo rotary brushes that usually gets mounted in an electric drill.
The brush is mounted in a piece of nylon I rescued from the dumpster at work.
The brush mount is using the existing blade cover hinge holes. If I find that
the chip brush does not work I can easily
> remove it and restore everything back to it's original setup
>

I have a little piece of wood with a slot cut in it. I slip this piece of wood
loosely over the top of the blade and it sits just in front of the right hand
bearing guide assembly. When the blade is running the wood is carried rightwards
in the direction of blade travel and the wood snugs up to the bearing assembly
and sits nicely on the blade, floating around. The blade then runs through the
slot in the wood. Most of the debris that is on the blade then catches on the
wood and is wiped off the blade. The blade continues on its way fairly clean
after that point. If you see what I mean.

Steve

I have just put on ebay a very nice horizontal downfeed cylinder for 4 X6 or
similar saws. It is new and designed, developed, tested and built by me. It
works great with is brass needle vave that controls downfeed from 0 - fast.
Starts at $ 59.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hydraulic-Downfeed-for-Horizontal-Bandsaw_W0QQitemZ160356057\
782QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2555f742b6&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1\
4
Walt

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "walter h west" <walter.west2778@...> wrote:
>
> I have just put on ebay a very nice horizontal downfeed cylinder for 4 X6 or
similar saws. It is new and designed, developed, tested and built by me. It
works great with is brass needle vave that controls downfeed from 0 - fast.
Starts at $ 59.
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hydraulic-Downfeed-for-Horizontal-Bandsaw_W0QQitemZ160356057\
782QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2555f742b6&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1\
4
> Walt
>

That's quite a nice rig.  I can't bid, on account of being broke at the moment,
but I have questions.  Does it give resistance when you are lifting the saw, or
only on the down feed?

Any chance that you'll post plans for use DIYer's?

Fred

It has a small resistance when lifting up due to the fact the special internal
by pass is allowing the oil in the top of the cylinder to flow past the piston
so its ready for the next cut.
Walt

need info on hydraulic downfeed for HF 4x6 saw. dont know what size cylinder i
need. your input and pics would be great.

Look in the files section at
Bandsaw1 revised.jpg
Bandsaw2 revised.jpg
Bandsaw3 revised.jpg
Mike's design depicted there is a clean and simple DIY design.
I used it with some changes to make one about a year ago and love it.
MIne is in the photo album "Larry's stuff" and Mike's is in "Mike's bandsaw"



--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "jonkarell719" <jonkarell719@...> wrote:
>
> need info on hydraulic downfeed for HF 4x6 saw. dont know what size cylinder i
need. your input and pics would be great.
>

I checked the mods 1,2 and 3. It seems to be a modification of a Craftsman
horizontal band saw with a hydraulic cylinder that I have. It does not have a
spring, but it does have a short hydraulic cylinder and also a blade tension
gage to adjust the blade tension.
There is not enough detail in the drawings for one to easily build it. But maybe
that was the idea.
Walt

Take a look at mine in the photo section "DK's HF." I used the setup from the
larger HF saw 97009-4VGA. This was relatively easy and makes a sweet setup.

Regards,
Dick K.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "jonkarell719" <jonkarell719@...> wrote:
>
> need info on hydraulic downfeed for HF 4x6 saw. dont know what size cylinder i
need. your input and pics would be great.
>

In DK's HF photo, it shows a comercial hydraulic down feed cylinder as  a mod.
Do you mind telling us where you bought if and how much it costs.
Walt

Walt,
Sorry I forgot to include the info. It is the cylinder from the Harbor Freight
model 97007 7X12 saw.

It is item no. 216, Cylinder, complete set, RF-712N

As I recall, it was $70 to $80 with shipping. At the time I ordered, it only
took about a week to get it. (Quick by HF standards.)

It is really a joy to be able to dial the cut in.

Regards,

Dick K.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "walter h west" <walter.west2778@...> wrote:
>
> In DK's HF photo, it shows a comercial hydraulic down feed cylinder as  a mod.
Do you mind telling us where you bought if and how much it costs.
> Walt
>

-------------- Original message from "nowdkyle" <DKYLE@...>: --------------

 

Walt,
Sorry I forgot to include the info. It is the cylinder from the Harbor Freight model 97007 7X12 saw.

It is item no. 216, Cylinder, complete set, RF-712N

As I recall, it was $70 to $80 with shipping. At the time I ordered, it only took about a week to get it. (Quick by HF standards.)

It is really a joy to be able to dial the cut in.

Regards,

Dick K.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "walter h west" <walter.west2778@...> wrote:
>
> In DK's HF photo, it shows a comercial hydraulic down feed cylinder as a mod. Do you mind telling us where you bought if and how much it costs.
> Walt
>

I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas from this site.
Many thanks.

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@...> wrote:
>
> I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas from this site.
Many thanks.
>
Its listed under (mark42's saw)

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@...> wrote:
>
> --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@> wrote:
> >
> > I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas from this
site. Many thanks.
> >
> Its listed under (markp1610 saw)
>

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@...> wrote:
>
> --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@> wrote:
> >
> > I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas from this
site. Many thanks.
> >
> Its listed under (mark42's saw)
>I changed the photo title to markp1610 saw. sorry for the screwup

Nice job on your saw Mark.

Jon
--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@...> wrote:
>
> --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" pf6@ wrote:
> >
> > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas
from this site. Many thanks.
> > >
> > Its listed under (mark42's saw)
> >I changed the photo title to markp1610 saw. sorry for the screwup
>

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "jsppleasant@..." <jsppleasant@...> wrote:
>
>
> Nice job on your saw Mark.
>
> Jon
> --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" pf6@ wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "markp1610" <pf6@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas
> from this site. Many thanks.
> > > >
> > > Its listed under (mark42's saw)
> > >I changed the photo title to markp1610 saw. sorry for the screwup
> >
>Thanks hopefully I am done with it. But there aweays seems to be more that can
be done

Ed,
Thanks for the correction on the saw number. The "7" was a typo on my part.

Dick K.


--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, eparadis3@... wrote:
>
>
>
> Walt, I believe that the 97007 has been discontinued, but the 97009 uses the
same cylinder.
> Ed
>  -------------- Original message from "nowdkyle" <DKYLE@...>: --------------
>
>
>
>
>                   Walt,
> Sorry I forgot to include the info. It is the cylinder from the Harbor Freight
model 97007 7X12 saw.
>
> It is item no. 216, Cylinder, complete set, RF-712N
>
> As I recall, it was $70 to $80 with shipping. At the time I ordered, it only
took about a week to get it. (Quick by HF standards.)
>
> It is really a joy to be able to dial the cut in.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dick K.
>
> --- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "walter h west" <walter.west2778@> wrote:
> >
> > In DK's HF photo, it shows a comercial hydraulic down feed cylinder as  a
mod. Do you mind telling us where you bought if and how much it costs.
> > Walt
> >
>

How do you folks lock your saw into vertical mode?

I have the HF one and every time I use it in vertical, I later forget about the
angle bracket that "locks" it in the vertical position and just lower the saw
back into the horizonal position bending the bracket. (the bracket seems to be
made of silly-putty)

If you have a old saw they did not have a lock
The new one use a pin to lock it

Dave Smith

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "fastgriz" <brcarls@...> wrote:
>
> How do you folks lock your saw into vertical mode?
>
> I have the HF one and every time I use it in vertical, I later forget about
the angle bracket that "locks" it in the vertical position and just lower the
saw back into the horizonal position bending the bracket. (the bracket seems to
be made of silly-putty)
>

Mine has no lock.
----- Original Message -----
From: "fastgriz" <brcarls@...>
To: <4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 6:24 AM
Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Vertical mode


How do you folks lock your saw into vertical mode?

I have the HF one and every time I use it in vertical, I later forget about
the angle bracket that "locks" it in the vertical position and just lower
the saw back into the horizonal position bending the bracket. (the bracket
seems to be made of silly-putty)



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

"markp1610":

> > > I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas from this
site. Many thanks.
> > >
> > Its listed under (mark42's saw)
> >I changed the photo title to markp1610 saw. sorry for the screwup


Great looking stand!  Is that the downfeed speed valve sticking out of the side?

I'll make one suggestion, based on experience with my own homemade downfeed.  If
it's possible, you might consider rotating the cylinder, so that the tube
fitting is at the top instead of at the bottom.  That way, any air that might
get trapped in the cylinder, or might sneak in through the rod seal, will
self-purge.

Best wishes!

- John Herrmann
Corvallis, OR
guessed@...
hman_mit@...

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "hman_mit" <hman_mit@...> wrote:
>
> "markp1610":
>
> > > > I added some pictures of my saw. Many upgrades done from ideas from this
site. Many thanks.
> > > >
> > > Its listed under (mark42's saw)
> > >I changed the photo title to markp1610 saw. sorry for the screwup
>
>
> Great looking stand!  Is that the downfeed speed valve sticking out of the
side?
>
> I'll make one suggestion, based on experience with my own homemade downfeed. 
If it's possible, you might consider rotating the cylinder, so that the tube
fitting is at the top instead of at the bottom.  That way, any air that might
get trapped in the cylinder, or might sneak in through the rod seal, will
self-purge.
>
> Best wishes!
>
> - John Herrmann
> Corvallis, OR
> guessed@...
> hman_mit@...
>
Yes thats the flow control valve. I had the lines at the top at first but I was
worried they would get and broken. If I get air in the lines I will take your
advice. Thanks for your input.

Just hold it
Push the part in but do not backup till the saw is stop
Or the other way make a lock  (Vis grip)

Dave Smith

--- In 4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com, "Glenn N" <sleykin@...> wrote:
>
> Mine has no lock.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "fastgriz" <brcarls@...>
> To: <4x6bandsaw@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 6:24 AM
> Subject: [4x6bandsaw] Vertical mode
>
>
> How do you folks lock your saw into vertical mode?
>
> I have the HF one and every time I use it in vertical, I later forget about
> the angle bracket that "locks" it in the vertical position and just lower
> the saw back into the horizonal position bending the bracket. (the bracket
> seems to be made of silly-putty)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

Hi Folks,
I'm new to the group and have a couple of quick questions.  I'm just about to
buy a 4x6 bandsaw and have been looking at the Grizzly model G0622.  But I
recently noticed that the Enco 5x6 (#505-6840) is on sale.  I noticed two things
when comparing the two:
1) The motor in Enco saw is rated at 1/3 HP whereas the Grizzly motor is rated
at 3/4 HP.  Is this difference real or should I regard these "ratings" as a bit
fuzzy?
2)  The Enco saw looks like it has a sturdier base, although without wheels.  Is
that right, or is it just my imagination.  (I know there has been a lot of
discussion about building new stands for these saws, but I'm up to my eyeballs
in projects and so it may take me a while before I can get to that one...)
Any comments would be welcomed!
Thanks.
Mark

I have the Harbor freight version of the saw.  I have really enjoyed it.  As far
as the motor, so far so good with mine.  Some of the hp ratings may be suspect. 
If you can, compare the amp ratings.  I would bet either motor would be fine.

As for the stand, I just added 4 metal braces to the legs, 1 on each side and 1
on the front and back and my original stand has worked fine also.

It was also suggested to change the gear oil as it may be contaminated.  I
changed mine, but the original oil looked clean.

Get a bi-metal blade for the saw if it does not come with one.

Wayne