This article presents a very simple method of having the Electronic Edge
Finder function by using a commonly available continuity checker and a few
bits from around the shop. It should work on any mill and any lathe. In
spite of its simplicity, you can detect the touch-down of the cutter with a
repeatability of better than 0.0002".



If you are interested, please see



http://rick.sparber.org/LTEEF.pdf



Your comments and questions are welcome. All of us are smarter than any one
of us.



For the full index of my articles, see rick.sparber.org.



Rick

rgsparber@...

rick.sparber.org





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

There is one on craigslist. I believ in Detroit i will look for the link just
saw it this morning
GP




________________________________
From: jy_tthr <jy_tthr@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, May 28, 2012 1:15:09 PM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill

 
New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
sale, or who I can contact about one?
Thank you, Jay




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here  is the link to the mill looks like a nice one
GP

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/tls/2990688486.html



________________________________
From: Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, May 28, 2012 2:19:24 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill

 
There is one on craigslist. I believ in Detroit i will look for the link just
saw it this morning
GP

________________________________
From: jy_tthr <jy_tthr@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, May 28, 2012 1:15:09 PM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill

 
New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
sale, or who I can contact about one?
Thank you, Jay

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have one for sale in Chardon OH 44024 , Also a 7in Ammco Shaper.
Bill
hillbrook@...

From: Guenther Paul
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 11:19 AM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill


There is one on craigslist. I believ in Detroit i will look for the link just
saw it this morning
GP

________________________________
From: jy_tthr <mailto:jy_tthr%40yahoo.com>
To: mailto:atlas_craftsman%40yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, May 28, 2012 1:15:09 PM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill


New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
sale, or who I can contact about one?
Thank you, Jay

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I believe that one has sold.
Jay


________________________________
  From: Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill



 

There is one on craigslist. I believ in Detroit i will look for the link just
saw it this morning
GP

________________________________
From: jy_tthr <jy_tthr@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, May 28, 2012 1:15:09 PM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill

 
New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
sale, or who I can contact about one?
Thank you, Jay

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jay, there was one recently for sale in Oklahma City, is that to far for
you?
bill hinkle
in Oklahoma
PS: I don't think it sold


In a message dated 5/28/2012 12:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
jy_tthr@... writes:




New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
  sale, or who I can contact about one?
Thank you, Jay






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bill, Do you know how to get ahold of him?
Jay


________________________________
  From: "wbhinkle@..." <wbhinkle@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill



 

Jay, there was one recently for sale in Oklahma City, is that to far for
you?
bill hinkle
in Oklahoma
PS: I don't think it sold


In a message dated 5/28/2012 12:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
jy_tthr@... writes:

New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
sale, or who I can contact about one?
Thank you, Jay

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

where are you located, i have one in ohio with a vertical marvin attachment and
a marvin shaper attachment (the guy i got it from didn't know what the shaper
attachment was and put it in a bucket in the shop, needless to say it is rusted
but i'm sure it can be redone) my intrest have change and i have a buddy with a
clausing 8520 he is willing to sell now and it suits my needs better at this
time. there is some tooling with the mill and if you are interested i'll take
some pictures. mine is an mfc so it doesn't have the guard on top i don't think.

thanks,
ed
---- jy_tthr <jy_tthr@...> wrote:
> New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
sale, or who I can contact about one?
> Thank you, Jay
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

hi i saw where someone was interested in an atlas horizontal mill, i have one in
s.w. ohio. it has the marvin verticl attachment,marvin shaper attachment(the guy
that i got it from didn't know what the shaper was and put it in a bucket in the
shop and it got pretty rusty but i know that it can be cleaned and should work)
and the rotary table, no vise, some tooling. my interest have changed and a
buddy of mine is willing to sell his clausing 8520 to me now.

thanks,
ed

---- Jay Tether <jy_tthr@...> wrote:
> Bill, Do you know how to get ahold of him?
> Jay
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: "wbhinkle@..." <wbhinkle@...>
> To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 3:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill
>
>
>
>  
>
> Jay, there was one recently for sale in Oklahma City, is that to far for
> you?
> bill hinkle
> in Oklahoma
> PS: I don't think it sold
>
>
> In a message dated 5/28/2012 12:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> jy_tthr@... writes:
>
> New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
> sale, or who I can contact about one?
> Thank you, Jay
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

I found a 618 for sale asking price $75.00. I am going to look at it on Tuesday,
its been setting a while from the photo. It should be worth 75.00 regardless if
it runs or not?

It would seem so. How much tooling comes with it? That could make it very
worthwhile.

Rick H

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 10:59 PM, bozlawless <bozlawless@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> I found a 618 for sale asking price $75.00. I am going to look at it on
> Tuesday, its been setting a while from the photo. It should be worth 75.00
> regardless if it runs or not?
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

No tooling is what I was told. Should this lathe have extra gears?



--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Richard Hughson <richughson@...> wrote:
>
> It would seem so. How much tooling comes with it? That could make it very
> worthwhile.
>
> Rick H
>
> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 10:59 PM, bozlawless <bozlawless@...> wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > I found a 618 for sale asking price $75.00. I am going to look at it on
> > Tuesday, its been setting a while from the photo. It should be worth 75.00
> > regardless if it runs or not?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Brian,

OK.  10-244 was used in all Atlas 10" and 12" from the 10F on.  If you
haven't already located one, although there aren't currently any individual
gears listed that I could find, there are about six 10" or 12" external back
gear assemblies currently listed on eBay.  Prices from $20 and no bids to $80
BIN.  Beware one of the cheaper 10" ones.  The 10-244 is missing a tooth.

I thought it strange that there are five 10-242 (the spindle small back
gear) listed but no 10-244 (the layshaft small back gear).

Robert D

In a message dated 05/26/2012 18:37:40 PM Central Daylight Time,
affordableauto1@... writes:
> Ok i will try this again, I guess I was too vague and didn't "sign my
> post. Sorry but I really still don't know what that means. But my name is
> Brian Bertch I am from Plattsmouth NE and I am looking for the small back gear
> for my atlas 3996 lathe. This is the small gear that you engage for lower
> speeds. The # on the gear is 10-244 I am a real person with real cash
> needing to make an actual purchase from one of the members of this group.
Thank
> you for your time and consideration.

Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
MVPA 9480

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Boz,

If you mean does it need them, yes.  To change the feed rate, you change a
gear or gears on the left end of the lathe.

I think that the 618 manual is in the files section of the main group (this
one).  If it isn't there, I have a copy if you need it.

Robert D.

In a message dated 05/28/2012 22:41:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
bozlawless@... writes:
> No tooling is what I was told. Should this lathe have extra gears?
>
>
>
> --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Richard Hughson <richughson@...>
> wrote:
> >
> >It would seem so. How much tooling comes with it? That could make it very
> >worthwhile.
> >
> >Rick H
> >
> >On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 10:59 PM, bozlawless <bozlawless@...> wrote:
> >
> >>**
> >>
> >>
> >>I found a 618 for sale asking price $75.00. I am going to look at it on
> >>Tuesday, its been setting a while from the photo. It should be worth
> 75.00
> >>regardless if it runs or not?
>

Robert Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
MVPA 9480

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I puchased this model from a guy about a month ago.
It came with everything that it originally was sold with.
Plus other items. The countershaft assembly was gone but still had the
original motor. I took it completely apart and cleaned and painted.
I am putting it back together this week. What would be the value of this model?
I didn't pay very much for it. I not sure if I should
add the countershaft assembly and make it original or maybe put a
DC motor on it. Any recommendations? The headstock is strange.
It doesn't look like any pictures I've seen.

Thanks,
Dave

Depending upon your tool holder, it might make more sense to put the
electrical insulation on the holder rather than on the cutter.

For example, I use a lantern toolpost.  THAT would be hard to insulate, but
it would be simplicity itself to wrap the tool holder with paper and top
that with thin steel to keep the screw from penetrating the paper.

By contrast, the 1/4" tool bits I use might not fit in the holder if
wrapped with paper.

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 10:31 AM, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> The more I think about the complexity involved in detecting touchdown on a
> very low resistance lathe, the more I like insulating the cutter. I
> measured
> the resistance across my compound ways and got 0.002 ohms. Yet the
> resistance I measure between spindle and cutter at touch down (with the
> cutter insulated from the lathe) is around 0.6 ohms plus it has a fair
> amount of variation.
>
> Even if there was no variation in the touch down resistance, we are talking
> about trying to detect a change in resistance of 10 millionths of an ohm.
> It
> can be done but the circuit would be complex. Contrast that with wrapping
> each cutter holder with a single layer of paper and placing a piece of
> sheet
> metal on top to spread the force of the set screws. Then we are talking
> about detecting a change from open circuit to 0.6 ohms. Any continuity
> checker can do that.
>
> So for those that measure a resistance greater than 2.5 ohms across a
> lathe's spindle bearings, they can use my circuit and won't have to modify
> any cutter supports. If you measure less than 2.5 ohms, then insulting each
> cutter support will do the trick.
>
> Similarly, if you measure greater than 2.5 ohms across a mill's spindle
> bearings, my circuit will work. If less than 2.5 ohms, insulate the work
> piece with a layer of paper top and bottom. The paper will improve holding
> power of the clamps yet should not affect accuracy. Connect your continuity
> checker between work piece and table.
>
> Rick
>
>
>



--
Bruce
NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Oops, sorry.  I realize I missed the installment in which you describe
exactly what you mean -- essentially what I just suggested.

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 4:34 AM, Bruce . <freemab222@...> wrote:

> Depending upon your tool holder, it might make more sense to put the
> electrical insulation on the holder rather than on the cutter.
>
> For example, I use a lantern toolpost.  THAT would be hard to insulate,
> but it would be simplicity itself to wrap the tool holder with paper and
> top that with thin steel to keep the screw from penetrating the paper.
>
> By contrast, the 1/4" tool bits I use might not fit in the holder if
> wrapped with paper.
>
>
> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 10:31 AM, Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...> wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> The more I think about the complexity involved in detecting touchdown on a
>> very low resistance lathe, the more I like insulating the cutter. I
>> measured
>> the resistance across my compound ways and got 0.002 ohms. Yet the
>> resistance I measure between spindle and cutter at touch down (with the
>> cutter insulated from the lathe) is around 0.6 ohms plus it has a fair
>> amount of variation.
>>
>> Even if there was no variation in the touch down resistance, we are
>> talking
>> about trying to detect a change in resistance of 10 millionths of an ohm.
>> It
>> can be done but the circuit would be complex. Contrast that with wrapping
>> each cutter holder with a single layer of paper and placing a piece of
>> sheet
>> metal on top to spread the force of the set screws. Then we are talking
>> about detecting a change from open circuit to 0.6 ohms. Any continuity
>> checker can do that.
>>
>> So for those that measure a resistance greater than 2.5 ohms across a
>> lathe's spindle bearings, they can use my circuit and won't have to modify
>> any cutter supports. If you measure less than 2.5 ohms, then insulting
>> each
>> cutter support will do the trick.
>>
>> Similarly, if you measure greater than 2.5 ohms across a mill's spindle
>> bearings, my circuit will work. If less than 2.5 ohms, insulate the work
>> piece with a layer of paper top and bottom. The paper will improve holding
>> power of the clamps yet should not affect accuracy. Connect your
>> continuity
>> checker between work piece and table.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce
> NJ
>



--
Bruce
NJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi guys - i have 2 atlas horz mills for sale - contact me offlist for pics and
prices - thanks fred - imsteamer21@...


--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "millstenor" <johnnybop@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm new to the group and purchased an Atlas Mill three days ago.
>
> It is not in operating condition right now, with the power feed mechanism not
mounted to the frame and the drive motor also not mounted.  I could post some
photos if anyone is interested in seeing it.
>
> The seller also tells me the casting that holds the spindle and drive gear
train has problems and he had purchased a replacement casting on eBay that was
part of the package I purchased.
>
> I haven't even had a good chance to see all that came with it but is has many
cutters, some still with the original wax on the teeth to protect from
corrosion.  It also has more than one spindle.
>
> I'd be interested in any resources anyone might recommend to help me get the
unit running.
>
> Thanks,
> John
>

Would you be interested in selling the Warner Shaper head?
Bill
hillbrook@...

From: ecombs2@...
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 12:47 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Jay Tether
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill


hi i saw where someone was interested in an atlas horizontal mill, i have one in
s.w. ohio. it has the marvin verticl attachment,marvin shaper attachment(the guy
that i got it from didn't know what the shaper was and put it in a bucket in the
shop and it got pretty rusty but i know that it can be cleaned and should work)
and the rotary table, no vise, some tooling. my interest have changed and a
buddy of mine is willing to sell his clausing 8520 to me now.

thanks,
ed

---- Jay Tether <mailto:jy_tthr%40yahoo.com> wrote:
> Bill, Do you know how to get ahold of him?
> Jay
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: "mailto:wbhinkle%40aol.com" <mailto:wbhinkle%40aol.com>
> To: mailto:atlas_craftsman%40yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 3:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill
>
>
>
>
>
> Jay, there was one recently for sale in Oklahma City, is that to far for
> you?
> bill hinkle
> in Oklahoma
> PS: I don't think it sold
>
>
> In a message dated 5/28/2012 12:15:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> mailto:jy_tthr%40yahoo.com writes:
>
> New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one for
> sale, or who I can contact about one?
> Thank you, Jay
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> mailto:atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bruce,

I've certainly jumped the gun a few times.

If you wanted to insulate a cutter holder in a lantern tool holder, I suspect
you would need a piece of sheet metal under the shank too. Those teeth in the
rocker would cut right through paper.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bruce .
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 1:36 AM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] possibly my final word on an Electrtonic Edge
Finder for mill and lathe ;-)

Oops, sorry.  I realize I missed the installment in which you describe exactly
what you mean -- essentially what I just suggested.

On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 4:34 AM, Bruce . <freemab222@...> wrote:

> Depending upon your tool holder, it might make more sense to put the
> electrical insulation on the holder rather than on the cutter.
>
> For example, I use a lantern toolpost.  THAT would be hard to
> insulate, but it would be simplicity itself to wrap the tool holder
> with paper and top that with thin steel to keep the screw from penetrating the
paper.
>
> By contrast, the 1/4" tool bits I use might not fit in the holder if
> wrapped with paper.

Without the extra gears is it still worth $75.00? How much would a set cost? If
I can find them!






--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
>
> Boz,
>
> If you mean does it need them, yes.  To change the feed rate, you change a
> gear or gears on the left end of the lathe.
>
> I think that the 618 manual is in the files section of the main group (this
> one).  If it isn't there, I have a copy if you need it.
>
> Robert D.
>
> In a message dated 05/28/2012 22:41:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
> bozlawless@... writes:
> > No tooling is what I was told. Should this lathe have extra gears?
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Richard Hughson <richughson@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >It would seem so. How much tooling comes with it? That could make it very
> > >worthwhile.
> > >
> > >Rick H
> > >
> > >On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 10:59 PM, bozlawless <bozlawless@> wrote:
> > >
> > >>**
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>I found a 618 for sale asking price $75.00. I am going to look at it on
> > >>Tuesday, its been setting a while from the photo. It should be worth
> > 75.00
> > >>regardless if it runs or not?
> >
>
> Robert Downs - Houston
> wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
> MVPA 9480
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Dave,

I've no information with which to guess at a value but would guess that
anyone interested in it would more than likely be looking at it as a
collectible rather than as an only lathe to use.  So I'd leave the original
motor if
it's still OK.  In either case, I wouldn't think spending either time or
money spent converting it to a DC motor would be well spent.

Whether you would recoup money spent acquiring the vertical countershaft
assembly or not I don't know.  Although I don't have a 9" manual or parts
list, I did check and see that all but two parts shown on the 10D list are 9-
parts as are most of those on the 10F list.

Robert D

In a message dated 05/29/2012 01:55:23 AM Central Daylight Time,
machinefunsim@... writes:
> I puchased this model from a guy about a month ago.
> It came with everything that it originally was sold with.
> Plus other items. The countershaft assembly was gone but still had the
> original motor. I took it completely apart and cleaned and painted.
> I am putting it back together this week. What would be the value of this
> model? I didn't pay very much for it. I not sure if I should
> add the countershaft assembly and make it original or maybe put a
> DC motor on it. Any recommendations? The headstock is strange.
> It doesn't look like any pictures I've seen.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave

Robert Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
MVPA 9480

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What are your intentions if you buy it?  If you are going to fix it up and
use it, you'll probably need the gears.  And other things.  If you intend to
part it out, I wouldn't see any reason to buy them.

I've never fiddled with a 6" but as far as cost of threading gears go, on
eBay right now I see individual gears priced from $13.95 to $24.95.  And one
set of 9 on auction currently at $61.  So it's probably safe to say that a
set of gears will cost more than $75.

In a message dated 05/29/2012 09:15:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
bozlawless@... writes:
>
> Without the extra gears is it still worth $75.00? How much would a set
> cost? If I can find them!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, wa5cab@... wrote:
> >
> >Boz,
> >
> >If you mean does it need them, yes.  To change the feed rate, you change
> a
> >gear or gears on the left end of the lathe.
> >
> >I think that the 618 manual is in the files section of the main group
> (this
> >one).  If it isn't there, I have a copy if you need it.
> >
> >Robert D.
> >
> >In a message dated 05/28/2012 22:41:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
> >bozlawless@... writes:
> >>No tooling is what I was told. Should this lathe have extra gears?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Richard Hughson <richughson@>
> >>wrote:
> >>>
> >>>It would seem so. How much tooling comes with it? That could make it
> very
> >>>worthwhile.
> >>>
> >>>Rick H
> >>>
> >>>On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 10:59 PM, bozlawless <bozlawless@> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>**
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>I found a 618 for sale asking price $75.00. I am going to look at it
> on
> >>>>Tuesday, its been setting a while from the photo. It should be worth
> >>75.00
> >>>>regardless if it runs or not?
>

Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
MVPA 9480

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You will need the gears if you intend to cut threads.
For facing and turning, you can use the hand wheels.

If it's an Atlas and not a Sears Dunlap 6", then it's worth $75
if you intend to use it. If it's the Sears, forget it.

lance
++++

On May 29, 2012, at 11:28 AM, wa5cab@... wrote:

> What are your intentions if you buy it? If you are going to fix it up and
> use it, you'll probably need the gears.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

bozlawless (Please get in the habit of using a real name),

Depends on what you mean by extra. As Robert said, in order to use the
lathe for screw cutting (threading) you need a train of gears from the spindle
to the lead screw, different gears for different threads.

The lathe should have a gear on the left end of the spindle. Below that
there should be a lever with two gears which can be engaged with the spindle
gear and a double gear below the two gears. This much should be with the
lathe  in any case because there is no reason to remove them. Below this there
should  be a two-arm bracket, often called a banjo, on which to mount
additional gears  including a gear on the left end of the leadscrew.

The standard complete set of removable change gears for your lathe  is:
20, 24, 32, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 48, 52, 54, 56, 64, and 64 (note the
duplications).
You will also need at least two change gear stud assemblies and I believe
the standard set includes two steel spacers.

If you don't have a complete set and want to acquire them a few at a time
you should determine which gears you consider most important. This depends
on  what pitches you wish to cut. When I acquired my lathe with an incomplete
set of  gears I decided the first priority was gears to cut the pitch of
the spindle for  mounting chucks. Some Atlas-built 6" lathes came with an 8
TPI thread and some  with 10 TPI.
For 8 TPI you need two 32s and two 64s plus a steel spacer
For 10 TPI you need one 32, one 40, two 64s, plus a steel spacer.

My next priority was fine power feeds.
Finest power feed of .0024" requires one each 20, 24, 48, and two  64s.
There are several additional fine feeds for which the gear setups are
listed on the 6" Threading Chart, a copy of which I'm attaching to this 
message.

Which additional gears you acquire, in what order of priority, depends on
what pitches you think you're most likely to wish to cut. You can figure
that  out for yourself.

Finally, once you become more knowledgeable you may realize that extras of
some of the gears or different gears can be useful. By that time you should
be  able to figure the requirements out for yourself or you can ask
assistance from  others here or on the 618Atlas group.

Hope this is useful to you.

Anthony
Berkeley, Calif.
********************************************

In a message dated Mon May 28, 2012 8:41 pm (PDT),  bozlawless writes:

No  tooling is what I was told. Should this lathe have extra  gears?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

How much do you want for the whole setup?  I may be interested.

Bruce

--------------------------------------------------
From: <ecombs2@...>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 2:38 PM
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "jy_tthr" <jy_tthr@...>
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill

where are you located, i have one in ohio with a vertical marvin attachment
and a marvin shaper attachment (the guy i got it from didn't know what the
shaper attachment was and put it in a bucket in the shop, needless to say it
is rusted but i'm sure it can be redone) my intrest have change and i have a
buddy with a clausing 8520 he is willing to sell now and it suits my needs
better at this time. there is some tooling with the mill and if you are
interested i'll take some pictures. mine is an mfc so it doesn't have the
guard on top i don't think.

thanks,
ed
---- jy_tthr <jy_tthr@...> wrote:
> New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one
> for sale, or who I can contact about one?
> Thank you, Jay
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
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>
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>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
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>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
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> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
> mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>



------------------------------------

TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
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To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/

The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links

I am also very interested in the Atlas setup. Thanks, Brian



________________________________
  From: Bruce Monson <bmonson61@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill



 

How much do you want for the whole setup?  I may be interested.

Bruce

--------------------------------------------------
From: <ecombs2@...>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 2:38 PM
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "jy_tthr" <jy_tthr@...>
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Horizontal mill

where are you located, i have one in ohio with a vertical marvin attachment
and a marvin shaper attachment (the guy i got it from didn't know what the
shaper attachment was and put it in a bucket in the shop, needless to say it
is rusted but i'm sure it can be redone) my intrest have change and i have a
buddy with a clausing 8520 he is willing to sell now and it suits my needs
better at this time. there is some tooling with the mill and if you are
interested i'll take some pictures. mine is an mfc so it doesn't have the
guard on top i don't think.

thanks,
ed
---- jy_tthr <jy_tthr@...> wrote:
> New to the group and looking for an Atlas mill. Does anyone know of one
> for sale, or who I can contact about one?
> Thank you, Jay
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
> You do this yourself by sending a message to:
> atlas_craftsman-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Atlas-Craftsman Projects list is at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/
>
> To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/
>
> The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
> http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
> Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
> mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

------------------------------------

TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
You do this yourself by sending a message to:
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To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman/

The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The "Electrolytic" method *can* be effective......

personally, having tried it a couple times, I find it is fussy and
inconvenient, requiring extra equipment, and taking up space.

There are several common methods of rust removal.

1) Electrolytic
Requires a tank, washing soda, water, an electrode (do not use stainless, it
makes a mess and the mess may be hazmat), wires and clips to connect with,
and a source of low voltage DC current.  A bit of a hassle to set up, and
probably is no better than most other methods.

Removes rust, but tends to do so slowly

Will damage stressed parts, like springs, but generally stops action when
rust is removed.  Also creates a lot of black 'goo", whichcan be very hard
to remove from the part you want to clean.

2) Muriatic acid
Requires a tank, acid, and dilution water.

Removes rust, for sure, and in a short time. Does NOT stop action when rust
is removed.

Will damage any part left in too long.  Acid will rust everything in your
shop, and must be kept far from any steel.  Acid is strong and will burn you
if you get strong solution on you.

3) Phosphoric acid
Requires a tank, acid, and water.

Very effectively removes rust, in a short time.   Stops action when rust is
removed.  If gray coating is not removed, it is somewhat rust protective
against future rusting.

Will damage stressed parts if left in the acid for too long.   "Too long" is
generally several times longer than needed, so that is no big issue in most
cases.   Does leave a gray coating, but it is reasonably easy to brush off.

Phosphoric acid has NO special rusting effect on  metals in the shop, no
special storage required.


4) "Patent mixtures" sold in the magazine back pages, or at the Auto parts
store.
Some of them are apparently very effective, I have not used those.

Generally expensive stuff.    Some types can put on a coating that may not
be wanted unless you are painting the surface afterwards.  others apparently
do not leave a coating, and if they work well, may be a good solution.


None of these can put back metal, so what is gone is gone, never to return.
But, since rust is an abrasive, it is good to get rid of it.  The missing
metal may not be an issue, or it can be er-built by various methods in some
cases.

For lathe beds, generally the surface needs to be ground back until sound
metal is reached all over, which may leave a rather thin bed in some cases..
You may be able to fill small pits with epoxy, I have done this on lathe
beds with good success, to prevent leaving a 'swarf collector" to do even
MORE damage.

JT



----- Original Message -----
From: <paulguenter@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 6:26 AM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Rust Removal


> Here is a link to remove rust and it does not hurt the part
> GP
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/orrin/rustdemo.htm
>
>
>

I use molasses in solution, 5 parts water to 1 part molasses, although I've seen
folks go as high as 10 to 1. Immerse the rusted part in this goo and forget
about it for a while. It's not fast; surface rust might take a week, while deep
rust might go 2 or 3 weeks. But I don't have to come up with a safe way to
dispose of nasty chemicals, either. My well is no further than a couple hundred
feet from my septic system, so anything I pour into the ground has a shot at
working its way into my drinking water. Normally, we store the nasties until the
town has a hazmat disposal day, typically once a year.

Molasses contains something called a chelating agent, the chemistry behind which
I don't claim to understand. It binds to the iron oxide, but it won't attack the
rest of the metal that isn't oxidized. This process, like the others, won't make
metal grow back, so if the surface was deeply pitted, it will come out deeply
pitted, but a very rust-free deeply pitted. The surface will be clean, bare
metal, so when you pull your parts out, be prepared to paint them, oil them, or
come up with some kind of protective coating, or they'll oxidize very quickly
again, sometimes in minutes if the conditions are right.

I've got a small vat of this going in my basement right now with a number of
tools soaking in it, and more in the waits.

Jim Ash


-----Original Message-----
From: jerdal@...
Sent: May 30, 2012 8:09 AM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Rust Removal





The "Electrolytic" method *can* be effective......

personally, having tried it a couple times, I find it is fussy and
inconvenient, requiring extra equipment, and taking up space.

There are several common methods of rust removal.

1) Electrolytic
Requires a tank, washing soda, water, an electrode (do not use stainless, it
makes a mess and the mess may be hazmat), wires and clips to connect with,
and a source of low voltage DC current. A bit of a hassle to set up, and
probably is no better than most other methods.

Removes rust, but tends to do so slowly

Will damage stressed parts, like springs, but generally stops action when
rust is removed. Also creates a lot of black 'goo", whichcan be very hard
to remove from the part you want to clean.

2) Muriatic acid
Requires a tank, acid, and dilution water.

Removes rust, for sure, and in a short time. Does NOT stop action when rust
is removed.

Will damage any part left in too long. Acid will rust everything in your
shop, and must be kept far from any steel. Acid is strong and will burn you
if you get strong solution on you.

3) Phosphoric acid
Requires a tank, acid, and water.

Very effectively removes rust, in a short time. Stops action when rust is
removed. If gray coating is not removed, it is somewhat rust protective
against future rusting.

Will damage stressed parts if left in the acid for too long. "Too long" is
generally several times longer than needed, so that is no big issue in most
cases. Does leave a gray coating, but it is reasonably easy to brush off.

Phosphoric acid has NO special rusting effect on metals in the shop, no
special storage required.

4) "Patent mixtures" sold in the magazine back pages, or at the Auto parts
store.
Some of them are apparently very effective, I have not used those.

Generally expensive stuff. Some types can put on a coating that may not
be wanted unless you are painting the surface afterwards. others apparently
do not leave a coating, and if they work well, may be a good solution.

None of these can put back metal, so what is gone is gone, never to return.
But, since rust is an abrasive, it is good to get rid of it. The missing
metal may not be an issue, or it can be er-built by various methods in some
cases.

For lathe beds, generally the surface needs to be ground back until sound
metal is reached all over, which may leave a rather thin bed in some cases..
You may be able to fill small pits with epoxy, I have done this on lathe
beds with good success, to prevent leaving a 'swarf collector" to do even
MORE damage.

JT

----- Original Message -----
From: <paulguenter@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 6:26 AM
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] Rust Removal

> Here is a link to remove rust and it does not hurt the part
> GP
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/orrin/rustdemo.htm
>
>
>

Boz, I don't know anything about the 6" lathes.  I do, however, have a bunch of
10"/12" change gears from one recent restoration and one in the 1970s, including
several new gears.  At age 67 it's time to start getting rid of stuff that has
been gathering dust for decades.  If this might be helpful I'd be glad to send
pictures.

Ray

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "bozlawless" <bozlawless@...> wrote:
>
> I found a 618 for sale asking price $75.00. I am going to look at it on
Tuesday, its been setting a while from the photo. It should be worth 75.00
regardless if it runs or not?
>