UnbelievableContainerGardening : Messages : 365-394 of 394

Tip: Test Old Seeds

If you've old seed do a germination test before ordering new seed. Roll 5 seeds into a moist paper towel and place in a glass jar. After 10 days, check the germination. If 1 or none, order fresh seeds.

Estelle
"If you can laugh at it, you can live with it. I do the best I can with what I have and laugh at it often."

#393

From: "Estelle Demers" <eadplantlady@...>
Date: Sun Jan 3, 2010 11:50 am
Subject: Making Seedstarting Containers

quirrell2

Offline

Q&A: Making Seedstarting Containers

Question: Do you have some suggestions for easy-to-make containers for starting seeds?

Answer: Different plants need different sizes of containers, but most will do well in a 6- by 6-inch pot. Seed germination can take place in shallower soil, but then you'd have to transplant the seedlings later. So, to keep it simple, use the same container for germinating and growing. No matter where it came from or what it used to be, every container must have a drainage hole in the bottom to avoid waterlogging the plants. Drainage holes are usually about the size of a dime. Here are a few ideas 1. Milk cartons. The quart size can be cut down to make 4- by 6-inch containers, or your kids could collect the pint-size cartons from school. 2. Plastic soda bottles. The 2-liter size makes a nice deep container. Cut off the top for easy 6- by 6-inch sizes. 3. Yogurt cups. The individual serving size is a ready-made seed-starting container. 4. Egg cartons. Either the cardboard or the plastic kind will work well for starting the seeds, but you'll have to transplant them to larger containers as soon as they've sprouted. Make sure that all of the containers are washed thoroughly. As soon as the seeds have sprouted, thin the plants to provide enough room for the roots. Fertilize with dilute liquid fertilizer. This indoor garden will be truly homemade.

Estelle
"If you can laugh at it, you can live with it. I do the best I can with what I have and laugh at it often."

#392

From: Pat Hall <tex.jandt@...>
Date: Sat Jan 2, 2010 5:57 am
Subject: Re: Are Paperwhites Worth Saving?

pjjhall

Q&A: Are Paperwhites Worth Saving?

Question: I have read that there is no way to save paperwhites after you force them? Is this true? Say it's not so!

Answer: If you forced your paperwhites in soil rather than on a bed of moist stone, you can TRY to keep them for another round. Success with keeping them year to year is mixed, but it would be an enjoyable experiment!

After the blooms have faded, cut back the blossom stalk. Don't let it go to seed, or the plants will put energy there instead of into bulb formation. Water and feed them for a month after blooming to help them form bulbs, and after that reduce water and stop feeding. The tops will then fade. Lift the bulbs and allow them to dry. Store them in an onioin bag in a cool, dry, dark, airy place. When it comes time to plant them for forcing, plant them in a good potting soil that drains well.

#390

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Sat Dec 26, 2009 11:53 pm
Subject: Living Stones

oldmugglelady

Offline

Living Stones

Plants in the Lithops genus are an interesting oddity; also known as �Pebble Plants�, Lithops look just like small rocks scattered on the ground. Individual plants have two fleshy, succulent leaves opposite each other which can be green but are more often slightly gray or even brown. Streaks or flecks of contrasting color give these plants excellent camouflage in rocky environments.

Lithops don�t need a whole lot of attention to be happy. What they do appreciate is a lot of sunlight. Full sun is best for a plant kept indoors, provided by placing it very close to a window with a southern exposure. (Make that northern exposure if you�re in the southern hemisphere.) If you live somewhat close to the equator in a mild climate, provide some protection for the plant from the sun at midday. Lithops will continue to grow with less than full sun, but a bit more slowly and the plants may not flower.

The flowers produced by Lithops are surprisingly pretty. They resemble white or yellow daisies and often obscure the leaves entirely. Lithops will flower when they are 3 or 4 years old so be patient if you are growing them from seed. Flowering occurs in response to a change in watering at the end of the dormant season, which in this case is summer.

During the summertime, Lithops should be watered very infrequently. Water only if the leaves begin to take on a shriveled appearance. At the end of summer the plant will break dormancy and begin to show new growth. When you see this new growth you should begin to water more often, continuing to do so for about 2 months. No water is needed during the winter. You will see old leaves begin to shrivel and die back, but do not remove them from the plant until they are completely dried out; the new growth will take the moisture it needs from the leaves that die off.

Lithops should be planted in a coarse potting mix that allows for good drainage. Cactus mix is a good option. You want to be sure that the potting mix is able to dry out completely between waterings to prevent the roots from rotting. Don�t water just because the leaves look a little shriveled; if the roots rot off the plants won�t get enough water and will shrivel just like a plant that hasn�t been watered often enough.

Propagation is typically done from seed. Spider mites are the most common pest of Lithops and can mar the surface of the leaves severely if they go unnoticed for too long. Lithops are non-toxic and are a fun way to get kids interested in plants. They don�t require a lot of attention, but once someone notices that they are looking at Living Stones, attention is what they�ll get.

#389

From: "cerwin905" <cerwin905@...>
Date: Tue Dec 22, 2009 3:55 am
Subject: TGTA Newsletter (Back Issues available)

cerwin905

Offline

TGTA Newsletter (Back Issues available)


Back issues of the green thumb alliance newsletter are now available for FREE
download at our message board under the More Plant Related Info forum on the
main board.

Here is the link
http://s14.zetaboards.com/TGTA/index/

Just click on it to find a list of back issues all ready uploaded (more to come
soon)

Also feel free to register on the message board and take a look at the many
other gardening forums and topics we have going (lots of pictures and
information as well)

If you need help just post in the help section

Thanks

#388

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Fri Dec 18, 2009 4:10 pm
Subject: Building Your Own Terrarium

oldmugglelady

Offline

Building Your Own Terrarium

Building a terrarium can be a very relaxing and highly enjoyable experience, both while your work is in progress and after it is completed. They can be very small or extremely large, depending on how much work you want to put into it and the space you�d like to keep it in. You might even be able to include tiny animals such as frogs or geckos. You�re creating a tiny world contained in glass and it�s whatever you make it.

Select your vessel. It can be as small and simple as a brandy snifter or it can be a large, elaborate Wardian case on a pedestal. Any clear glass or plastic container will do. It can be open to the ambient air or something with a lid or door. Some other ideas for terrarium containers are fishbowls, aquariums, bottles, jars, and bell jars.

Lay down your terrain. You�ll want to construct this in layers to keep moisture where it is needed. The way that this is typically done is by first putting in a layer of sand or gravel. This layer should be approximately half an inch thick, but may vary depending on the size of your container.

On top of the sand or gravel you will need a layer of charcoal to absorb any odors or impurities that may accumulate. Charcoal will also help with the circulation of air. You can use horticultural charcoal or aquarium grade.

After your charcoal is in place, cover it with a thin layer of moistened sphagnum moss. This is to keep the potting mix from falling down and mixing with the materials in the area below.

The last layer is a soil-less potting mix which is light and peatmoss-based. Using a sterile media such as this will prevent unwanted growth in your terrarium. When you add it to the container it should be just moist enough to stick together a bit but not adhere to the sides. The medium should be about an inch thick, but again, may vary depending on your container.

Add your plants. This is where you can begin to get very creative and add your own artistic touch. Choose plants that stay pretty small and grow relatively slowly. Position them to that they can all be appreciated from whichever side they will be viewed from. Popular plants for terrariums include mosses, ferns, ivies, Parlor Palms, Baby Tears, lipstick plant, miniature African violets, Carnivorous plants, Creeping Charlie, and Creeping Fig. There are lots of other great candidates out there, so don�t be afraid to try something you think would work out well.

After the plants are all in place, go ahead and add some finishing touches. Stones, shells, wood and other natural elements can all enhance the overall look of your terrarium. Place it where it will not only get some light, but where it can be admired. All that effort deserves to be noticed.

Finally once planted, a terrarium creates it's own rain cycle of condensation. Clip off any leaves that touch the glass to prevent rotting. If your terrarium dries out,mist rather than water so you don't disturb the layers of soil or over water.

#387

From: "cerwin905" <cerwin905@...>
Date: Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:10 pm
Subject: The Green Thumb Alliance Free gardening Newsletter

cerwin905

Offline

The Green Thumb Alliance Free gardening Newsletter

Issue # 29 is available for FREE download at

  http://www.mediafire.com/?zyz3ymzmywz

Let us know what you think of this issue as well request back issues to be
posted for online download as well (issues 1 � 28 are available at request)

Cerwin

#386

From: davie bear <wolfie45651@...>
Date: Thu Dec 3, 2009 10:16 pm
Subject: Re: Ponytail Palm

wolfie45651

Offline

i would like to know how fast do ponytail palms grow?
the reason i ask is the school that my kids use to go to had one in the front lobby of the school and it was huge i would guess it to be about 5-6 feet tall and the trunk was about 6-8 inches around it was in a storage type container and when the new school was built the palm was sold to the highest bidder and i was told things that was sold went cheep i wish i could have been there to buy it would have loved it but had to work.
so i want to get me a young plant and try to grow it to the above size i hope someone can tell me if they grow fast or slow any help?
thanks for your time,
dave

From: Ursula Demers <ursulademers@...>
To: All about Plants <All_About_Plants@...>; HOUSEPLANTHAVEN <HOUSEPLANTHAVEN@yahoogroups.com>; UnbelievableContainerGardening <UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, December 3, 2009 4:38:24 PM
Subject: [UnbelievableContainerGardening] Ponytail Palm

Ponytail Palm

Though not an actual palm tree, Beaucarnea recurvata (Nolina recurvata) goes by several names that describe it as one. Ponytail Palm and Bottle Palm are two names for it that describe its shape: a fat, fleshy trunk topped by a mop of leaves. Some other names for this plant include Elephant’s Foot, Palma Culona, and Monja. The Ponytail Palm was formerly considered a member of the lily family, but has been reclassified as a member of the Ruscaceae family. It shares this classification with Dracaena, Sansevieria, and Lilyturf.

Ponytail Palms enjoy full sun. The more sun you can provide this plant with, the happier it will be. You may want to summer this plant outdoors if you live in an area where the winters are cold and cloudy. Remember to slowly introduce the plant to the outdoors to avoid shocking the plant and scorching its leaves.

If you provide enough light and water appropriately, you just might get to see the occasional flower. Don’t feel badly if you never see one: Ponytail Palms don’t frequently flower indoors. Also, the white flowers and the stalk they appear on are fairly unattractive. It is the trunk and foliage of this plant that are desirable.

Ponytail Palms use those thick trunks of theirs as a water storage area. For this reason, water your plant less often than you think is necessary. Ideally, you want to water your Ponytail Palm thoroughly, pouring off any excess water, and then let it dry pretty much all the way out before you water it again.

Over-watering can spell death for the fleshy base and roots of this plant. Once rot has set in it is pretty difficult to intercede on the plant’s behalf. Additional steps you can take to avoid over-watering are using a potting mix with plenty of extra perlite mixed in or using a clay pot.

Ponytail Palms love dry air which leaves them open to attacks by spider mites. Scales and mealy-bugs are also potential pests so keep an eye out for stippling of the leaves, webbing, brown scabby lumps on the undersides of leaves, and white fluffy masses.

You can rest easy knowing that Ponytail Palms are not known to be toxic. They are a great choice for homes with pet or children.

Propagation is done most often by seed. As previously mentioned, flowers aren’t a common occurrence; when growing Ponytail Palms as a houseplant, you’re better off just purchasing a new plant if you’d like more of them.

#385

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Thu Dec 3, 2009 9:40 pm
Subject: Selection and Care of Christmans Trees

oldmugglelady

Offline

Selection and Care of Christmans Trees

by University of Illinois Extension

Fraser Fir Christmas Tree Farm

If you are interested in finding the ideal Christmas tree to decorate your home during the upcoming holiday season, a University of Illinois Extension horticulture educator has a few helpful hints.

"Christmas just isn't Christmas without a real tree," said Ron Wolford. "You can't beat the smell of a real tree but before purchasing one, you might want to consider the following steps."

Wolford recommends measuring the height of the ceiling of the room in which the tree will be placed and subtracting one foot to account for the tree stand.

"This will give you the maximum height to allow for your tree," he said. "Allow space for that tree-topping ornament. Choose a tree that fits where it is to be displayed.

"For example, if the tree is displayed in front of a large window, then all four sides should look as good as possible. If the tree is to be displayed against a wall, then a tree with three good sides would be okay. A tree with two good sides will work well in a corner. The more perfect a tree, the more costly it will be."

Trees sold from retail lots may have been harvested in early November, he noted. He recommended that consumers buy a tree early before the best ones are sold.

"Fresh trees will have a healthy green color with just a few brown needles," he said. "The needles should be flexible and stay on the branch if you run it through your hand. Raise the tree a few inches off the ground and drop it on the butt end. Just a few needles should fall off. Some brown needles in the inner part of the tree are normal."

Cutting down a tree at a local Christmas tree farm, however, solves the freshness question and consumers will also have a larger selection of trees to choose from.

"Some farms allow you to tag or reserve a tree during the summer, helping to avoid having to find the perfect tree in bitter cold weather," he said. "Dress warmly for your visit to the tree farm, wear comfortable shoes and don't forget a tape measure. Bring a camera to take that family picture of everyone around your newly-cut tree.

Most farms, he noted, will supply a saw and will bale the tree to make transporting it home much easier. Before cutting down the tree, make sure that the base of the tree is straight and at least six to eight inches long, so it will fit into the tree stand. Cover the tree with plastic or tarp to keep it from drying out on the trip home.

"If you are not putting the tree up right away, store it in an unheated garage or some other area out of the wind and cold--freezing--temperatures," Wolford said. "Make a fresh one to two-inch cut on the butt end and place the tree in a bucket of warm water. When you decide to bring the tree indoors, make another fresh one to two-inch cut and place the tree in a sturdy stand that holds at least one gallon of water.

"A tree can use two quarts of water per day. Be sure to check the water level daily and keep it above the base of the tree. If the base dries out, resin will form over the cut end and the tree will not be able to absorb water."

More information about Christmas trees is available at U of I Extension's Christmas Trees and More website at: http://urbanext.illinois.edu/trees/selection.cfm.

#384

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Thu Dec 3, 2009 9:38 pm
Subject: Ponytail Palm

oldmugglelady

Offline

Ponytail Palm

Though not an actual palm tree, Beaucarnea recurvata (Nolina recurvata) goes by several names that describe it as one. Ponytail Palm and Bottle Palm are two names for it that describe its shape: a fat, fleshy trunk topped by a mop of leaves. Some other names for this plant include Elephant�s Foot, Palma Culona, and Monja. The Ponytail Palm was formerly considered a member of the lily family, but has been reclassified as a member of the Ruscaceae family. It shares this classification with Dracaena, Sansevieria, and Lilyturf.

Ponytail Palms enjoy full sun. The more sun you can provide this plant with, the happier it will be. You may want to summer this plant outdoors if you live in an area where the winters are cold and cloudy. Remember to slowly introduce the plant to the outdoors to avoid shocking the plant and scorching its leaves.

If you provide enough light and water appropriately, you just might get to see the occasional flower. Don�t feel badly if you never see one: Ponytail Palms don�t frequently flower indoors. Also, the white flowers and the stalk they appear on are fairly unattractive. It is the trunk and foliage of this plant that are desirable.

Ponytail Palms use those thick trunks of theirs as a water storage area. For this reason, water your plant less often than you think is necessary. Ideally, you want to water your Ponytail Palm thoroughly, pouring off any excess water, and then let it dry pretty much all the way out before you water it again.

Over-watering can spell death for the fleshy base and roots of this plant. Once rot has set in it is pretty difficult to intercede on the plant�s behalf. Additional steps you can take to avoid over-watering are using a potting mix with plenty of extra perlite mixed in or using a clay pot.

Ponytail Palms love dry air which leaves them open to attacks by spider mites. Scales and mealy-bugs are also potential pests so keep an eye out for stippling of the leaves, webbing, brown scabby lumps on the undersides of leaves, and white fluffy masses.

You can rest easy knowing that Ponytail Palms are not known to be toxic. They are a great choice for homes with pet or children.

Propagation is done most often by seed. As previously mentioned, flowers aren�t a common occurrence; when growing Ponytail Palms as a houseplant, you�re better off just purchasing a new plant if you�d like more of them.

#383

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Mon Nov 30, 2009 9:06 pm
Subject: Flame Violet

oldmugglelady

Offline

Flame Violet

Episcia cupreata, commonly known as Flame Violet, isn�t a plant you�ll see everywhere you go. This makes it all the more exciting when you come across it. With its shimmering, velvety leaves and bright pink or red flowers it is attractive to foliage- and flower-lovers alike.

One thing that makes the Flame Violet such a gem to houseplant enthusiasts is that it prefers low lighting. If you have luck with African Violets, Flame Violets will thrive for you. Part to full shade is acceptable, but keep an eye on the growth of your plant to fine-tune the amount of light it is getting. If it doesn�t flower or if the leafy growth gets lanky, the plant likely needs more light.

Flame Violets need a moderate amount of water; never let it sit in water or dry out too much. The leaves of this plant are fleshy and will rot easily if water gets on them. To combat this, water from the bottom of the pot by filling the tray with water and pouring off any excess after several minutes have passed. High humidity helps keep Flame Violets happy; provide it by using a humidifier or by placing your plant on a pebble tray or in your bathroom.

You�ll notice quickly that Flame Violets are vigorous growers, trailing here and there and sending offshoots in every direction. To keep them healthy you must fertilize regularly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer that contains both macro- and micro-nutrients at half the recommended rate. There is no need to fertilize in the winter.

Flame Violets are not particularly susceptible to any specific insects, but it�s good to check new plants over thoroughly before bringing them into your house. Inspect the plant and its pot again any time you bring it in from time spent outdoors.

Propagation of Flame Violets is very easy. The plantlets that grow on the numerous offshoots can be rooted in water and then snipped off and planted in their own pot, or take a plantlet or stem cuttings from the plant and then root them. Either way, Flame Violets are not difficult to get going.

Hanging baskets make nice planters for Flame Violets as they allow the plants to really grow to their largest. You may also decide to keep one on a table, trimmed neatly. Fortunately, Flame Violets are not toxic, so you don�t need to worry too much about keeping them out of the reach of pets or children.

#382

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 5:48 pm
Subject: Pocketbook Plant

oldmugglelady

Offline

Pocketbook Plant

Flowering plants are lots of fun to grow indoors and can bring interest to a collection of foliage plants. Several plants in the Calceolaria genus make great houseplants when provided with the right conditions. These plants are commonly referred to as Pocketbook Plants, Slipperwort, or Slipper Flowers. The flowers that the plants are named for have an interesting pouch shape and can be found in any combination of brilliant red, orange or yellow.

Outdoors, Pocketbook Plants do well in full sun to partial shade. If you�re going to have success growing it indoors you will definitely want to give the most sun you possibly can. A lot of the sun�s intensity is lost when the light passes through a window pane; to compensate, place your Pocketbook Plant next to a window with a southern exposure (or northern, for those south of the equator). Two other options are to keep the plant in a sunroom or supplement with fluorescent lighting.

Pocketbook Plants are particular about their moisture; they need consistently moist potting mix. Do not confuse this with keeping the potting mix wet all the time. If the mix stays wet, the roots will rot away just like with any other plant. What you want to do is keep the potting mix from ever drying out all the way. Water the pot from the bottom when the surface of the potting mix has dried out. Pour off any remaining water after a half hour or so. It is helpful to grow this plant in a clay pot to help the potting mix aerate and to keep it in a sunny spot where the warmth can help the moisture evaporate more quickly. This way you can water thoroughly more frequently.

Propagation of Pocketbook Plants is simple. Typically, propagation from seed or cuttings is done. If you plan to collect seeds from the plant, allow the seed capsule to dry on the plant. When dry, seeds can be removed from inside the capsule. If you take cuttings, do not use any portion of the plant that is flowering. If you can�t avoid it, remove flowers from the cutting.

Aphids and whitefly are the two main pests that you will find on this plant, though occasionally mealy bugs and spider mites can hitch a ride. It is very difficult to remove insects from these plants because they hide inside the flowers and are hard to remove. If an infestation occurs you will likely have to cut off many of the flowers so try to use a preventative action such as a systemic insecticide.

Pocketbook Plants are considered toxic and no part of them should be eaten. Take care when handling the plant as there are hairs on the stems that will irritate the skin.

#381

From: Bobby Ray <atruefriend@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 7:52 am
Subject: Help - more details please - Use a fertilizer with balanced nutrition; it should contain both macro- and micronutrients.

hottubber.rm

Offline

"Use a fertilizer with balanced nutrition; it should contain both macro- and micronutrients."

I am ignorant about such things� ... please give more details and explanation.

Thanks
Bobby Ray

#380

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 2:18 am
Subject: Spider Plant

oldmugglelady

Offline

Spider Plant

Chlorophytum comosum, known best to everyone as Spider plant and sometimes as Airplane plant, was the very first houseplant I ever owned. It is one of the first plants in most people�s experiences with houseplants because they are so easily passed from person to person for free. My first one came from my mother�s plant and since then I�ve received baby plants from friends and coworkers all over.

Spider plants enjoy the sun, so find it a nice bright place near a window. Sunrooms are great, if you are lucky enough to have one. If not, try placing the plant near a southern, western or eastern window. If you will be summering your plant outdoors, it may need a bit of protection from the harsh midday sun.

Water somewhat conservatively; the fleshy roots of Spider plant are well-adapted to drier conditions and will rot if the potting mix is left wet. Water well and then let the soil dry out pretty well. If the plant�s leaves begin to look faded, it is just past time to water! Not much fertilization is needed so keep that to a minimum, as well. If you would like to fertilize, use a diluted solution infrequently. Every other month is plenty during the growing season and avoid it all together in the winter.

Mealy bugs are the most common pests on Spider plant. They can be hard to detect because they hide deep down between the leaves near the base of the plant. Scale insects can also sometimes be a problem.

Although unrelated to insects, brown, dead leaf tips can be a problem. This is caused primarily by the fluoride found in tap water. Contributing factors may be low humidity or too-infrequent waterings. Watering with rain water or distilled water is the best bet for stopping tip-burn. If you can�t collect rain and you don�t want to spend the money on distilled you can always snip the unsightly tips off the plant. Letting water sit overnight before using will help some of the chemicals in water, such as chlorine, evaporate, although I haven�t had any luck preventing tip-burn with that method.

Spider plant does flower; long, slender stems bear small white flowers that will eventually result in seeds. There really isn�t much point in propagating Spider plant from seed as a happy, healthy plant will send off babies in every imaginable direction. Plant babies can be placed in their own pots while still attached to the mother and allowed to root or they can be snipped off and potted. Obviously, the plantlets attached to the mother will fare much better, but success is pretty common even if the babies are separated. If you receive a baby plant that has been detached from its mother and the roots are tiny or nearly non-existent, place it in water to develop some roots for a week or two before potting it up.

If you haven�t tried growing Spider plant before, here�s a little extra incentive: Spider plant is non-toxic to pets and people. It is also reputed to be an excellent �air-scrubber�, removing formaldehyde, carbon monoxide, nitrogen dioxide and other pollutants from the air. Make sure you mention that when you�re handing off babies to your friends and neighbors; they�ll be even happier to accept the gift when they hear how �green� Spider plant is.

#379

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 2:17 am
Subject: English Ivy

oldmugglelady

Offline

English Ivy

English Ivy (Hedera helix) is one of the easiest-to-grow foliage plants and makes a wonderful houseplant. Outdoors, in many areas, English Ivy is considered a noxious weed because it is such a vigorous grower. It�s no danger to native species when kept indoors in a pot so put its full potential to good use above your kitchen cabinets, framing a window or cascading from a hanging basket.

One of the nice things about English Ivy is that it prefers indirect lighting. This is great because direct light can be hard to come by indoors. Use this plant to accent places in your home that aren�t suitable for more sun-loving varieties. There are many types of English Ivy to choose from with different variegation and leaf shapes. Different types can be planted together for more interest.

English Ivy is a good choice for forgetful-waterers. It prefers to be watered thoroughly every couple of days, drying out in between, but will tolerate dryer conditions than most houseplants. When the plant is at its limit the leaves will take on a grayish cast; those leaves will begin to get crispy and will easily break off the plant. While this isn�t something you want have happen to your plant, it is okay because the plant can always be pruned back and new leaves will grow.

I recommend fertilizing English Ivy with a slow release fertilizer in the spring so that you can do it once and then forget about it. If you prefer, a water-soluble fertilizer can used. Weakly, weekly, is a good way to go if you use water-soluble fertilizer. Keep an eye out for any white, crusty materials that may accumulate, as they indicate that the plant is getting more than enough fertilizer. If this happens, flush the pot out repeatedly with clear water and cut back on how often you fertilize.

English Ivy needs to be pinched back every so often to give it fullness and a nice shape; this is a great opportunity to start another plant. It is very easy to propagate English Ivy. Cuttings can be taken at any time when the plant is actively growing. Root cuttings in a lightweight medium with or without rooting hormone. Covering the rooting cuttings with a sheet of plastic wrap until roots have developed will increase success.

There is research indicating that English Ivy is an excellent natural air filter. Studies have shown that it effectively removes airborne mold spores and pet waste particles from the air. It is also ranked in the top 10 air-cleaning plants by NASA because it is so efficient at removing harmful chemicals, such as benzene, from the air. Who wouldn�t want a plant that can do that?

#378

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Fri Nov 6, 2009 2:15 am
Subject: Swiss Cheese Plant

oldmugglelady

Offline

Swiss Cheese Plant

There are two foliage plants that go by the common name Swiss Cheese Plant. Monstera obliqua has holes in its leaves and the very similar Monstera deliciosa has split leaves. Other than the slight difference in the appearance of their leaves, the two plants are indistinguishable to the average person. For this reason, they also share a few other �common� names: Split Leaf Philodendron, Mexican Breadfruit and Windowleaf. Split Leaf Philodendron and Mexican Breadfruit are more accurate names for M. deliciosa and Windowleaf makes more sense for M. obliqua, but the names are used for both. The care of either of these species is pretty much the same when growing them indoors.

Swiss Cheese Plant does well in filtered or light shade. If the plant will be near a window be sure that direct sun will not fall on the leaves, especially at midday. Sheer curtains can help cut the light intensity to a level that won�t burn the plant. Another option is to grow the plant near a window with a northern exposure.

These plants tend to be very fast growers and will have a thirst to match. Water thoroughly at each watering then allow the potting mix to dry out fairly well. When the mix is dry about an inch down it is a good time to water again. Avoid over-watering. Fertilizer can be mixed with the water at half-strength and given every three to four weeks during the growing season of spring to fall. Use a fertilizer with balanced nutrition; it should contain both macro- and micronutrients. In the winter, omit fertilizer from the water and reduce the total amount of water given.

Typically, Swiss Cheese Plant is propagated by cuttings. It will root readily in water or in a light propagation medium. Cuttings can be transplanted when the roots are large enough to support the new plant. This can be estimated by observing the appearance of many fine root hairs and the beginning of new leaf growth.

Many insects find the Swiss Cheese Plant to be as delectable as the name sounds to us. Check the undersides of leaves and along stems regularly for spider mites, mealy bugs, scale and even aphids. Neem oil is an effective tool for safely eliminating pests.

Monsteras are members of the Arum family and so are toxic. These plants contain oxalic acid crystals which can cause skin irritation if broken sections of the plant are handled without gloves and can cause pain and swelling of the throat if it is ingested. The fruit is edible when ripe, but contains the oxalic acid until that time. The fruit is ripe when the green rind falls easily away when knocked.

#377

From: Bobby Ray <atruefriend@...>
Date: Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:30 pm
Subject: Re: Grow Food Scraps Indoors

hottubber.rm

Offline

Thanks for info on pinaples and avacados.

I have been told that avacados started from a seed never produce fruit that only grafted trees produce.

Is this true?� They said somehting about male and female trees and all trees from seeds are males.
I find that hard to believe but ...�� this person was working in an avacado orchard.

Huggs and my best wishes,
Bobby Ray

On Wed, Oct 14, 2009 at 4:15 PM, Estelle Demers <eadplantlady@...> wrote:

You can grow an indoor garden with kitchen scraps usually thrown onto the compost heap.

Garlic:
1. Plant a few garlic cloves with pointed tip facing up in a pot with loamy organic soil.

2. Place the pot on a sunny windowsill and water regularly like a houseplant.

3. Green garlicky shoots emerge in a week or so. Harvest with a scissors to using in cooking or as a tasty garnish for soups, salads and baked potatoes.

Green Onions:
1. Use green onions with healthy, white roots attached to the bulb. Snip off green tops for cooking with a scissors. Leave a little green top on the onion bulb.

2. Plant the entire onion while leaving the short top above ground in a small pot filled with a loamy, organic potting soil. Make sure your container has drainage holes. Put in a sunny windowsill and water once a week or when soil feels dry to the touch.

3. Harvest new green shoots with scissors to use for cooking or as a tasty garnish. Continue to leave the onion in the soil. With each new growth the onion will taste more potent. After each harvest of onion tops, dress the topsoil with organic compost. Enjoy green onion tops in stir-fries, omelets, and in sandwiches all winter long

Pineapple:
1. Indoor pineapple plants rarely produce flowers and fruit, but their striking foliage adds a touch of exotic to any houseplant collection. All you need to grow one is the green top you cut off when you eat the pineapple. For best results, use a pineapple that has fresh center leaves at the crown. Lob off the top, right where the crown meets the fruit. Peel off the bottom leaves and clean off the leftover fruit. Let the top rest a day before planting.

2. Fill a shallow pot with rich, loamy organic soil mixed with a few tablespoons of well-rinsed coffee grounds. Pineapple grows best in an acidic soil. Plant the pineapple top so the soil is even with the bottom of the crown.

3. Water well and mist the leaves and crown with a diluted, organic liquid fertilizer. As a member of the Bromeliaceae family, which also includes air plants, pineapple plants take much of their nourishment not from the soil but from nutrients in the moist air.

Avocado:
1. For best results use only a ripe avocado. Carefully halve the fruit and rinse the pit. Pat dry and let sit overnight in a warm, dry spot. The next day, peel off any of the parchment-like skin from the pit.

2. Place the pit with the base (the wider end) toward the bottom in a 7-inch pot full of loamy, rich organic soil. Make sure the tip is above the soil, exposed to light for proper germination. Water thoroughly.

3. If your apartment is dry, place a clear plastic cup over the exposed seed tip to serve as a mini-greenhouse. Though the plant does not need direct light to germinate, placing the pot on a sunny windowsill will speed growth.

4. Continue to water every week and make sure the soil doesn't dry out completely. The pit may take over a month to germinate so be patient.

5. When the sprout emerges and grows to about 4 inches, add another layer of organic soil to cover the pit completely. This not only protects the seed, but also any roots that may poke through the soil in search of nourishment.

6. Once the plant starts growing, it may remind you of the story "Jack and the Beanstalk." You can watch the plant grow tall for a year (supported with a wooden rod) and let it branch on its own, or make a decision to prune it and force it to branch, making a sturdier plant. If you choose to prune, it's best to trim with a diagonal cut 2 inches from the top. Be careful as you prune not to cut the main stem more than 1/3 of its height.

7. Continue to add organic compost to fertilize the soil with each pruning and water as you would a houseplant. Only repot the fast-growing plant when it is 6 times taller than the diameter of the pot.

8. Though avocado plants do not bear fruit if grown indoors, you can plant multiple avocado pits at various times in the same pot for a more interesting arrangement.

#376

From: "Estelle Demers" <eadplantlady@...>
Date: Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:15 pm
Subject: Grow Food Scraps Indoors

quirrell2

Offline

You can grow an indoor garden with kitchen scraps usually thrown onto the compost heap.

Garlic:
1. Plant a few garlic cloves with pointed tip facing up in a pot with loamy organic soil.

2. Place the pot on a sunny windowsill and water regularly like a houseplant.

3. Green garlicky shoots emerge in a week or so. Harvest with a scissors to using in cooking or as a tasty garnish for soups, salads and baked potatoes.

Green Onions:
1. Use green onions with healthy, white roots attached to the bulb. Snip off green tops for cooking with a scissors. Leave a little green top on the onion bulb.

2. Plant the entire onion while leaving the short top above ground in a small pot filled with a loamy, organic potting soil. Make sure your container has drainage holes. Put in a sunny windowsill and water once a week or when soil feels dry to the touch.

3. Harvest new green shoots with scissors to use for cooking or as a tasty garnish. Continue to leave the onion in the soil. With each new growth the onion will taste more potent. After each harvest of onion tops, dress the topsoil with organic compost. Enjoy green onion tops in stir-fries, omelets, and in sandwiches all winter long

Pineapple:
1. Indoor pineapple plants rarely produce flowers and fruit, but their striking foliage adds a touch of exotic to any houseplant collection. All you need to grow one is the green top you cut off when you eat the pineapple. For best results, use a pineapple that has fresh center leaves at the crown. Lob off the top, right where the crown meets the fruit. Peel off the bottom leaves and clean off the leftover fruit. Let the top rest a day before planting.

2. Fill a shallow pot with rich, loamy organic soil mixed with a few tablespoons of well-rinsed coffee grounds. Pineapple grows best in an acidic soil. Plant the pineapple top so the soil is even with the bottom of the crown.

3. Water well and mist the leaves and crown with a diluted, organic liquid fertilizer. As a member of the Bromeliaceae family, which also includes air plants, pineapple plants take much of their nourishment not from the soil but from nutrients in the moist air.

Avocado:
1. For best results use only a ripe avocado. Carefully halve the fruit and rinse the pit. Pat dry and let sit overnight in a warm, dry spot. The next day, peel off any of the parchment-like skin from the pit.

2. Place the pit with the base (the wider end) toward the bottom in a 7-inch pot full of loamy, rich organic soil. Make sure the tip is above the soil, exposed to light for proper germination. Water thoroughly.

3. If your apartment is dry, place a clear plastic cup over the exposed seed tip to serve as a mini-greenhouse. Though the plant does not need direct light to germinate, placing the pot on a sunny windowsill will speed growth.

4. Continue to water every week and make sure the soil doesn't dry out completely. The pit may take over a month to germinate so be patient.

5. When the sprout emerges and grows to about 4 inches, add another layer of organic soil to cover the pit completely. This not only protects the seed, but also any roots that may poke through the soil in search of nourishment.

6. Once the plant starts growing, it may remind you of the story "Jack and the Beanstalk." You can watch the plant grow tall for a year (supported with a wooden rod) and let it branch on its own, or make a decision to prune it and force it to branch, making a sturdier plant. If you choose to prune, it's best to trim with a diagonal cut 2 inches from the top. Be careful as you prune not to cut the main stem more than 1/3 of its height.

7. Continue to add organic compost to fertilize the soil with each pruning and water as you would a houseplant. Only repot the fast-growing plant when it is 6 times taller than the diameter of the pot.

8. Though avocado plants do not bear fruit if grown indoors, you can plant multiple avocado pits at various times in the same pot for a more interesting arrangement.

#375

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Fri Oct 9, 2009 2:07 am
Subject: How to Dry Herbs

oldmugglelady

Offline

How to Dry Herbs

Drying Your Herbs.

When chopped or ground, the leaves and seeds of fresh herbs release their oils and make food tastier. If dried at the right temperatures and stored effectively, herbs can continue their flavoring for as long as a year.

The best time to harvest herbs for drying is just before the flowers first open (the bursting bud stage), according to Carolyn Raab, food and nutrition specialist with Oregon State University Extension Service.

"Gather herbs in the early morning, after the dew has evaporated to minimize wilting," she said. "Label them when you pick them, because after drying many look alike. Rinse the herbs in cool water and gently shake to remove excess moisture. Discard bruised, soiled or imperfect leaves and stems."

You can dry herbs with a dehydrator or microwave, or air drying works for hardy herbs such as sage, thyme, rosemary, summer savory and parsley. It's important to keep the temperature below 100 degrees because high temperatures cause flavor loss.

Here are a few guidelines for different methods:

Dehydrator: Herbs dry quickly in a dehydrator and will produce high quality herbs. Place them on the trays and cover with a fine screen to catch dried leaves that fall from the stems. Preheat the dehydrator to 90 to 100 degrees. Dry one to three hours or until the herbs are dry and crumble easily.
Microwave: Microwave ovens are a fast way to dry herbs, but dry no more than one to two cups at a time. Place herbs in a single layer between two sheets of plain white paper towels; recycled towels often contain metal scraps that can arc and catch on fire. Check manuals for recommended times for drying herbs and OSU Extension publication SP 50-921, Drying Herbs, for a general guide for drying. Stir the herbs every 30 seconds after the first minute until almost dry, and then let them finish drying at room temperature. Herbs commonly dried in the microwave are parsley, celery leaves, chives, thyme and sage.
Air Drying: Sturdier herbs are the easiest to dry and can be tied in small bundles and air dried indoors for best color and flavor. Tender leaf herbs � basil, tarragon, lemon balm and the mints � are high in moisture and should be tied together in small bunches and hung inside a paper bag with cut vent holes. Close the top with a rubber band and place where air currents will circulate, such as an attic, kitchen or other warm location. The herbs with leaves, such as bay, mint and sage, can be placed on paper towels on a tray to dry in about five to 10 days. Sun drying is not recommended.

Herbs are dry when they crumble easily and brittle stems break when bent; leaves and seeds should fall from the stems. To store them, place dried herbs in an airtight container and keep in a cool, dark, dry location for optimum flavor and color. Use them within six months to a year. Whole seeds and leaves have the longest shelf life. For the fullest flavor crush or grind just before using.

#374

From: "Estelle Demers" <eadplantlady@...>
Date: Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:47 pm
Subject: Saving and Sowing Impatiens Seeds

quirrell2

Offline

Q&A: Saving and Sowing Impatiens Seeds

Question: For years, my family has grown impatiens that we purchase in flats. Every year the plants develop seed pods. Can save the seed and start my own seedlings the next spring?

Answer: Impatiens can be a little tricky, and time-consuming, to start from seeds. Here are some tips for success.

Because the seeds are ejected from the seedpods when ripe, tie a tiny bag over the seed head as it starts to mature. Once the seeds have been ejected, remove the bag. You can store the seeds in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for a few months. However, small seeds like impatiens don't always store well for long periods.

Plan to sow the seeds about 12 weeks before your last frost date in the spring. Impatiens seeds will take anywhere from 7 to 30 days to germinate at temperatures of 70F -75F. Once germinated, they take 10 weeks or more to reach flowering stage.

The seeds need light, high humidity and warm temperatures to germinate. Sow impatiens seeds on the surface of moistened seed starting mix and barely press in with your hand. Cover trays with plastic wrap or clear greenhouse domes to help retain moisture, and place in a warm area such as on top of the refrigerator (or on greenhouse propagating mats). Remove the plastic as soon as the seeds sprout and place the seedlings under a source of artificial light. Water the seedlings from the bottom and provide good air circulation around the plants to help avoid damping-off disease.

#373

From: "Estelle Demers" <eadplantlady@...>
Date: Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:46 pm
Subject: Bathtub Water Garden

quirrell2

Offline

Q&A: Bathtub Water Garden

Question: We have an old white bathtub we'd like to use as a pond or water garden. Can it stay white, or does it need to be painted black? How will the water plants do?

Answer: If you plan to sink the tub into the ground, it should serve quite well as a pond. If it's above ground, consider it a warm-season garden ornament because the water will freeze hard during the winter and kill your plants. The tub can stay white, but expect it to turn green with algae growth within a year. Pond liners are black because they fool the eye into thinking the water is much deeper than it really is. It's an aesthetic thing, rather than a functional thing. Most any water plants will do okay in your tub, but some aquatic plants require a water depth of four or more feet in order to grow well, and to be able to winter over. A layer of ice on the top of the pond in winter won't hurt plant roots that are several feet below the surface, but a shallow pond will freeze completely and may kill the plants. Enjoy!

#372

From: "Estelle Demers" <eadplantlady@...>
Date: Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:43 pm
Subject: Feature Plant

quirrell2

Offline

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Plant type: Herb, Interior Plant, Shrub

USDA Hardiness Zones: 6a to 9a

Height: 24" to 48"

Spread: 12" to 24"

Exposure: partial shade partial sun to full sun

Bloom Color: Blue

Bloom Time: Early summer, Late summer, Late spring, Late winter, Mid summer, Mid spring

Leaf Color: Green, Silvery

Growth Rate: average

Moisture: dry to moist

Soil Condition: Adaptable, Loamy, Sandy, Well drained

Form: Rounded

Landscape Uses:

Border, Container, Ground cover, Seashore

Special Features:

Edible, Fragrant foliage, Not North American native, Attracts butterflies, Suitable for dried flowers, Fragrant flowers

#371

From: "Ursula Demers" <ursulademers@...>
Date: Wed Sep 9, 2009 11:24 pm
Subject: Container Gardening for Windy Areas

oldmugglelady

Offline

Container Gardening for Windy Areas

There are many ways to design a container garden to withstand wind. A few examples are to build wind slowing or blocking structures, to grow wind-tolerant trees, vines or shrubs to slow the wind, to grow wind tolerant plants, or to utilize any combination of these.

Wind Slowing and Blocking Structures
Building a wall or fine lattice structure to block or filter the wind may be the solution you need for your garden. If you don't want to block a beautiful view, tempered glass panels are an excellent choice.
Whatever you build, be sure it is well anchored and braced, and will withstand the strongest winds your garden may experience. This is especially important if your garden is on a balcony � you wouldn't want your windbreak to become a kite, potentially injuring those below.

If your winds are not too severe, a lattice structure may be all you need to slow and filter the wind for your garden. These can be built as stand-alone decorative structures, or as a framework for a climbing vine or espalier. Make sure to anchor the lattice to a wall and floor, or to a heavy planter which is securely attached to the ground or a wall. Remember that your structure will take the brunt force of the wind, and you wouldn't want it to be pushed across your deck or patio, destroying your garden along the way.

Trees, Shrubs, or Vines as a Windbreak
An alternative to building a wind-break structure is to grow wind-tolerant plants to slow the wind. Several trees and shrubs ideally suited for container growing also serve as excellent wind-breaks, tolerating and slowing the wind for more delicate plants down-wind. Vines can also be trained up a sturdy, well-anchored trellis structure to break the wind.

Suggested trees (depending on your climate): Acacia (shorter varieties), Arbutus (shorter varieties), Birch, Flowering Crabapple, tree Junipers, Melaleuca, Texas (Honey) Mesquite, Palms, Pittosporum, Tamarisk, Pussy Willow (can be shrub or small tree)

Suggested Shrubs (depending on your climate): Bamboo, Barberry, Bayberry, Boxwood, Bottlebrush, Ceanothus, Cinquefoil, Cotoneaster, False Cyprus, Euryops, Shrub Junipers, Bush Lupine (Lupinus arboreaus), Tree Mallow, Manzanita, Pacific Wax Myrtle, Rockrose (Cystus), Rosemary, Russian Olive, Common Privet, Tea Tree (leptospermum), Pussy Willow (can be shrub or small tree), Yew (these will grow to tree height, but over many years)

Suggested Vines (depending on your climate): Bougainvilla, Mattress Vine (Muehlenbeckia complexa), Cape Honeysuckle

Note: when planting your tree, shrub, or vine, anchor it well in its container. Wooden containers are ideally suited for this, where you can tie-off strong cords or cables to three or more strong branches on your plant, and anchor them with eye bolts to the inside of the container.

Wind Tolerant Plants
Most of the plants of the succulent or cactus type are well-suited to a windy garden. Low-lying woody plants will also hold up well to regular winds.

Suggested plants for a windy garden (depending on your climate): Agapanthus, Agave, Aloe, Beach Aster, Wild Buckwheat, Daylily, Flax, California Fuchsia, Geranium, Jade Plant, Jerusalem Sage (Phlomis), Lantana, Marguerite Daisy, Red-Hot Poker, Sage (Salvia), Sedge (Carex), Yucca

#370

From: "Joye DeLoach" <moonladyred@...>
Date: Mon Aug 10, 2009 11:42 am
Subject: Thanks everyone!!

moonladyred

Offline

Hey,you guys are great!Never really expected such a response!Thank you so much
for the great info and ideas...I know this container gardening is going to be a
great experience for me.I am going to wait until fall to plant for winter...am
collecting containers...and getting all my data ready.
  Big hugs to you all...joye

#369

From: Renaissance Pacific <renpacific86@...>
Date: Sat Aug 8, 2009 6:29 pm
Subject: RE: Newbie here!

renpacific86

Offline

CChoice_PCard_Tomato01.pdf

Attached is your BEST FRIEND - COMPANION for growing tomatoes and other veggies. See: www.cocochoice.com

--- On Sat, 8/8/09, Peggy Davies <peggydavies@...> wrote:

From: Peggy Davies <peggydavies@...>
Subject: RE: [UnbelievableContainerGardening] Newbie here!
To: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 8, 2009, 11:39 AM

Hi Joye:

This summer I am growing peppers, tomatoes, basil, parsley, lettuce and rosemary all in containers on my deck. I used to have a large in the ground garden but for the past several years we have been plagued by animals eating our crops. We have tons of deer, rabbits, woodchucks, chipmunks, raccoons and squirrels eating everything we plant. Sometimes the squirrels even come up on the deck and steal the red tomatoes. A few years ago I never had a problem with squirrels eating tomatoes, but for the past three years, I have seen them doing this.

I put zucchini plants in the ground this year, but for the first time ever some animal is eating the leaves.

I especially have had great luck with peppers in containers.

As far as growing things in the house in the winter, I have only had luck with herbs and maybe lettuce.

Peggy in Massachusetts

From: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ms Lynn Myers
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 10:53 AM
To: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [UnbelievableContainerGardening] Newbie here!

Hi Joye. Tomatoes will grow in containers (I prefer using the cherry variety...I had better luck with those ones). You could also try strawberries, (I did that this year) and also there is a hanging variety that is able to come into the house for year round strawverries. Peas, or beans would work as well. Good luck.

Linda

--- On Wed, 8/5/09, Joye DeLoach <moonladyred@...> wrote:

From: Joye DeLoach <moonladyred@...>
Subject: [UnbelievableContainerGardening] Newbie here!
To: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 7:05 AM

Hi..I'm Joye and since I am disabled and can't handle a regular garden I hope to have a container garden.I have always planted things in unusual places anyway...I remember this huge stump where I planted 1 acre sedum in the hollowed out middle...it flourished!
I am mostly interested in vegetable gardening now as I am on a diet and the price of veggies has skyrocketed! Would like to be able to grow some of my own.Hope to put in some leaf lettuce this fall for salads.What else would be good fpr a winter crop in a container?
Big hugs to you..Joye

The new Internet Explorer� 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free!

1 of 1 File(s)

#368

From: "Peggy Davies" <peggydavies@...>
Date: Sat Aug 8, 2009 4:39 pm
Subject: RE: Newbie here!

peggydwd

Offline

Hi Joye:

This summer I am growing peppers, tomatoes, basil, parsley, lettuce and rosemary all in containers on my deck. I used to have a large in the ground garden but for the past several years we have been plagued by animals eating our crops. We have tons of deer, rabbits, woodchucks, chipmunks, raccoons and squirrels eating everything we plant. Sometimes the squirrels even come up on the deck and steal the red tomatoes. A few years ago I never had a problem with squirrels eating tomatoes, but for the past three years, I have seen them doing this.

I put zucchini plants in the ground this year, but for the first time ever some animal is eating the leaves.

I especially have had great luck with peppers in containers.

As far as growing things in the house in the winter, I have only had luck with herbs and maybe lettuce.

Peggy in Massachusetts

From: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com [mailto:UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ms Lynn Myers
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 10:53 AM
To: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [UnbelievableContainerGardening] Newbie here!

Hi Joye. Tomatoes will grow in containers (I prefer using the cherry variety...I had better luck with those ones). You could also try strawberries, (I did that this year) and also there is a hanging variety that is able to come into the house for year round strawverries. Peas, or beans would work as well. Good luck.

Linda

--- On Wed, 8/5/09, Joye DeLoach <moonladyred@...> wrote:

From: Joye DeLoach <moonladyred@...>
Subject: [UnbelievableContainerGardening] Newbie here!
To: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 7:05 AM

Hi..I'm Joye and since I am disabled and can't handle a regular garden I hope to have a container garden.I have always planted things in unusual places anyway...I remember this huge stump where I planted 1 acre sedum in the hollowed out middle...it flourished!
I am mostly interested in vegetable gardening now as I am on a diet and the price of veggies has skyrocketed! Would like to be able to grow some of my own.Hope to put in some leaf lettuce this fall for salads.What else would be good fpr a winter crop in a container?
Big hugs to you..Joye

The new Internet Explorer® 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free!

#367

From: Ms Lynn Myers <ljmyers2000@...>
Date: Fri Aug 7, 2009 2:52 pm
Subject: Re: Newbie here!

ljmyers2000

Offline

Linda

--- On Wed, 8/5/09, Joye DeLoach <moonladyred@...> wrote:

From: Joye DeLoach <moonladyred@...>
Subject: [UnbelievableContainerGardening] Newbie here!
To: UnbelievableContainerGardening@yahoogroups.com
Received: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 7:05 AM

Hi..I'm Joye and since I am disabled and can't handle a regular garden I hope to have a container garden.I have always planted things in unusual places anyway...I remember this huge stump where I planted 1 acre sedum in the hollowed out middle...it flourished!
I am mostly interested in vegetable gardening now as I am on a diet and the price of veggies has skyrocketed! Would like to be able to grow some of my own.Hope to put in some leaf lettuce this fall for salads.What else would be good fpr a winter crop in a container?
Big hugs to you..Joye

The new Internet Explorer� 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free!

#366

From: marcia clark <mclark93755@...>
Date: Wed Aug 5, 2009 6:17 pm
Subject: Re: Newbie here!

mclark93755

Offline

Hi Joye,
I would say, spinach.  I am going to do that.  I am also thinking about swiss
chard.  They have long roots though, so be careful.  It may be better in the
ground.
love and hugs,
Marcia

#365

From: A Lovatto <hortus111@...>
Date: Wed Aug 5, 2009 11:51 am
Subject: Re: Newbie here!

hortus111

Offline

Welcome, Joye, I'm sorry I can't help you with the veggie info. All of my containers are non-edible.

Nita, gardener and grandma extraordinaire

---