Please send me a copy of the photo.

Don18@...

Hi everyone, I'm new to this group, but not to machining.
I've been a machinist for 12 years now.

I wanted to offer a my 2 cents on the subject of carbide/toolsteel
tooling.

My recomendations:
Carbide should be used at high RPM (Aluminum & Brass>2000+)
Toolsteel will work best for threading and rough turning because of the
slower RPM.
When using carbide, a larger tool nose radius will always give a better
finish.

Also, when sharpening carbide, NEVER let it get excessively hot and
NEVER dip hot carbide in water, it will cause the carbide to fracture.

With toolsteel bits grind a high positive rake when cutting soft
material, leave the tip at neutral when cutting harder materials.
When sharpening toolsteel bits, always use a fine(320 or finer) sanding
belt or disk to dress the bit after grinding. This will produce a
better surface finish and will help keep the cutting edge sharp.

Hope this helps,
Don P.


"Only a fool won't ask questions."

<7ntjke$ugv-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1027
> OK here is the situation. I have the shiny new drill rod that I am
> going to use to make a test bar for turning between centers. In all of
> the articles that I have read, you need to drill a hole in the exact
> center of that rod so that it will work right. I am doing this so that
> I can calibrate my tailstock. Now how am I supposed to drill a hole
> perfectly in the center if my tailstock is not perfectly centered? It
> kind of seems like a catch 22 situation.
>

Another way to check the tailstock is to take a piece of stock ~1",
chuck it in the lathe then drill and bore a hole ~1/4" then bore a 60
degree included angle in the end (equivelant to that of a center). Then
bring the tailstock (with live center) close to the part. Mount an
indicator with the tip on the side of the live center, slowly tighten
the tailstock, once tight, snug the spindle lock. Note the error on the
indicator. Now adjust the tailstock using another indicator then
recheck the alignment. You should be able to get it aligned within
.0001".  This is how we do it at work.

Don P.

<7nv90h$i4n-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1036
> Hi everyone, I'm new to this group, but not to machining.
> I've been a machinist for 12 years now.
>
> I wanted to offer a my 2 cents on the subject of carbide/toolsteel
> tooling.

All Right, Don!
Welcome to the group--you can help keep us from totally destroying our
lathes, and of course, ourselves.

Your comments were right on! I have had much better luck with the
carbide tipped bits.  Probably because I am impatient and also could
not get my lathe to slow down.
Thanks Again,
Toby Billings, Flagstaff, AZ

Glad I could help.

Having worked on the best, Hardinge Super Precision Toolroom Lathes,
and numerouc CNC machines, this little lathe is going to be a major
project
for me to get into shape.

Have read all the posts, some really nice modifications and accessories.

Just finished some aluminium wheels for my gas R/C Car, hope to go into
production some time soon.

I'm currently working on a power feed unit(driven by a seperate motor,
not the lead screw) for the carriage and cross-slide.
Will post all info when it is finished.

Don P.
Keep making chips.

Hi All,

Does anyone know what kind of maintenance and lubrication headstock
needs?
It looks like a major operation to get inside just to take a look.

Thanks,
Yury Brodsky.

Well, I've about tuned up the 7x10.  Have it mounted by 3" 6mm bolts to
an old butcher board top and old kitchen cabinets to make a lathe
stand/cabinet.  I kept the bottom pan and rubber feet intact to
minimize any stress/twisting of the lathe body and ways as I tighted
the bolts to the table top.  I have ordered a new tailstock casting
($13.49, and NOT in stock).  Hoping to get the two piece version, mine
is one piece and is not adjustable at all(made in 1996).  Every thing
is cleaned, lubed and adjusted to take out as much backlash as
possible. Leadscrew is centered to the Halfnuts.  But I have one
consistent problem which follows:

When I tighten the gibs enough to eliminate any play side to side or
teetering up and down on the crossslide and the topslide, they are so
tight that they are impossible to turn.  If I loosen the gibs enough to
turn with minimal to moderate effort, there is enough play in the
slides that I can move the toolrest SEVERAL thousandths up and down or
side to side.

Questions:  Will light polishing of the gibs on a file or India Stone
help me here?  What harm can come of this?  Has anyone here had to do
this?  How much play in the toolrest system is tolerated?  Any???

Ready to roll once I lick this dilema.

Rick C.

I bought my lathe "new" in "as is" condition from Grizzly Imports for
$244.  Someone had returned it saying the Headstock was out of
alignment.  That was bull*!#@ because they hadn't even bothered to
degrease the machine so they couldn't have measured it.  It checks out
fine with my indicator.  But the machine was built in 1996.  Now I see
why Grizzly discontinued their sale of the unit.  They wanted $499 and
had to hold stock for 2 to 3 years!

The "problem" I now have is that my controls look nothing like the ones
shown on Jose's tapes or Varmit Al's website.  I have found three gold
colored "pots?" with the typical slotted adjustments on them, but there
is nothing written anywhere on the board.  Furthermore, they are not
lined up, but are spaced about the board.

Has anyone had any problems adjusting the pots on their machine?  What
risks do you think I'll take by slowing playing with one 'pot' at a
time?  Is this something like playing with dynamite or more akin to
playing with a carburator on an old Chevy?

Rick C.

<7o56di$evl-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1043
>
> Questions:  Will light polishing of the gibs on a file or India Stone
> help me here?  What harm can come of this?  Has anyone here had to do
> this?  How much play in the toolrest system is tolerated?  Any???
>
> Ready to roll once I lick this dilema.
>
> Rick C.
>
Hello Rick,
        I had pretty much the same experience with the gib adjustment,
not
only on this lathe but others as well.  Obviously, there is a trade-off
between being too tight and wear of the leadscrew and nut, not to
mention
the effort required to turn the crank.  When I replaced the topslide on
my HF 7X10 I chose one that is made of much higher quality materials and
the gib with associated surfaces is highly polished. The hardness and
the
smoothness of the leadscrew is also superior.  I haven't tried lapping
the
original, but I would be tempted to try.  So long as the lapping
compound
is carefully removed after the surfaces are smooth, I can't see any
problem.
Replacing the original gib with one made of bronze would also be a good
idea because the bronze has a lubricating quality when used against
steel
surfaces.  The original parts are made of cast iron which is a pretty
good
material for this application, but the original gib is made of steel
which
is not so good!  Using a high quality machine tool lubricant will also
help
reduce friction and wear. I use Chevron 'Vactra' oil for all the wear
surfaces on my tools.  Good luck with it!
                                            Gordon Scott

Smooth operating cross slide and compound rest are a must. When I first
got the lathe, the adjustments were very poor and the fit was crude.  I
removed the gib screws and the gib plates. Then I took only the side
that contacted the dovetail and filed/honed it flat.  I started with a
flat smooth mill file and finished with a 6x2" diamond hone that is
very flat. I laid the file flat on the table and moved the gib plate
over the file longways first till it got close to smooth. Then I
finished with the diamond hone which left a very smooth flat surface on
the "business" side. The contact side of the compound rest gib plate
was so bad, that I flipped it over and drilled new screw detents in the
other side and file/honed the other side (best side) flat. It was
previously the sides where the screws were seated. I did not lap the
dovetail contact area. I think that will cause uneven surfaces
(assuming that the dovetail is uniform to start with). After I had the
gib plates flat, I assembled the slides with a good load of Super
Grease with Teflon and Super Grease on both shafts and brass nuts. It
worked pretty well after that. I did fuss around with the adjustments.
At first I had it all a bit too tight, but I have loosened the gibs up
a bit to where the handles turn easier and it works pretty well. It is
not like a LeBlond, but it will sure make chips...

Let the chips fly from Varmint Al

Al Harral
varmint@...

Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page
http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm

<7o561l$f9s-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1042
> Hi All,
>
> Does anyone know what kind of maintenance and lubrication headstock
> needs?
> It looks like a major operation to get inside just to take a look.
>
> Thanks,
> Yury Brodsky.
>
>
The only thing inside the headstock are the spindle bearings.
I reaserched the Timkin Part Number, and they are supposed to be
sealed bearings not needing any maintenance.

Don P.
Conshohocken, PA

> Questions:  Will light polishing of the gibs on a file or India Stone
> help me here?  What harm can come of this?  Has anyone here had to do
> this?  How much play in the toolrest system is tolerated?  Any???
>
> Ready to roll once I lick this dilema.
>
> Rick C.
>

If you have that type of movement, it sounds like the dovetail is bad.
I stoned all the ways and dovetails on my machine immediately after I
received
it. To stone the dovetails, I used a Fine grit Norton triangle India
stone
and lubricated it with light cutting oil, WD-40 will do fine.
As AL said, de sure to thoroughly clean and grease all parts before
reassembly.
Mine now functions "ALMOST" as smoothly as a precision ground lathe.

Don P.
Conshohocken, PA

> The only thing inside the headstock are the spindle bearings.
> I reaserched the Timkin Part Number, and they are supposed to be
> sealed bearings not needing any maintenance.
>
> Don P.
> Conshohocken, PA
>
Don, do you have the Timkin Part Number for the bearings. I am thinking
about replacing the ball bearings in mine with precision bearings not
made in China. Also, is there a direct replacement taper pin roller
bearing of the same size? I am not worried about load and heat, but I
think a person would get a finer finishing cut with GOOD bearings.

Thanks for any info.

Let the chips fly from Varmint Al

Al Harral
varmint@...

Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page
http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm

I got a Micro-Mark Small Tool catalog a few weeks ago and ordered a
couple of what they call an Animation Gearmoter #82090 on special for
$7.95. It is 2" OD by 1" tall and has a approx. .275" shaft. I have
already drilled and tapped the end of the lead screw for 1/4-20 so I
can make an extension on the right end. I will mount a 1/4" thick
plastic plate at the end of the bed ways to mount the motor. The
extension that threads into the end of the lead screw will have a hole
that accepts the motor shaft and then I will put a shear pin through
the extension and motor shaft of about 1/8" in diameter of aluminum.
(safety pin). The motor runs on 110AC and the shaft turns as 2.5 rpm.
It will be good for very fine finishing cuts. At about 300 rpm lathe
speed and 2.5 rpm lead screw speed, the 16 tpi will be about 1920 tpi.
Those are fine threads! Or the advancement will be about 0.0005 per
turn. It would also be possible to put the other motor on the far end
of the cross slide and have a fine crossfeed. I haven't figured out how
to mount the motor there yet. I hope the feed is not too slow. Probably
a motor of about 10 rpm would be much better, but I don't know if they
exist.

Let the chips fly from Varmint Al

Al Harral
varmint@...

Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page
http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: varmint@... <varmint@...>
To: 7x10minilathe@egroups.com <7x10minilathe@egroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 4:11 AM
Subject: [7x10minilathe] A very fine power feed using the lead screw.

I got a Micro-Mark Small Tool catalog a few weeks ago and ordered a couple of what they call an Animation Gearmoter #82090 on special for $7.95. It is 2" OD by 1" tall and has a approx. .275" shaft. I have already drilled and tapped the end of the lead screw for 1/4-20 so I can make an extension on the right end. I will mount a 1/4" thick plastic plate at the end of the bed ways to mount the motor. The extension that threads into the end of the lead screw will have a hole that accepts the motor shaft and then I will put a shear pin through the extension and motor shaft of about 1/8" in diameter of aluminum. (safety pin). The motor runs on 110AC and the shaft turns as 2.5 rpm. It will be good for very fine finishing cuts. At about 300 rpm lathe speed and 2.5 rpm lead screw speed, the 16 tpi will be about 1920 tpi. Those are fine threads! Or the advancement will be about 0.0005 per turn. It would also be possible to put the other motor on the far end of the cross slide and have a fine crossfeed. I haven't figured out how to mount the motor there yet. I hope the feed is not too slow. Probably a motor of about 10 rpm would be much better, but I don't know if they exist. Let the chips fly from Varmint Al Al Harral varmint@... Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm

---

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I left out some important info. The catalog is from Micro-Mark
www.micromark.com and they will send you a catalog from their web site
if you fill out the form. Most of the tools are tiny!! I mean small
type tiny but it looks like quality stuff. It is model builder stuff.
The other thing is that the motor is not reversible and turns such that
when mounted on the end of the lead screw, the carriage will advance
toward the chuck like one normally cuts.

Also, when the motor is in use, one needs to remove the gears from the
left end of the lead screw. If one accidentally engaged the gear train
and the motor is connected, the shear pin would shear or gears would
strip or something bad. I will tell how it works after I get it running
in a couple of days. Right now here in California, we are trying to
Repeal SB23 a gun grabbing law and I am busy getting signatures for a
referendum for next March's election.


Let the chips fly from Varmint Al

Al Harral
varmint@...

Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page
http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: varmint@... <varmint@...>
To: 7x10minilathe@egroups.com <7x10minilathe@egroups.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 03, 1999 4:25 AM
Subject: [7x10minilathe] Re: A very fine power feed using the lead screw.

I left out some important info. The catalog is from Micro-Mark www.micromark.com and they will send you a catalog from their web site if you fill out the form. Most of the tools are tiny!! I mean small type tiny but it looks like quality stuff. It is model builder stuff. The other thing is that the motor is not reversible and turns such that when mounted on the end of the lead screw, the carriage will advance toward the chuck like one normally cuts. Also, when the motor is in use, one needs to remove the gears from the left end of the lead screw. If one accidentally engaged the gear train and the motor is connected, the shear pin would shear or gears would strip or something bad. I will tell how it works after I get it running in a couple of days. Right now here in California, we are trying to Repeal SB23 a gun grabbing law and I am busy getting signatures for a referendum for next March's election. Let the chips fly from Varmint Al Al Harral varmint@... Varmint Al's Mini Lathe Page http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/alath.htm

---

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<7nuvvd$d99-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1031
> Where can I buy the "correct" replacement chuck for the HF lathe, one
> with at least a .75-.80 inch hole?  There are several 4" chucks but
> which one?
> And do I need another faceplate?
> My stock chuck from HF would not take even a 5/8 rod but the spindle
> bore is about .75+ inch.
> I reamed the stock chuck to 5/8 but that still not big enough.  I need
> that extra 1/8 inch.   Thanks. Any advice appreciated.
>
> Tim Brunett
> Baton Rouge, La.
>

I used the 4 jaw from J&L.  It is a direct fit for the 7x10 and seems
to be
decent quality.  It is already pre-drilled for 4 mounting studs which
you will need to scrounge up (4 6 x 32 metric studs). The recess is
already machined so you just mount it and go.
mounting holes

I cost about $75.  I don't remember the catalog number off hand but if
you look back through my posts I did post all of the info back several
months ago.

Eric

Thanks for your recommendations, Don.  Any tips on tool making are
greatly appreciated.  I've found I tend to use my round nose tools the
most, and I'm guessing it's because they're more forgiving.  I'm still
using the stock grinding wheels and have heard they are misserable
compared to after-market replacements.  Do you have a brand
recommendation for a grinding wheel?

The whole "rake" idea has me a little baffled.  I understand hook in
woodworking, but I think rake has something to do with chip clearance.
What I don't understand is how you grind a tool bit to have rake
without throwing it below center. --?

Any more tips?  I know I sure need them, and would suspect others would
too.  I know this tends to be more in the general metalworking category
and not as specific to the HF lathe, but it's applicable at the very
least.

Thanks again!

Mike Welch
Dallas

  <7nv90h$i4n-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1036
> Hi everyone, I'm new to this group, but not to machining.
> I've been a machinist for 12 years now.
>
> I wanted to offer a my 2 cents on the subject of carbide/toolsteel
> tooling.
>
> My recomendations:
> Carbide should be used at high RPM (Aluminum & Brass>2000+)
> Toolsteel will work best for threading and rough turning because of
the
> slower RPM.
> When using carbide, a larger tool nose radius will always give a
better
> finish.
>
> Also, when sharpening carbide, NEVER let it get excessively hot and
> NEVER dip hot carbide in water, it will cause the carbide to fracture.
>
> With toolsteel bits grind a high positive rake when cutting soft
> material, leave the tip at neutral when cutting harder materials.
> When sharpening toolsteel bits, always use a fine(320 or finer)
sanding
> belt or disk to dress the bit after grinding. This will produce a
> better surface finish and will help keep the cutting edge sharp.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Don P.
>
>
> "Only a fool won't ask questions."
>

Ordered the tailstock casting, huh?  Did they say how long it'd be
before it came in?  I still need to order one myself.  Just haven't
gotten around to it.

We have the exact same problem with the cross slides.  I have already
tried sanding mine with 400 grit paper (and then 600 if I remember
correctly).  Oddly, mine had two sets of divots in the cross (not top)
slide.  It's as if they drilled the set screw dimples, realized theys
screwed up, flipped the gib and did it again.  They didn't bother to
deburr it either!  So I deburred mine and smoothed it out.

The result was a slight improvement at first, but now I think it's not
such a good idea.  The problem is, you reduce the size of the gib and
if your situation is anything like mine, your gib will then be too
narrow for the slot and will sit at an angle to the dovetail of the
cross slide, which is where I think the binding comes from.

I have decided that with my lathe, it's better to have it smooth and a
little lose than too tight.  If it's too tight, adjustments are
sporatic and cause me to jump into the workpiece too fast.

I have been advised that I should just make a new gib.  But I had a
hard enough time trying to true the one I had up.  Making the angle,
sanding it to be square and true, is probably something I just can't
do.  Unless somebody has a trick of some kind for this --??

If I did make a new gib, I'd make it out of brass.  I just bought a
Taig milling attachment for my lathe, and although the slide is
aluminum, they use a brass gib and it's very very smooth!  And tight as
a drum, too!  Imagine!!!

So brass seems to be a good material to use.

Let me know what your progress is and if you come up with a way to
fabricate your own gib, or fix the one you have.  I have the same
trouble and have to adjust mine about once a week for whatever reason.
It's a real pain!

Mike

  <7o56di$evl-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1043
> Well, I've about tuned up the 7x10.  Have it mounted by 3" 6mm bolts
to
> an old butcher board top and old kitchen cabinets to make a lathe
> stand/cabinet.  I kept the bottom pan and rubber feet intact to
> minimize any stress/twisting of the lathe body and ways as I tighted
> the bolts to the table top.  I have ordered a new tailstock casting
> ($13.49, and NOT in stock).  Hoping to get the two piece version, mine
> is one piece and is not adjustable at all(made in 1996).  Every thing
> is cleaned, lubed and adjusted to take out as much backlash as
> possible. Leadscrew is centered to the Halfnuts.  But I have one
> consistent problem which follows:
>
> When I tighten the gibs enough to eliminate any play side to side or
> teetering up and down on the crossslide and the topslide, they are so
> tight that they are impossible to turn.  If I loosen the gibs enough
to
> turn with minimal to moderate effort, there is enough play in the
> slides that I can move the toolrest SEVERAL thousandths up and down or
> side to side.
>
> Questions:  Will light polishing of the gibs on a file or India Stone
> help me here?  What harm can come of this?  Has anyone here had to do
> this?  How much play in the toolrest system is tolerated?  Any???
>
> Ready to roll once I lick this dilema.
>
> Rick C.
>

Do you have your compound pictured?  I've seen someone's replacement
and have been looking for a compound that didn't cost an arm and a leg
(no such animal so far).  It's a real pleasure to work when it's
smooth, huh?

I wonder if these are standard dovetails and if there are replacement
gibs out there?

I have wondered about the use of steel ("metal" is what Jose calls
them) against iron.  Seems like you'd want a softer material for the
gibs, not harder!  You'd ruin your compound over time otherwise.

  <7o5hv9$fmi-@egroups.com> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=1045
>  <7o56di$evl-@egroups.com> wrote:
> original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/7x10minilathe/?start=10
43
> >
> > Questions:  Will light polishing of the gibs on a file or India
Stone
> > help me here?  What harm can come of this?  Has anyone here had to
do
> > this?  How much play in the toolrest system is tolerated?  Any???
> >
> > Ready to roll once I lick this dilema.
> >
> > Rick C.
> >
> Hello Rick,
>        I had pretty much the same experience with the gib adjustment,
> not
> only on this lathe but others as well.  Obviously, there is a
trade-off
> between being too tight and wear of the leadscrew and nut, not to
> mention
> the effort required to turn the crank.  When I replaced the topslide
on
> my HF 7X10 I chose one that is made of much higher quality materials
and
> the gib with associated surfaces is highly polished. The hardness and
> the
> smoothness of the leadscrew is also superior.  I haven't tried lapping
> the
> original, but I would be tempted to try.  So long as the lapping
> compound
> is carefully removed after the surfaces are smooth, I can't see any
> problem.
> Replacing the original gib with one made of bronze would also be a
good
> idea because the bronze has a lubricating quality when used against
> steel
> surfaces.  The original parts are made of cast iron which is a pretty
> good
> material for this application, but the original gib is made of steel
> which
> is not so good!  Using a high quality machine tool lubricant will also
> help
> reduce friction and wear. I use Chevron 'Vactra' oil for all the wear
> surfaces on my tools.  Good luck with it!
>                                            Gordon Scott
>
>

I have this chuck as well and it's a piece of cake to mount, and is of
good quality (especially for under $100). Of course, I think the stock
chuck is pretty good, so factor that into your decision making :)

> I used the 4 jaw from J&L.  It is a direct fit for the 7x10 and seems
> to be
> decent quality.  It is already pre-drilled for 4 mounting studs which
> you will need to scrounge up (4 6 x 32 metric studs). The recess is
> already machined so you just mount it and go.
> mounting holes
>
> I cost about $75.  I don't remember the catalog number off hand but if
> you look back through my posts I did post all of the info back several
> months ago.
>
> Eric
>

The catalog number on the chuck is PCC-19500A, and retails for $75.60 (page
1652 of J&L's 1998-99 catalog). J&L's phone number is 1-800-521-9520.

Mike
Carrollton, TX (at work)

> I used the 4 jaw from J&L.  It is a direct fit for the 7x10 and seems
> to be
> decent quality.  It is already pre-drilled for 4 mounting studs which
> you will need to scrounge up (4 6 x 32 metric studs). The recess is
> already machined so you just mount it and go.
> mounting holes
>
> I cost about $75.  I don't remember the catalog number off hand but if
> you look back through my posts I did post all of the info back several
> months ago.
>
> Eric
>


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The manufacturers of the 7x10 must have used the cheapest paint possible, at
least on mine.

Last night I put a chip shield on the back side of the apron to keep chips
out of the handwheel gears. When I removed the apron, I noticed that quite a
lot of chips and oil had accumulated there. To clean things up, I applied
some brake parts cleaner to the gears and the back of the apron. Well, it
did a good job of cleaning things up, but and also dissolved any paint that
it came in contact with.

Just an observation on may part. Perhaps a water-soluble cleaner (like
Simple Green or 409) would not have damaged the finish. If you want to strip
the paint, try brake parts cleaner.

Mike
Carrollton, TX (at work)

The bearings which Don referenced in his message (6206ZZ) are available
through W.W. Grainger for $10.66 each.

The only drawback is that Grainger sells "business-to-business" or wholesale
only. To get around this, you could either order them through your employer
(if they buy from Grainger) or just make up a company name. They don't seem
to object when you pay with cash.

Mike
Carrollton, TX (at work)