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#4826 From: t2000kwt
Date: Fri Jan 1, 2010 6:25 pm
Subject: Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
t2000kwt
Offline Offline
 
Another approach you might try first is to do a partial mash, using some extract
to make the mash more manageable.

http://www.homebrewhq.com/Beer/PartialMash.aspx

other sites with information can be found by searching for "partial mash" on
Google, Bing, etc.

Clone Brews has recipes for all extract, partial mash, and all grain for each
clone brew, if I remember correctly.

Don

#4825 From: lowfredflyer
Date: Fri Jan 1, 2010 3:02 pm
Subject: Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
lowfredflyer
Offline Offline
 
I am now set up for a very basic RIMS system but I also started with extract,
then partial-extract where most of my fermentables came from a batch-sparged,
infusion mash.  My mash tun was a 5-gallon round Igloo cooler with a false
bottom that I converted using some kit parts from a Homebrew Store.

If you have not seen it, check out this link http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/

Denny Conn makes it really simple.

Also take a look thru the Brewing Network archives for the podcasts that
reference all-grain brewing and getting started.  Finally, I happen to like some
other forums in addition to this one including The Brewing Network Forum,
MoreBeer, Northern Brewer, and Homebrewtalk...

Good luck and Hoppy New Year!

#4824 From: t2000kwt
Date: Fri Jan 1, 2010 3:10 am
Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
t2000kwt
Offline Offline
 
--- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, greenspider <wetstonze@...> wrote:
>
>
> I'm not a gadget freak but I do have physical impairments that limit my
abilities.

Considering that you deal with some impairments or disabilities, you might find
the BIAB (brew in a bag) process used by some Australians to be a useful way to
do a mash.

You can use pulleys or motors to winch the heavy grain bag out of the mash
vessel, which becomes your boiling vessel, I believe.

http://www.beersmith.com/blog/2009/04/14/brew-in-a-bag-biab-all-grain-beer-brewi\
ng/

and do a search for biab brewing on Google.

They also have a "no chill" method that doesn't require chilling equipment,
though you may have to do some adjustment in your hopping rate:

http://www.brewersfriend.com/2009/06/06/australian-no-chill-brewing-technique-te\
sted/

(search for no chill brewing on Google)


I just thought I'd mention these techniques since, depending you your physical
limitations, they might work out well for you. Or not.

As for using electric heating elements like you mentioned that you have, you
might be able to use high wattage commercial light dimmers to control them
manually, or build an electronic control using triacs. You don't need automatic
control unless you really want to bother with that.

#4823 From: greenspider <wetstonze@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 11:30 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
wetstonze
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I'm not a gadget freak but I do have physical impairments that limit my abilities.
The systems look like they automate much, if not most, of the process.
I am a bit of a macguyver in that I can build from scrounge most anything I need, not having barely any money to invest.
My thought is that I can use the burner and gas valve from an old water heater I have (I'm going to make a batch solar heater with the tank).
I also have access to 3 water heater elements (120v) that are almost new.
Would these items be usable for this?
I have several kegs to convert, and of course I can get coolers if they would be integral to making this work for my needs.
I would have to buy a new pump if I planned to move the wort by that means.
So I'm looking for the best thing I can build, with what I have on hand, that will allow me to lift and bend as little as possible.


#4822 From: "Denis Barsalo" <dbarsalo@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 11:12 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
denisbarsalo
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Ditto...
 
I started with a single pot, a couple of buckets, etc. doing infusion mashing. Continued like this for several years.
 
When time came to build a brewery out of reclaimed kegs, I built an HLT with a coil inside. I have actually used it on and off and in fact, when I brew 5G batches, I don't bother using the herms at all. I just use hot water and infuse to get to mash out temps.
 
The only time I do use it is when I want to mash out a 10G batch since I don't have enough room to add as much water as would be necessary to infuse it up to mash out temps.
 
Denis


From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave Witt
Sent: December-31-09 5:36 PM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: RIMS or HERMS or?

I second this article.  I had read about all-grain in Charlie Papazian’s book, but Listermann’s really turned on some lights.  There is no reason to start with a “system”, like RIMS or HERMS.  I started simple and after two simple systems, I built a manual HERMS.  I used that for 3-4 yrs before abandoning it for simple infusion mashes.  I will occasionally do a step mash or decoction, but it is much simpler to just single infuse.  The HLT has since had the coil removed and an electric element installed. 

 

Dave

 

 

 

 On Behalf Of t2000kwt>

--- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, "wetstonze" <wetstonze@...> wrote:
>
> I just get overwhelmed reading about the different systems and can't decide which would be best for me.

Why not do as another member here suggested--start with a simple infusion mash?

Here's the article that got me started:

http://www.listermann.com/Store/WannaMash.asp

while the article mentions 30-45 minutes for starch conversion to take place, give it about 90 minutes to be safe, and you don't need to do the iodine test. It's just interesting to see that the starch has been converted with the test. If you do use iodine just to see how the process went, make sure you take out only a liquid sample. Grain particles in your sample may turn black even after all of the starch in solution has converted to sugars.

After doing single infusion mashes, you can do multi-step infusion mashes, decoction mashes, and you can experiment with different types of sparging methods if you wish also.

Then, when you've got a handle on the process, go ahead and build (or buy) your RIMS or HERMS setup.

Don


#4821 From: "Dave Witt" <hammr5000@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:35 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
davewsaaz42
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I second this article.  I had read about all-grain in Charlie Papazian’s book, but Listermann’s really turned on some lights.  There is no reason to start with a “system”, like RIMS or HERMS.  I started simple and after two simple systems, I built a manual HERMS.  I used that for 3-4 yrs before abandoning it for simple infusion mashes.  I will occasionally do a step mash or decoction, but it is much simpler to just single infuse.  The HLT has since had the coil removed and an electric element installed. 

 

Dave

 

 

 

 On Behalf Of t2000kwt>

--- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, "wetstonze" <wetstonze@...> wrote:
>
> I just get overwhelmed reading about the different systems and can't decide which would be best for me.

Why not do as another member here suggested--start with a simple infusion mash?

Here's the article that got me started:

http://www.listermann.com/Store/WannaMash.asp

while the article mentions 30-45 minutes for starch conversion to take place, give it about 90 minutes to be safe, and you don't need to do the iodine test. It's just interesting to see that the starch has been converted with the test. If you do use iodine just to see how the process went, make sure you take out only a liquid sample. Grain particles in your sample may turn black even after all of the starch in solution has converted to sugars.

After doing single infusion mashes, you can do multi-step infusion mashes, decoction mashes, and you can experiment with different types of sparging methods if you wish also.

Then, when you've got a handle on the process, go ahead and build (or buy) your RIMS or HERMS setup.

Don


#4820 From: t2000kwt
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:38 pm
Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
t2000kwt
Offline Offline
 
WARNING: Long post

--- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, greenspider <wetstonze@...> wrote:

> http://www.listerma nn.com/Store/ WannaMash. asp

> Thanks, I'm reading the site as I type.
>

The setup I started with is at the Listermann store, but you can make your own
setup much cheaper.

I began with the Listermann rotating sparge arm, their mash tun with false
bottom, which is also used as the lauter tun, the other 5 gal bucket that came
with the set for the sparge water. I used the kitchen stove to heat my water and
do the full boil, using multiple pots to get me to about 6 gallons or so
capacity. If you do this, DON'T do it on top of a smooth top stove or you may
ruin the top. Something about sugars etching the ceramic top or something. I had
a gas stove at the time, so I just cleaned up the mess from small boilovers. :-)

Another thing, if you use your kitchen stove, especially with a high gravity
brew like a Russian imperial stout, expect to have to wait for some of the wort
to boil down before you add more of your unboiled wort since you won't likely
have the capacity to boil 6 or 7 gallons all at once. And make sure no one will
need to use the stove for cooking, or for that matter, the kitchen for anything.

I graduated to using a Rubbermaid picnic cooler (Igloos are fine, as are some
others) for my mash tun. I still use the Listermann lauter tun with the false
bottom, and the sparge arm. I transfer the mash to the lauter tun. It's a bit
messy, so I plan to build a slotted manifold out of PVC pipe and put it on the
bottom of the picnic cooler to avoid the need to transfer the mash to another
container. But my setup works well. You don't need a rotating sparge arm, though
I can set the flow just right and walk away for 5  minutes or more. You can use
a watering can (not galvanized) instead and save some money to rinse your
grains. This way you don't need to have another container of hot water above the
level of the grain bed with additional tubing and a flow control of some sort in
between.

You will want some sort of a mash paddle. I bought something suitable at a
restaurant supply store for about $5 or $6, made out of a hard wood. You can
make your own or buy one, but if you can find one in a restaurant supply store,
it's probably worth getting.  I bought mine at Smith's restaurant supply in
Syracuse, NY, while visiting family there. It's not in their online catalog,
though. They also sell some homebrewing supplies there. (They opened another
store in Watertown, NY, also.) Mine looks like the long one pictured in this
ebay auction:

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360175756706&rvr_id=&crlp=1_\
263602_263622&UA=%3F*F%3F&GUID=6dccada31250a02681222232ffb8a806&itemid=360175756\
706&ff4=263602_263622>

or type in the auction # in ebay search and see it that way if the link above is
broken: 360175756706

That one will cost you about $23 even with the free shipping. I paid a lot less
for mine and it looks like the one I got. If you take a picture with you of that
one to a restaurant supply store they will probably have the same thing for a
lot less money. There are plastic ones, too. Here's a site that explains hot to
make one version of a paddle, and it has pictures of plastic ones available,
too, already made:

http://www.homebrew.com/articles/article08300201.shtml

I now do my boil outside with an outdoor burner. I recommend a ring  burner
instead of the jet type, but either will work. The jet type is cheaper and often
part of a turkey cooker outfit, which comes with its own large pot. I bought a
used heavy (thick) Polarware 10 gallon stainless steel pot with lid. You want a
lid of some sort, and if your setup doesn't have one, you can fashion one out of
a pizza pan and something to use as a handle, perhaps a wooden thread spool with
a bolt through it and the pan. The large pot allows me to boil up to 7 or so
gallons with a safety margin for boil overs.

Don't worry about the aluminum vs. stainless issue. The link between aluminum
and Alzheimer's has been disproven, and aluminum won't affect the taste of your
beer. It does had disadvantages, though. It bends more easily and requires a bit
more care, but if you clean it well, you probably won't end up with a pitted
pot. (I don't like aluminum for cooking, though, for that reason--certain foods
seem to corrode the metal and eventually you need to toss the pan and buy
another one.)

You'll want a good thermometer, one with a long probe to get into the middle of
the mash. (You may want to avoid glass for obvious reasons, though they will
work as long as you don't break them and ruin your mash or brew.) Digital is
fine but a dial type will work also. If you buy one, check all of them in the
store and see what the average reading is (they will often vary a bit). Get one
in the middle of the readings (ignore any obvious "outliers" that deviate a lot
from the batch) and you will probably be within 1 degree of being accurate
(close enough).

You can buy your grains pre-crushed, but if you're ordering by mail, make sure
they'll do that for you unless you already have a grain crusher. For a grain
crusher, don't even bother trying to use a rolling pin. I did that--once--and
I'll never repeat that messy operation. If you know for sure you will want a
crusher, get a good one like the Schmidling malt mill, one of Listermann's
mills, a used Valley mill (they no longer make them but they might be the best
ever made, and I love mine), a Crankenstein mill, or any of several others
available.

Even a used Corona grain mill can do an acceptable job. I used one for years
with great success. It takes some fiddling to get the correct spacing between
the plates since it was designed to make flour, not crack grains open without
making flour, but it will work, is much cheaper, can be motorized with a drill
and a cut-off bolt in place of using the handle, and works just fine.

Just get your grains pre-crushed for now and see if you want to make that jump.
Crushing your own grains allows you to store the grains for a while without
losing the freshness. Crushed grains should be used within a few weeks, assuming
that they are stored in a plastic bag or container. You also can take advantage
of the savings of buying your grains in bulk and crushing them as needed.

These are just my thoughts that might be useful to someone about to make the
transition to all grain brewing. Don't turn your nose up at extract brewing,
though. You can make most styles of beers with extracts and specialty grains,
and it's a good way to save a few hours of your brew day. All grain brewing
takes longer, but you have more control over the process since you're making
your own extract.

Don

#4819 From: greenspider <wetstonze@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:45 pm
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
wetstonze
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 


--- On Thu, 12/31/09, t2000kwt <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
......Here's the article that got me started:

http://www.listerma nn.com/Store/ WannaMash. asp


                        Thanks, I'm reading the site as I type.



#4818 From: greenspider <wetstonze@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:36 pm
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] RIMS
wetstonze
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Thanks Jeff.

I am still somewhat unclear as to the individual steps that each process does, and when, on these systems.
Obviously I have to familiarize myself with all of the technical terms and I'm hoping some of you guys will help.

****If someone would be generous enough to respond to this post by inserting into the text the proper term(s) I would be grateful. 8) ***

I started working on the gas stove but that was a pain for me as that made my wife unhappy, plus all the mess I actually cleaned up before her, so I have been doing this lately in an electric roaster oven (3.5gal. capacity) in the basement.

-My process is to steep the specialties for 90mins (in the roaster this takes 30+ mins to get it to 150, THEN I steep for 90. After the steep it takes another 45 mins to get this to boil. THIS is why I am building a rig, SOON).

-I pull the grain bag from the liquor(?)

-I add my extract

-I turn the temp up for my boil

-I rinse my grains in another bucket then put that back into the boil

-I transfer to primary

-Insert my chiller, pitch yeast when ready.....

I see that alot of these steps can be eliminated by these rigs as the chiller is built into the keggle and sparging is done easier since it too is built into the process and much of it can be done with a pump. Talk about simplifying the process, WHEW!
I just need to learn a little more about the whole thing.




--- On Wed, 12/30/09, Jeff Himes <jrh_942@...> wrote:

From: Jeff Himes <jrh_942@...>
Subject: [BrewEquip] RIMS
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 2009, 11:18 PM

 

I built a Herms system because I've heard too many stories about scored mashes and the problems with controlling temperatures with heater elements. With the heat exchange I can control the temperature my wort enters the tun. The Herms system also allows me to use the heat exchange water to sparge my wort without heating a secondary water source to sparging temperatures. Although both systems work for brewers my preference is the Herms. It's all in how much effort you want to put into brewing. I set my heat exchange to the temperature I want to maintain. If I want to use a 3 or 4 step temp mash I can do this without any effort. I use natural gas to heat the system. The process has been proven many times. Good luck with what ever you choose.
Jeff  



#4817 From: t2000kwt
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 2:51 pm
Subject: Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
t2000kwt
Offline Offline
 
--- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, "wetstonze" <wetstonze@...> wrote:
>
> I just get overwhelmed reading about the different systems and can't decide
which would be best for me.

Why not do as another member here suggested--start with a simple infusion mash?

Here's the article that got me started:

http://www.listermann.com/Store/WannaMash.asp

while the article mentions 30-45 minutes for starch conversion to take place,
give it about 90 minutes to be safe, and you don't need to do the iodine test.
It's just interesting to see that the starch has been converted with the test.
If you do use iodine just to see how the process went, make sure you take out
only a liquid sample. Grain particles in your sample may turn black even after
all of the starch in solution has converted to sugars.

After doing single infusion mashes, you can do multi-step infusion mashes,
decoction mashes, and you can experiment with different types of sparging
methods if you wish also.

Then, when you've got a handle on the process, go ahead and build (or buy) your
RIMS or HERMS setup.

Don

#4816 From: Jeff Himes <jrh_942@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:18 am
Subject: RIMS
jrh_942
Online Now Online Now
Send Email Send Email
 
I built a Herms system because I've heard too many stories about scored mashes and the problems with controlling temperatures with heater elements. With the heat exchange I can control the temperature my wort enters the tun. The Herms system also allows me to use the heat exchange water to sparge my wort without heating a secondary water source to sparging temperatures. Although both systems work for brewers my preference is the Herms. It's all in how much effort you want to put into brewing. I set my heat exchange to the temperature I want to maintain. If I want to use a 3 or 4 step temp mash I can do this without any effort. I use natural gas to heat the system. The process has been proven many times. Good luck with what ever you choose.
Jeff  


#4815 From: "Bob" <Brewing@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:50 am
Subject: Re: RIMS or HERMS or?
bob7982
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
You shouldn't rule out good old infusion mash.  It's by far the easiest, most common, and most cost effective method to get started in all grain brewing.  I'd highly recommend this process first then after you become fully competent at it consider moving on to RIMS or HERMS.  Both RIMS and HERMS are considerably more expensive than infusion, and both come with their own issues and benefits.  If you haven't yet check out John Palmer's online version of his book How To Brew at howtobrew.com. Also I'm sure there are others here that can give you more sound advice as well.

BTW - I started my all grain brewing with an infusion mash system using a 50 qt Igloo Cube cooler for a MLT (mash lauter tun), and a couple keggles (Sanke kegs converted into pots) for a HLT (hot liquor tun) and a kettle.  I now have an all electric HERMS still using the keggle for a boil kettle.

Bob O.


#4814 From: "wetstonze" <wetstonze@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 4:04 am
Subject: JJ's brewery
wetstonze
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
The oxygen is a new one on me.
What's the story behind it?
How when is it used?

#4813 From: "wetstonze" <wetstonze@...>
Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:45 am
Subject: RIMS or HERMS or?
wetstonze
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
I just get overwhelmed reading about the different systems and can't decide
which would be best for me.
I brew extract with specialties, BUT I do want to be able to brew AG when I feel
competent enough.
Besides that little desire, what else will help me focus and choose the correct
system for me?
How do I make the decision?
How did you decide which system to build?

#4812 From: "LEE BAHR" <pulsarxp@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 8:07 pm
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
pulsarxp
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I just ordered a CO2 Kegerator kit and a N2 Beer Gas Kegerator kit from More Beer.  They are offering 10% off everything just today, so I took advantage of the sale.  The CO2 Kegerator Conversion kit is back ordered but that's OK with me as my chest freezer doesn't arrive until the middle of January.  (I purchased a new 14 cu ft GE chest freezer for the project.  I wanted to buy a black one but GE only makes white one.  I may have to spray paint my new freezer to get it black)
 
The set up will allow me to dispense two Sanke kegs of commercial beer, either using CO2 or N/CO2.  The set up will have three taps.  There will be enough room to hold some Cornelius kegs if I keep the Sanke down to one.  The freezer is 4 foot wide and I plan to put a wood ring around the top and secure the lid to it allowing safe drilling for taps and gas lines through the wood.  I am going to keep my gas tanks outside the kegerator.  Hoping to age some home brew in the chest freezer too.  When doing this, be prepaired to need a few different types of Sanke keg couplers if you plan to dispense more then one type of beer as there are numerous couplers needed depending on the beer served.  More Beer has these as well as the conversion kits.
 
I just built a large 35 foot by 16 foot covered deck on the back side of my lake house.  Plan to put my 20 neon sculpture signs out there as well as my Faby 2 Margarita Machine out there as well with the kegerator.  The kegerator could actually allow me to pour three types of beer if one type needed N/CO2  and one keg was not a Sanke keg.
 
Lee
Houston, TX
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 1:00 PM
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank

 

Beer gas gives you the "nitro pour" that you see with Guinness. It will be considerably more expensive to set up, and isn't necessary for all beers (and even undesirable for some). It's great for the right beer though. You'll need a stout tap at least, and more hose. You'll probably need a nitro tank and gauges too, although depending on where you live you might be able to just use CO2 equipment (my local gas distributor will fill CO2 tanks with bev gas).

Anyway, the way to reduce foaming is to increase the resistance in the system, with longer or smaller diameter hoses.

I'd recommend starting with a CO2 setup and then adding nitro capabilities later.

Tom


#4811 From: Tom Schmidlin <tschmidlin@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 7:00 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
tomschmidlin
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Beer gas gives you the "nitro pour" that you see with Guinness.  It will be
considerably more expensive to set up, and isn't necessary for all beers (and
even undesirable for some).  It's great for the right beer though.  You'll need
a stout tap at least, and more hose.  You'll probably need a nitro tank and
gauges too, although depending on where you live you might be able to just use
CO2 equipment (my local gas distributor will fill CO2 tanks with bev gas).

Anyway, the way to reduce foaming is to increase the resistance in the system,
with longer or smaller diameter hoses.

I'd recommend starting with a CO2 setup and then adding nitro capabilities
later.

Tom



-----Original Message-----
From: Derek Sherman
Sent: Dec 30, 2009 1:16 PM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank


I’m still gathering my bits and pieces for a kegging setup, and this caught my
attention. Does using a beer gas mix instead of straight CO2 for pushing beer to
a tap result in less foaming or overcarbonation?

The more I learn about this stuff, the more I realize that there’s so much
more that I still need to learn.


Derek

#4810 From: "Derek Sherman" <mondomage@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 6:16 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
mondomage
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I’m still gathering my bits and pieces for a kegging setup, and this caught my attention. Does using a beer gas mix instead of straight CO2 for pushing beer to a tap result in less foaming or overcarbonation?

 

The more I learn about this stuff, the more I realize that there’s so much more that I still need to learn.

 

 

Derek

 


From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 10:39 AM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank

 



Short answer about $20 for a 20lb cylinder ;)

Actually beer gas is a mix, as Tom said, of Nitrogen and CO2.  Usually 75%/25% or 70%/30% Nitrogen to CO2 respectively.  The mistake I made when I converted over to beer gas was thinking it could carbonate the beer as well as straight CO2.  Fact is it doesn't so I've now ordered a new CO2 cylinder and regulator, and will be splitting my kegerator with 4 beer gas lines for pushing beer and 4 CO2 lines for carbonating or pushing beer as needed.

Bob O.



#4809 From: "Bob" <Brewing@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 3:48 pm
Subject: Re: CO2 tank
bob7982
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Actually it is similar or at least close for the CO2 only.  $35 to $40 for beer gas was an extra bit of information.  Basically it was the orange in a comparison of apples. :D

Bob O.

--- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, "dlogcher" <dan@...> wrote:
>
> > Our prices are similar. I believe for CO2 it's $12 for 5lbs, $24 for
> > 20lbs, and $35-40 for 20lbs beer gas. All cylinder exchanges.
> >
> > Bob O.
>
> That's not that similar if 20lb are $35-40.. he said 20lb for less
> than $20.
>
> I get 20lb CO2 fills for $18 and swaps for $32. I think 5lb go for
> $16.
>
> --
> Dan
>

#4808 From: "Bob" <Brewing@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 3:38 pm
Subject: Re: CO2 tank
bob7982
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Short answer about $20 for a 20lb cylinder ;)

Actually beer gas is a mix, as Tom said, of Nitrogen and CO2.  Usually 75%/25% or 70%/30% Nitrogen to CO2 respectively.  The mistake I made when I converted over to beer gas was thinking it could carbonate the beer as well as straight CO2.  Fact is it doesn't so I've now ordered a new CO2 cylinder and regulator, and will be splitting my kegerator with 4 beer gas lines for pushing beer and 4 CO2 lines for carbonating or pushing beer as needed.

Bob O.


#4807 From: "dlogcher" <dan@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:07 pm
Subject: Re: CO2 tank
dlogcher
Online Now Online Now
Send Email Send Email
 
> Our prices are similar.  I believe for CO2 it's $12 for 5lbs, $24 for
> 20lbs, and $35-40 for 20lbs beer gas. All cylinder exchanges.
>
> Bob O.

That's not that similar if 20lb are $35-40..  he said 20lb for less
than $20.

I get 20lb CO2 fills for $18 and swaps for $32.  I think 5lb go for
$16.

--
Dan

#4806 From: "Tom" <thil@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 1:22 pm
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
tepe1
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The mix
Beer gas is a mix of CO2 and Nitrogen
Tom
        
          Home of the
MOON RIVER BREWERY
                 and
DELANCO VINEYARDS
----- Original Message -----
From: w
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 5:26 AM
Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank

What’s the difference between CO2 and beer gas?

 

Thanks

Warren

 


#4805 From: "w" <w.woody@...>
Date: Wed Dec 30, 2009 10:26 am
Subject: Re: CO2 tank
wcw6284
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What’s the difference between CO2 and beer gas?

 

Thanks

Warren

 


#4804 From: "Bob" <Brewing@...>
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 10:51 pm
Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
bob7982
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Our prices are similar.  I believe for CO2 it's $12 for 5lbs, $24 for
20lbs, and $35-40 for 20lbs beer gas. All cylinder exchanges.

Bob O.

--- In BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com, tschmidlin@... wrote:
>
> Wow, $29?!  More like $12 for us, even the 20 lb tanks are less than
$20.
>
> Tom
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Doug Rooney" drooney57@...
> Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 13:31:03
> To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
>
> Depending on what you have near you, we have a gas supplier that just
swaps
> out empty for full, for like $29.
>
>
> Thank You
>
> -Doug Rooney
>
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
> Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 12:30 PM
> To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
>
>
>
>
> It does sound like a 5 pound cylinder. When you take it in you may
also
> have to pay for a new hydro test depending on how old it is.
Relatively
> cheap when compared to how the cylinder cost you in the first place.
>
> Bob O.
>

#4803 From: tschmidlin@...
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 10:36 pm
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
tomschmidlin
Offline Offline
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Wow, $29?! More like $12 for us, even the 20 lb tanks are less than $20.

Tom


From: "Doug Rooney" <drooney57@...>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 13:31:03 -0800
To: <BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank

 

Depending on what you have near you, we have a gas supplier that just swaps out empty for full, for like $29.
 

Thank You

-Doug Rooney

 


From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 12:30 PM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank

 

It does sound like a 5 pound cylinder. When you take it in you may also
have to pay for a new hydro test depending on how old it is. Relatively
cheap when compared to how the cylinder cost you in the first place.

Bob O.


#4802 From: "Doug Rooney" <drooney57@...>
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 9:31 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank
drooney57
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
Depending on what you have near you, we have a gas supplier that just swaps out empty for full, for like $29.
 

Thank You

-Doug Rooney

 


From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 12:30 PM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BrewEquip] Re: CO2 tank

 

It does sound like a 5 pound cylinder. When you take it in you may also
have to pay for a new hydro test depending on how old it is. Relatively
cheap when compared to how the cylinder cost you in the first place.

Bob O.


#4801 From: "Bob" <Brewing@...>
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:29 pm
Subject: Re: CO2 tank
bob7982
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 
It does sound like a 5 pound cylinder.  When you take it in you may also
have to pay for a new hydro test depending on how old it is.  Relatively
cheap when compared to how the cylinder cost you in the first place.

Bob O.

#4800 From: Tom Schmidlin <tschmidlin@...>
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:20 pm
Subject: Re: [BrewEquip] CO2 tank
tomschmidlin
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Sounds like a 5lb tank.  There should be a tare weight on it, stamped near the
top.  Is it steel or aluminum?  Places in my area swap tanks, so I would just go
swap it out - that way you have a known quantity of gas and quality of tank.

Tom

#4799 From: "sharpstik" <bk2@...>
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 8:16 pm
Subject: CO2 tank
sharpstik
Offline Offline
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i finally found the old CO2 tank a friend gave me. how can i tell what capacity
it is? it is about 5" dia and 15" high to the threads.
  and more importantly, how can you tell if it's empty? it has no tare wt like on
a propane. it has some gas in it, but i can't tell how much.
bill keiser

#4798 From: "Denis Barsalo" <dbarsalo@...>
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 6:37 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Conical Fermenators
denisbarsalo
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I bought two of their first generation 12/14G fermenators. I couldn't be happier.
Still a good size for single batches (5G) and perfect for 10G batches.


From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Curtiss Clark
Sent: December-29-09 10:10 AM
To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Conical Fermenators

I agree.  I have a 14 gal Blichmann – it works great, is easy to clean – wish I had 2 of them!


#4797 From: "Curtiss Clark" <curtiss@...>
Date: Tue Dec 29, 2009 3:09 pm
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Conical Fermenators
crc0429
Offline Offline
Send Email Send Email
 

I agree.  I have a 14 gal Blichmann – it works great, is easy to clean – wish I had 2 of them!

 

From: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com [mailto:BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ben marks
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 8:51 AM
To: brewingequipment@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BrewEquip] Conical Fermenators

 

 

a 3 gal fermenter? way to small, i have a 7 gal conical and i wish i had got the 14 gal or they should have made it 8 gal, as it is close to being to small for doing a 5 gal batch for me some times i have had a lot of blow offand it has poped off the bubbler. in a 3 gal you would only be able to make 1 1/2 -2 gal of beer so for the cost even if you make it your self i just dont see you being happy with it for very long......Ben  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Some people are like slinkies- not good for anything, But it sure is fun to push them down the stairs


 


To: BrewingEquipment@yahoogroups.com
From: jeff@...
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 15:12:15 +0000
Subject: [BrewEquip] Conical Fermenators

 

Hi Group,

I am a complete newbie, I have always wanted to build a RIMS or HEARMS type brewing system, and will someday when finances allow. (Currently raising children). I plan to fully automate the process, I know some like it, some don't, but I am a Systems Integrator, which means you have to automate everything you can. I have learned a couple things about automating the brewing process, such as Do Not use a PID to control temp. PID's overshoot and undershoot the target temp, a little less each time until they hit the target temp. I have heard in brewing that the overshoot can ruin quality and it is better to write your own control code that gets it up to temp and keeps temp without any overshooting. If anyone has any other good programming tid bits I would like to hear them and I will file them away with all the brewing info I am collecting.
I was looking at the Stainless Steel hoppers on the Toledo Metal Spinning website thinking about conical fermenators. I plan on keeping the system small and would like to build some small 3 gallon fermenators, using the TMS9914 3 gal hoppers. I did some work on some food equipment years go and learned how to make food grade welds on stainless steel. I have a TIG welder so adding some Tri-Clover fittings to the hopper will be no problem.
So now I will get to my question, if I were to build a 3 gallon fermenator, how would I determine how high up to put the racking valve. (Is racking valve the proper terminology for the upper valve?) I have uploaded a drawing of the TMS9914 to the files section. Thanks, and I look forward to learning more about brewing as a member of this group.

 


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