Colonial Furniture in America, Lockwood  1957
Reproduction of Antique Furn, Hjorth, 1924
Cabinet  makers of America, Bjerkoe   0916838145
Williamsburg Reproductions Cats, 1965 & 1982
Furniture/ Furniture finishing/ decoration/ Patching, Pattou and Vaughn, 1944
The story of american Furniture, ormsbee, 1946
New England Furniture/ the colonial era, Jobe&Kaye, 0395344069
Furniture of the Pilgrim Century, PB Vol 2 reprint 1924
Furniture Treasury, Nutting, 1961
English Antique Furniture, Learoyd, 0442259522
Making a chair from a tree: an introduction to working green wood, Alexander,
0918804019
A Windsor Handbook, Nutting, 02720003504615
Furnishing the Colonial And Federal House, Mcclelland, 1947
American Painted Furniture 1660-1880, Fales, 0525053875
Furniture of the Pilgrim Century, Nutting, 1921
Early American Rooms 1650-1858, Kettell, 486216330
Historic Cabinet Woods, Hinckley, 1960
Victorian Cabinet-makers Assistant, Blackie and Sons, 1970
Early American Furniture, Kirk, 0394706463
Antique Furniture, Hinckley, 1953
American Furniture - The Federal Period, Montgomery 0517249464
The American Clock, Dustin & Bishop, 0517413590
Mason & Sullivan clock catalogue 1990
American Country Furniture 1780-1875, Kovel, 1965
Southern Antiques, borroughs, 0517087154
Bermudas Antique Furniture and Silver, Hyde, 1971  ***
american Interior Design, Rogers, 1947
Early American  Rooms, Sweeney, 0517249472
Early American Furniture Makers, Ormsbee, 1930
American antique furniture, Miller, Vol 1, 1937 reprint
Furniture Treasury, Nutting, Vol 3, 1933
Furniture and Decoration, Aronson, 1941
Early American Decorative Patterns, Sabine, 0517112329
American Antique Decoration, Sabine, 0517114577
The Clock Book, Craft Products Cataloge
EArly New England Wall Stencils, Jewett, 0517535610
EArly American Wall Stencils, Waring, 1937
Colonial Interiors, Federal/ Greek Revival, Eberlein & Hubbard, 1938
Early American Decorating Techniques, Slayton, 0020069502
American Folk Art, Sabine, 0517115824
American Folk Decoration, Lipman, 1951 PB
American Decorative Wall Painting 1700-1850, Little, 0525473351
the Art of Decorative Stenciling, Bishop& Lord, 0140048421
Early American Wall Stencils in color,  Fjelstul, Schad 0525932143
Two hundred Years of Clocks and Watches, Bailey, 0139351302
American Furniture in the MMA, 0870994271
Nineteenth Century Furniture, 0823080048
Historic Deerfield: Houses and Interiors, Chamberlain and Flynt, 0803830270
The Index of American Design, Christiansen, 1950
Treasury of American Design, Hornung, 0810905167

I'd  be interested in any books on old trunks or stamped tin finishes
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with Nextel Direct Connect

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom <oldeagle7@...>
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 05:39:48
To: <AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Antique Restoration] Antique Furnature Restoration Books f/s

Certainly. could you list te titles and what you'd want for them?

TWR

For Small Creatures Such As We, The Vastness Is Only Bearable Through Love -
Carl Sagan

--- On Sat, 12/26/09, Mike <braueb@...> wrote:


From: Mike <braueb@...>
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Antique Furnature Restoration Books f/s
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 26, 2009, 4:33 PM


 



i have a huge collection of books on furniture design/ restoration/
reproduction, etc. Are there any members out that that have interest in old
books on the subject??











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- "Mike" <braueb@...> wrote:
>
> Are there any members out that that have interest in old books
> on the subject??
>

Yes
Talk to me ...

Mike,
I would be interested in the books, especially those of design and reproduction.
Not so much so of any that may deal with building furniture, per se.

Please let me know the details.
Thanks,
Bill Giblin
 
 




________________________________
From: Mike <braueb@...>
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, December 26, 2009 5:33:38 PM
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Antique Furnature Restoration Books f/s

 
i have a huge collection of books on furniture design/ restoration/
reproduction, etc. Are there any members out that that have interest in old
books on the subject??







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Certainly. could you list te titles and what you'd want for them?

TWR

For Small Creatures Such As We, The Vastness Is Only Bearable Through Love -
Carl Sagan

--- On Sat, 12/26/09, Mike <braueb@...> wrote:


From: Mike <braueb@...>
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Antique Furnature Restoration Books f/s
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 26, 2009, 4:33 PM


 



i have a huge collection of books on furniture design/ restoration/
reproduction, etc. Are there any members out that that have interest in old
books on the subject??











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <braueb@...> wrote:
>
> i have a huge collection of books on furniture design/ restoration/
reproduction, etc.  Are there any members out that that have interest in old
books on the subject??
>

  Post a list with ISBN, title  authors and year published. I know quite a number
of folks that would be interested.

i have a huge collection of books on furniture design/ restoration/
reproduction, etc.  Are there any members out that that have interest in old
books on the subject??

Warm Greetings To All Members!


  Very appreciative THANKS to all members that contribute to this group!

  The PHOTOS look GREAT EVERYONE, let's continue adding to them and to
  encourage new discussions!

Thanks for looking.

--- On Thu, 12/3/09, maceydesign <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


From: maceydesign <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Re: Eastlake bed bracket.
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, December 3, 2009, 2:14 PM


 




Alan-
On your Eastlake bedrail bracket, don't have one quite like in your photo. I've
various horseshoe open and closed brackets, round brackets
both single and double cleat (t-shaped) but nothing as yours. I'd find
a blacksmith in your area to replicate yours. Sorry couldn't help you
out.
-Matthew











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Alan-
   On your Eastlake bedrail bracket, don't have one quite like in your photo.
I've various horseshoe open and closed brackets, round brackets
both single and double cleat (t-shaped) but nothing as yours. I'd find
a blacksmith in your area to replicate yours. Sorry couldn't help you
out.
-Matthew

Thanks Matthew, look forward to hearing from you.

--- On Sat, 11/28/09, maceydesign <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


From: maceydesign <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Re: Eastlake bed bracket.
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 28, 2009, 2:01 PM


 



Gotcha there! I have a number of them I've collected over the years. I'll note
your measurements and check with what I have and get back to you!

Matthew

--- In AntiqueRestoration@ yahoogroups. com, "AlanE" <caeast2001@ ...> wrote:
>
> I have looked everywhere I can think of online to find a bracket like the ones
I have on an Easlake bed I'm restoring. MIne is the horseshoe type with a single
hook. I've posted a picture in the Eastlake Bed Bracket folder in the photos
section of the AntiqueRestoration group page. The one I have measures 3-1/8 od
at the widest point, the post which closes the horseshoe is 2-3/4" tall. The
horseshoe is 2-1/4" od from flat part of circle to outside of post, it is 2-1/2"
tall od and 1-3/4" id. If anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.
>
> Thanks
> -- Alan
>











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gotcha there! I have a number of them I've collected over the years. I'll note
your measurements and check with what I have and get back to you!

Matthew

--- In AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com, "AlanE" <caeast2001@...> wrote:
>
> I have looked everywhere I can think of online to find a bracket like the ones
I have on an Easlake bed I'm restoring. MIne is the horseshoe type with a single
hook. I've posted a picture in the Eastlake Bed Bracket folder in the photos
section of the AntiqueRestoration group page. The one I have measures 3-1/8 od
at the widest point, the post which closes the horseshoe is 2-3/4" tall. The
horseshoe is 2-1/4" od from flat part of circle to outside of post, it is 2-1/2"
tall od and 1-3/4" id. If anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.
>
> Thanks
> -- Alan
>

I have looked everywhere I can think of online to find a bracket like the ones I
have on an Easlake bed I'm restoring. MIne is the horseshoe type with a single
hook. I've posted a picture in the Eastlake Bed Bracket folder in the photos
section of the AntiqueRestoration group page. The one I have measures 3-1/8 od
at the widest point, the post which closes the horseshoe is 2-3/4" tall. The
horseshoe is 2-1/4" od from flat part of circle to outside of post, it is 2-1/2"
tall od and 1-3/4" id. If anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.

Thanks
-- Alan

I could really use the dresser but I do not have a truck. I can work on that.
Could you save this for m e

Karen 617-319-9542




________________________________
From: James <dragonoake@...>
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, November 17, 2009 10:33:12 AM
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Oak Dresser

 
I have recently acquired an oak dresser that once belonged to my great grandma
and was wondering if anyone could give me information about it; or any matching
pieces (especially the bed)

Overall view: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/dresser-1.jpg

Details, starting from the top and working my way down

Carved header: http://img.photobuc ket.com/albums/ v157/dragonoake/ topcarving.
jpg

Top of mirror support: http://img.photobuc ket.com/albums/ v157/dragonoake/
sideposttop. jpg

Bottom of mirror support: http://img.photobuc ket.com/albums/ v157/dragonoake/
sidepost1. jpg

Carving on panel below the mirror: http://img.photobuc ket.com/albums/
v157/dragonoake/ middlecarving. jpg

Drawer hardware: http://img.photobuc ket.com/albums/ v157/dragonoake/ hardware.
jpg

Carving on the leg:
http://img.photobuc ket.com/albums/ v157/dragonoake/ legcarving. jpg

Carving from the bottom panel: http://img.photobuc ket.com/albums/
v157/dragonoake/ bottomcarving. jpg







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have recently acquired an oak dresser that once belonged to my great grandma
and was wondering if anyone could give me information about it; or any matching
pieces (especially the bed)

Overall view: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/dresser-1.jpg

Details, starting from the top and working my way down

Carved header: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/topcarving.jpg

Top of mirror support:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/sideposttop.jpg

Bottom of mirror support:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/sidepost1.jpg

Carving on panel below the mirror:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/middlecarving.jpg

Drawer hardware: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/hardware.jpg

Carving on the leg:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/legcarving.jpg

Carving from the bottom panel:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/dragonoake/bottomcarving.jpg

Hi,

You have not old us what timber the case is made of, if it is oak then the
surface was probably finished with just wax, whereas if it is mahogany then
it is most likely to have been a shellac finish(French polish).

In order to polish small fiddly areas, the thinned shellac should be applied
very sparingly with a mop (a very dense yet soft brush specially made for
this purpose), taking care not to leave puddles or runs. Practice on
something which does not matter. When enough layers have been built up, the
shellac should be allowed to harden for several days then gently cut back
with 0000 wire wool too remove the "toffee apple" looking finish and finally
polished with a good quality wax to give that nice warm lustre seen on
quality pieces.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Greetings all!
  I have a tall case clock that was stripped by someone (unfortunately) but never
refinished (fortunately).  I've had quite a lot of experience refinishing but I
have never tried to replicate an 'historic' finish like it would have had
originally, but I assume it would have been french polished (anyone please
correct me if I am wrong in that supposition).
Thats not so much of an ordeal on the flat surfaces but there are simple turned
spindles and the bonnet has a 'broken rams head pediment" with a lot of small
areas to get into. If the whole idea of a french polish is to lay down many very
thin layers of shellac, how do I do that on the detailed parts without causing
large puddles and drips?

Once again, if anyone has any accurate historical information on how it would
(probably) have been done originally, I'd love to know and I'll consider that
instead. Maybe it was easier than  a french polish! :-)

--- On Mon, 11/2/09, Tom <oldeagle7@...> wrote:


From: Tom <oldeagle7@...>
Subject: Re: [Antique Restoration] Table Restoration
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, November 2, 2009, 12:39 AM


 



From your description I assume what you're talking about is the top has
seperated at a glue seam. Some of these are butt glued and some are  a small
version of tongue and groove. In either case you need to try and work a piece of
sandpaper into the groove and clean out any old dried glue the blow air into the
 seam to get out any remaining debris.  Work plain old fashioined carpenters
glue into the seam then cmap closed (I'd use pipe clamps because they will
provide you with much more closing force than any of the modern "quick clamps"
posibly can and you'll usually need lots of force to close a crack in this
location.
 
Things to watch out for:
 
one the pressure you'll need to apply may create a new split at another joint.
But they can be handled all at the same time using the same snad out crack,
clean debris and work in new glue 
 
Second,you must alternate clamps to either side of the top (one on top the next
underneath) or you'll warp the top when you try and clamp the split closed
sometimes I clamp two planks to the top (one on either side) to hold flatness as
I clamp the split closed.
 
If the crack is not on a glue seam then wood movement has caused a grain split
and even if you get it to close satisfactorily there are stronger forces at work
here and before too long you will have another split somewhere near the original
split.  If this is the case you might try cutting some shallow kerfs in the
underside ot the top (no more than 1/2 way thru) to try and aleviate some of
this pressure and work glue into the split same as above and pray.
 
In all cases do your repairs first then refinish as the refinsihing process will
help blend even the most drastic of repairs into the final project
 
post some pictures and maybe I can offer some more specific help but the above
covers 90% of what I've seen
 
Tom R
For Small Creatures Such As We, The Vastness Is Only Bearable Through Love -
Carl Sagan

--- On Sun, 11/1/09, lieroylal <lieroylal@yahoo. com> wrote:

From: lieroylal <lieroylal@yahoo. com>
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Table Restoration
To: AntiqueRestoration@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2009, 11:51 AM

 

On the table top I want to restore the wood has dried out at the seam and come
apart across the entire top. The space is about 1/4 inch. I could use some
advice on how to fix this. Do I strip it first or fix the seam?
Thanks,
Lauren

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have painted and/or repainted several old - not antique- pieces of furniture
using oil based primers and finish coats.

Has anyone had experience using water based (latex) paints? I like the hardness,
durability and color depth of oil but am wondering if a similar result is
possible with latex. Currently, I am using Sherwin Williams oil paints since
their color chips are very accurate to the actual paints.

Thanks,
Bill Giblin

On the table top I want to restore the wood has dried out at the seam and come
apart across the entire top. The space is about 1/4 inch.  I could use some
advice on how to fix this. Do I strip it first or fix the seam?
> Thanks,
> Lauren


  Hi Lauren,

  The wood has dried out and a seam has come apart across the width?
Shrinkage or a bad glue joint, it sounds like shrinkage. If it a solid
wood top and the seam is straight, best to clean the joint and reglue
before any stripping. Stripping will contaminate the joint, dirt and
residue will make gluing difficult unless the surface is totally clean
and free from any residual glue, foreign (or domestic) material (not to offend
any other nationals).

  Solid wood shrinks with temperature, dryness, age, heat. If it is in
relatively stable environment and has been for 45-60 days (meaning it
has not just come out of a damp basement, or a dry barn, or attic) it
is ready to reglue.

  Depending on skirting, you'll want to remove screws or remove that
top section from the skirting or base, possibly to make clamping much
easier (it really depends on the table and the seam) Skirt screws at
times if not removed, won't allow the seam to go together- and at
some points wood loss due to shrinkage must be replaced- whether it
be a 1/4" wide piece or more- depending on width of boards and number
of boards used- along the width some boards will shrink 1/8" each,
multiply that 6 or 8 boards and you get the idea- it all adds up. If
only one seam, and it hasn't had prior attempts at gluing (means you
are much better off!) just cleaning with fine 220 paper and then a
damp rag (reactivates hide glue) and reglue the seam with liquid hide
glue- out of the bottle, or out of your glue pot. Clamp and make sure
edges are even and top seams match up and are even. Small flat blocks
on the edges with C clamps help it from slipping.

  IF you've got a solid wood edged harvest table, or something with
inset flush veneered panels and you've got shrinkage from the solid
wood, it's a tricker job to deal with shrinkage- joints being affected
and the proper repair on something of that nature is a little more
extensive than can be explained in a forum such as this.

Hope that helps!
-Matthew

From your description I assume what you're talking about is the top has
seperated at a glue seam. Some of these are butt glued and some are  a small
version of tongue and groove. In either case you need to try and work a piece of
sandpaper into the groove and clean out any old dried glue the blow air into the
 seam to get out any remaining debris.  Work plain old fashioined carpenters
glue into the seam then cmap closed (I'd use pipe clamps because they will
provide you with much more closing force than any of the modern "quick clamps"
posibly can and you'll usually need lots of force to close a crack in this
location.
 
Things to watch out for:
 
one the pressure you'll need to apply may create a new split at another joint.
But they can be handled all at the same time using the same snad out crack,
clean debris and work in new glue 
 
Second,you must alternate clamps to either side of the top (one on top the next
underneath) or you'll warp the top when you try and clamp the split closed
sometimes I clamp two planks to the top (one on either side) to hold flatness as
I clamp the split closed.
 
If the crack is not on a glue seam then wood movement has caused a grain split
and even if you get it to close satisfactorily there are stronger forces at work
here and before too long you will have another split somewhere near the original
split.  If this is the case you might try cutting some shallow kerfs in the
underside ot the top (no more than 1/2 way thru) to try and aleviate some of
this pressure and work glue into the split same as above and pray.
 
In all cases do your repairs first then refinish as the refinsihing process will
help blend even the most drastic of repairs into the final project
 
post some pictures and maybe I can offer some more specific help but the above
covers 90% of what I've seen
 
Tom R
For Small Creatures Such As We, The Vastness Is Only Bearable Through Love -
Carl Sagan

--- On Sun, 11/1/09, lieroylal <lieroylal@...> wrote:


From: lieroylal <lieroylal@...>
Subject: [Antique Restoration] Table Restoration
To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
Date: Sunday, November 1, 2009, 11:51 AM


 



On the table top I want to restore the wood has dried out at the seam and come
apart across the entire top. The space is about 1/4 inch. I could use some
advice on how to fix this. Do I strip it first or fix the seam?
Thanks,
Lauren



















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On the table top I want to restore the wood has dried out at the seam and come
apart across the entire top. The space is about 1/4 inch.  I could use some
advice on how to fix this. Do I strip it first or fix the seam?
Thanks,
Lauren

I will post pictures tomorrow morning I need to
Take some and find the one that has a finished one
In it
--- In AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com, maceydesign <no_reply@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks for joining! I don't think that is 'too much' to ask. I am now
> wondering if the answer is going to be 'too much'!
>
> I read you that it is a gator finish on tin. I would much like to see
> a photo of the finish up close and personal. It sounds to me like a
> faux finish, i.e. a finish that not only finish (protective, beautiful)
> but is a faux (artifical, eye-tricking, mimic).
>
> I don't the exact origin of the 'faux-finish', but cave people painted
> scenes on walls of their caves and anything that surrounded them. Maybe
> at some point someone wanted to change something, or make their bare
> rock walls look like wood. Maybe they had the idea that by rubbing thin
> mud- it would adhere, as well as anything else. Pack in some dry grass,
> maybe some sand.
>
> In furniture, I believe any surface that was unpleasing to the eye
> whether it be distressed, a knot hole, or irregular or mismatched wood-
> would be filled, painted out, stained differently, artificially grained,
> or some sort of disguise to 'have the appearance of something else.'
> Faux is a true art, derived from decorative painting and the many
> avenues of its art. Hand painted furniture as decoration, to the very
> exquisite 'artificial burls' done with layering, glazing, and effects
> derived in the application processes.
>
> A gator skinned type finish is a faux, layered and applied with
> varying methods to achieve the right thickness to give depth, base
> color and texture, layered colors and glaze, and topcoats. Would
> really like to see a photo and I can tell you the methods.
>
> Thanks,
> Matthew Macey
>

Thanks for joining! I don't think that is 'too much' to ask. I am now
wondering if the answer is going to be 'too much'!

I read you that it is a gator finish on tin. I would much like to see
a photo of the finish up close and personal. It sounds to me like a
faux finish, i.e. a finish that not only finish (protective, beautiful)
but is a faux (artifical, eye-tricking, mimic).

I don't the exact origin of the 'faux-finish', but cave people painted
scenes on walls of their caves and anything that surrounded them. Maybe
at some point someone wanted to change something, or make their bare
rock walls look like wood. Maybe they had the idea that by rubbing thin
mud- it would adhere, as well as anything else. Pack in some dry grass,
maybe some sand.

In furniture, I believe any surface that was unpleasing to the eye
whether it be distressed, a knot hole, or irregular or mismatched wood-
would be filled, painted out, stained differently, artificially grained,
or some sort of disguise to 'have the appearance of something else.'
Faux is a true art, derived from decorative painting and the many
avenues of its art. Hand painted furniture as decoration, to the very
exquisite 'artificial burls' done with layering, glazing, and effects
derived in the application processes.

A gator skinned type finish is a faux, layered and applied with
varying methods to achieve the right thickness to give depth, base
color and texture, layered colors and glaze, and topcoats. Would
really like to see a photo and I can tell you the methods.

Thanks,
Matthew Macey

Hello this is my first post and I hope its not to much
For a first post I'm restoring a Martin Maier Saratoga trunk
And it is finished with a gator finish on stamped tim the tin is
In great shape but the paint not so much I'm looking for any info
On how to do a gator finish
Thankyou for your time

I had the same problem some years back. For smaller wheels I've used
'replacement' sewing machine belts that were hollow and pliable.
For larger than 14" I've used vacuum tubing from the local auto parts,
with a small metal tube connector to connect the ends from inside (and use
rubber cement to make the bond) and set 2 very small brads through
to prevent it from rolling off.

Good luck on your search!
Matthew

I am in the process of refinnishing an antique Gibbard Tea Cart. Now the problem
is finding the rubber that goes around the wheel. The whole cart is walnut
including the wheels. There is a groove in the wheel that the rubber sits into.
Now I have searched and can only find 14 inch wheels. My wheels are 15 1/2
inches. I have tried Lee Valley and they do not carry just the rubber. If anyone
knows where I can purchase this piece of rubber or order it can you kindly let
me know. Thanks """ROB"""

i recently found this in the garbage.  one of the chair legs was in desperate
need of repair, n the hardware needed to b replaced.  im doin it in a colored
stain 4 my son, who plays football.  his team colors r blue n gold, which is the
theme ill b using.

ty, after i thought about it i figured they'd b able to custom mix it n sure
enough i found min wax products that did jus that!   i purchased the stain jus
have to do a lil more sanding n ill b ready to try.  im kinda eager to!  thanx
again 4 ure input.God bless,Bryan

To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
From: oldeagle7@...
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 13:56:39 -0700
Subject: RE: [Antique Restoration] is color w/o paint possible?





















                   Just a note regarding this thread and to warn you of your
curiosity.  YES you can cut paint far enough to "tint" wood...almost any paint
will thin down but almost all of them will weaken the color so far as to give at
best pastel shades (and also of dubious colorfastness's over time). Universal
colorant, available at most paint stores can be mixed with a variety of mediums
to do the same thing  with better results.  Also tube artist colorants will do
this to some degree but again color fastness can be an issue. With Minwax
Company already making such a wide variety of colors available in stains (you
can intermix them to Get almost any color you can imagine) why waste time an
money on thinning paints...unless you really want to have them as samples to
show someone.



Just my 2 cents worth



Tom



TWR



For Small Creatures Such As We, The Vastness Is Only Bearable Through Love -
Carl Sagan



--- On Sun, 9/6/09, Bryan Nielsen <bryannielsen@...> wrote:



> From: Bryan Nielsen <bryannielsen@...>

> Subject: RE: [Antique Restoration] is color w/o paint possible?

> To: antiquerestoration@yahoogroups.com

> Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 9:45 PM

>

> thanx, i found some custom min-wax stuff that i anticipate

> gr8 success wit.  jus wondered if a paint cud be way

> over-cut n used in same respect.  ill have to try a

> piece of scrap 2 satisfy my curiosity.  in theory

> should b all good, but i wont b happy till i know 4

> sure!thanx n God bless

>

> To: antiquerestoration@yahoogroups.com

> From: rturkington@...

> Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 16:06:28 -0400

> Subject: RE: [Antique Restoration] is color w/o paint

> possible?

>

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> Hello. Min-Wax has a blue stain(I think it's called Pacific

> Blue) that leaves the grain of the wood showing thru

> beautifully. Not sure what all other colors they have, but I

> used the blue stain on a corner curio and was very pleased.

> Hope that helps, and good luck!

>

>

>

> ________________________________

>

> > To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com

>

> > From: bryannielsen@...

>

> > Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 16:34:13 +0000

>

> > Subject: [Antique Restoration] is color w/o paint

> possible?

>

> >

>

> >

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> > does anyone know if colored stain can be made/bought?

> in theory im thinkin i should be able 2 just use a lil oil

> base paint mixed with paint thinner in order 2 obtain color,

> tet not lose the beauty n character of the wood. in

> particular, im re-storing an antique roll top child's desk n

> chair that i rescued from the garbage. chair leg was broken

> upon receipt. disassembled n sanded all approaching finish n

> re-assembly. my son plays football and i really wanna try

> his team colors n maybe the mascot logo. invested only time,

> glue n sandpaper n new hardware n paint for steel on chair

> but see showcase potential. invite any advice, will have

> photos to post shortly.

>

> >

>

> > thanx

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> __________________________________________________________

> Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what

> you’re up to on Facebook.

>
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:\
en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

> ------------------------------------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>     mailto:AntiqueRestoration-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com

>

>

>






















_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what you’re up to on
Facebook.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Just a note regarding this thread and to warn you of your curiosity.  YES you
can cut paint far enough to "tint" wood...almost any paint will thin down but
almost all of them will weaken the color so far as to give at best pastel shades
(and also of dubious colorfastness's over time). Universal colorant, available
at most paint stores can be mixed with a variety of mediums to do the same thing
with better results.  Also tube artist colorants will do this to some degree but
again color fastness can be an issue. With Minwax Company already making such a
wide variety of colors available in stains (you can intermix them to Get almost
any color you can imagine) why waste time an money on thinning paints...unless
you really want to have them as samples to show someone.

Just my 2 cents worth

Tom

TWR

For Small Creatures Such As We, The Vastness Is Only Bearable Through Love -
Carl Sagan


--- On Sun, 9/6/09, Bryan Nielsen <bryannielsen@...> wrote:

> From: Bryan Nielsen <bryannielsen@...>
> Subject: RE: [Antique Restoration] is color w/o paint possible?
> To: antiquerestoration@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Sunday, September 6, 2009, 9:45 PM
>
> thanx, i found some custom min-wax stuff that i anticipate
> gr8 success wit.  jus wondered if a paint cud be way
> over-cut n used in same respect.  ill have to try a
> piece of scrap 2 satisfy my curiosity.  in theory
> should b all good, but i wont b happy till i know 4
> sure!thanx n God bless
>
> To: antiquerestoration@yahoogroups.com
> From: rturkington@...
> Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 16:06:28 -0400
> Subject: RE: [Antique Restoration] is color w/o paint
> possible?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>    
>                
>  
>
> Hello. Min-Wax has a blue stain(I think it's called Pacific
> Blue) that leaves the grain of the wood showing thru
> beautifully. Not sure what all other colors they have, but I
> used the blue stain on a corner curio and was very pleased.
> Hope that helps, and good luck!
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> > To: AntiqueRestoration@yahoogroups.com
>
> > From: bryannielsen@...
>
> > Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2009 16:34:13 +0000
>
> > Subject: [Antique Restoration] is color w/o paint
> possible?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
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> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > does anyone know if colored stain can be made/bought?
> in theory im thinkin i should be able 2 just use a lil oil
> base paint mixed with paint thinner in order 2 obtain color,
> tet not lose the beauty n character of the wood. in
> particular, im re-storing an antique roll top child's desk n
> chair that i rescued from the garbage. chair leg was broken
> upon receipt. disassembled n sanded all approaching finish n
> re-assembly. my son plays football and i really wanna try
> his team colors n maybe the mascot logo. invested only time,
> glue n sandpaper n new hardware n paint for steel on chair
> but see showcase potential. invite any advice, will have
> photos to post shortly.
>
> >
>
> > thanx
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
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>
>      
>
>    
>    
>    
>    
>    
>    
>
>
>    
>
>
>    
>    
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what
> you’re up to on Facebook.
>
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:\
en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>     mailto:AntiqueRestoration-fullfeatured@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>