OK.  If you use DesignCad to output the schematic to PDF, does part of the
circuit disappear in the resultant PDF as you zoom out?  Never mind Word for
the moment.

In a message dated 06/25/2012 18:48:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
rgsparber@... writes:
> I used DesignCad V14 to draw the schematic and I then use a screen print
> to
> put it into the Word file. DesignCad can output PDF but not much else that
> is useful for Word.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wa5cab@...
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 4:22 PM
> To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
> Edge Finder
>
> OK.  Let's back up.  What did you use to draw the schematic and what file
> format did it create?
>
> In a message dated 06/25/2012 17:48:12 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rgsparber@... writes:
> >I do use a PDF print driver to translate my Word output. But I don't
> >see how that can put a picture in pdf format into Word.
> >
> >Rick
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> >[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wa5cab@...
> >Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 3:36 PM
> >To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating
> >Electronic Edge Finder
> >
> >You don't.  Or at least not directly.  What you would do from Word is
> >to click File/Print (because I think the Word print button only sends
> >to the default printer).  In the printer driver window that comes up,
> >look for another printer named Adobe PDF and select it.  As you have
> >never used it, you may want to check the defaults.  And like any
> >print-to-file operation, you get to tell it where to write the PDF file.
> >
> >In a message dated 06/25/2012 17:10:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
> >rgsparber@... writes:
> >>Robert,
> >>
> >>I can print to PDF but how do I load PDF into Word?
> >>Rick
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> >>[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wa5cab@...
> >>Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 9:47 AM
> >>To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> >>Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating
> >>Electronic Edge Finder
> >>
> >>Rick,
> >>
> >>If you have Acrobat, you should have an Acrobat printer driver loaded.
> >>Try
> >>printing it to PDF.  That may fix it.
> >>
> >>Robert D.

Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
MVPA 9480

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Better yet, get a non-Adobe PDF generator, such as "PDF995" which is
freeware, with a purchase option that eliminates a delay and some
advertisements.

Works great, price is right.   There are others, some alleged to be "better"
in unspecified ways.

You use them the same way.... any PDF generator acts like a printer.

JT


----- Original Message -----
From: <wa5cab@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder


> You don't.  Or at least not directly.  What you would do from Word is to
> click File/Print (because I think the Word print button only sends to the
> default printer).  In the printer driver window that comes up, look for
> another
> printer named Adobe PDF and select it.  As you have never used it, you may
> want to check the defaults.  And like any print-to-file operation, you get
> to
> tell it where to write the PDF file.

I had this problem.

The key in the miter gear < part 10F-82A>
  was sheared off completely,
so there was no drive to the cross-feed.

The key of the miter gear is engaged with the
slot in the lead screw upon re-assembly.

If your key is missing, one can be made
from brass rod.

lance
++++


On Jun 25, 2012, at 7:32 PM, rpm7200max wrote:

> Hello again....I got my Atlas QC42 almost working great again, except for one
thing, my cross feed auto feed doesn't work....when I pull out the nice chrome
knob, nothing happens, of course I have the tumbler set to go left or right, my
cross slide works swell in both directions left or right, except for the cross
feed. I did notice, when I turn the cross slide handle, that the chrome knob
turns also....I'm not sure what I should do first to see what is either broken,
or what I'm not doing right....I'm sorry if I don't explain this the proper way,
English is not my native language, so I'm struggling a little with the technical
stuff...Thank you in advance......Peter



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

#1....  "paste special"  as a picture tends to work much better than
bitmap..... and a "shift printscreen" is perfectly usable input....  I
usually take that into "paint", or an equivalent program to trim and so
forth then copy and "paste special" into Word.   Works great for 'scope
camera pictures in reports (when the 'scope doesn't use TekVisa, etc).

However, with a PDF generator,  (at least PDF995 has a function for it)  you
can stitch together PDFs to form a larger PDF.....  so write your Word
document, PDF it, then attach your PDF schematic.....rolling them into one
file.

JT

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 6:48 PM
Subject: RE: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder


>I used DesignCad V14 to draw the schematic and I then use a screen print to
> put it into the Word file. DesignCad can output PDF but not much else that
> is useful for Word.
>
> Rick

In PDF format, all lines remain visible.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wa5cab@...
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 7:24 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder

OK.  If you use DesignCad to output the schematic to PDF, does part of the
circuit disappear in the resultant PDF as you zoom out?  Never mind Word for
the moment.

In a message dated 06/25/2012 18:48:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
rgsparber@... writes:
> I used DesignCad V14 to draw the schematic and I then use a screen
> print to put it into the Word file. DesignCad can output PDF but not
> much else that is useful for Word.
>
> Rick

JT,

I've used primoPDF for a long time. Works well for me.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jerdal@...
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 7:42 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder

Better yet, get a non-Adobe PDF generator, such as "PDF995" which is
freeware, with a purchase option that eliminates a delay and some
advertisements.

Works great, price is right.   There are others, some alleged to be "better"

in unspecified ways.

You use them the same way.... any PDF generator acts like a printer.

JT

On 6/25/2012 11:07 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> JT,
>
> I've used primoPDF for a long time. Works well for me.
>
> Rick
>
I use CutePDF writer. Works well and free with no ads.

The paid version allows editing PDF's and stitching them together.

Most PDF writers will recognise a URL and make a link. You could always
store a PDF of the schematic separately on the web site and link to it..

--

------------------------------------
	 Scott G. Henion
Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
------------------------------------

I think I found a solution that fits with my work flow - make the lines
fatter. The next version of the article will have that for the full size
schematic.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jerdal@...
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 7:48 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder

#1....  "paste special"  as a picture tends to work much better than
bitmap..... and a "shift printscreen" is perfectly usable input....  I
usually take that into "paint", or an equivalent program to trim and so
forth then copy and "paste special" into Word.   Works great for 'scope
camera pictures in reports (when the 'scope doesn't use TekVisa, etc).

However, with a PDF generator,  (at least PDF995 has a function for it)  you
can stitch together PDFs to form a larger PDF.....  so write your Word
document, PDF it, then attach your PDF schematic.....rolling them into one
file.

JT

Acrobat (at least from 7.0 on) also allows Insert and Delete page or pages.


I will mention one strange behavior I discovered in 7.0.  If you Delete a
page or pages, the file size does not change.  However, once you are
finished, you can do a Save As to another file name, and it only writes the
undeleted pages.  Kinda like most Disk Operating Systems.

In a message dated 06/25/2012 21:48:14 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerdal@... writes:
> #1....  "paste special"  as a picture tends to work much better than
> bitmap..... and a "shift printscreen" is perfectly usable input....  I
> usually take that into "paint", or an equivalent program to trim and so
> forth then copy and "paste special" into Word.   Works great for 'scope
> camera pictures in reports (when the 'scope doesn't use TekVisa, etc).
>
> However, with a PDF generator,  (at least PDF995 has a function for it)
> you
> can stitch together PDFs to form a larger PDF.....  so write your Word
> document, PDF it, then attach your PDF schematic.....rolling them into one
>
> file.
>
> JT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Sparber" <rgsparber@...>
> To: <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 6:48 PM
> Subject: RE: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
>
> Edge Finder
>
>
> >I used DesignCad V14 to draw the schematic and I then use a screen print
> to
> >put it into the Word file. DesignCad can output PDF but not much else
> that
> >is useful for Word.
> >
> >Rick
>
>

Robert & Susan Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
MVPA 9480

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

OK.  Then write the text in Word, convert it to PDF, and in whatever PDF
editor you are using, Insert the schematic.

In a message dated 06/25/2012 22:06:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
rgsparber@... writes:
> In PDF format, all lines remain visible.
>
> Rick
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wa5cab@...
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 7:24 PM
> To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
> Edge Finder
>
> OK.  If you use DesignCad to output the schematic to PDF, does part of the
> circuit disappear in the resultant PDF as you zoom out?  Never mind Word
> for
> the moment.
>
> In a message dated 06/25/2012 18:48:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rgsparber@... writes:
> >I used DesignCad V14 to draw the schematic and I then use a screen
> >print to put it into the Word file. DesignCad can output PDF but not
> >much else that is useful for Word.
> >
> >Rick
>

Robert  Downs - Houston
wa5cab dot com (Web Store)
MVPA 9480

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 6/25/2012 7:48 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> I used DesignCad V14 to draw the schematic and I then use a screen print to
> put it into the Word file. DesignCad can output PDF but not much else that
> is useful for Word.
>
> Rick

DesignCAD has an export function. One of the options in my old version
is Windows Meta File (.wmf). That should be importable to Word and be
resizable.

BTW, it shows fine here in the default zoom. I don't use Adobe reader
due to its bugs. In PDF-Xchange it views fine unless I zoom out below 80%.

--

------------------------------------
	 Scott G. Henion
Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
------------------------------------

>
> In a message dated 06/25/2012 16:30:16 PM Central Daylight Time,
> rschaal_95135@... writes:
>
>> I liked your article accompanying the schematic.  You failed to properly
>> credit Keithly Instruments in adopting the four-wire probe,
The Kelvin sensing arrangement is named after its inventor, William
Thompson, Lord Kelvin.
He died in 1907, so it certainly predates Keithley and other
manufacturers who used it
in commercial instruments.

Jon

Rick,
 
You can embed the PDF drawing that you output from the CAD program in the Word
document.  Once you embed the PDF just use Word to Print-To-PDF to create the
final file.
Here's a link on how to embed a PDF in Word:
http://www.ehow.com/how_8551030_embed-pdf-word.html
 
Dave 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Rick Sparber wrote:
> Jon,
>
> I use screen captures to pull in non-pictures. I know it has limitations but
> lets me work rather fast. I'm glad the solution is just to magnify the
> drawing.
>
Sorry, I don't consider that a "solution".  At certain magnifications,
on certain screens,
the drawing appears wrong.  If you scroll it, some lines may appear and
disappear.
Ugh!

Jon

Rick Sparber wrote:
> In PDF format, all lines remain visible.
>
OK, so the problem is Word is taking a vector drawing in good PDF form
and turning
it into a bitmap graphic which loses the precise information.  When you
shrink it,
then some pixels are tossed, and if those happen to contain the line, it
just disappears.

I'm not sure what to do about this, it is typical Microsoft taking the
easy path.

Jon

On 6/26/2012 12:04 AM, Jon Elson wrote:
> Rick Sparber wrote:
>> > In PDF format, all lines remain visible.
>> >
> OK, so the problem is Word is taking a vector drawing in good PDF form
> and turning
> it into a bitmap graphic which loses the precise information.  When you
> shrink it,
> then some pixels are tossed, and if those happen to contain the line, it
> just disappears.
>
> I'm not sure what to do about this, it is typical Microsoft taking the
> easy path.

The lines are in the PDF. It is just the Adobe reader not showing them
when scaled less than one pixel.

Like I said, it shows fine here in another reader.

--

------------------------------------
	 Scott G. Henion
Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
------------------------------------

In the Atlas lathe manual, there is one column that tells you how many
thousandths to advance the compound (with it set at 29.5°) to make a proper
thread.  I didn't see it for years.  I got a big smile on my face when I did
discover it.



--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "ml_woy" <ml_woy@...> wrote:
>
> I have been attempting to cut threads for the first time and have studied some
video's by Lyle Peterson as well as reading in my Atlas manual on the procedure.
Well I got started, ground a tool bit, set the compound at 29.5 degrees, mounted
the tool centered on the work and then proceeded to try and figure out how far
the compound had to travel to cut the proper depth of thread. Now Lyle had
stated that the compound tool follows a path that is equal to the hypotenuse of
a right triangle so to get the proper depth you need to calculate the amount of
travel on the hypotenuse of the triangle for the right angle side depth travel.
>
> Now being lazy and not wanting to drag out my trig books, I decided to set a
dial indicator up in the lathe chuck and measure the amount of travel the
compound made for every .100 of travel on the dial on the compound. Sounded good
to me. So I zeroed out the dial indicator, took the slack out of the feed screw
and proceed to dial in .050 on the feed and read the dial indicator at .040. Now
proceeded to turn the feed another .050 and expected to see .080 on the dial
indicator but it actually read .087! I continued the test as shown in the tables
below with the compound set at 29 degrees as well as "0" degrees. Not once did I
get the expected reading.
>
> Can anybody tell me why my logic is wrong or why I am getting these readings?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  Compound Slide set @ 29.5 degrees
> 	 Compound Rest Settings
>  Dial Indicator 0 +50 +100 -50 -0
>  0 0 0.040 0.087 0.045 0.002   .002
>  0 0 0.039 0.086 0.088 0.001   .001
>  0 0 0.041 0.088 0.046 0.003   .003
>  0 0 0.039 0.086 0.044 0.001   .001
>  Mean Average 0 0.0397 0.0687 0.0445 0.0017
>
>  Compound Slide set @ 0 Degrees
> 	 Compound Rest Settings
>  Dial Indicator 0 +50 +100 -50 -0
>  0 0 0.048 0.101 0.052 0.008   .008
>  0 0 0.049 0.101 0.056 0.002   .002
>  0 0 0.049 0.102 0.055 0.004   .004
>  0 0 0.049 0.102 0.055 0.004   .004
>  Mean Average 0.0488 0.015 0.0537 0.0045  .0045
>
> M.L. Woy
>

Having done a bit of threading recently, I realised the amount to advance
the cutter actually depends on it's shape - whether its a perfect V or if
it has a flat/radius on the point.

Assuming a Unified or ISO metric thread...

If it is a perfect V then it would be advanced 7/8 of the thread pitch
(plus a bit depending on the fit?). This is straight in, not on an angle.
Advancing on a 30 degree angle, the distance works out to 1.01 times the
thread pitch, close enough to 1.

However if the tool has a flat on the point then it should be advanced less
than this. I've found if I don't have a flat then it will make its own
pretty quickly!

I don't have a good way to measure the flat, so I will continue to just cut
the thread until it is close, and then keep testing until it fits the nut
or whatever. This seems to be standard practice.

However this made me think: could a gauge be used, something like a
fishtail gauge with a V cut into it. You put between the work and the
threading tool, and it is precisely sized so you know how far out the tool
is. This means the shape of the point would be irrelevant.

Anyway, my favourite reference is the wikipedia article and the diagram in
particular:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Thread_Standard

James

On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 8:48 AM, ml_woy <ml_woy@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> I have been attempting to cut threads for the first time and have studied
> some video's by Lyle Peterson as well as reading in my Atlas manual on the
> procedure. Well I got started, ground a tool bit, set the compound at 29.5
> degrees, mounted the tool centered on the work and then proceeded to try
> and figure out how far the compound had to travel to cut the proper depth
> of thread. Now Lyle had stated that the compound tool follows a path that
> is equal to the hypotenuse of a right triangle so to get the proper depth
> you need to calculate the amount of travel on the hypotenuse of the
> triangle for the right angle side depth travel.
>
> Now being lazy and not wanting to drag out my trig books, I decided to set
> a dial indicator up in the lathe chuck and measure the amount of travel the
> compound made for every .100 of travel on the dial on the compound. Sounded
> good to me. So I zeroed out the dial indicator, took the slack out of the
> feed screw and proceed to dial in .050 on the feed and read the dial
> indicator at .040. Now proceeded to turn the feed another .050 and expected
> to see .080 on the dial indicator but it actually read .087! I continued
> the test as shown in the tables below with the compound set at 29 degrees
> as well as "0" degrees. Not once did I get the expected reading.
>
> Can anybody tell me why my logic is wrong or why I am getting these
> readings?
>
> Compound Slide set @ 29.5 degrees
> Compound Rest Settings
> Dial Indicator 0 +50 +100 -50 -0
> 0 0 0.040 0.087 0.045 0.002 .002
> 0 0 0.039 0.086 0.088 0.001 .001
> 0 0 0.041 0.088 0.046 0.003 .003
> 0 0 0.039 0.086 0.044 0.001 .001
> Mean Average 0 0.0397 0.0687 0.0445 0.0017
>
> Compound Slide set @ 0 Degrees
> Compound Rest Settings
> Dial Indicator 0 +50 +100 -50 -0
> 0 0 0.048 0.101 0.052 0.008 .008
> 0 0 0.049 0.101 0.056 0.002 .002
> 0 0 0.049 0.102 0.055 0.004 .004
> 0 0 0.049 0.102 0.055 0.004 .004
> Mean Average 0.0488 0.015 0.0537 0.0045 .0045
>
> M.L. Woy
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The four-terminal connection is properly called a Kelvin-connection and was
  invented in 1861 by professor William Thomson (who later became Lord
Kelvin).  For further information look up "four-terminal connection" in
Wickipedia.

Bruce

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a 12" 101.28930 lathe with the pull out cross slide feed knob and i just
purchased a lever set upp off of a newer lathe.  Has anyone ever done this
modification before on a similiar lathe?  Is it as simple as locating and
drilling 2 holes and installing the lever assy?

Thanks
Bob

Bob I don't know about your 12in. but a person posted a video on YouTube of his
install on a 10in lathe.  It looked simple enough and I was going to try it
myself on my 10.  But finding the arm assembly is proving to be a problem. 
Clausing has been checking to see if the arm is available but they have been
working on it for two months.  If I could find a drawing of the arm I could make
one myself.  If you have any better luck with parts or a drawing of the arm,
drop me a message please .  good luck Michael


--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, "buickgsx455man" <buickgsx455man@...>
wrote:
>
> I have a 12" 101.28930 lathe with the pull out cross slide feed knob and i
just purchased a lever set upp off of a newer lathe.  Has anyone ever done this
modification before on a similiar lathe?  Is it as simple as locating and
drilling 2 holes and installing the lever assy?
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>

Hello group

I have on hand an unused W68-2 boring table & vise that is designed for the 10'
lathe, AFAIK. It mounts on the cross-slide in place of the compound. I assume
that it will fit on my 12" craftsman atlas lathe, but it seems to me that it
will be 1 inch lower than intended. Although that may not limit it's usefulness
for work clamped to the t-slots, I would guess that function of the vise jaws
would be compromised.

Anyone have success with this table on a 12" lathe? Or should I make it
available to an owner of a 10" lathe, where we know it will work ?

TIA

Steve

one other  answer is to  just  cut a  V thread( .866 X 1 / TPI) septh  & file
off 1/8 of .866 ,,,,root  is  not as  strong but  thrds are  less likely  to
strip......OR  turn  the  flat on  first &  thrd in 7/8  of the  V thrd
depth....
   best   wishes
doc



-----Original Message-----
From: James Bishop <bishopaj@...>
To: atlas_craftsman <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 1:06 am
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Travel of the Compound Rest


Having done a bit of threading recently, I realised the amount to advance
he cutter actually depends on it's shape - whether its a perfect V or if
t has a flat/radius on the point.
Assuming a Unified or ISO metric thread...
If it is a perfect V then it would be advanced 7/8 of the thread pitch
plus a bit depending on the fit?). This is straight in, not on an angle.
dvancing on a 30 degree angle, the distance works out to 1.01 times the
hread pitch, close enough to 1.
However if the tool has a flat on the point then it should be advanced less
han this. I've found if I don't have a flat then it will make its own
retty quickly!
I don't have a good way to measure the flat, so I will continue to just cut
he thread until it is close, and then keep testing until it fits the nut
r whatever. This seems to be standard practice.
However this made me think: could a gauge be used, something like a
ishtail gauge with a V cut into it. You put between the work and the
hreading tool, and it is precisely sized so you know how far out the tool
s. This means the shape of the point would be irrelevant.
Anyway, my favourite reference is the wikipedia article and the diagram in
articular:
ttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Thread_Standard
James
On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 8:48 AM, ml_woy <ml_woy@...> wrote:
> **


  I have been attempting to cut threads for the first time and have studied
  some video's by Lyle Peterson as well as reading in my Atlas manual on the
  procedure. Well I got started, ground a tool bit, set the compound at 29.5
  degrees, mounted the tool centered on the work and then proceeded to try
  and figure out how far the compound had to travel to cut the proper depth
  of thread. Now Lyle had stated that the compound tool follows a path that
  is equal to the hypotenuse of a right triangle so to get the proper depth
  you need to calculate the amount of travel on the hypotenuse of the
  triangle for the right angle side depth travel.

  Now being lazy and not wanting to drag out my trig books, I decided to set
  a dial indicator up in the lathe chuck and measure the amount of travel the
  compound made for every .100 of travel on the dial on the compound. Sounded
  good to me. So I zeroed out the dial indicator, took the slack out of the
  feed screw and proceed to dial in .050 on the feed and read the dial
  indicator at .040. Now proceeded to turn the feed another .050 and expected
  to see .080 on the dial indicator but it actually read .087! I continued
  the test as shown in the tables below with the compound set at 29 degrees
  as well as "0" degrees. Not once did I get the expected reading.

  Can anybody tell me why my logic is wrong or why I am getting these
  readings?

  Compound Slide set @ 29.5 degrees
  Compound Rest Settings
  Dial Indicator 0 +50 +100 -50 -0
  0 0 0.040 0.087 0.045 0.002 .002
  0 0 0.039 0.086 0.088 0.001 .001
  0 0 0.041 0.088 0.046 0.003 .003
  0 0 0.039 0.086 0.044 0.001 .001
  Mean Average 0 0.0397 0.0687 0.0445 0.0017

  Compound Slide set @ 0 Degrees
  Compound Rest Settings
  Dial Indicator 0 +50 +100 -50 -0
  0 0 0.048 0.101 0.052 0.008 .008
  0 0 0.049 0.101 0.056 0.002 .002
  0 0 0.049 0.102 0.055 0.004 .004
  0 0 0.049 0.102 0.055 0.004 .004
  Mean Average 0.0488 0.015 0.0537 0.0045 .0045

  M.L. Woy





Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Rick,


This is the article reference that I submitted to the mail group, and the
articles you were posting at the time.  It's not at all clear that you were
using a four-wire connection in the "An Ultra Low Tech, Low Cost Electronic Edge
Finder  **"


It was this document that I was referencing when pointing out a need to
acknowledge Keithley's contribution as it also provides the OP amp circuitry for
a low ohm detector.

I don't claim to know the derivation of the four wire connection at the time - I
just located the article that puts four wire connection and op amps to use, and
sent it your way.


You all can draw your own conclusions.

- Richard



________________________________
  From: Richard Schaal <rschaal_95135@...>
To: "atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com" <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] damaging bearings with current


Hi Rick,

I went to your website, and looked at two documents that seemed to be related to
the current topic, but neither of them had schematics that would get you a real
big current through the probes.

The "A Precision Electronic Cutter Touchdown Detector" document wouldn't do it,
and the "An Ultra Low Tech, Low Cost Electronic Edge Finder  **" document won't
either due to the insulated cutter approach.

I admit that I've not followed this thread closely, but did you put out a new
link to the draft document for this particular approach?  Seems to me that
perhaps you could use the op amps differently to amplify the reading without
drastically increasing the test current even in this low resistance case.

If I get you correctly at this point, are you saying that the expected
resistance measurement at the moment of  touchdown of the cutter on the work
piece will be flat zero, and that the resistance between the cutter and the work
piece, taking the longer path through the tool holder, carriage, ways and
spindle will be more than that. -- maybe 0.02 ohms? and this would be in a case
where the cutter isn't insulated?

In any case, perhaps you could make use of one or more of the circuits shown
in 

http://www.keithley.com/knowledgecenter/knowledgecenter_pdf/LowLevMsHandbk_1.pdf\
 

to reduce your test current so you can tell _ZERO_ from some resistance with
confidence that you aren't arc welding your bearings.


Regards,

Richard




________________________________
  From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 7:05 PM
Subject: RE: [atlas_craftsman] damaging bearings with current


 
Bruce,

The question I have now is will a 20 mV potential open circuit and 1 amp short
circuit cause a spark. I have read two white papers that get close to saying
"no" but I need more info. I have contacted one author and plan to contact the
other.

See my other email on what I'm trying to do and why bypass the bearings doesn't
help.

Thanks,

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bruce .
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 4:25 AM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] damaging bearings with current

1) Yes, 1.5V can give a spark.  Try it with a dry cell and a wire.

2) Conceivably, a 1.5V spark could cause damage.  A 12V spark certainly can. 
It's called welding.  Or EDM.

3) Sparks will only happen if power is interrupted AND conditions are right for
sparking.  But it seems a good bet they will occur.  If electrical contact is
continuous, there will be no sparking.  But how do you guarantee that through
bearings?

4) The damage a spark will do is current-related.  The very low resistance may
(depending upon total resistance) correspond to high current.  If your circuit
will tolerate it, you might use a resistor (maybe 100k ohms) to limit current.

5) The damage sparks will do will not be as dramatic as the train Jon mentions. 
Rather, I'd expect bearings to become pitted OR speckled with "weld splatter". 
In the long run, this could still cause serious damage.

6) Motors transmit electric power to the rotor all the time using carbon brushes
and copper rings.  In this case, the copper is not essential, but you want to
make contact at a non-essential part or an added sacrificial part, and a
pressed-on copper ring might be just the
ticket.    You can get the carbon rod from the inside of a standard
(dead) zinc-acid battery.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Richard,

I did read the reference and it had a lot of good techniques.

The article that detailed my use of a 4 wire connection was "hidden" in the
electronics section because I did not think is was ready for machinists to use.
You can see it at

http://rick.sparber.org/electronics/ueef.pdf

starting at page 5. I also used a trick not found in the Keithley book that
involves measuring the voltage drop across one of the high current probes.

As previously stated, Lord Kelvin invented the 4 wire connection and I did give
me credit.

Not sure what conclusions I should draw from the Keithley book except that they
made a lot of good test equipment.

Rick


-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Richard Schaal
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 1:56 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] damaging bearings with current

Hi Rick,


This is the article reference that I submitted to the mail group, and the
articles you were posting at the time.  It's not at all clear that you were
using a four-wire connection in the "An Ultra Low Tech, Low Cost Electronic Edge
Finder  **"


It was this document that I was referencing when pointing out a need to
acknowledge Keithley's contribution as it also provides the OP amp circuitry for
a low ohm detector.

I don't claim to know the derivation of the four wire connection at the time - I
just located the article that puts four wire connection and op amps to use, and
sent it your way.


You all can draw your own conclusions.

- Richard



________________________________
  From: Richard Schaal <rschaal_95135@...>
To: "atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com" <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 8:05 PM
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] damaging bearings with current


Hi Rick,

I went to your website, and looked at two documents that seemed to be related to
the current topic, but neither of them had schematics that would get you a real
big current through the probes.

The "A Precision Electronic Cutter Touchdown Detector" document wouldn't do it,
and the "An Ultra Low Tech, Low Cost Electronic Edge Finder  **" document won't
either due to the insulated cutter approach.

I admit that I've not followed this thread closely, but did you put out a new
link to the draft document for this particular approach?  Seems to me that
perhaps you could use the op amps differently to amplify the reading without
drastically increasing the test current even in this low resistance case.

If I get you correctly at this point, are you saying that the expected
resistance measurement at the moment of  touchdown of the cutter on the work
piece will be flat zero, and that the resistance between the cutter and the work
piece, taking the longer path through the tool holder, carriage, ways and
spindle will be more than that. -- maybe 0.02 ohms? and this would be in a case
where the cutter isn't insulated?

In any case, perhaps you could make use of one or more of the circuits shown in

http://www.keithley.com/knowledgecenter/knowledgecenter_pdf/LowLevMsHandbk_1.pdf

to reduce your test current so you can tell _ZERO_ from some resistance with
confidence that you aren't arc welding your bearings.


Regards,

Richard




________________________________
  From: Rick Sparber <rgsparber@...>
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 7:05 PM
Subject: RE: [atlas_craftsman] damaging bearings with current



Bruce,

The question I have now is will a 20 mV potential open circuit and 1 amp short
circuit cause a spark. I have read two white papers that get close to saying
"no" but I need more info. I have contacted one author and plan to contact the
other.

See my other email on what I'm trying to do and why bypass the bearings doesn't
help.

Thanks,

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bruce .
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 4:25 AM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] damaging bearings with current

1) Yes, 1.5V can give a spark.  Try it with a dry cell and a wire.

2) Conceivably, a 1.5V spark could cause damage.  A 12V spark certainly can. 
It's called welding.  Or EDM.

3) Sparks will only happen if power is interrupted AND conditions are right for
sparking.  But it seems a good bet they will occur.  If electrical contact is
continuous, there will be no sparking.  But how do you guarantee that through
bearings?

4) The damage a spark will do is current-related.  The very low resistance may
(depending upon total resistance) correspond to high current.  If your circuit
will tolerate it, you might use a resistor (maybe 100k ohms) to limit current.

5) The damage sparks will do will not be as dramatic as the train Jon mentions. 
Rather, I'd expect bearings to become pitted OR speckled with "weld splatter". 
In the long run, this could still cause serious damage.

6) Motors transmit electric power to the rotor all the time using carbon brushes
and copper rings.  In this case, the copper is not essential, but you want to
make contact at a non-essential part or an added sacrificial part, and a
pressed-on copper ring might be just the
ticket.    You can get the carbon rod from the inside of a standard
(dead) zinc-acid battery.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

TO UNSUBSCRIBE FROM THE LIST:
You do this yourself by sending a message to:
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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/atlas_craftsman_projects/

To see or edit your personal settings, view the photos, files or links
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The Atlas-Craftsman Wiki is at
http://pico-systems.com/cgi-bin/Atlas-wiki/Atlas.cgi
Please submit things you think will be useful to Jon Elson at
mailto://elson@pico-systems.comYahoo! Groups Links

I recently acquired an Atlas MFC mill with the Marvin Vertical Milling head and
I'm starting to get it into working shape. I've ordered new nuts for the lead
screws but I'm having some trouble removing one of them (Atlas part no. M1-11).
I've driven the pin out of the lead screw extension but I can't figure out how
to remove the extension so I can get the nut off. I know this probably sounds
like a rookie question but I'd appreciate some help with this.

Thank you,
Jason

I'm sure your approach would work but it is way too much effort. This last
article had about 40 pages of figures with text. It is hard to beat the
speed of using screen print and past. For those pages with super thin lines,
it is reasonable to ask the reader to zoom in a bit.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wa5cab@...
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 8:28 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder

OK.  Then write the text in Word, convert it to PDF, and in whatever PDF
editor you are using, Insert the schematic.

Bill,

I always wondered what .wmf format would do for me.

The latest version has the full schematic included with thicker lines.

http://rick.sparber.org/sceef.pdf

Thanks,

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scott Henion
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 8:39 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder

  On 6/25/2012 7:48 PM, Rick Sparber wrote:
> I used DesignCad V14 to draw the schematic and I then use a screen
> print to put it into the Word file. DesignCad can output PDF but not
> much else that is useful for Word.
>
> Rick

DesignCAD has an export function. One of the options in my old version is
Windows Meta File (.wmf). That should be importable to Word and be
resizable.

BTW, it shows fine here in the default zoom. I don't use Adobe reader due to
its bugs. In PDF-Xchange it views fine unless I zoom out below 80%.

--

------------------------------------
	 Scott G. Henion
Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36

Dave,

I read the ehow article. It appears that they are dealing with pdf in Word
by linking to it. If I understand that correctly, it won't help those that
print out my articles.

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David Vollrath
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 8:58 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder

Rick,
 
You can embed the PDF drawing that you output from the CAD program in the
Word document.  Once you embed the PDF just use Word to Print-To-PDF to
create the final file.
Here's a link on how to embed a PDF in Word:
http://www.ehow.com/how_8551030_embed-pdf-word.html
 
Dave 

Jon,

Would you like a refund? ;-))

Rick

-----Original Message-----
From: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jon Elson
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 8:59 PM
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] new article: A Self Compensating Electronic
Edge Finder

Rick Sparber wrote:
> Jon,
>
> I use screen captures to pull in non-pictures. I know it has
> limitations but lets me work rather fast. I'm glad the solution is
> just to magnify the drawing.
>
Sorry, I don't consider that a "solution".  At certain magnifications, on
certain screens, the drawing appears wrong.  If you scroll it, some lines
may appear and disappear.
Ugh!

Jon