" Why not use ripstop nylon, available in a beautiful range of colors, or mylar?
Both are impervious to the flow of air, too."

Because- anything but polyester (dacron) is illegal in the Class.  And the cloth
must be between .004" and .007" thickness.

Reason: the Soling One Meter is a low-cost, one design boat.  They are amazingly
identical.

The dacron sails that come with the kit are competitive with any sailmaker's
sails- and although the detail and the life of the sailmakers' products are
probably better- they are not faster.

Nylon sails are probably faster in light air but blow out faster in heavy air-
mylar would be more expensive, and not worth it, since the legal sails are just
flat panels of cloth without any seams, anyway.

Oddly enough, in the Soling, there is a big difference in performance based on
how you tune the rig- and the flat sails are harder to tune than would be shaped
sails.  IMHO this adds to the difficulty and challenge of sailing the boat well.

There are other one meter boats that are more sophisticated, with "exotic" sail
materials, lighter weight from using high-tech materials in the hull and spars,
etc.  They are faster-- but I don't think they are more fun. But.. we encourage
those who WANT that- to go to some of those other classes.

Why not use ripstop nylon, available in a beautiful range of colors, or mylar? 
Both are impervious to the flow of air, too.

--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, bruce hubble <brucembh@...> wrote:
>
> http://challengesailcloth.com/cloth.htm
>  
> Use the utility dacron, light material.
>  
> Does everyone agree that this material is "legal"?  I hope so, as I made new
sails from it!
>  
> Bruce Hubble
> Boyne City, MI
>
> --- On Tue, 12/29/09, cobalt357@... <cobalt357@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: cobalt357@... <cobalt357@...>
> Subject: Re: [Soling One Meter] Sail material
> To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 10:01 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dplin2001 <dplin2001@yahoo. com>
> To: SolingOneMeter@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2009 9:55 pm
> Subject: [Soling One Meter] Sail material
>
> Does anyone have the contact at challenge sailcolth anymore. I am thinking of
ordering some polymax 92. Anyone find some good sailcloth to use with the new
rules??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Soling One Meter Class Rules:
6.1 Sail Material sails shall made only from woven polyester fiber cloth, having
a thickness of 0.004 to 0.007 inches.
0.004 for light wind
0.007 for heavy wind

Baron Bremer
--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "robertseiden" <theseidens@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "Dplin2001" <dplin2001@> wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone have the contact at challenge sailcolth anymore. I am thinking
of ordering some polymax 92. Anyone find some good sailcloth to use with the new
rules??
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dave
> ========================================
>
> Guys-
>
> When really useful info is posted here - copy and save it.
>
> Here's the Challenge Sailcloth info for two cloths that are class legal (.004
- .007" in thickness.
>
> The first is a lighter cloth: Polymax 92.  The catalog # is DPL 92 N60 (this
is what my order said (?) ).  $9.14/yard - 56" (?) wide.
>
> The second is a bit heavier.  Might be good for strong wind.  this is the
Polymax 112.  Catalog # is DPL112N60.  $14.60/yard - 60" wide.
>
> Order BEFORE their busy season which starts in February.  After that they get
too busy to take time for our very small orders.  Ask them to ROLL not fold your
order.
>
> The contact at Challenge is:
> Nate Masopust <nate@...>
>
>
> If you want to "hedge", make two rigs for your Soling - one with the lighter
and one with the heavier cloth.
>
> You lay out the pattern on the cloth with the leech parallel to the finished
(not the cut) edge.
>
> bob seiden
>

--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "Dplin2001" <dplin2001@...> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have the contact at challenge sailcolth anymore. I am thinking of
ordering some polymax 92. Anyone find some good sailcloth to use with the new
rules??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
========================================

Guys-

When really useful info is posted here - copy and save it.

Here's the Challenge Sailcloth info for two cloths that are class legal (.004 -
.007" in thickness.

The first is a lighter cloth: Polymax 92.  The catalog # is DPL 92 N60 (this is
what my order said (?) ).  $9.14/yard - 56" (?) wide.

The second is a bit heavier.  Might be good for strong wind.  this is the
Polymax 112.  Catalog # is DPL112N60.  $14.60/yard - 60" wide.

Order BEFORE their busy season which starts in February.  After that they get
too busy to take time for our very small orders.  Ask them to ROLL not fold your
order.

The contact at Challenge is:
Nate Masopust <nate@...>


If you want to "hedge", make two rigs for your Soling - one with the lighter and
one with the heavier cloth.

You lay out the pattern on the cloth with the leech parallel to the finished
(not the cut) edge.

bob seiden

http://challengesailcloth.com/cloth.htm
 
Use the utility dacron, light material.
 
Does everyone agree that this material is "legal"?  I hope so, as I made new
sails from it!
 
Bruce Hubble
Boyne City, MI

--- On Tue, 12/29/09, cobalt357@... <cobalt357@...> wrote:


From: cobalt357@... <cobalt357@...>
Subject: Re: [Soling One Meter] Sail material
To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 2009, 10:01 PM


 






-----Original Message-----
From: Dplin2001 <dplin2001@yahoo. com>
To: SolingOneMeter@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2009 9:55 pm
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Sail material

Does anyone have the contact at challenge sailcolth anymore. I am thinking of
ordering some polymax 92. Anyone find some good sailcloth to use with the new
rules??

Thanks,

Dave

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

-----Original Message-----
From: Dplin2001 <dplin2001@...>
To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, Dec 29, 2009 9:55 pm
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Sail material





Does anyone have the contact at challenge sailcolth anymore. I am thinking of
ordering some polymax 92. Anyone find some good sailcloth to use with the new
rules??

Thanks,

Dave









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Does anyone have the contact at challenge sailcolth anymore. I am thinking of
ordering some polymax 92. Anyone find some good sailcloth to use with the new
rules??

Thanks,

Dave

I saw that before, will the red and black wires attached to the battery, plug
into the red and black wires in the boat and also my charger, or will I have to
replace them?




________________________________
From: robertseiden <theseidens@...>
To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, December 24, 2009 11:50:02 AM
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Re: My Lightweight LiPo Battery

 


--- In SolingOneMeter@ yahoogroups. com, "Gary Jones" <gary49jones@ ...> wrote:
>
>
http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion1865074v2200mahrechargeablebatterymodulewithpcb\
.aspx
> Here is a better choice safer
> Gary
============ ========= =======

BUT, you have to wire on the plug. I don't enjoy doing that.

bob







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

For some reason the eBay store was not included.

Here it is agaiun:



--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "robertseiden" <theseidens@...> wrote:
>
> Within the past few days, someone asked about the "lightweight" LiPo battery I
am now using in my boat.
>
> FWIW, it comes from Hong Kong.  That takes from 14 to 28 days.
>
> It is a 2-cell, 1800 mAh LiPo.  It has a red female (with the holes in it) BEC
connector.  You need a male BEC to Receiver connector (another eBay item). 
You'd also need a servo extension wire to plug permanently into the receiver.
>
===========================

HERE'S THE SELLER'S EBAY STORE:

http://stores.ebay.com/skytallmodel

============================

>
> Look for the 3E 7.4v 1800mAh 10C lipo battery RC helicopter plane
>
> bob seiden
>

--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Jones" <gary49jones@...> wrote:
>
>
http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion1865074v2200mahrechargeablebatterymodulewithpcb\
.aspx
> Here is a better choice safer
> Gary
============================

BUT, you have to wire on the plug.  I don't enjoy doing that.

bob

Li-ion is marginally safer than Li-Po.  If you want a safe light weight powerful
battery then use this A123 LiFe Nanophosphate.  Packs don't need voltage
regulators because they operate at 6.6V.

I use it in my sailboats and large RC aircraft.

More info can be found here.

http://www.hangtimes.com/a123_batteries_for_giants_faq.html




--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Jones" <gary49jones@...> wrote:
>
>
http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion1865074v2200mahrechargeablebatterymodulewithpcb\
.aspx
> Here is a better choice safer
> Gary
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion1865074v2200mahrechargeablebatterymodulewithpcb\
.aspx
Here is a better choice safer
Gary

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Within the past few days, someone asked about the "lightweight" LiPo battery I
am now using in my boat.

FWIW, it comes from Hong Kong.  That takes from 14 to 28 days.

It is a 2-cell, 1800 mAh LiPo.  It has a red female (with the holes in it) BEC
connector.  You need a male BEC to Receiver connector (another eBay item). 
You'd also need a servo extension wire to plug permanently into the receiver.

Here's the seller's eBay store:

Look for the 3E 7.4v 1800mAh 10C lipo battery RC helicopter plane

bob seiden

JUST SO YOU KNOW. Gorilla Glue will expand a lot.




________________________________
From: jeff_gibbon <jeff_gibbon@...>
To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, December 23, 2009 11:53:18 AM
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Re:5 minute epoxy or Super Jet


Mike, Slotman, and Bob- Thanks for your input for my rudder! There is a lot of
wisdom in this group. Seems that a durable rudder filler is important. I will
experiment with different filler densities and let you know what I end up doing.
Does anyone know if set Resin is heavier than set Gorilla Glue?




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My $0.02 on Soling rudder construction.

1. Since I sail in saltwater occasionally I threw away all the brass parts and
used a solid stainless steel shaft for the rudder and a nylon bushing for the
tube.

2. I cross hatched and rough sanded all the plastic surfaces that would have
epoxy applied, roughened and scored the ss shaft with a file then epoxied the
bent ss shaft to one half of the rudder. Then I glued the two rudder halves
together per the plans using MEK. I then poured in a little thinned epoxy and
rolled it around the inside seams and poured the excess out.

3. To seal the top I stuffed a thin seal of cotton across the top gap and then
topped it off with epoxy. When the epoxy dried I sanded it flush with the top
edge of the rudder.

I didn't weigh the finished rudder but it floats in a bucket of fresh water and
does not leak --- the first one I built (with brass parts from the kit) that was
filled with epoxy and microballons did not float.

Chuck

On Dec 23, 2009, at 8:53 AM, jeff_gibbon wrote:

> Mike, Slotman, and Bob- Thanks for your input for my rudder! There is a lot of
wisdom in this group. Seems that a durable rudder filler is important. I will
experiment with different filler densities and let you know what I end up doing.
Does anyone know if set Resin is heavier than set Gorilla Glue?
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Being making Soling for ten years. The only Epoxy that can be used from hobby
stores is 30 minute. The fast(5, 10, 15, 20) epoxy melts in water.
I make all my rudders hollow using ca gap cement and the hollow brass tube. I
also make both tubes longer. Removal able keels are great for storage and
painting, and repairs. Kenny

--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, Erik Anderson <ea.anderson11@...> wrote:
>
> I've noticed in the Curtis Wright building suggestions, he says to use a 5
minute epoxy from any hardware store to glue the keel post and rudder post to
each of the respective keel/rudder halves.  The Victor plans call for Super Jet.
Is this an important detail?  Which should I use?
> Erik
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Mike, Slotman, and Bob- Thanks for your input for my rudder! There is a lot of
wisdom in this group. Seems that a durable rudder filler is important. I will
experiment with different filler densities and let you know what I end up doing.
Does anyone know if set Resin is heavier than set Gorilla Glue?

Thanks!  I guess I am OK.  Mine at the same stage of fabrication came in at 2.75
ounces (78 grams).  It is pine / fir from Home Depot.  I have a couple of bass
wood blanks rough sawn, not fully shaped.  The bass comes in at about 3.4 oz (96
grams).



--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "Al Stall" <alstall@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry, it should be 80g
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of dupontcat
> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 5:01 PM
> To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Soling One Meter] Mast weight
>
>
>
>
>
> Does any one know what a shaped Soling mast weighs -- just the wood, no
> hardware.
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.117/2581 - Release Date: 12/22/09
> 13:22:00
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

From the Class Rules, 2.3:  "The rudder shall conform to that supplied in the
kit."  And in the event a replacement rudder is fabricated "the same size or
smaller," it still must conform to the original shape.  Seems to me that
tampering with the thickness would not be legal. And, of course, the question is
always about intent to improve performance.  Plus,  I've seen references to not
changing the dimensions of the kit plastic, except for trueing fitted surfaces,
fairing the sheer to match the tops of bulkheads, etc.  What's true for the
original keel should be true for the original rudder.  Sand to a good joint, but
don't remove material.
--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "Mike" <mdwyatt@...> wrote:
>
> My 2 cents:
>
> A thinner rudder also "stalls" easier because the water flowing around the
rudder "detaches" closer to the leading edge, creating a "vortex"- bubbles-
therefore becoming less effective.  The rudder becomes less efficient- and you
have to turn it even more, and then it stalls more.  Soon, you approach all
drag- no turn.
>
> For this reason a thicker rudder is better, especially if you overuse the
rudder--as in waves, or if the rudder is a little small anyway- like in the S1M.
>
> But 2 oz. difference between using epoxy and filler(and it may not even be
that) is 1.25% less weight aft.  And it isn't a weight reduction- just a weight
re-positioning.
>
> I just don't believe in compromising strength for a small performance
advantage.  Remember- these are keel boats, and comparatively heavy ones at
that. THE major influence on speed is waterline length- which is why the top
speed is comparable for all one meter boats.  The only way to beat the waterline
length rule is a dramatic reduction in drag (as in a multi-hull, or a
ssuper-narrow hull) or a planing hull.
>
> Lower weight should mostly allow for better acceleration, all things being
equal.
>
> I agree with all the rest-
>

Ken: You can adjust the jib and mainsail booms to more fully open by moving the
sheet eyelets inward toward swivel. Although it is ideal to have those eyelets
directly above the fairleads, if your servo arms do not travel enough to allow
the sails to go fully out, you have no other recourse. You can get a servo
extender from servo city that will extend the throw of the arms to nearly 180
deg. as another alternative. Ask Marty how he likes his.

Chuck





From: Ken
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 8:04 PM
To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Sail arm



Can somebody take a clear picture on their sail arm configuration. I am having
trouble getting my booms to open fully.The configuration is not clear to me.
Thanks.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I had a couple photos from a friends boat I just re-worked,,

in the photo section under Derry's Soling,, the last two photos,,

the hole location/distance from the center of rotation on the servo is important
to reach full boom extension,,

hope they help,,

Derry

--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "Ken" <dogpatch87@...> wrote:
>
> Can somebody take a clear picture on their sail arm configuration. I am having
trouble getting my booms to open fully.The configuration is not clear to me.
Thanks.
>

Can somebody take a clear picture on their sail arm configuration. I am having
trouble getting my booms to open fully.The configuration is not clear to me.
Thanks.

Sorry, it should be 80g



   _____

From: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of dupontcat
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 5:01 PM
To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Mast weight





Does any one know what a shaped Soling mast weighs -- just the wood, no
hardware.



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.117/2581 - Release Date: 12/22/09
13:22:00




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I made three masts and the one I have left weighs in at 2.8oz or 80g.  It is
tear drop shape with ¾ of the holes drilled, slot cut for crane and hole
drilled for the jack.



It’s poplar and cut to 51”.



   _____

From: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of dupontcat
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 5:01 PM
To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Mast weight





Does any one know what a shaped Soling mast weighs -- just the wood, no
hardware.



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 9.0.722 / Virus Database: 270.14.117/2581 - Release Date: 12/22/09
13:22:00




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Does any one know what a shaped Soling mast weighs -- just the wood, no
hardware.

My 2 cents:

A thinner rudder also "stalls" easier because the water flowing around the
rudder "detaches" closer to the leading edge, creating a "vortex"- bubbles-
therefore becoming less effective.  The rudder becomes less efficient- and you
have to turn it even more, and then it stalls more.  Soon, you approach all
drag- no turn.

For this reason a thicker rudder is better, especially if you overuse the
rudder--as in waves, or if the rudder is a little small anyway- like in the S1M.

But 2 oz. difference between using epoxy and filler(and it may not even be that)
is 1.25% less weight aft.  And it isn't a weight reduction- just a weight
re-positioning.

I just don't believe in compromising strength for a small performance advantage.
Remember- these are keel boats, and comparatively heavy ones at that. THE major
influence on speed is waterline length- which is why the top speed is comparable
for all one meter boats.  The only way to beat the waterline length rule is a
dramatic reduction in drag (as in a multi-hull, or a ssuper-narrow hull) or a
planing hull.

Lower weight should mostly allow for better acceleration, all things being
equal.

I agree with all the rest-

Did you check your charger output? It would be interesting to know if the
charger output is TOO low and causing your problem. Some times output is
molded  into charger case .
Ted L


In a message dated 12/22/2009 10:02:57 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
stantt@... writes:

Thanks  for all the replies. The batteryuniversity.com site is a must read
for all  battery users. Simple and straightforward explanations.. Thanks
again, I will  invest in a good charger based on this info......Stan T
-----  Original Message -----
From: lat3934715@...
To:  SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:05  PM
Subject: Re: [Soling One Meter] Discharging NiMH  Batteries



You will find a lot of valuable  battery info at this
site---http://www.batteryuniversity.com/


In a message dated  12/21/2009 5:57:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
lat3934715@...  writes:

What is the charging rate of your charger in mA (  milli-amps)? The NiMh
batteries do not need discharging as they are  allready discharged. NiMh
batteries do not need to be cycled (  ie.discharged ) to maintain their
ability
to hold charge  . In fact you do not want to deep cycle NiMh batteries as
they will  be damaged. Your best bet is to get charger with peak detection
capability for NiMh batteries and this charger will automatically charge
your
batteries until they are at capacity. Most peak  detection chargers will
also
cycle batteries as well .  However ,NiMh batteries do not require cycling.
For your 2450ma  battery you must have a charger that has an output at
least 250ma.  If your charger has output less than 250ma it will never
completely  charge the battery. I would prefer a charge rate of at least
500ma  for
7hours or so. With a peak detect charger you can use a peak  charge rate
of
C-1 ,which is one time battery capacity  for NiMh. However you need to be
careful of overheating at C-1.Thus  the reccomended rate of 500 ma . These
batteries should last 3  years not 3 months. I suspect your problem is
your
chargers output is too low for the large batteries you are using.
When using rechargeble batteries you should buy a peak detection
charger/discharger/cycler which will give you a valuable instrument to
peak charge
your batteries and perform any battery  problem diagnosis needed. Tower
hobbies has several such as Triton  EQ ,Triton Junior ( requires power
supply),
Hobbico  Accu-Cycle Elite . I have this inexpensive charger from
HobbyCity.com
which works great
_http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7028_
(http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7028)

In a message dated 12/21/2009 4:51:28 P.M. Eastern Standard  Time,
b.bircher@... writes:

It sounds to me  that you need to invest in a charger that will "sense"
the
amount of charge your batteries really need.
Nims are  just as prone to not being charged properly(using trickle
chargers)  as are the old fashioned ni-cads.
Go ahead and spend a few extra  bucks and get a charger that has
variable/adjustable charging  levels(mah) and I am sure your batteries will
last a lot
longer.Most hobby shops have a slew of chargers.Find one that will do the
job and never fear dead batteries again.

________________________________
From: Stan T  <stantt@...>
To:  SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, December 21, 2009 1:34:06  PM
Subject: [Soling One Meter] Discharging NiMH  Batteries

Lately my AA 2450 mAh and AAA 1000 mAh NiMH batteries  do not seem to be
lasting as long as usual. They are about 3 months  old, used only on
weekends.
I have heard that this may  be caused by not discharging them enough.
Without having to buy  another charger that discharges and charges for
$120 does
anyone have a suggestion to safely discharge them? If not, is there  a
recommended charger that "conditions" ? I currently us an  Energizer
charger
model CHFC. I called Energizer and  they said this was the best charger
they had.

Thanks...... .....Stan T

[Non-text portions of this message have  been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been  removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have  been  removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo!  Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks for all the replies. The batteryuniversity.com site is a must read for
all battery users. Simple and straightforward explanations.. Thanks again, I
will invest in a good charger based on this info......Stan T
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: lat3934715@...
   To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:05 PM
   Subject: Re: [Soling One Meter] Discharging NiMH Batteries



   You will find a lot of valuable battery info at this
   site---http://www.batteryuniversity.com/


   In a message dated 12/21/2009 5:57:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
   lat3934715@... writes:

   What is the charging rate of your charger in mA ( milli-amps)? The NiMh
   batteries do not need discharging as they are allready discharged. NiMh
   batteries do not need to be cycled ( ie.discharged ) to maintain their
   ability
   to hold charge . In fact you do not want to deep cycle NiMh batteries as
   they will be damaged. Your best bet is to get charger with peak detection
   capability for NiMh batteries and this charger will automatically charge
   your
   batteries until they are at capacity. Most peak detection chargers will
   also
   cycle batteries as well . However ,NiMh batteries do not require cycling.
   For your 2450ma battery you must have a charger that has an output at
   least 250ma. If your charger has output less than 250ma it will never
   completely charge the battery. I would prefer a charge rate of at least
   500ma for
   7hours or so. With a peak detect charger you can use a peak charge rate
   of
   C-1 ,which is one time battery capacity for NiMh. However you need to be
   careful of overheating at C-1.Thus the reccomended rate of 500 ma . These
   batteries should last 3 years not 3 months. I suspect your problem is
   your
   chargers output is too low for the large batteries you are using.
   When using rechargeble batteries you should buy a peak detection
   charger/discharger/cycler which will give you a valuable instrument to
   peak charge
   your batteries and perform any battery problem diagnosis needed. Tower
   hobbies has several such as Triton EQ ,Triton Junior ( requires power
   supply),
   Hobbico Accu-Cycle Elite . I have this inexpensive charger from
   HobbyCity.com
   which works great
   _http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7028_
   (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7028)

   In a message dated 12/21/2009 4:51:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
   b.bircher@... writes:

   It sounds to me that you need to invest in a charger that will "sense"
   the
   amount of charge your batteries really need.
   Nims are just as prone to not being charged properly(using trickle
   chargers) as are the old fashioned ni-cads.
   Go ahead and spend a few extra bucks and get a charger that has
   variable/adjustable charging levels(mah) and I am sure your batteries will
   last a lot
   longer.Most hobby shops have a slew of chargers.Find one that will do the
   job and never fear dead batteries again.

   ________________________________
   From: Stan T <stantt@...>
   To: SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Mon, December 21, 2009 1:34:06 PM
   Subject: [Soling One Meter] Discharging NiMH Batteries

   Lately my AA 2450 mAh and AAA 1000 mAh NiMH batteries do not seem to be
   lasting as long as usual. They are about 3 months old, used only on
   weekends.
   I have heard that this may be caused by not discharging them enough.
   Without having to buy another charger that discharges and charges for
   $120 does
   anyone have a suggestion to safely discharge them? If not, is there a
   recommended charger that "conditions" ? I currently us an Energizer
   charger
   model CHFC. I called Energizer and they said this was the best charger
   they had.

   Thanks...... .....Stan T

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--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, "jeff_gibbon" <jeff_gibbon@...> wrote:
>
> This will be my first Soiling. In this discussion 'bikebirder' suggested
filling the Rudder with resin, similar to the keel. Does it make sense to
anybody to fill the rudder with something lighter and possibly more boyant to
help shift the weight forward? Foam perhaps?
>
> Bad idea?
> --- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, Bill Hunt <ohiovol@> wrote:
> >
> >
===================

Roger Wilkins suggests - and I agree with him:
-Flat sand the 2 halves of the rudder shell to the point where the rod just
fits. Thinner rudder "RUNS" down wind faster.

-Flatten sides of rudder post a little after the slight bend at base. Internal
rod (use a rod, NOT a tube) to extend into the rudder body down to bend.

-Assemble and glue (use CA) rudder post into shell per Victor's instructions.

-Fill rudder with white Gorilla Glue. This expands and "foams". Available in
small bottles @ the Home Depot.

-This foam/glue will have to be trimmed at top of rudder, then a little epoxy/**
will confirm a sealed rudder.

. . . . . /** I use "MMD fast drying White Putty" found at any hobby shop. MMD
hardens well and is easier to sand than epoxy.

-File a flat spot on rudder post for the tightening screw on the rudder horn.

-Use a hex or allen head machine screw (4-40?) as a set screw on your rudder
horn and a long ball end hex or allen screwdriver to tighten it.

bob seiden

I agree ,1800 mah should last for a day -3-4hrs- of sailing even with
digital servos. Typical usage rates are 250 to 400mah w/digital servos
depending on sailing conditions.
  I find your battery weights unusually light .Who is the manufacturer  and
distibutor?  What connectors are you using? I am going to reweigh mine
tomorrow.
Also, do not store your batteries in the boat or in the house or garage
unless they are in a closed fireproof container. I use an ammo box. If
batteries  are damaged they should be discarded as if they were live ammo
preferably  at a recycling facility.
To determine capacity use a LiPo capable cycler and determine capacity  and
then consumption from a day of sailing.
Hobbycity.com has a great inexpensive ($3or$4) voltmeter which can  plug
into the balance plug for a quick voltage check.  Also great  battery prices.
Zippy is good quality.
Ted L


In a message dated 12/20/2009 10:37:04 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
theseidens@... writes:



--- In SolingOneMeter@yahoogroups.com, lat3934715@...  wrote:
>
> Bob Seiden -What was capacity of your VERY lightweight  LiPo????
>
===============================

1800  mAh;  7.4Volts (actually charges up to over 8 Volts); 2.82  ounces

It is considered "discharged" at 6 Volts (3 V/cell).

BY  THE WAY - If you discharge a LiPo fully - as I inadvertently did last
week -  throw it away because it's been destroyed.  LiPo's have a lower
limit, 3  Volts, beyond which the individual cells should NOT be discharged.
Some RC forums talk about reviving a "dead" lipo cell.  I couldn't do  it.

The battery we're discussing has never gone below 7 volts after  sailing.

I have not yet gone out and timed how long it will last in use  on a full
charge.  I have a sense it will last far longer than anyone  would want to
sail.  I suspect I could sail two afternoons (18 races) on  one charge.

I do not think I need greater capacity since more storage  comes at an
increase in weight.

For this response to your question, I  just looked at a 7.4V 2500 mAh LiPo.
  It weighs 4.47 ounces.  I  think I'll stick with my 1800 mAh battery.



bob  seiden



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