My '03 is doing the same thing and all I have done is paint it in the
fall before I put the tractor away for the winter with some antirust
paint.  Yours is doing the same exact thing as mine and every deck I
have seen on all brands does it In my experience.  Those decks get a
lot of abuse and are under a lot of stress.  No amount of paint is
going to protect it from having some paint chipping off.  My L-120 has
a little over 200 hours on it and it does show but I am well pleased
with the service I have received from it.  No major issues except from
my abuse (I hit a tree stump and damaged a spindle)>  --- In
John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Greg" <CGR2@n...> wrote:
> The yellow is flaking off on my 2003 L-120 mower deck [~85 hours].
> This was first noticed within 6 months from new.  The dealer said
most
> all decks will do this-which I think is horse puckey.  Maybe on the
> bottom where the grass is contuinally, but not on the top, starting
at
> the edges and working towards the top.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem?
>
> After getting no satisfaction from my dealer, I am careful to spray a
> rust killer on any bare places on the deck until winter when I think
I
> will have it re-powder coated.
>
> Comments-good or bad?
>
> Greg

----- Original Message -----

From: Tony Paquette

To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:02 AM

Subject: Re: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: Removing blades for sharpening---#%&*!@ Arghhhhhh!!

Taken the advice of everyone, I did remove the deck in all about 5 minutes. The blades are a totally different story. Socket and ratchet wrench/breaker bar, forget about it! Changing the blades gave me enough reason to go out a buy the compressor and air tools I've been contemplating getting for some time now. Once in hand the blades were off in minutes. My recommendation, no impact wrench, don't even bother. That is unless you can use this as an excuse to by more power tools like I did.

 

Thanks everyone.

Greg <CGR2@...> wrote:

The easiest way is to pay someone else to do the job-but that isn't
the answer you were looking for:>)  Sometimes I use a 'cherry picker'
aka engine hoist to pick up the front by hooking onto the bumper-gives
great access and quick to do.

Lacking that, I would remove the deck- make sure you have the manual
or remember how the belt is routed. [You might ask to borrow an impact
wrench to initally loosten the bolts.]

BTW, you DO have a front bumper, don't you?  Saves the headlights/fake
bumper while transporting.
Greg

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "M. Shane Rudd"
<mitch256@n...> wrote:
> Is it just me or is it VERY difficult to remove the bolts that hold
> the
> blades on so you can sharpen them!!!!!  They seem to get encrusted
> with
> dirt and grass and I cannot get them to budge.
>
> I swear, my L100 blade bolts must have been vistited by the LOCKTITE
> fairy!!!  I cannot get them out.  I sprayed WD-40 on them and they
> still will not budge.
>
> What is the easiest way to loosen the two bolts to get the fricken
> blade off so I can sharpen it!!!

Just to finish off this thread -- I wound up turning tractor over to
local dealer & they had to replace the clutch -- said it was fried.
Strange sort of symptoms, but it does seem to be working.

Bill,
Just curious, but why can the blades not be sharpened and you must
replaced them due to sandy soil ?

The blades are held on with standard bolts (looks like a grade 8 or
10), they not a reverse thread.



--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Ingle"
<billingle@a...> wrote:
> I've been following this thread with great interest, since I know
I'll have to replace my blades at the end of the mowing season due
to our sandy "soil".  One question: How is the retaining nut
threaded?  Do I turn clockwise or counter-clockwise to get it off?
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Tony Paquette
>   To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:02 AM
>   Subject: Re: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: Removing blades for
sharpening---#%&*!@ Arghhhhhh!!
>
>
>   Taken the advice of everyone, I did remove the deck in all about
5 minutes. The blades are a totally different story. Socket and
ratchet wrench/breaker bar, forget about it! Changing the blades
gave me enough reason to go out a buy the compressor and air tools
I've been contemplating getting for some time now. Once in hand the
blades were off in minutes. My recommendation, no impact wrench,
don't even bother. That is unless you can use this as an excuse to
by more power tools like I did.
>
>   Thanks everyone.
>
>   Greg <CGR2@n...> wrote:
>     The easiest way is to pay someone else to do the job-but that
isn't
>     the answer you were looking for:>)  Sometimes I use a 'cherry
picker'
>     aka engine hoist to pick up the front by hooking onto the
bumper-gives
>     great access and quick to do.
>
>     Lacking that, I would remove the deck- make sure you have the
manual
>     or remember how the belt is routed. [You might ask to borrow
an impact
>     wrench to initally loosten the bolts.]
>
>     BTW, you DO have a front bumper, don't you?  Saves the
headlights/fake
>     bumper while transporting.
>     Greg
>
>     --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "M. Shane Rudd"
>     <mitch256@n...> wrote:
>     > Is it just me or is it VERY difficult to remove the bolts
that hold
>     > the
>     > blades on so you can sharpen them!!!!!  They seem to get
encrusted
>     > with
>     > dirt and grass and I cannot get them to budge.
>     >
>     > I swear, my L100 blade bolts must have been vistited by the
LOCKTITE
>     > fairy!!!  I cannot get them out.  I sprayed WD-40 on them
and they
>     > still will not budge.
>     >
>     > What is the easiest way to loosen the two bolts to get the
fricken
>     > blade off so I can sharpen it!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
>   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>     a..  Visit your group "John_Deere_L100_Club" on the web.
>
>     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>      John_Deere_L100_Club-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------

----- Original Message -----

From: msmesurfer

To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 9:13 AM

Subject: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: Removing blades for sharpening---#%&*!@ Arghhhhhh!!

Bill,
Just curious, but why can the blades not be sharpened and you must
replaced them due to sandy soil ?

The blades are held on with standard bolts (looks like a grade 8 or
10), they not a reverse thread.



--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Ingle"
<billingle@a...> wrote:
> I've been following this thread with great interest, since I know
I'll have to replace my blades at the end of the mowing season due
to our sandy "soil".  One question: How is the retaining nut
threaded?  Do I turn clockwise or counter-clockwise to get it off?
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Tony Paquette
>   To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:02 AM
>   Subject: Re: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: Removing blades for
sharpening---#%&*!@ Arghhhhhh!!
>
>
>   Taken the advice of everyone, I did remove the deck in all about
5 minutes. The blades are a totally different story. Socket and
ratchet wrench/breaker bar, forget about it! Changing the blades
gave me enough reason to go out a buy the compressor and air tools
I've been contemplating getting for some time now. Once in hand the
blades were off in minutes. My recommendation, no impact wrench,
don't even bother. That is unless you can use this as an excuse to
by more power tools like I did.
>
>   Thanks everyone.
>
>   Greg <CGR2@n...> wrote:
>     The easiest way is to pay someone else to do the job-but that
isn't
>     the answer you were looking for:>)  Sometimes I use a 'cherry
picker'
>     aka engine hoist to pick up the front by hooking onto the
bumper-gives
>     great access and quick to do.
>
>     Lacking that, I would remove the deck- make sure you have the
manual
>     or remember how the belt is routed. [You might ask to borrow
an impact
>     wrench to initally loosten the bolts.]
>
>     BTW, you DO have a front bumper, don't you?  Saves the
headlights/fake
>     bumper while transporting.
>     Greg
>
>     --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "M. Shane Rudd"
>     <mitch256@n...> wrote:
>     > Is it just me or is it VERY difficult to remove the bolts
that hold
>     > the
>     > blades on so you can sharpen them!!!!!  They seem to get
encrusted
>     > with
>     > dirt and grass and I cannot get them to budge.
>     >
>     > I swear, my L100 blade bolts must have been vistited by the
LOCKTITE
>     > fairy!!!  I cannot get them out.  I sprayed WD-40 on them
and they
>     > still will not budge.
>     >
>     > What is the easiest way to loosen the two bolts to get the
fricken
>     > blade off so I can sharpen it!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
>   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>     a..  Visit your group "John_Deere_L100_Club" on the web.
>      
>     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>      John_Deere_L100_Club-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>      
>     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
of Service.
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------

The blades are held on with standard threads if they are the same as
L130s.

steve d
L130.  I replace blades every year too, but mostly due to the rocks we
grow here in the Helderberg Mts.


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Ingle"
<billingle@a...> wrote:
> I live in the "Sandhills" of North Carolina.  It's basically Coastal
Plain with hills.   Makes good golf courses and little else.
> The sand abrades blades something awful here.  They will narrow down
to nothing and will finally snap.  I never sharpen mower blades here,
the sand seems to keep them cutting just fine.  I just got my L100
this year, but was having to replace the blade on my push mower each
season, so I'm assuming that will continue.  I've talked to guys who
must mow more often than I do that have to replace their blades 2
times during mowing season.
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: msmesurfer
>   To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2005 9:13 AM
>   Subject: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: Removing blades for
sharpening---#%&*!@ Arghhhhhh!!
>
>
>   Bill,
>   Just curious, but why can the blades not be sharpened and you must
>   replaced them due to sandy soil ?
>
>   The blades are held on with standard bolts (looks like a grade 8 or
>   10), they not a reverse thread.
>
>
>
>   --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Ingle"
>   <billingle@a...> wrote:
>   > I've been following this thread with great interest, since I know
>   I'll have to replace my blades at the end of the mowing season due
>   to our sandy "soil".  One question: How is the retaining nut
>   threaded?  Do I turn clockwise or counter-clockwise to get it off?
>   >   ----- Original Message -----
>   >   From: Tony Paquette
>   >   To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com
>   >   Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2005 9:02 AM
>   >   Subject: Re: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: Removing blades for
>   sharpening---#%&*!@ Arghhhhhh!!
>   >
>   >
>   >   Taken the advice of everyone, I did remove the deck in all about
>   5 minutes. The blades are a totally different story. Socket and
>   ratchet wrench/breaker bar, forget about it! Changing the blades
>   gave me enough reason to go out a buy the compressor and air tools
>   I've been contemplating getting for some time now. Once in hand the
>   blades were off in minutes. My recommendation, no impact wrench,
>   don't even bother. That is unless you can use this as an excuse to
>   by more power tools like I did.
>   >
>   >   Thanks everyone.
>   >
>   >   Greg <CGR2@n...> wrote:
>   >     The easiest way is to pay someone else to do the job-but that
>   isn't
>   >     the answer you were looking for:>)  Sometimes I use a 'cherry
>   picker'
>   >     aka engine hoist to pick up the front by hooking onto the
>   bumper-gives
>   >     great access and quick to do.
>   >
>   >     Lacking that, I would remove the deck- make sure you have the
>   manual
>   >     or remember how the belt is routed. [You might ask to borrow
>   an impact
>   >     wrench to initally loosten the bolts.]
>   >
>   >     BTW, you DO have a front bumper, don't you?  Saves the
>   headlights/fake
>   >     bumper while transporting.
>   >     Greg
>   >
>   >     --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "M. Shane Rudd"
>   >     <mitch256@n...> wrote:
>   >     > Is it just me or is it VERY difficult to remove the bolts
>   that hold
>   >     > the
>   >     > blades on so you can sharpen them!!!!!  They seem to get
>   encrusted
>   >     > with
>   >     > dirt and grass and I cannot get them to budge.
>   >     >
>   >     > I swear, my L100 blade bolts must have been vistited by the
>   LOCKTITE
>   >     > fairy!!!  I cannot get them out.  I sprayed WD-40 on them
>   and they
>   >     > still will not budge.
>   >     >
>   >     > What is the easiest way to loosen the two bolts to get the
>   fricken
>   >     > blade off so I can sharpen it!!!
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   >
>   > -------------------------------------------------------------------
>   -----------
>   >   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>   >
>   >     a..  Visit your group "John_Deere_L100_Club" on the web.
>   >
>   >     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>   >      John_Deere_L100_Club-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>   >
>   >     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms
>   of Service.
>   >
>   >
>   > -------------------------------------------------------------------
>   -----------
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>   YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS
>
>     a..  Visit your group "John_Deere_L100_Club" on the web.
>
>     b..  To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>      John_Deere_L100_Club-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>     c..  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Moderator, Thank you for enabling RSS for this site (the new symbols
added under our home page mower) !

This allows us to add this group directly to our "My Yahoo" home page.
Very nice upgrade !

I have had my L108 for about a month. When I start it up and try to
back it out of my garage it won't go. It will go forward but not in
reverse. Then it will barely start to creep and after a while it's as
if something catches and it takes off. Is this normal or do I need a
trip to the dealer?

Call dealer.Let us know what he says.

--- bravesharto1o <bravesharto1o@...> wrote:

> I have had my L108 for about a month. When I start
> it up and try to
> back it out of my garage it won't go. It will go
> forward but not in
> reverse. Then it will barely start to creep and
> after a while it's as
> if something catches and it takes off. Is this
> normal or do I need a
> trip to the dealer?
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

If it's on level land it's not normal.  Occasionaly if I'm on a steep
incline and go into reverse it takes a short sec to get to top speed
but that about it.  If yours is only a month old, it sounds like
warranty work.  Maybe a belt, belt tension, or auto clutch issue.



--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "bravesharto1o"
<bravesharto1o@y...> wrote:
> I have had my L108 for about a month. When I start it up and try to
> back it out of my garage it won't go. It will go forward but not in
> reverse. Then it will barely start to creep and after a while it's as
> if something catches and it takes off. Is this normal or do I need a
> trip to the dealer?

There's a little lever in the back that needs to be pushed all of the
way in to fully engage the transmission. Make sure that it is pushed in
all of the way. If it is, and the problem still exists, see your dealer
immediately.



> I have had my L108 for about a month. When I start it up and try to
> back it out of my garage it won't go. It will go forward but not in
> reverse. Then it will barely start to creep and after a while it's as
> if something catches and it takes off. Is this normal or do I need a
> trip to the dealer?

Tried the lever and now it works perfectly. Thanks for the tip.
itsaved me a trip to the dealership.

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "tomstromie"
<tomsearles@y...> wrote:
> There's a little lever in the back that needs to be pushed all of
the
> way in to fully engage the transmission. Make sure that it is
pushed in
> all of the way. If it is, and the problem still exists, see your
dealer
> immediately.
>
>
>
> > I have had my L108 for about a month. When I start it up and try
to
> > back it out of my garage it won't go. It will go forward but not
in
> > reverse. Then it will barely start to creep and after a while
it's as
> > if something catches and it takes off. Is this normal or do I
need a
> > trip to the dealer?

Hey guys, I'm taking care of my father-in-laws lawn this month while
he's away.  The belt on his LT 160 went.  I have the new belt, but
I've never worked on a mower before.  I've only worked on cars.
Generally, I just need to know what tools I need.  The guy at the John
Deere dealer told me that I have to drop the mower deck to do it and
he showed me where the sticker is with the belt route.

So what tools should I use?  Should I jack the thing up?  Are there
any common problems that people run into with this?  Any tricks do
doing it?

Thanks in advance.

~George in Rhode Island

If it is like my L120 wannabe, you should first take the deck off
because you have to remove the shields around the pulleys. It's just
easier with the deck off.

Tools: a set of metric sockets to remove the shields and that's about
it. On the L120, you can take the slack out of the tensioner pulley by
placing a wrench on bolt holding it in place, and twisting. You are
not loosing the bolt, rather you are using the wrench as a lever to
stretch the spring.

Tom

> So what tools should I use?  Should I jack the thing up?  Are there
> any common problems that people run into with this?  Any tricks do
> doing it?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> ~George in Rhode Island

To looking4_u83..You have been removed from membership, your message
deleted, and banned from further posting

By the way, I have confirmed that while Deere advertizes front
weights for the L, they never produced any.  Guess I'll have to try
weights off the front bumper.  I was trying to keep the extra weight
off the axles by having them on the rims, but I'll give the front
bumper method a try.

Thanks,

Jim P



--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "rv_user" <nscp@p...>
wrote:
> Yes, I did mean front weights.  I have noticed at times when using
> the rear bagger, it can tend to "push" the front wheels when
making
> uphill turns.  Would feel better with a little more weight in
front.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim P
>
>
> --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "M.S. Dickerson"
> <msdickerson@y...> wrote:
> > I never saw a front wheel weight kit for the L series, just a
rear
> > wheel kit.   I made my own from suitcase tractor weights which
> hangs
> > on the rear of my L130.  Just a bracket I welded together to
hold
> the
> > normal suitcase tractor weights.   Lot cheaper than JDs rear
wheel
> kit.
> >
> > If you do mean front wheel weights, why do you need them?
Steering
> > weight?
> >
> > steve d
> > L130
> >
> > --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "rv_user"
<nscp@p...>
> wrote:
> > > Has anyone actually purched and installed a front wheel weight
> kit for
> > > their L series?  If so, what was the part number?   Having a
> problem
> > > getting the right one.  The number in the configurator
(BG10185)
> is
> > > incorrect.
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > Jim P

Hey All,

I recently purchased a new L118 and I love it.  I have a few questions:

1.  I'm coming up on the 5-hour oil change.  How difficult is it to
change the oil?

2.  Do you recommend I purchase the extended warranty/oil change
service?

3.  I'm interested in purchasing a blade for snow removal.  Any tips?

Thanks for your help!

--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "S_LesCamela"
<s_lescamela@y...> wrote:
> Hey All,
>
> I recently purchased a new L118 and I love it.  I have a few questions:
>
> 1.  I'm coming up on the 5-hour oil change.  How difficult is it to
> change the oil?

I change my L130 all the time, and its real easy.  But I dont know
which engine the L118 uses, so it may be a bit different.

>
> 2.  Do you recommend I purchase the extended warranty/oil change
> service?

How much?  $$$ - I did have to replace a snow blower gear shaft
assembly due to a impact with a log under the snow.  $220.  if its
covered by the warranty and its cheaper than the price of the parts
you break.

>
> 3.  I'm interested in purchasing a blade for snow removal.  Any tips?

If you have a small driveway and do not get much snow, a blade would
work fine.   In my case, I got the snow blower for a 1/4 mile driveway
with lots of snow (last year we had 110").


steve d
L130

>
> Thanks for your help!

Hello:

Oil change is a snap!  Remove plug, drain oil, replace screw-on filter, add
oil...you're done!!!  You will have no problems doing the scheduled
maintenance yourself.  I live in Northern Michigan and have a 250' driveway
so I use a the available 42" blower which works great.  Small driveways with
little snowfall, and room to bank it will accommodate a plow just fine.

Enjoy your Deere!
Greg

----- Original Message -----
From: "M.S. Dickerson" <msdickerson@...>
To: <John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 2:40 PM
Subject: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Re: New L118


> --- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "S_LesCamela"
> <s_lescamela@y...> wrote:
>> Hey All,
>>
>> I recently purchased a new L118 and I love it.  I have a few questions:
>>
>> 1.  I'm coming up on the 5-hour oil change.  How difficult is it to
>> change the oil?
>
> I change my L130 all the time, and its real easy.  But I dont know
> which engine the L118 uses, so it may be a bit different.
>
>>
>> 2.  Do you recommend I purchase the extended warranty/oil change
>> service?
>
> How much?  $$$ - I did have to replace a snow blower gear shaft
> assembly due to a impact with a log under the snow.  $220.  if its
> covered by the warranty and its cheaper than the price of the parts
> you break.
>
>>
>> 3.  I'm interested in purchasing a blade for snow removal.  Any tips?
>
> If you have a small driveway and do not get much snow, a blade would
> work fine.   In my case, I got the snow blower for a 1/4 mile driveway
> with lots of snow (last year we had 110").
>
>
> steve d
> L130
>
>>
>> Thanks for your help!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

Changing oil is easy but a minor thing or 2 to be prepared for.
Have a small funnel ready and something to catch the dirty oil in
(kinda obvious)and be ready to remove the oil filter.  Oil filters
can be a pain to remove and many of the car oil filter remover tools
are too big for the small JD filter.  I was not able to remove it by
hand so have a tool ready.

Have fun !


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "S_LesCamela"
<s_lescamela@y...> wrote:
> Hey All,
>
> I recently purchased a new L118 and I love it.  I have a few
questions:
>
> 1.  I'm coming up on the 5-hour oil change.  How difficult is it
to
> change the oil?
>
> 2.  Do you recommend I purchase the extended warranty/oil change
> service?
>
> 3.  I'm interested in purchasing a blade for snow removal.  Any
tips?
>
> Thanks for your help!

Last post had me thinking about my upcoming oil change.  Getting rid of
the old oil is always a pain.  Just though I'd take a census - How do
you get rid of your old/dirty oil ?

----- Original Message -----

From: Summers, Jim

To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 10:07 AM

Subject: RE: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Old Oil ?

Recyle – Advance Auto parts stores accepts used oil

 

---

From: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com [mailto:John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of msmesurfer
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 10:04 AM
To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Old Oil ?

 

Last post had me thinking about my upcoming oil change.  Getting rid of
the old oil is always a pain.  Just though I'd take a census - How do
you get rid of your old/dirty oil ?

----- Original Message -----

From: msmesurfer

To: John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 10:04 AM

Subject: [John_Deere_L100_Club] Old Oil ?

Last post had me thinking about my upcoming oil change.  Getting rid of
the old oil is always a pain.  Just though I'd take a census - How do
you get rid of your old/dirty oil ?

I bought the L100 about a week ago, thought I would share my
experience and ask a few questions.  You all seem to have pretty
good knowledge of these things.

The only bad part of my experience so far is that the JD arrived
without a key, so I had to drive 45 minutes to get one.  Then it was
DOA (would not turn over) - come to find out it was because one of
the battery terminals was almost disconnected for some reason.  Once
I got it started it started bueatifully and seems to run and cut
very nicely.  Plenty of power and a very comfortable ride in my
opinion.  Very little vibration due to the AVS.  Tight turn radius
too.

Now for the questions/concerns.
1.  Yes, tha blades are almost impossible to remove.  I'm a very
strong man and I cannot remove the bolts with a socket wrench.  I
have a heavy jack and I hoisted it right up about 25 inches and had
easy access, but they will not budge.  It irks me that I might have
to buy an impact wrench to do this (but I greedily welcome the
excuse to buy a new power tool)

2.  Why are the "brand new" blades on my "brand new" JD dull as a
butter knife?  happily, the bagger system I bought comes with two
brand new and VERY sharp blades (although I can't remove the old
ones).  I purchased the last in-stock L100 they had (floor model).
he said it was brand new but maybe he was lying.  It looked new.

3.  Is it true that this can't be used for slopes?  I dn't have any
steep slopes but some gradual ones (maybe 20-25 dg).  I've mowed
them once already and didn't have any problems, but I'm worried
about engine dammage because I don't think this model has a
pressurized oil system.  Is it true this can damage the engine?

4.  Please will somebody explain to me how to install the bagger?
My directions that came with it had blurry pictures and seem
incomplete.  There are at least two major parts they don't even
mention.  To be more detailed:
    a.  Why don't the directions mention that you have to bolt that
steel latch thing that the support rod goes through to the steel bar
that holds the bags?  I assume the 4 nuts and bolts that came with
the bagger are for the new blades, but without a bolt that piece
won't stay on.
    b.  What is that big black spring pin looking thing used for?
Not mentioned at all in the install book.
    c.  What are those metal cage things used for?  There are two of
them.  Again, not even mentioned.
    d.  How the heck does the cover attach to the bags?  Probably
this is where that big black spring pin looking thing comes into
play but I can't figure it out.

I'm very frustrated with the bagger installation, but I love the
tractor so far.  If somebody could send me detailed instructions on
how to install it I would really appreciate it!  I have it all setup
to a point, but can't progress at this point.  I have the bags on,
but no cover or chute.  I think I can get the chute on fine, but I
need to know what the big black spring pin thing is for as well as
those two metal grate looking things.

Thanks for the help!

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and you can have your own green wristband to show off your John Deere
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and are available at a special sale price right now.  Just do a search
on Ebay for JOHN DEERE WRISTBAND.  These won't last long, so get yours
now!

Have to stress the importance of buying from a non box
store.Stop at a local JD dealer for a hands on demo.My
dealer did a demo before purchase & again @ delivery.

--- mowmadness <mowmadness@...> wrote:

> I bought the L100 about a week ago, thought I would
> share my
> experience and ask a few questions.  You all seem to
> have pretty
> good knowledge of these things.
>
> The only bad part of my experience so far is that
> the JD arrived
> without a key, so I had to drive 45 minutes to get
> one.  Then it was
> DOA (would not turn over) - come to find out it was
> because one of
> the battery terminals was almost disconnected for
> some reason.  Once
> I got it started it started bueatifully and seems to
> run and cut
> very nicely.  Plenty of power and a very comfortable
> ride in my
> opinion.  Very little vibration due to the AVS.
> Tight turn radius
> too.
>
> Now for the questions/concerns.
> 1.  Yes, tha blades are almost impossible to remove.
>  I'm a very
> strong man and I cannot remove the bolts with a
> socket wrench.  I
> have a heavy jack and I hoisted it right up about 25
> inches and had
> easy access, but they will not budge.  It irks me
> that I might have
> to buy an impact wrench to do this (but I greedily
> welcome the
> excuse to buy a new power tool)
>
> 2.  Why are the "brand new" blades on my "brand new"
> JD dull as a
> butter knife?  happily, the bagger system I bought
> comes with two
> brand new and VERY sharp blades (although I can't
> remove the old
> ones).  I purchased the last in-stock L100 they had
> (floor model).
> he said it was brand new but maybe he was lying.  It
> looked new.
>
> 3.  Is it true that this can't be used for slopes?
> I dn't have any
> steep slopes but some gradual ones (maybe 20-25 dg).
>  I've mowed
> them once already and didn't have any problems, but
> I'm worried
> about engine dammage because I don't think this
> model has a
> pressurized oil system.  Is it true this can damage
> the engine?
>
> 4.  Please will somebody explain to me how to
> install the bagger?
> My directions that came with it had blurry pictures
> and seem
> incomplete.  There are at least two major parts they
> don't even
> mention.  To be more detailed:
>    a.  Why don't the directions mention that you
> have to bolt that
> steel latch thing that the support rod goes through
> to the steel bar
> that holds the bags?  I assume the 4 nuts and bolts
> that came with
> the bagger are for the new blades, but without a
> bolt that piece
> won't stay on.
>    b.  What is that big black spring pin looking
> thing used for?
> Not mentioned at all in the install book.
>    c.  What are those metal cage things used for?
> There are two of
> them.  Again, not even mentioned.
>    d.  How the heck does the cover attach to the
> bags?  Probably
> this is where that big black spring pin looking
> thing comes into
> play but I can't figure it out.
>
> I'm very frustrated with the bagger installation,
> but I love the
> tractor so far.  If somebody could send me detailed
> instructions on
> how to install it I would really appreciate it!  I
> have it all setup
> to a point, but can't progress at this point.  I
> have the bags on,
> but no cover or chute.  I think I can get the chute
> on fine, but I
> need to know what the big black spring pin thing is
> for as well as
> those two metal grate looking things.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
>
>




__________________________________
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Yeah I know I bought it from HD.  I couldn't seem to find a JD
dealer nearby.  I live in rural Maine.  It's sad because the
experience slightly tainted my opinion of JD, even though I suppose
its' not their fault.  But it is their responsibility inmy opinion
to ensure their dealers adhere to the company standards.  but hey,
as long as it runs great for many many years I'll be happy.  I can
deal with maintenance easy enough.


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, Paul -
<paulbetsy99@y...> wrote:
> Have to stress the importance of buying from a non box
> store.Stop at a local JD dealer for a hands on demo.My
> dealer did a demo before purchase & again @ delivery.
>
> --- mowmadness <mowmadness@y...> wrote:
>
> > I bought the L100 about a week ago, thought I would
> > share my
> > experience and ask a few questions.  You all seem to
> > have pretty
> > good knowledge of these things.
> >
> > The only bad part of my experience so far is that
> > the JD arrived
> > without a key, so I had to drive 45 minutes to get
> > one.  Then it was
> > DOA (would not turn over) - come to find out it was
> > because one of
> > the battery terminals was almost disconnected for
> > some reason.  Once
> > I got it started it started bueatifully and seems to
> > run and cut
> > very nicely.  Plenty of power and a very comfortable
> > ride in my
> > opinion.  Very little vibration due to the AVS.
> > Tight turn radius
> > too.
> >
> > Now for the questions/concerns.
> > 1.  Yes, tha blades are almost impossible to remove.
> >  I'm a very
> > strong man and I cannot remove the bolts with a
> > socket wrench.  I
> > have a heavy jack and I hoisted it right up about 25
> > inches and had
> > easy access, but they will not budge.  It irks me
> > that I might have
> > to buy an impact wrench to do this (but I greedily
> > welcome the
> > excuse to buy a new power tool)
> >
> > 2.  Why are the "brand new" blades on my "brand new"
> > JD dull as a
> > butter knife?  happily, the bagger system I bought
> > comes with two
> > brand new and VERY sharp blades (although I can't
> > remove the old
> > ones).  I purchased the last in-stock L100 they had
> > (floor model).
> > he said it was brand new but maybe he was lying.  It
> > looked new.
> >
> > 3.  Is it true that this can't be used for slopes?
> > I dn't have any
> > steep slopes but some gradual ones (maybe 20-25 dg).
> >  I've mowed
> > them once already and didn't have any problems, but
> > I'm worried
> > about engine dammage because I don't think this
> > model has a
> > pressurized oil system.  Is it true this can damage
> > the engine?
> >
> > 4.  Please will somebody explain to me how to
> > install the bagger?
> > My directions that came with it had blurry pictures
> > and seem
> > incomplete.  There are at least two major parts they
> > don't even
> > mention.  To be more detailed:
> >    a.  Why don't the directions mention that you
> > have to bolt that
> > steel latch thing that the support rod goes through
> > to the steel bar
> > that holds the bags?  I assume the 4 nuts and bolts
> > that came with
> > the bagger are for the new blades, but without a
> > bolt that piece
> > won't stay on.
> >    b.  What is that big black spring pin looking
> > thing used for?
> > Not mentioned at all in the install book.
> >    c.  What are those metal cage things used for?
> > There are two of
> > them.  Again, not even mentioned.
> >    d.  How the heck does the cover attach to the
> > bags?  Probably
> > this is where that big black spring pin looking
> > thing comes into
> > play but I can't figure it out.
> >
> > I'm very frustrated with the bagger installation,
> > but I love the
> > tractor so far.  If somebody could send me detailed
> > instructions on
> > how to install it I would really appreciate it!  I
> > have it all setup
> > to a point, but can't progress at this point.  I
> > have the bags on,
> > but no cover or chute.  I think I can get the chute
> > on fine, but I
> > need to know what the big black spring pin thing is
> > for as well as
> > those two metal grate looking things.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

Sound like not the best start, but it will get better.  Here my
attempt to answer your Q's, I'm sure others will upgrade  ...

Key:
Too bad about your key.  For future reference, I believe all JD 100
series keys are the same.  I know the Home Depot's have them as a
stock item.  Most of the floor models always have the positive
terminal disconnected and the key removed for safety so little
Johnny doesnt start the machine and chase Martha down the isles.
Since you have a floor model, I suspect someone just reconnected and
hand tightned the positive terminal for you, and forgot to put back
the key back.

Blades:
Yes blades are intentionally tight :), but not beyond the torque
possible through a decent 15mm socket wrench.  See recent previous
set of posts on this.  If you dont block the blades with wood block,
you'll never remove them.  If you dont want the whole compressor
thing for an air impact wrench you can get an electric impact wrench
for approx $30 at HFT.  However, a compressor is nice, in that you
can blow your JD clean of the grass after each use (instead of
water).  The blades should be fairly sharp with the blades being
sharpened to 1/64.  Any dings dints on the blades, can you tell if
they've ever been used ?

Slopes.
Slopes have at least 2 issues, safety and permormance.  I believe if
you can drive it safely on the slope without tipping, it'll perform,
similar to any 4 cycle engine - Someone correct me here.  Anyone
know what the spec is for max drivable slope angle ?  I have a 20-25
deg slope and never a problem.  The manual has slope safety
operating info.

Bagger:
Are you referring to the JD bagger or a third party ?  I had no
problem with the JD bagger, but I do recall that the instructions
were disappointing.  I can't recall a spring, unless mine was
partially assembled, perhaps on the cover to ease lifting.  I do
recall that it all seemed a little backwards until you got it
attached.  Maybe with your handheld phone you call JD cust support
and ask them while you are with your machine and parts.  If that
does not work, or if someone here has just recenly done this can't
explain, let us know, perhaps we could post a close pic(s)for you.
Also, in a pinch, I find my regualar musching blades will work with
the bagger if you go slower, but no question the bagger high lift
blades are best.  Good luck, Mike.


--- In John_Deere_L100_Club@yahoogroups.com, "mowmadness"
<mowmadness@y...> wrote:
> I bought the L100 about a week ago, thought I would share my
> experience and ask a few questions.  You all seem to have pretty
> good knowledge of these things.
>
> The only bad part of my experience so far is that the JD arrived
> without a key, so I had to drive 45 minutes to get one.  Then it
was
> DOA (would not turn over) - come to find out it was because one of
> the battery terminals was almost disconnected for some reason.
Once
> I got it started it started bueatifully and seems to run and cut
> very nicely.  Plenty of power and a very comfortable ride in my
> opinion.  Very little vibration due to the AVS.  Tight turn radius
> too.
>
> Now for the questions/concerns.
> 1.  Yes, tha blades are almost impossible to remove.  I'm a very
> strong man and I cannot remove the bolts with a socket wrench.  I
> have a heavy jack and I hoisted it right up about 25 inches and
had
> easy access, but they will not budge.  It irks me that I might
have
> to buy an impact wrench to do this (but I greedily welcome the
> excuse to buy a new power tool)
>
> 2.  Why are the "brand new" blades on my "brand new" JD dull as a
> butter knife?  happily, the bagger system I bought comes with two
> brand new and VERY sharp blades (although I can't remove the old
> ones).  I purchased the last in-stock L100 they had (floor
model).
> he said it was brand new but maybe he was lying.  It looked new.
>
> 3.  Is it true that this can't be used for slopes?  I dn't have
any
> steep slopes but some gradual ones (maybe 20-25 dg).  I've mowed
> them once already and didn't have any problems, but I'm worried
> about engine dammage because I don't think this model has a
> pressurized oil system.  Is it true this can damage the engine?
>
> 4.  Please will somebody explain to me how to install the bagger?
> My directions that came with it had blurry pictures and seem
> incomplete.  There are at least two major parts they don't even
> mention.  To be more detailed:
>    a.  Why don't the directions mention that you have to bolt that
> steel latch thing that the support rod goes through to the steel
bar
> that holds the bags?  I assume the 4 nuts and bolts that came with
> the bagger are for the new blades, but without a bolt that piece
> won't stay on.
>    b.  What is that big black spring pin looking thing used for?
> Not mentioned at all in the install book.
>    c.  What are those metal cage things used for?  There are two
of
> them.  Again, not even mentioned.
>    d.  How the heck does the cover attach to the bags?  Probably
> this is where that big black spring pin looking thing comes into
> play but I can't figure it out.
>
> I'm very frustrated with the bagger installation, but I love the
> tractor so far.  If somebody could send me detailed instructions
on
> how to install it I would really appreciate it!  I have it all
setup
> to a point, but can't progress at this point.  I have the bags on,
> but no cover or chute.  I think I can get the chute on fine, but I
> need to know what the big black spring pin thing is for as well as
> those two metal grate looking things.
>
> Thanks for the help!