hi,

i have an extra 3MT:3c collet closer sleave to swap for 3MT:3at
collet closer sleave, even trade. any interest ? email@
DracoDruid@....

R. Helm

TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
You do this yourself by sending a message to:
atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/

To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/

Hi Folks in the groups taigtools, sherline, Metal_Shapers,
atlas618lathe, and atlas_craftsman.

Just to let you know that my personal website has had its
80 metalworking textfiles updated since I took the summer off.
Many new or interesting tips/comments were added to
the files, that now exceed 6.5 MB.

While I was out of town, my web provider rearranged servers
and changed the private page addresses to "my" instead of "www"
so you might want to update your bookmarks for
http://my.tbaytel.net/jstudio/

Craig Libuse at Sherline http://www.sherline.com/ and
Nick Carter http://www.cartertools.com/  updated their links to
my page quickly and I am grateful to their staying on top of
all links helpful to the hobby.

It is obvious from some of the questions posed to the groups
that newcomers are not reading the groups' archives (which
admittedly is really hard to do with all the ads there). Hopefully
the commercial-free Machining and Metalworking at Home
site http://my.tbaytel.net/jstudio/ is a lot easier to read for
many subjects. Not a FAQ, but still very useful. And the linked
sites are even better at answering many questions.

A problem noticed during reading mail from the groups here
is the sometimes excessive quoting of earlier messages in replies.
We really don't have to quote the complete text of eleventeen
earlier messages on a question. A brief extract of a very few lines,
from one or two earlier messages, is enough to jog the
reader's mind as to the subject we are answering. Quoting
brevity is very much appreciated if you read many
groups' digests daily, with hundreds of messages total.

And thank you all for helping newcomers and each other, and
providing incredibly good information for the hobby. That
support is even more appreciated by those who have no clubs or
fellow hobbiests nearby.

Steve    --   in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada

Steve,

Glad to see your site is back up.  I tried to access it awhile back and wasn't
able to.  Thought that maybe you had decided to close it down........happy to
see I was wrong.

Best regards,

Rodger

S or J <jstudio@...> wrote:
Hi Folks in the groups taigtools, sherline, Metal_Shapers,
atlas618lathe, and atlas_craftsman.

Just to let you know that my personal website has had its
80 metalworking textfiles updated since I took the summer off.
Many new or interesting tips/comments were added to
the files, that now exceed 6.5 MB.




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

piggy wrote:

>well shucks jon , i should read better eh ?
>my chucks take a square tool not a hex lol
>
>
Right, most metalworking chucks have used square keys for
the last hundred years or so!  But, then there's an odd one.
Or, it could be a woodworking chuck.

Jon

I need the levers from a 1500 QC Gearbox, part numbers are 10-1586
(both the same).  Thought someone here might have a lead on this.
Plan to try Sobell's. Any other sources other than Clausing?

John

I just finished dis-assemblng my Atlas 6x24.  What should I use to
grease/lubricate the gears as I put it back together?

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Jon Elson <elson@p...> wrote:
> Right, most metalworking chucks have used square keys for
> the last hundred years or so!  But, then there's an odd one.
> Or, it could be a woodworking chuck.
>
> Jon

It sounds like the same 8" 4-jaw that came with my Atlas.  Chuck by
Atlas as well I presumed, though it's not prominently labeled.  The
jaw screws look like oversized, flat-nosed, set screws and travel
with the jaws and they do indeed have a female 7/16" hex for jaw
movement.  The screws are hardened, possibly cased.  I didn't get any
wrench for them with the lathe so I don't know what the original
would have been like.  Definitely a metal-working style chuck.

I haven't dated it, but the lathe was purchased by the original owner
in the early to mid 40's.  Its 3-jaw universal is that little 5" with
the tightening ring and tommy bar holes if that places it.

Jan M.

How about using a allen wrench , as they are available for what ever size .
easy to fab a handle or what ever   Chris


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

How about a hex key/socket for a 3/8" drive ratchet?  They are available
from Sears and probably Snap-On.  I would be surprised if you couldn't find
a whole set at Harbor Freight, really cheep.

Ron...
~ ~ ~  Always remember:
A positive attitude may not solve all your problems,
but it will annoy enough people to make it worth
the effort.
                                                       Herm Albright
----- Original Message -----
From: <cmiller231@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: need to make a lathe hex key


| How about using a allen wrench , as they are available for what ever size
.
| easy to fab a handle or what ever   Chris
|
|
| [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
|
| TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
| You do this yourself by sending a message to:
| atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
|
| To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|

Bought my 4-jaw chuck from Sears when I bought my 6" A/C in 1955. It has
a hex chuck key.

Leo (pearland, tx)

Yes, this is an 8 inch 4 Jaw chuck, as others have described it, a
real monster. Appears OEM but no visible markings to be sure.

Surprisingly a 7/16 hex key is not readily avail, around here. And to
buy one from Enco or MSC wanted me to buy the whole box. But I have a
solution... I found a pin punch at a pawn shop in 7/16 hex that had
the head slightly expanded. Filed it down for a perfect fit. Cost me
a buck! I will cut the pin part off and fit a cross bar and all will
be as it should be...  Thanks for the ideas, guys!!!

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, dswr@w... wrote:
> Bought my 4-jaw chuck from Sears when I bought my 6" A/C in 1955.
It has
> a hex chuck key.
>
> Leo (pearland, tx)

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "John Williams"
<jswillms@a...> wrote:
>
> Surprisingly a 7/16 hex key is not readily avail, around here. And
to
> buy one from Enco or MSC wanted me to buy the whole box. But I have
a
> solution...

McMaster Carr has 7/16" hex keys as part number 7122A27 short arm,
7122A53 long arm, or 53855A21 for heat treated stainless (single
units).  www.mcmaster.com

Or try J&L Industrial for part number EKL-18228C for the Eklind Ball-
Hex, also single units.  www.jlindustrial.com

If you can file and drill what you have, except by using carbide, it
won't resist wear as well.  But, the price was right - McMaster Carr
wants $2.32.

jm

Hi to the group,
      Please excuse what might be a very basic question. My first
project on my Craftsman 101.07301 is to cut a new tailstock center.
(The current center is pretty nasty.) Am using Lindsay reprints of
South Bend books for instructions and simple projects to teach myself
this craft.
      In the instructions to face the ends of the stock on centers,
there is a footnote: "A relieved center would simplify the facing
operation."
      I can't find any other reference to a "relieved" center, so I
thought I'd get a definition from your collective knowledge.

Thanks so much for your help,
Joe

P.S. I found instructions in another book to face the ends using the
3-jaw chuck, so I did that before turning the piece on centers. :-)

Joe,
   You didn't state how much experence you have had, so I hope I'm not out of
line with this suggestion. BUY a new dead center to start with. You'll going to
have your hands full just learning how to grind cutters, figure RPM's and feed
rates to start. Dead centers are very inexpensive and cutting tapers and
achiving a good enough finish to use may be a bit frustrating for a first job.
Is for me anyway.
   "relieved" center no idea other than drilled, but I'm a newbe too.
                                      Larry

Hey guys, having a bit of a brain fart.

Sitting sown, ready to cut a left hand internal acme thread.
Is there a way to do this so I can feed from the right to
the left?

  Something about running the spindle in reverse and mounting
the cutter upsideown, or rightsideup and cut the far side of the
hole ??

Anyone?

I'm scared :)
-Damon

I just put a tailstock for a 10" on eBay.  It is missing the little
handle on the handwheel and the spindle locknut, but has very tight
movement.  I priced it cheap because of the missing pieces.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2555602249

Thanks,
Wally

The business end of a relieved center is cut away on the center line
(i.e. cut in half along the axis).   It works for facing cuts, since it
doesn't carry a lot of load,  but not very well for cuts on the
circumference since the center becomes a reamer with much side pressure.


Charles


HUNLEY31@... wrote:

> Joe,
>  You didn't state how much experence you have had, so I hope I'm not out of
line with this suggestion. BUY a new dead center to start with. You'll going to
have your hands full just learning how to grind cutters, figure RPM's and feed
rates to start. Dead centers are very inexpensive and cutting tapers and
achiving a good enough finish to use may be a bit frustrating for a first job.
Is for me anyway.
>  "relieved" center no idea other than drilled, but I'm a newbe too.
>                                     Larry
>
>TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
>You do this yourself by sending a message to:
>atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
>To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>

WAG here.  Relieved, I'll bet, means there's two cylindrical surfaces on the
center, one just behind the point, and the other at the end of the taper.
Mert

MertBaker@...
----- Original Message -----
From: <HUNLEY31@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Newbie question


> Joe,
>   You didn't state how much experence you have had, so I hope I'm not out
of line with this suggestion. BUY a new dead center to start with. You'll
going to have your hands full just learning how to grind cutters, figure
RPM's and feed rates to start. Dead centers are very inexpensive and cutting
tapers and achiving a good enough finish to use may be a bit frustrating for
a first job. Is for me anyway.
>   "relieved" center no idea other than drilled, but I'm a newbe too.
>                                      Larry
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

Charles,
   DUH, I knew that!
                 Larry

Hi Joe,

A relieved center is one with 50 percent of the tip ground away.  This
allows the cutter to access the center drilled face.  It isn't the
center hole in the work, but the center mounted in the tailstock ram
that is "relieved".

A protected center on the other hand is a center hole in the workpiece
that is places in a relieved area on the end.  Commonly used where you
want the center hole to remain in good condition for subsequent
remounting of the work at some later date.  A common place to see these
is on the cylindrical squares or other precision tooling that may
require maintainance grinding after a few years work.

Now for a gentle discouragement:

MT2 dead centers are quite inexpensive.  Purchased centers from a good
manufacturer (Bison or better) will be well ground, precise, and
correctly hardened.  You can also get carbide tipped dead centers for
not much increase in price.  Making centers is fiddly work.  Making a
headstock center isn't too bad, as the center doesn't have to be
hardened.  A tailstock center needs to be hardened, so you make the
entire thing a tad oversized (a few thou), heat treat, then grind the MT
taper.  Mount the ground taper in a MT2 to MT3 sleeve in the headstock
and grind the 60 degree working end.

Skoda live centers are quite affordable in MT2 sizes, and do very nicely
for 95 percent of the work in the small shop.  Dead centers are really
only required for critically accurate work, when you really are chasing
much better than a thou.

Why the instructions want you to face the work between centers in a
mystery to me, I'd do it in a collet chuck, three jaw, or whatever chuck
is handy.  Drill the center hole after facing so you can use tailstock
support while turning the MT taper.  Turning between centers is the most
precise means of work in many cases, but is nowhere near as prevelant as
in older times.  In the early 1900's a faceplate, or a drive plate and
drive dog where often the only options.  The widespead availability of
three and four jaw chucks make turning between centers a special method
reserved for the occasions when the hassle was justified by the
requirements.

If you need to make specialty centers, consider using a MT2 end mill
holder.  I use 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch ones with bits of drill rod
installed that have been cut and hardened for the job on the rare
occasions such stuff is required - which is quite rare.  Final grinding
is done with the EM holder in a MT2 - MT3 sleeve in the headstock with
the hardened drill rod insert in place.  Once the drill rod "point" is
removed, it has to be reground in the headstock each time it is
remounted for ultimate accuracy.  Not required when being within half a
thou or so is sufficient, but critical is chasing tenths.

For certain tasks, you can also use bits of bronze or brass ron in an
end mill holder.  Turning armatures in one example, as most of us aren't
lucky enough to have the brass jawed Jacobs chuck made for this task.

Cheers,
Stan



Joe Shaughnessy wrote:
> Hi to the group,
>      Please excuse what might be a very basic question. My first
> project on my Craftsman 101.07301 is to cut a new tailstock center.
> (The current center is pretty nasty.) Am using Lindsay reprints of
> South Bend books for instructions and simple projects to teach myself
> this craft.
>      In the instructions to face the ends of the stock on centers,
> there is a footnote: "A relieved center would simplify the facing
> operation."
>      I can't find any other reference to a "relieved" center, so I
> thought I'd get a definition from your collective knowledge.
>
> Thanks so much for your help,
> Joe
>
> P.S. I found instructions in another book to face the ends using the
> 3-jaw chuck, so I did that before turning the piece on centers. :-)

Stan:

A big thank you from another newbie. Comprehensive, succinct, to the point and
enormousle helpful with a ring of long experience about it.  Thanx again.
Sam

Stan Stocker <skstocker@...> wrote:
Hi Joe,

A relieved center is one with 50 percent of the tip ground away. This
allows the cutter to access the center drilled face. It isn't the
center hole in the work, but the center mounted in the tailstock ram
that is "relieved".

A protected center on the other hand is a center hole in the workpiece
that is places in a relieved area on the end. Commonly used where you
want the center hole to remain in good condition for subsequent
remounting of the work at some later date. A common place to see these
is on the cylindrical squares or other precision tooling that may
require maintainance grinding after a few years work.

Now for a gentle discouragement:

MT2 dead centers are quite inexpensive. Purchased centers from a good
manufacturer (Bison or better) will be well ground, precise, and
correctly hardened. You can also get carbide tipped dead centers for
not much increase in price. Making centers is fiddly work. Making a
headstock center isn't too bad, as the center doesn't have to be
hardened. A tailstock center needs to be hardened, so you make the
entire thing a tad oversized (a few thou), heat treat, then grind the MT
taper. Mount the ground taper in a MT2 to MT3 sleeve in the headstock
and grind the 60 degree working end.

Skoda live centers are quite affordable in MT2 sizes, and do very nicely
for 95 percent of the work in the small shop. Dead centers are really
only required for critically accurate work, when you really are chasing
much better than a thou.

Why the instructions want you to face the work between centers in a
mystery to me, I'd do it in a collet chuck, three jaw, or whatever chuck
is handy. Drill the center hole after facing so you can use tailstock
support while turning the MT taper. Turning between centers is the most
precise means of work in many cases, but is nowhere near as prevelant as
in older times. In the early 1900's a faceplate, or a drive plate and
drive dog where often the only options. The widespead availability of
three and four jaw chucks make turning between centers a special method
reserved for the occasions when the hassle was justified by the
requirements.

If you need to make specialty centers, consider using a MT2 end mill
holder. I use 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch ones with bits of drill rod
installed that have been cut and hardened for the job on the rare
occasions such stuff is required - which is quite rare. Final grinding
is done with the EM holder in a MT2 - MT3 sleeve in the headstock with
the hardened drill rod insert in place. Once the drill rod "point" is
removed, it has to be reground in the headstock each time it is
remounted for ultimate accuracy. Not required when being within half a
thou or so is sufficient, but critical is chasing tenths.

For certain tasks, you can also use bits of bronze or brass ron in an
end mill holder. Turning armatures in one example, as most of us aren't
lucky enough to have the brass jawed Jacobs chuck made for this task.

Cheers,
Stan



Joe Shaughnessy wrote:
> Hi to the group,
> Please excuse what might be a very basic question. My first
> project on my Craftsman 101.07301 is to cut a new tailstock center.
> (The current center is pretty nasty.) Am using Lindsay reprints of
> South Bend books for instructions and simple projects to teach myself
> this craft.
> In the instructions to face the ends of the stock on centers,
> there is a footnote: "A relieved center would simplify the facing
> operation."
> I can't find any other reference to a "relieved" center, so I
> thought I'd get a definition from your collective knowledge.
>
> Thanks so much for your help,
> Joe
>
> P.S. I found instructions in another book to face the ends using the
> 3-jaw chuck, so I did that before turning the piece on centers. :-)


TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
You do this yourself by sending a message to:
atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/

To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/





---------------------------------
Post your free ad now! Yahoo! Canada Personals


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "Damon" <dgentile@s...> wrote:
>
> Hey guys, having a bit of a brain fart.
>
> Sitting sown, ready to cut a left hand internal acme thread.
> Is there a way to do this so I can feed from the right to
> the left?
>
>  Something about running the spindle in reverse and mounting
> the cutter upsideown, or rightsideup and cut the far side of the
> hole ??
>
> Anyone?
>
> I'm scared :)
> -Damon

  Beware when running spindle in reverse as chuck want's to unwind off
spindle.
     Use slowest speed possible.
   I would start just like RH thread BUT WITH LEADSCREW ROTATING TO
GIVE TRAVEL FROM LEFT TO RIGHT  eg; LH thread.

   One thing different is you need to put your right hand around the
hand wheel to preload it in opposite direction while tool is cutting.
  As you are cutting on opposite side and cutting forces and direction
of tool/saddle travel are oppisite each other.
  I have cut lots of LH threads and it always works.

     Regards  Graeme

Hi Stan,
      Thanks so much for your answer. You and Charles provided great
descriptions and it makes a lot of sense. Figured out the tailstock
setover and turned the taper for MT1 between centers. (It measures
damn close and fits the tailstock with no wiggle, or binding.) I will
be ordering some extra parts as I can see that some things would
definitely be considered comsumables. I learned a lot in this
exercise.
       Think I'll have to stop by the local trade colleges and find
some more current project examples. Most of the Lindsay books I've
purchased are reprints of pre WWII articles. They're basic and
simple, and that works for me right now.
       Thanks again for your wisdom, a lot of things just aren't
covered in books.

Laterdays,
Joe

If one has the TS set over for MTs, a smart operator will turn several, so
as to have one handy when the TS is back where it belongs.  This advice is
gratuitous, as I did the setover only the one time I had to do it in shop
class, and have used the compound to do this ever since, and many times.
Mert

MertBaker@...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Shaughnessy" <squiggi@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:10 AM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Newbie question


> Hi Stan,
>      Thanks so much for your answer. You and Charles provided great
> descriptions and it makes a lot of sense. Figured out the tailstock
> setover and turned the taper for MT1 between centers. (It measures
> damn close and fits the tailstock with no wiggle, or binding.) I will
> be ordering some extra parts as I can see that some things would
> definitely be considered comsumables. I learned a lot in this
> exercise.
>       Think I'll have to stop by the local trade colleges and find
> some more current project examples. Most of the Lindsay books I've
> purchased are reprints of pre WWII articles. They're basic and
> simple, and that works for me right now.
>       Thanks again for your wisdom, a lot of things just aren't
> covered in books.
>
> Laterdays,
> Joe
>
>
>
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

You can also put a witness mark on the tailstock base to make it easier
to set up next time.    I agree dead centers are easier to buy, but the
skills employed to make one are worth the effort.  After sixteen years
in this hobby, tapers are still my most dreaded task.   Dead centers are
cheap to buy, but MT2 collets, tailstock die holders, pipe centers etc
are not cheap, so dead centers are great practice.   I think the ready
availability of cheap tooling (relative) these days can complicate
building basic skills in the shop.   I think the Gingery guys are on to
something.

Charles

mertbaker wrote:

>If one has the TS set over for MTs, a smart operator will turn several, so
>as to have one handy when the TS is back where it belongs.  This advice is
>gratuitous, as I did the setover only the one time I had to do it in shop
>class, and have used the compound to do this ever since, and many times.
>Mert
>
>MertBaker@...
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Joe Shaughnessy" <squiggi@...>
>To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:10 AM
>Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Newbie question
>
>
>
>
>>Hi Stan,
>>     Thanks so much for your answer. You and Charles provided great
>>descriptions and it makes a lot of sense. Figured out the tailstock
>>setover and turned the taper for MT1 between centers. (It measures
>>damn close and fits the tailstock with no wiggle, or binding.) I will
>>be ordering some extra parts as I can see that some things would
>>definitely be considered comsumables. I learned a lot in this
>>exercise.
>>      Think I'll have to stop by the local trade colleges and find
>>some more current project examples. Most of the Lindsay books I've
>>purchased are reprints of pre WWII articles. They're basic and
>>simple, and that works for me right now.
>>      Thanks again for your wisdom, a lot of things just aren't
>>covered in books.
>>
>>Laterdays,
>>Joe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
>>You do this yourself by sending a message to:
>>atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
>>
>>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
>
>>To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
>>
>>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
>
>>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
>You do this yourself by sending a message to:
>atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
>To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>

Laquer thinner will thin out bondo as I recall.   There was an article
on this by Phil Duclos years ago.  I usually use epoxy putty to fill in
any large voids and then sand it off.   I use a metal etching primer
followed by several coats of a sandable primer if I want a really smooth
finish, but seldom resort to this.   The epoxy putty to fill up major
voids is usually enough for my machine tools aesthetics.   I even used
epoxy putty to replace a chunk that had broken off of the belt cover of
my atlas lathe years ago.  My  poor ten inch Atlas was a freebie.  One
of those odd circumstances.  I found a steady rest at a flea market for
an Atlas 10 inch ( and one for a twelve inch as well) for fifteen bucks.
   A month later, a neighbor asked me to look at fixing up his ploshing
wheel for jewelry.   When I came over to look at it, it was a motor
bolted to quarter inch plate with a belt running to a polishing head
that was bolted to a bar that was held in the jaw of an Atlas milling
attachment, that was in turn bolted to the plate as well.  The milling
attachment was acting as a belt tensioner.  I welded up a more
conventional stand for the polishing head and he gave me the milling
attachment, plus a several old electric motors for my effort.  At that
time I had a milling machine and did not have an Atlas, but put it in my
growing Atlas box.   That summer, camping out of state, I met a guy that
lived in my town.  Over the week of camping, somehow we ended up
discussing tools.  He told me he had an old lathe that he had picked up
when they were cleaning out a shop at work.  He was a woodworker and had
hoped to use it for wood turning.  Since after getting it home he gave
up on that idea, he told me it was mine for the asking.  A week after I
got home he dropped it off at my house.  I gave him an old table top saw
(un-asked for) just so I wouldn't feel too guilty.  The ways were in
like new condition, but the lathe had been knockerd over at some point.
The last inch of the bed on one side was broken off, the feet were all
cracked and the belt cover had a missing piece.  I have a couple of
other larger and smaller lathes, but it is the only change gear lathe I
have, so I keep it to do metric threads.  I also lucked into a taper
attachment for it, so I leave that set up on it as well.

Charles

cmiller231@... wrote:

>In a message dated 8/29/2003 9:28:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>xlch58@... writes:
>
>
>
>
>>If you want a lasting finish, two part epoxies are hard to beat.   I use
>>a lot of krylon and rustoleum, but find them inferior for machine tools
>>due to the daily contact with solvents, oils and hard steel objects.
>>Its great for your patio furniture, not so good for a lathe.   A cheap
>>touch up gun will do a good job on a lathe or mill. particularily if you
>>are painting each piece as it is reworked.   For a really nice finish on
>>cas iron, brush on a thinned down body filler over the whole surface and
>>then sand smooth before primer.    The oly hassle about the epoxy paints
>>is that you have to work quick and clean up good, because they will set
>>up in the gun.
>>
>>Charles
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>What brand thinned down filler? Thanks Chris
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
>You do this yourself by sending a message to:
>atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
>To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>

Once I had my topslide set to do Mt #3 & #4, (.602"/ft), I drilled a hole
thru the "protractor" into the slide for a locator pin.  Now, it's a real
quick setup.
Mert

MertBaker@...
----- Original Message -----
From: <xlch58@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Newbie question


> You can also put a witness mark on the tailstock base to make it easier
> to set up next time.    I agree dead centers are easier to buy, but the
> skills employed to make one are worth the effort.  After sixteen years
> in this hobby, tapers are still my most dreaded task.   Dead centers are
> cheap to buy, but MT2 collets, tailstock die holders, pipe centers etc
> are not cheap, so dead centers are great practice.   I think the ready
> availability of cheap tooling (relative) these days can complicate
> building basic skills in the shop.   I think the Gingery guys are on to
> something.
>
> Charles
>
> mertbaker wrote:
>
> >If one has the TS set over for MTs, a smart operator will turn several,
so
> >as to have one handy when the TS is back where it belongs.  This advice
is
> >gratuitous, as I did the setover only the one time I had to do it in shop
> >class, and have used the compound to do this ever since, and many times.
> >Mert
> >
> >MertBaker@...
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Joe Shaughnessy" <squiggi@...>
> >To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:10 AM
> >Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Re: Newbie question
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Hi Stan,
> >>     Thanks so much for your answer. You and Charles provided great
> >>descriptions and it makes a lot of sense. Figured out the tailstock
> >>setover and turned the taper for MT1 between centers. (It measures
> >>damn close and fits the tailstock with no wiggle, or binding.) I will
> >>be ordering some extra parts as I can see that some things would
> >>definitely be considered comsumables. I learned a lot in this
> >>exercise.
> >>      Think I'll have to stop by the local trade colleges and find
> >>some more current project examples. Most of the Lindsay books I've
> >>purchased are reprints of pre WWII articles. They're basic and
> >>simple, and that works for me right now.
> >>      Thanks again for your wisdom, a lot of things just aren't
> >>covered in books.
> >>
> >>Laterdays,
> >>Joe
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> >>You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> >>atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >>
> >>Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
> >>
> >>
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
> >
> >
> >>To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
> >>
> >>
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
> >
> >
> >>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> >You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> >atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
> >
> >To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>

Mert: Just a note of information--- #3 Morse Taper is .602/ft and  #4 Morse
Taper is .623/ft. Hope you have not been cutting both at same setting.


Ron

In a message dated 9/3/2003 9:00:36 AM Pacific Standard Time,
atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com writes:


>  "A relieved center would simplify the facing
> operation."
>

Also sometimes called a "half center". It is a center that has had most of
one side cut or relieved away, leaving only part of the point. The use allows
you to get a tool right up to the center drilled portion of your work piece.
Without having access to a relieved center to face the tail stock end you can
grind up a tool (advantage here for HSS) that will allow you to face almost to
the center, leaving only a small pip to file off.
John in the high desert of California
12 inch Atlas
Mini Mill
Rusty file


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]