I have an L118 ('04 Model) and here is my list of upgrades:

1. Fender Flares from the L120/L130 Installed
2. 12V Accessory Port from L120/L130
3. New Deck Spindles with Grease Fittings
4. Deck Wash port from the LA140 (not much testing yet)
5. OREGON Brand Gator Blades
6. Remote control fob on the key chain to open the garage door
7. SCC Brand Chain Tightners for the Tire Chains (winter use)
8. B&S Entended Life Spark Plugs (Platinum)
9. Yellow B&S Extended Life Oil Filter ($11 at Lowes)
10. Washable Air Filter (B&S Extended Life Series - Lowes)
11. Soon to be installed Ball Bearings instead of Sleves for front
wheels and the 10P Trailer Wheels
12. Use Valvoline 5W-30 Syntec Motor Oil (per B&S manual for my
Engine - helps with cold starts in the winter
13. Valvoline 10W-30 Syntec in the GearBox (Tuff Torq Specs)
14. Drilled second arm of the grass bagger for Hitch Pin Clip (see
pics area - keeps pin from popping out of the rear of the fender.
15. East-Penn Deka Battery with totally sealed design and increased
CCA and CA for much better starts, especially in the winter.
16. Green Valve Stem Caps from COSCO (they put them on your car if
you buy tires there to remind you that there is Nitrogen in your
tires - I took them off my car because they looked stupid, but the
look great on a Deere Yellow rim!)

Spokane Walt


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mikejdl120@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi All, it's been a bit slow here, summer and all, so I thought I
> ask a question of you innovative guys.
>
> I'm curious to know what have you done to upgrade your JD and which
> is your favorite upgrade.  This will be good help to our newer
> members and maybe share some great ideas for us all to take
> advantage of.  I'll start with 4 upgrades that come to mind that
> I've done on my L120 …
>
> This winter I installed ball bearings on the front wheels.  The
> wheels now feel much smoother and less wear on the spindles (seems
> to turn easier too).
>
> Installed grease fittings on the deck spindles, easy enough to do.
> I think it'll be helpful.
>
> Installed an air horn.  This has been real helpful when I'm trying
> to get someone's attention.  I used the RIO button to activate.
>
> Currently in the process of double springing the snow blade so it
> does not flip down so easily.
>
> Installed a quick connect/disconnect on my 10P cart.  Spring
> activated and makes hook ups real easy.  I think this is my
favorite
> upgrade as I use the trailer all the time.  It was very easy to do
> and took the idea from a Sear's lawn sweeper.
>
> So what your list of upgrades ?
>
> Mike
>

Does this really work?

I gotta admit, I certainly hit some good bumps with this tractor, but
in the last 2 lawn tractors I have had (2 craftsman type), which have
a cold rolled and welded steel front axle, I have never even imagined
I would break one of them.   My guess is that the cast iron is not a
very good quality of cast iron, and is more likely a mix of junk
metal.  And you are very correct, in the lack of ability to weld it.
I have welded good quality cast iron on large tractors with nickel
rods and or brazing rods quite successfully.  I may try to redo the
weld on this one to make it a spare, by brazing it with extra rolled
steel inserted into the i-beam area for more strength.

steve d
L130

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, Len Williams
<radamus210@...> wrote:
>
> Our shop has replaced more than expected of those front axles, but
almost all of them to my knowledge have been due to abnormally rough
use. For example, we had to drag one out of the peoples woods where
"sonny boy" was trail blazin and busted it climbing over dead trees.
Then there is the one that was pulling a trailer load of firewood
across a plowed field. Then there was the guy who hit a tree, bouned
off that into the side of his truck, blamed in on the cruise option!
>    The upside, is the fairly low price of a new one! and no, you
aint gonna weld it.
>
> "M.S. Dickerson" <msdickerson@...> wrote:
>           Hi all . I have been one of those that have had the toe out/in
> problem for a couple years now on my L130. Well last night trying to
> cut my lawn, the real problem surfaced. All of the sudden, the left
> front wheel fell off the tractor due to the axle snapping in half.
> Now I do not do any motocross jumps or whatnot, so that was quite
> unexpected, as JD claims to have "strong Frames" etc... Anyway - I
> disassembled the axle off the tractor, and noticed that it had been
> cracked for some time now, as the break portion was quite shiny, but
> the bottom of the break area, was well weathered. So it had been
> cracked for a long time. I knew I had a fat chance in hell of
> welding it (with my arc welder), but decided to try anyway. I got it
> welded back together, and low and behold, the toe out problem was
> gone!! But, as soon as I tried to use it again, the axle rebroke
> almost immediately (crappy cast iron and no nickel rods or MIG welder).
>
> So the moral of the story is this - if you have a toe in/out problem,
> inspect your axle - especially at the pivot point area for cracks. It
> could be slowly breaking like mine was.
>
> The only shocking thing was that the axle is not very expensive
> compared to the tranny parts. It runs for about 42$. I am waiting
> for my new front axle now, and will install it as soon as I get it
> next week.
>
> Disappointed again with JD
>
> Steve D
> L130 220hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
>

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "johnwholey"
<johnwholey@...> wrote:
>
> When last used (about 3 weeks ago) ran fine.   Can't start.  Tank Full
> but no fuel flows thru full line to carb.!  Any one solved this
problem?
> Thanks for info.
>
  Try taking off or loosening the fuel cap. JD seems to have a problem
with the cap vent plugging up. If it fuel flows after loosening remove
fuel cap carefully pry out the rubber seal inside and the baffle. Clean
all the parts reassemble and it should be good for a while. A nearby
dealer said there might be a replacement coming out.

I had similar problem, vent hole in cap was plugged.  All was fine
after clearing hole for a few days, then engine would just die from
lack of fuel.  Would start back up and run, maybe for all day, maybe
for a few feet.  My problem was a bad fuel pump.
To recap....verify no fuel in the fuel filter, remove fuel cap and see
if engine will run.  If it does check the cap, if not the pump [about
$35] is probably bad.

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Carl" <batty_54@...> wrote:
>
> --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "johnwholey"
> <johnwholey@> wrote:
> >
> > When last used (about 3 weeks ago) ran fine.   Can't start.  Tank Full
> > but no fuel flows thru full line to carb.!  Any one solved this
> problem?
> > Thanks for info.
> >
>  Try taking off or loosening the fuel cap. JD seems to have a problem
> with the cap vent plugging up. If it fuel flows after loosening remove
> fuel cap carefully pry out the rubber seal inside and the baffle. Clean
> all the parts reassemble and it should be good for a while. A nearby
> dealer said there might be a replacement coming out.
>

I had similar problem, vent hole in cap was plugged. All was fine
after clearing hole for a few days, then engine would just die from
lack of fuel. Would start back up and run, maybe for all day, maybe
for a few feet. My problem was a bad fuel pump.
To recap....verify no fuel in the fuel filter, remove fuel cap and see
if engine will run. If it does check the cap, if not the pump [about
$35] is probably bad.

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Carl" <batty_54@...> wrote:
>
> --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "johnwholey"
> <johnwholey@> wrote:
> >
> > When last used (about 3 weeks ago) ran fine. Can't start. Tank Full
> > but no fuel flows thru full line to carb.! Any one solved this
> problem?
> > Thanks for info.
> >
> Try taking off or loosening the fuel cap. JD seems to have a problem
> with the cap vent plugging up. If it fuel flows after loosening remove
> fuel cap carefully pry out the rubber seal inside and the baffle. Clean
> all the parts reassemble and it should be good for a while. A nearby
> dealer said there might be a replacement coming out.
>

Short answer: Nope
Long answer: Nope. Well, maybe. If you cut dry grass and the build up
is minor yes it sort of works. If you cut wet grass and the build is
heavy, it just makes an even wetter bunch of grass stuck to the
underside of the deck, which eventually rots, get full of worms and
stinks to high hell. My solution now is to only cut the grass when it
100% dry (late afternoon or early evening before dew starts to set in,
and only after at least 2 days following a rain). This makes for nice
clean deck and good ejection (no clogging or clumping of clippings).

-John

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" <tbone_jerry@...>
wrote:
>
> Does this really work?
>

Well John, if I waited to try your solution. I would never be able to
mow. I'm not sure where you are at but here in Texas, we have been
having a record rain fall since years. I don't think that we had two
days in a row that we didn't get rain in all of May and June. We got
more rain in June than we got all in 2006.
But anyway thanks for the insight on the deck wash port.
<john@...> wrote:
>
> Short answer: Nope
> Long answer: Nope. Well, maybe. If you cut dry grass and the build up
> is minor yes it sort of works. If you cut wet grass and the build is
> heavy, it just makes an even wetter bunch of grass stuck to the
> underside of the deck, which eventually rots, get full of worms and
> stinks to high hell. My solution now is to only cut the grass when it
> 100% dry (late afternoon or early evening before dew starts to set in,
> and only after at least 2 days following a rain). This makes for nice
> clean deck and good ejection (no clogging or clumping of clippings).
>
> -John

I have two older John Deeres that I was going to restore one of
them.
I just have to many other projects going on and may never get to
this
one. If your looking for a restoring project this winter or even now
this just may for you or what ever you want from these two rare
tractors, I just don't want to hold on to them any more. There are
John Deere 110 (8 HP) serial number 188136M and John Deere 112 (12
HP)serial number 306580M. The person that I bought them from told me
he purchased them both at the same time and that the 112 ran then
but
did smoke quite a bit and was to be used as a part tractor for
restoring the 110. The 110 does smoke a little, has a very good
working hydraulic pump and lift, the deck has rust and holes, the
hoods,body and
body panels on both are in good condition. I have the JD 110
running now and use it as a Quad. There also a snow thrower that
will fit
either tractor he used every winter and it could use a new sprocket
and drive chain. The numbers on the snow thrower are E 2102 serial
119604M. Photos by wwhit111 or may be seen and or picked up at zip
code 16046 near Pgh., Pa. $700
(OBO) Also a John Deere STX 38 with a deck, bad tranny and the extra
hood came off of a 110 or 112. If you would like more pictures or
have any Questions please ask. If these don't sale then I'll have to
part them out. The hydraulic pump and lift will be painted Cub Cadet
yellow for one of my Cub Cadets.
wwhit111@...

I bought it new @ home depot in 2002 only have 45 hours on it and it
cranks over like a weak battery I replaced the battery same problem
burnt up a starter I replaced the starter spoke to some one @ john deere
and he mentioned something about ACR automatic compression release does
anyone have any sugestions? Thanks Robert
--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "fdstroker"
<bimmer2000@...> wrote:
>
> These engines seem to require more cranking than most people may be
> used to. When the tractor has sat for a while the fuel drains out of
> the mechanical fuel pump. If the tractor has been run recently the
> fuel has less time to drain out and starts are quicker. When the
> tractor has sat for days or weeks it requires a few
> revolutions of the engine to pressurize the fuel system.
>
> My L120 starts best if the throttle is wide open and the choke is
> all the way on. Once the engine starts I back the throttle off to
> 1/4 open, wait a few seconds, and slowy turn the choke off.
> -Tyler
> L120
>
> --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Philip & Nancy
> Ketchum" nstringer100@ wrote:
> >
> > Is there a float valve that has become obstructed and is letting
> the gas from the carburetor overflow into the crankcase? On
> motorcycles the float valve has a seat it rests upon. In the
> resting position it seals off the flow of gas from the fuel line.
> If it becomes obstructed by foreign debris it can cause the
> crankcase to become flooded. Then it is much more difficult to
> start and would sound "rich" at startup.
> >
> >
> > Phil
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: spokanewalt
> > To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:05 AM
> > Subject: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: 118 Hard starting
> >
> >
> > I agree with the comments below.
> >
> > New Plugs, Oil change if it is due, etc.
> >
> > My L118 seems to be "cold blooded" and needs a little extra fire
> up
> > time if it hasn't been run for a few weeks.
> >
> > Spokane Walt
> >
> > --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "M.S. Dickerson"
> > <msdickerson@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't know the configuration/engine of the 118, but I assume
> it
> > has
> > > a choke. I would inspect the choke to see if it is closing
> all
> > the
> > > way. The linkage may be loose or maladjusted.
> > >
> > > If holding the choke fully closed while turning it over helps,
> then
> > > there you go - adjust the linkage for the choke.
> > >
> > > If its not that, then toss the plug(s ?) and put new ones in.
> > >
> > > I also assume the battery is ok.
> > >
> > > Let us know what you see...
> > >
> > > If neither of those ideas work, then we shall continue after
> you
> > get
> > > back here.
> > >
> > > steve d
> > > L130
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "pmartens12"
> > > <pmartens@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi folks, I've had my 118 now for one summer and one winter
> > season.
> > > > I've always had a problem with hard starting after it sits
> for a
> > week
> > > > or two. If I use it within a couple of days it starts right
> up.
> > I went
> > > > a head and put a primer bulb in the fuel system to see if
> that
> > helped
> > > > and it didn't. Any idea's?
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > SPONSORED LINKS Lawn mower Lawn mower parts Lawn mower blades
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------
> > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> >
> > a.. Visit your group "John_Deere_L100_Club" on the web.
> >
> > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > John_Deere_L100_Club-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
> of Service.
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------
> >
>

I don't know which engine is in the 2002 L100 but both Kohler and
Briggs and Stratton have manuals on thier websites that should contain
information on the automatic compression release if your motor has
one.

My L100 has the Briggs and Stratton engine and is sometimes difficult
to crank. When that happens I open the hood and grab the top of the
motor and rotate it manually to get it past the compression stroke. It
usually starts right up after that.

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "jinglesgone"
<jinglesgone@...> wrote:
>
> I bought this in 2002 @ home depot and have 45 hours it cranks over
> like a weak battery I replaced the battery same problem and I burnt up
> the starter I replaced the starter asked someone at Jonh Deere and they
> said something about ACR automatic compression release  does anybody
> have any sugestions? thanks Robert
>

L100's do not have have an ACR as a specific mechanism as the
compression is controlled by a combination of timing and valve
adjustment (assume you have a B&S engine ?) Given the limited info you
provided ( ie engine type, size, etc ) I'll bet your compression is too
high due to valve adjustment, a not uncommon problem. This is fairly
easy to diagnose and correct as I had a similar problem on my l120.   A
compression test showed I was at about 140psi but the manual states it
should be approx 110. A simple valve adjustment to specification and it
been running great ever since.  Give it a try and let us know how it
turns out.

Mike




--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "jinglesgone"
<jinglesgone@...> wrote:
>
> I bought it new @ home depot in 2002 only have 45 hours on it and it
> cranks over like a weak battery I replaced the battery same problem
> burnt up a starter I replaced the starter spoke to some one @ john
deere
> and he mentioned something about ACR automatic compression release
does
> anyone have any sugestions? Thanks Robert
> --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "fdstroker"
> bimmer2000@ wrote:
> >
> > These engines seem to require more cranking than most people may be
> > used to. When the tractor has sat for a while the fuel drains out of
> > the mechanical fuel pump. If the tractor has been run recently the
> > fuel has less time to drain out and starts are quicker. When the
> > tractor has sat for days or weeks it requires a few
> > revolutions of the engine to pressurize the fuel system.
> >
> > My L120 starts best if the throttle is wide open and the choke is
> > all the way on. Once the engine starts I back the throttle off to
> > 1/4 open, wait a few seconds, and slowy turn the choke off.
> > -Tyler
> > L120
> >
> > --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Philip & Nancy
> > Ketchum" nstringer100@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Is there a float valve that has become obstructed and is letting
> > the gas from the carburetor overflow into the crankcase? On
> > motorcycles the float valve has a seat it rests upon. In the
> > resting position it seals off the flow of gas from the fuel line.
> > If it becomes obstructed by foreign debris it can cause the
> > crankcase to become flooded. Then it is much more difficult to
> > start and would sound "rich" at startup.
> > >
> > >
> > > Phil
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: spokanewalt
> > > To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 2:05 AM
> > > Subject: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: 118 Hard starting
> > >
> > >
> > > I agree with the comments below.
> > >
> > > New Plugs, Oil change if it is due, etc.
> > >
> > > My L118 seems to be "cold blooded" and needs a little extra fire
> > up
> > > time if it hasn't been run for a few weeks.
> > >
> > > Spokane Walt
> > >
> > > --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "M.S. Dickerson"
> > > <msdickerson@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I don't know the configuration/engine of the 118, but I assume
> > it
> > > has
> > > > a choke. I would inspect the choke to see if it is closing
> > all
> > > the
> > > > way. The linkage may be loose or maladjusted.
> > > >
> > > > If holding the choke fully closed while turning it over helps,
> > then
> > > > there you go - adjust the linkage for the choke.
> > > >
> > > > If its not that, then toss the plug(s ?) and put new ones in.
> > > >
> > > > I also assume the battery is ok.
> > > >
> > > > Let us know what you see...
> > > >
> > > > If neither of those ideas work, then we shall continue after
> > you
> > > get
> > > > back here.
> > > >
> > > > steve d
> > > > L130
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "pmartens12"
> > > > <pmartens@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hi folks, I've had my 118 now for one summer and one winter
> > > season.
> > > > > I've always had a problem with hard starting after it sits
> > for a
> > > week
> > > > > or two. If I use it within a couple of days it starts right
> > up.
> > > I went
> > > > > a head and put a primer bulb in the fuel system to see if
> > that
> > > helped
> > > > > and it didn't. Any idea's?
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > SPONSORED LINKS Lawn mower Lawn mower parts Lawn mower blades
> > >
> > >
> > >
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> > -----------
> > > YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
> > >
> > > a.. Visit your group "John_Deere_L100_Club" on the web.
> > >
> > > b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > John_Deere_L100_Club-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
> > of Service.
> > >
> > >
> > >
-------------------------------------------------------------------
> > -----------
> > >
> >
>

Hello, I purchased a 155c last summer for mowing and bagging and am
pleased so far with it.  I live in Florida today but am being
transferred to Rhode Island next spring for work.

Should I use this mower for snow removal or obtain something else?  My
concern is the hydrostat.  It seems very weak compared to others I
have owned.  The tractor, frame and engine seem more than capable but
the tranny seems very light.  It whines even when the bagger gets full
(added weight).  You just don't get that great feeling from the tranny
that you do from the rest of the machine.

Any advice would be great.  Thanks in advance.

Darren.talbert@...

Hmmm, only upgrade I've made on my ole L120 is on the air filter.
Invested in the B&S premium dry air filter so I did'nt have to clean
and re-oil the pre filter on my Briggs anymore. This is a whole lot
nicer as when I want to clean it, I just take it off and take an air
hose to it and re-install :)

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mikejdl120@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi All, it's been a bit slow here, summer and all, so I thought I
> ask a question of you innovative guys.
>
> I'm curious to know what have you done to upgrade your JD and
which
> is your favorite upgrade.  This will be good help to our newer
> members and maybe share some great ideas for us all to take
> advantage of.  I'll start with 4 upgrades that come to mind that
> I've done on my L120 …
>
> This winter I installed ball bearings on the front wheels.  The
> wheels now feel much smoother and less wear on the spindles (seems
> to turn easier too).
>
> Installed grease fittings on the deck spindles, easy enough to
do.
> I think it'll be helpful.
>
> Installed an air horn.  This has been real helpful when I'm trying
> to get someone's attention.  I used the RIO button to activate.
>
> Currently in the process of double springing the snow blade so it
> does not flip down so easily.
>
> Installed a quick connect/disconnect on my 10P cart.  Spring
> activated and makes hook ups real easy.  I think this is my
favorite
> upgrade as I use the trailer all the time.  It was very easy to do
> and took the idea from a Sear's lawn sweeper.
>
> So what your list of upgrades ?
>
> Mike
>

Hello everyone! I'm new here so I thought I would say Hi and introduce
myself. I'm Jeff from Kalamazoo, MI. I own a John Deere L120 tractor
which I bought 2 years ago in August of 2005. I love my Deere and would
never buy or own anything else! I look forward to meeting and talking
more with all of you.

Take care,

Jeff

Hello everyone! I'm new here so I thought I would say Hi and introduce
myself. I'm Jeff from Kalamazoo, MI. I own a John Deere L120 tractor
which I bought 2 years ago in August of 2005. I love my Deere and would
never buy or own anything else! I look forward to meeting and talking
more with all of you.

Take care,

Jeff

Hello Jeff and welcome to the group.  With summer it's a little slower
here, but feel free to ask a question, I'm sure some members would be
glad to help with an answer :)

Mike
Mod


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <wingfan78@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello everyone! I'm new here so I thought I would say Hi and
introduce
> myself. I'm Jeff from Kalamazoo, MI. I own a John Deere L120 tractor
> which I bought 2 years ago in August of 2005. I love my Deere and
would
> never buy or own anything else! I look forward to meeting and
talking
> more with all of you.
>
> Take care,
>
> Jeff
>

Hello Jeff and Welcome :) I know how you feel about your JD, I've got a
2003 L120 and very happy with it also. We are glad to have ya aboard
here and if you got any questions or comments don't hesitate to jump
right in and post them :).



--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" <wingfan78@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello everyone! I'm new here so I thought I would say Hi and
introduce
> myself. I'm Jeff from Kalamazoo, MI. I own a John Deere L120 tractor
> which I bought 2 years ago in August of 2005. I love my Deere and
would
> never buy or own anything else! I look forward to meeting and talking
> more with all of you.
>
> Take care,
>
> Jeff
>

Hey all, it seems like it must be time to update our home page picture.  If you'd like a picture of your JD on our home page, available for the whole world to see, just send us a note (as described on the home page).  Just make it look good ( current pics is a good example of a quality pic)  and include a short description of your JD.   The group owner and I will select best pick from the hundreds  ( well, maybe the couple) of entries.

Mike

Mod

I've recently noticed some retailers, especially in the northern
states, are offering reduced prices on selected John Deere models.

Lowes for instance has cut $200.00 from the usual list price on many
Series 100 lawn tractors.

Just a 'heads-up' for the group.

Mike

Thanks!  It happens every year.  They usually try to move inventory out
in the end of Sept, too...




--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "mikesegorski"
<mikesegorski@...> wrote:
>
> I've recently noticed some retailers, especially in the northern
> states, are offering reduced prices on selected John Deere models.
>
> Lowes for instance has cut $200.00 from the usual list price on many
> Series 100 lawn tractors.
>
> Just a 'heads-up' for the group.
>
> Mike
>

Thanks! It happens every year. They usually try to move inventory out
in the end of Sept, too...

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "mikesegorski"
<mikesegorski@...> wrote:
>
> I've recently noticed some retailers, especially in the northern
> states, are offering reduced prices on selected John Deere models.
>
> Lowes for instance has cut $200.00 from the usual list price on many
> Series 100 lawn tractors.
>
> Just a 'heads-up' for the group.
>
> Mike
>

 They are selling them for less than dealer cost.

Patrick <pevans0@yahoo.com> wrote:

Thanks! It happens every year. They usually try to move inventory out
in the end of Sept, too...

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "mikesegorski"
<mikesegorski@...> wrote:
>
> I've recently noticed some retailers, especially in the northern
> states, are offering reduced prices on selected John Deere models.
>
> Lowes for instance has cut $200.00 from the usual list price on many
> Series 100 lawn tractors.
>
> Just a 'heads-up' for the group.
>
> Mike
>

---

Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.

Hi guys!  Before I do something I thought I'd ask the experts, ggg.

I have a bagger for my L120 so thatch is not a problem in my lawn.
However, I used Round-up on an annoying area in my lawn where centepede
grass has taken over my fescue (!#/!$!'/@#!!) and I want to use
thatching blades on that area before planting grass seed.

Is this something you would put on your John Deere if it were you?

Jenn

I've never tried these ( I assume you mean the little spring wires
that are attached to the ends of the blades ?  I would also be
interested to hear if anyone has used them and the experience.

Pending that feedback,  After you spray an area with roundup you
usually end up with a brown dry dead patch.  I have a similar area I
spray about ever 3 months.  I ususally just put on the mulching plug
and go over the area with the blade as low as possible.  If its dead
and dry it usually clears it out to near the ground, but raises a dust
storm

Mike


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer"
<jenndevine1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi guys!  Before I do something I thought I'd ask the experts, ggg.
>
> I have a bagger for my L120 so thatch is not a problem in my lawn.
> However, I used Round-up on an annoying area in my lawn where
centepede
> grass has taken over my fescue (!#/!$!'/@#!!) and I want to use
> thatching blades on that area before planting grass seed.
>
> Is this something you would put on your John Deere if it were you?
>
> Jenn
>

Tractor supply sells a pull behind thatcher, around 50 bucks. It
seems to work well, similar to the sears unit but a little less $.I
think this would be less then buying thatcher blades for your machine
if they make them.

Carl
--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mikejdl120@...>
wrote:
>
> I've never tried these ( I assume you mean the little spring wires
> that are attached to the ends of the blades ?  I would also be
> interested to hear if anyone has used them and the experience.
>
> Pending that feedback,  After you spray an area with roundup you
> usually end up with a brown dry dead patch.  I have a similar area
I
> spray about ever 3 months.  I ususally just put on the mulching
plug
> and go over the area with the blade as low as possible.  If its
dead
> and dry it usually clears it out to near the ground, but raises a
dust
> storm
>
> Mike
>
>
> --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer"
> <jenndevine1@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi guys!  Before I do something I thought I'd ask the experts,
ggg.
> >
> > I have a bagger for my L120 so thatch is not a problem in my
lawn.
> > However, I used Round-up on an annoying area in my lawn where
> centepede
> > grass has taken over my fescue (!#/!$!'/@#!!) and I want to use
> > thatching blades on that area before planting grass seed.
> >
> > Is this something you would put on your John Deere if it were you?
> >
> > Jenn
> >
>

I'd try to isolate the problem.  I belive, but would like to
confirm, the seat switch is a normally open momentary closed switch
(i.e. closed when you're sitting on it).  For testing purposes you
should be able to bypass it by disconnecting it then jumpering the
conection.  Once jumpered see if you get if you experience the same
problem.

Can anyone else confirm that ths switch is a normally open device or
have a better solution ?

Mike


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, Yiu-Yo Yih <y_yih@...>
wrote:
>
> I bought a JD L100 three years ago. It was alright  for a while
until last year it failed to start. I was told by the dealer that it
was the switch under the seat. So they replaced that and it works
again. This Spring, the same problem happened again and they
replaced the switch again. I used for a few times and guess what it
won't start again today. I checked the website of the Delta System
Inc that produced the part it says the switch should last 100,000
cycles.
>
> When I turn the key the engine would attempt to start then it
quickly shuts down. I made sure that the battery is charged up, the
results is the same. It may be something simple other than that
switch.
>
> Any help is appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Yo Yih
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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