This article says a lot of things that I fully agree with. The choice of extract
vs. grain use is certainly factored by time, expense, quality assurance,
freshness and final taste. The last is probably the most important.

I wouldn't want a new brewer to take on an all grain challenge until they know
what to expect from the boil, fermentation, packaging and have a handle on
sanitation. It is just simpler to concentrate and master those issues with
extract before taking on the variables of all grain brewing. In my experience,
this takes about four batches.  After that, it is usually just a choice about
equipment, space and time.

On a commercial scale, the economics vary wildly and where people have to handle
multiple jobs, the time savings can be a solid payoff. I did the math and found
for a 10bbl brewery, the cost difference of grain (including labor and heating
mash water) vs extract still netted more than $33K/yr. saved with grain.

On the plus side, we have higher quality extracts available than ever. There was
a time in the not-so-distant past where quality and purity were highly suspect.
Extract does oxidize and darken, so freshness is certainly a key. There have
been a lot of awards won with extract.

KEv.




________________________________
From: gyg1345 <gunnyg@...>
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, December 14, 2009 11:44:54 AM
Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] MALT EXTRACT: PRIDE and PREJUDICE

 
MALT EXTRACT: PRIDE and PREJUDICE

http://www.maltprod ucts.com/ news.malt. extract.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Brewing with malt extract is like eating ready-meals.. full of things and
tastes that are someone else's idea of what you should have - not your own.



(Runs and hides in a corner with hands over ears)





From: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com [mailto:bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of t2000kwt
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 11:00 AM
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Re: MALT EXTRACT: PRIDE and PREJUDICE





I brew using extract with grains and also using all grains. I've brewed some
very good beers both ways.

The only thing I don't like about using extract only (with no specialty
grains) is that you're somewhat limited to brewing styles that the
manufacturer made it for. Adding specialty grains adds a lot more
versatility to what you can do with it. Some competition winners used
extract. It's certainly not like comparing Kraft macaroni and cheese to a
home-made version. Extracts are, for the most part, a quality product.

All grain brewing adds complexity, of course, but there's nothing like the
wonderful aromas from the mashing process. And there may be some styles that
would be difficult, if not impossible, to reproduce, unless one can find a
malt extract with the exact blend of grains used in the mash before the
extraction process. But so far, I've not felt constrained by brewing with
extract and specialty grains. I've been able to brew every style I wanted to
grew.

One problem I did come across is that flavored malt extracts aren't all the
same. One company's amber malt extract may be quite different from another
company's. I found that out when trying to duplicate a recipe. It was
nothing like what I had been brewing, and the only difference was the
extract. You probably would have no issues if you used extra pale extracts
and did the flavoring yourself with specialty grains.

Some of the flavored malt extracts do a great job, though. I've bought
ingredients kits that had canned flavored malt extract that made great beer.
Of course, the stuff was made just for that style.

Extract allows me to brew when I don't have many hours to set aside for a
long brew day. It's the best way to get started in brewing since you don't
have as much to learn and don't need as much equipment. And it can make very
good beer!

Don





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I brew using extract with grains and also using all grains. I've brewed some
very good beers both ways.

The only thing I don't like about using extract only (with no specialty grains)
is that you're somewhat limited to brewing styles that the manufacturer made it
for. Adding specialty grains adds a lot more versatility to what you can do with
it. Some competition winners used extract. It's certainly not like comparing
Kraft macaroni and cheese to a home-made version. Extracts are, for the most
part, a quality product.

All grain brewing adds complexity, of course, but there's nothing like the
wonderful aromas from the mashing process. And there may be some styles that
would be difficult, if not impossible, to reproduce, unless one can find a malt
extract with the exact blend of grains used in the mash before the extraction
process. But so far, I've not felt constrained by brewing with extract and
specialty grains. I've been able to brew every style I wanted to grew.

One problem I did come across is that flavored malt extracts aren't all the
same. One company's amber malt extract may be quite different from another
company's. I found that out when trying to duplicate a recipe. It was nothing
like what I had been brewing, and the only difference was the extract. You
probably would have no issues if you used extra pale extracts and did the
flavoring yourself with specialty grains.

Some of the flavored malt extracts do a great job, though. I've bought
ingredients kits that had canned flavored malt extract that made great beer. Of
course, the stuff was made just for that style.

Extract allows me to brew when I don't have many hours to set aside for a long
brew day. It's the best way to get started in brewing since you don't have as
much to learn and don't need as much equipment. And it can make very good beer!

Don

Glad to hear from someone agreeable to the honest truth!
;)
Dick Gaines
*****

--- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...> wrote:
>
> HEAR !  HEAR !
>
> My view for some time.
>
>  I live in FLORIDA.  I can't brew outside int he summer. Too HOT ! I brew
with extracts and get good beers as long as I brew with late extract addition
>
>
>
> Yodar
>
> words MEAN things
>
>
>
> "Scholarly debate about its various clauses has been non-stop since the
document became the law of the land. But one aspect of the Constitution is
beyond debate: it is a document entirely constructed to limit the power of the
government, not the people."
>
> --Arnold Ahlert
>
> --- On Mon, 12/14/09, gyg1345 <gunnyg@...> wrote:
>
> From: gyg1345 <gunnyg@...>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>       MALT EXTRACT: PRIDE and PREJUDICE
>
>
>
> http://www.maltprod ucts.com/ news.malt. extract.html
>
>
>
> Malt extract offers excellent quality and versatility and is perfect in some
setting. So how did it get a bad rap?
>
> By Michael Mandelbaum as published in the September - October issue of "The
New Brewer" Magazine for Micro and Pub Brewers
>
>
>
> Just about any product we use today has been processed in one way or another.
We accept that fact because the people who are doing the processing - whether
they're pasteurizing milk, weaving fabrics, or turning cows into steaks - do
what they do better than we could. They have more know-how. And experience. And
equipment. They do it less expensively than we could, more consistently and
better.
>
>
>
> Brewers, too, have traditionally depended on others to produce the ingredients
and equipment they need to make beer. Though there was time when individual
brewers grew their own grain, cultivated their own yeast, pumped their own
water, and stoked their own stoves, that degree of self-sufficiency isn't
possible today, and if it were, it wouldn't make good business sense. Brewers
buy their grain, yeast, water and energy from specialists who produce such
things better and less expensively. This gives brewers time to brew beer, which
their suppliers and others buy from them.
>
>
>
> Doesn't it make equal sense to brew with extract? "There's no doubt in my mind
that brewers can make some great commercial beers using malt extract," said Mike
O'Brien, marketing director of the Michigan-based Pico Brewing Systems. "Most
brewers refuse to believe it, but their disbelief is an intolerance not based on
science."
>
>
>
> That brewing with extract has an image problem is no news to the brewing
industry. Whether that image is warranted, however, is another issue. "There's a
sort of "instant-coffee- versus-home- ground-coffee" mentality," O'Brien said
about using malt extract. "But that mentality is based on half-truths and
innuendo. It certainly doesn't hold true with the new methods of extract
production."
>
>
>
> Basically, there arc five reasons why brewing with extract makes sense:
>
> (Excerpt Only--Continued Link Below...)
>
> http://www.maltprod ucts.com/ news.malt. extract.html
>
> ____________ ______
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

HEAR !  HEAR !

My view for some time.

 I live in FLORIDA.  I can't brew outside int he summer. Too HOT ! I brew with
extracts and get good beers as long as I brew with late extract addition



Yodar

words MEAN things



"Scholarly debate about its various clauses has been non-stop since the document
became the law of the land. But one aspect of the Constitution is beyond debate:
it is a document entirely constructed to limit the power of the government, not
the people."

--Arnold Ahlert

--- On Mon, 12/14/09, gyg1345 <gunnyg@...> wrote:

From: gyg1345 <gunnyg@...>







 









       MALT EXTRACT: PRIDE and PREJUDICE



http://www.maltprod ucts.com/ news.malt. extract.html



Malt extract offers excellent quality and versatility and is perfect in some
setting. So how did it get a bad rap?

By Michael Mandelbaum as published in the September - October issue of "The New
Brewer" Magazine for Micro and Pub Brewers



Just about any product we use today has been processed in one way or another. We
accept that fact because the people who are doing the processing - whether
they're pasteurizing milk, weaving fabrics, or turning cows into steaks - do
what they do better than we could. They have more know-how. And experience. And
equipment. They do it less expensively than we could, more consistently and
better.



Brewers, too, have traditionally depended on others to produce the ingredients
and equipment they need to make beer. Though there was time when individual
brewers grew their own grain, cultivated their own yeast, pumped their own
water, and stoked their own stoves, that degree of self-sufficiency isn't
possible today, and if it were, it wouldn't make good business sense. Brewers
buy their grain, yeast, water and energy from specialists who produce such
things better and less expensively. This gives brewers time to brew beer, which
their suppliers and others buy from them.



Doesn't it make equal sense to brew with extract? "There's no doubt in my mind
that brewers can make some great commercial beers using malt extract," said Mike
O'Brien, marketing director of the Michigan-based Pico Brewing Systems. "Most
brewers refuse to believe it, but their disbelief is an intolerance not based on
science."



That brewing with extract has an image problem is no news to the brewing
industry. Whether that image is warranted, however, is another issue. "There's a
sort of "instant-coffee- versus-home- ground-coffee" mentality," O'Brien said
about using malt extract. "But that mentality is based on half-truths and
innuendo. It certainly doesn't hold true with the new methods of extract
production."



Basically, there arc five reasons why brewing with extract makes sense:

(Excerpt Only--Continued Link Below...)

http://www.maltprod ucts.com/ news.malt. extract.html

____________ ______

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

MALT EXTRACT: PRIDE and PREJUDICE

http://www.maltproducts.com/news.malt.extract.html

Malt extract offers excellent quality and versatility and is perfect in some
setting. So how did it get a bad rap?
By Michael Mandelbaum as published in the September - October issue of "The New
Brewer" Magazine for Micro and Pub Brewers

Just about any product we use today has been processed in one way or another. We
accept that fact because the people who are doing the processing - whether
they're pasteurizing milk, weaving fabrics, or turning cows into steaks - do
what they do better than we could. They have more know-how. And experience. And
equipment. They do it less expensively than we could, more consistently and
better.

Brewers, too, have traditionally depended on others to produce the ingredients
and equipment they need to make beer. Though there was time when individual
brewers grew their own grain, cultivated their own yeast, pumped their own
water, and stoked their own stoves, that degree of self-sufficiency isn't
possible today, and if it were, it wouldn't make good business sense. Brewers
buy their grain, yeast, water and energy from specialists who produce such
things better and less expensively. This gives brewers time to brew beer, which
their suppliers and others buy from them.

Doesn't it make equal sense to brew with extract? "There's no doubt in my mind
that brewers can make some great commercial beers using malt extract," said Mike
O'Brien, marketing director of the Michigan-based Pico Brewing Systems. "Most
brewers refuse to believe it, but their disbelief is an intolerance not based on
science."

That brewing with extract has an image problem is no news to the brewing
industry. Whether that image is warranted, however, is another issue. "There's a
sort of "instant-coffee-versus-home-ground-coffee" mentality," O'Brien said
about using malt extract. "But that mentality is based on half-truths and
innuendo. It certainly doesn't hold true with the new methods of extract
production."

Basically, there arc five reasons why brewing with extract makes sense:
(Excerpt Only--Continued Link Below...)
http://www.maltproducts.com/news.malt.extract.html
__________________

Thanks for all the great advice.  Hopefully I've dodged the bullet and this
batch will turn out okay in time for the holidays.  I didn't know a batch could
work that fast.  Now I do.  In my past attempts, I was usually thinking that it
would never quit bubbling.
Thanks again,
Randy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

i started making wine before beer. racking to carboy is essential, sometimes
several times. so when i started brewing, this "optional" step seemed like a no
brainer. it certainly doesn't hurt if you want  nice clear brew. but i've been
hearing and reading lately that many brewers are not doing secondary any more.
it isn't necessary and exposes your brew to potential infections one more time.
careful racking from the primary bucket to a carboy for priming has been working
for me for a while now. i mostly bottle, so a little more sediment is going to
occur anyway. if you are brewing light colored beers for competition, or bulk
aging, racking might be worth it.
  i await the debate that will ensue from this with interest.
bill keiser

>   The beer is finished fermenting. Get it off all that extra yeast at
>   once - rack it into a clearing vessel ASAP and get some gelatin or
>   Isinglass in it to clear it before racking it again. Too much yeast
>   breeds meaty, "yeast-bite" off-flavors.

>   Bob

--- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, <rgnewberry@...> wrote:
>

> Now, my questions;
> 1. Could it have worked in that short period of time?

Yes, and your fermenter seems to have a leak, which is not all that uncommon.
Assuming it's plastic, your lid didn't seal properly and it let out the escaping
CO2. Your hydrometer is the only way to know if it actually has finished, and
according to your reading, it has.


> 2. If it is finished, will the new yeast I've added come to life when I add
the sugar and cap the bottles?
>

The yeast will, at worst, create some cloudiness, and shouldn't affect the
flavor, assuming it's the same yeast. If it's a different yeast, it might have a
higher attenuation and you would then let it sit for a few more days to ferment
some more.

You can leave the beer set for a while longer for it to clear, preferably in a
container that seals better (like a glass carboy) and let the yeast drop out of
suspension, but since the beer is already fermented, it may just fall to the
bottom anyway.

It should clear out in the bottle eventually if it's a bit cloudy now. The
original yeast would have been available to carbonate the bottled beer unless it
had sat in the fermenter for a few months. The new yeast won't hurt anything.

My only concern would be if the yeast you added after the ferment was over was a
different yeast and if it had a higher attenuation.

Donald

Let it sit.  i've had batches take 4 or 5 days to kick off.  It ain't good
and I've started doing yeast starters recently, but I think your beer is
good goods...

On Wed, Dec 9, 2009 at 1:15 PM, Mike Firosz <mikfir@...> wrote:

>
>
> It sounds like you fermented in a bucket.  If that is the case, your beer
> is probably fine.  Buckets usually leak around the edges and tend to show
> little or no activity in the bubbler.
> Mike
>
> --- On Wed, 12/9/09, rgnewberry@... <rgnewberry%40earthlink.net><
> rgnewberry@... <rgnewberry%40earthlink.net>> wrote:
>
> From: rgnewberry@... <rgnewberry%40earthlink.net> <
> rgnewberry@... <rgnewberry%40earthlink.net>>
> Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] problem
> To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com <bathtubbrewers%40yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 11:25 AM
>
>
>
>
> I have a strange problem that I hope someone can help me with. I am new to
> the list and fairly new to homebrewing. I made a batch of Kolsch last Friday
> and everything went as planned according to the recipe. (Brewers Best) The
> SG was 38 before I pitched the yeast. The date was good on the packet. I
> placed the bucket in a dark place and maintained aprox. 70 degrees. I used
> spring water, by the way.
>
> Monday comes and I've seen no activity. Zilch. The airgap was working fine.
> I drove 2 hours and got another packet of yeast. When I opened the lid there
> was evidence that it had foamed up sometime during the 3 1/2 days and
> settled back down. It smelled like finished product but I couldn't believe
> that it had worked in the few hours that I was out of it's sight over the 3
> days. (It's in my office, covered up with a towel) All my previous batches
> have taken many days, even weeks to finish fermenting. I should have checked
> the SG, but didn't.
>
> Anyway, against my better judgment, I pitched the new yeast Monday
> afternoon and today, still no activity. I checked the SG and it is 8.
>
> Now, my questions;
> 1. Could it have worked in that short period of time?
> 2. If it is finished, will the new yeast I've added come to life when I add
> the sugar and cap the bottles?
>
> Sorry for the long email and thanks for your help in advance.
> Randy in Virginia
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

It sounds like you fermented in a bucket.  If that is the case, your beer is
probably fine.  Buckets usually leak around the edges and tend to show little
or no activity in the bubbler.
Mike

--- On Wed, 12/9/09, rgnewberry@... <rgnewberry@...> wrote:


From: rgnewberry@... <rgnewberry@...>
Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] problem
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, December 9, 2009, 11:25 AM


 



I have a strange problem that I hope someone can help me with. I am new to the
list and fairly new to homebrewing. I made a batch of Kolsch last Friday and
everything went as planned according to the recipe. (Brewers Best) The SG was 38
before I pitched the yeast. The date was good on the packet. I placed the bucket
in a dark place and maintained aprox. 70 degrees. I used spring water, by the
way.

Monday comes and I've seen no activity. Zilch. The airgap was working fine. I
drove 2 hours and got another packet of yeast. When I opened the lid there was
evidence that it had foamed up sometime during the 3 1/2 days and settled back
down. It smelled like finished product but I couldn't believe that it had worked
in the few hours that I was out of it's sight over the 3 days. (It's in my
office, covered up with a towel) All my previous batches have taken many days,
even weeks to finish fermenting. I should have checked the SG, but didn't.

Anyway, against my better judgment, I pitched the new yeast Monday afternoon and
today, still no activity. I checked the SG and it is 8.

Now, my questions;
1. Could it have worked in that short period of time?
2. If it is finished, will the new yeast I've added come to life when I add the
sugar and cap the bottles?

Sorry for the long email and thanks for your help in advance.
Randy in Virginia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Bob.  I will transfer it now.
Randy
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Bob Davis
   To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:37 AM
   Subject: Re: [Bathtub Brewers] problem



   rgnewberry@... wrote:
   > I have a strange problem that I hope someone can help me with. I am
   > new to the list and fairly new to homebrewing. I made a batch of
   > Kolsch last Friday and everything went as planned according to the
   > recipe. (Brewers Best) The SG was 38 before I pitched the yeast.
   > The date was good on the packet. I placed the bucket in a dark place
   > and maintained aprox. 70 degrees. I used spring water, by the way.
   >
   > Monday comes and I've seen no activity. Zilch. The airgap was
   > working fine. I drove 2 hours and got another packet of yeast. When I
   > opened the lid there was evidence that it had foamed up sometime
   > during the 3 1/2 days and settled back down. It smelled like
   > finished product but I couldn't believe that it had worked in the few
   > hours that I was out of it's sight over the 3 days. (It's in my
   > office, covered up with a towel) All my previous batches have taken
   > many days, even weeks to finish fermenting. I should have checked the
   > SG, but didn't.
   >
   > Anyway, against my better judgment, I pitched the new yeast Monday
   > afternoon and today, still no activity. I checked the SG and it is
   > 8.
   >
   > Now, my questions; 1. Could it have worked in that short period of
   > time? 2. If it is finished, will the new yeast I've added come to
   > life when I add the sugar and cap the bottles?

   1. Yes. A proper pitch and warm conditions mean an ale ferment can be
   over in as little as 12-24 hours.
   2. I doubt it. There's nothing left for the new yeast to eat, and
   carbonation is a function of sugar added, not yeast present (an
   oversimplifcation but for your case true).

   There is a valuable lesson to be learned from this: Never, ever, EVER
   trust your eyes. The airlock, krauesen, whatever, is not a gauge of the
   ferment. Always always ALWAYS use your hydrometer if you've a question
   about the state of the ferment. And if you're not sure about something,
   ASK SOMEONE. ;-)

   The beer is finished fermenting. Get it off all that extra yeast at
   once - rack it into a clearing vessel ASAP and get some gelatin or
   Isinglass in it to clear it before racking it again. Too much yeast
   breeds meaty, "yeast-bite" off-flavors.

   Cheers!

   Bob




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

rgnewberry@... wrote:
> I have a strange problem that I hope someone can help me with. I am
> new to the list and fairly new to homebrewing.  I made a batch of
> Kolsch last Friday and everything went as planned according to the
> recipe.  (Brewers Best) The SG was 38 before I pitched the yeast.
> The date was good on the packet. I placed the bucket in a dark place
> and maintained aprox. 70 degrees.  I used spring water, by the way.
>
> Monday comes and I've seen no activity. Zilch.  The airgap was
> working fine. I drove 2 hours and got another packet of yeast. When I
> opened the lid there was evidence that it had foamed up sometime
> during the 3 1/2 days and settled back down.  It smelled like
> finished product but I couldn't believe that it had worked in the few
> hours that I was out of it's sight over the 3 days. (It's in my
> office, covered up with a towel) All my previous batches have taken
> many days, even weeks to finish fermenting. I should have checked the
> SG, but didn't.
>
> Anyway, against my better judgment, I pitched the new yeast Monday
> afternoon and today, still no activity.  I checked the SG and it is
> 8.
>
> Now, my questions; 1. Could it have worked in that short period of
> time? 2. If it is finished, will the new yeast I've added come to
> life when I add the sugar and cap the bottles?

1.  Yes.  A proper pitch and warm conditions mean an ale ferment can be
over in as little as 12-24 hours.
2.  I doubt it.  There's nothing left for the new yeast to eat, and
carbonation is a function of sugar added, not yeast present (an
oversimplifcation but for your case true).

There is a valuable lesson to be learned from this: Never, ever, EVER
trust your eyes.  The airlock, krauesen, whatever, is not a gauge of the
ferment.  Always always ALWAYS use your hydrometer if you've a question
about the state of the ferment.  And if you're not sure about something,
ASK SOMEONE. ;-)

The beer is finished fermenting.  Get it off all that extra yeast at
once - rack it into a clearing vessel ASAP and get some gelatin or
Isinglass in it to clear it before racking it again.  Too much yeast
breeds meaty, "yeast-bite" off-flavors.

Cheers!

Bob

I have a strange problem that I hope someone can help me with. I am new to the
list and fairly new to homebrewing.  I made a batch of Kolsch last Friday and
everything went as planned according to the recipe.  (Brewers Best) The SG was
38 before I pitched the yeast.  The date was good on the packet. I placed the
bucket in a dark place and maintained aprox. 70 degrees.  I used spring water,
by the way.

Monday comes and I've seen no activity. Zilch.  The airgap was working fine. I
drove 2 hours and got another packet of yeast. When I opened the lid there was
evidence that it had foamed up sometime during the 3 1/2 days and settled back
down.  It smelled like finished product but I couldn't believe that it had
worked in the few hours that I was out of it's sight over the 3 days. (It's in
my office, covered up with a towel) All my previous batches have taken many
days, even weeks to finish fermenting. I should have checked the SG, but didn't.

Anyway, against my better judgment, I pitched the new yeast Monday afternoon and
today, still no activity.  I checked the SG and it is 8.

Now, my questions;
1. Could it have worked in that short period of time?
2. If it is finished, will the new yeast I've added come to life when I add the
sugar and cap the bottles?

Sorry for the long email and thanks for your help in advance.
Randy in Virginia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I hope everyone is well.  I just wanted to drop you a note to remind everyone
you can still contribute your ideas, reviews of beer making pubs, or beer making
tips on our website www.boozelife.com just by e-mailing us and letting me know
your from the group.

Our website is a humble site and we would be happy to add good content.

Have a great holiday!

Booze Life

At our next meeting, the Downriver Brewer's Guild will be opening and sharing a
single bottle of Utopias.  I will report the results.   It is a members only
event and we will each get about one ounce.

--- On Sat, 11/28/09, Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...> wrote:


From: Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...>
Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Sam Adam's has some competetiton across the pond
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 28, 2009, 4:29 PM


 





http://news. bbc.co.uk/ 2/hi/uk_news/ scotland/ north_east/ 8380412.stm

Beer w/32% alcohol content.

Not normal yeast eh?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Just to prove myself right or wrong, I tried bringing my HLT up to 160
degrees.  First, I checked the temp with my Blichmann Stainless Dial
Thermometer and then I checked the temp with my $15.00 digital, then I checked
with an alcohol thermometer.  The Blichmann and the cheap digital were only 1
degree apart.  The alcohol therm. was 5 degrees different.  Stick with the
cheap digital for everything except the HLT.  The Blichmann is screwed into the
SS fitting.
Mike

--- On Fri, 11/27/09, Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...> wrote:


From: Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...>
Subject: Re: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 27, 2009, 3:04 PM


 



Like I SAID: I got TWO digitals for that price WITH K thermocouple leads

http://www.multimet erwarehouse. com/ms6500. htm

Yodar

words MEAN things

"Scholarly debate about its various clauses has been non-stop since the document
became the law of the land. But one aspect of the Constitution is beyond debate:
it is a document entirely constructed to limit the power of the government, not
the people."

--Arnold Ahlert

--- On Fri, 11/27/09, Mike Firosz <mikfir@sbcglobal. net> wrote:

From: Mike Firosz <mikfir@sbcglobal. net>
Subject: Re: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell
To: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, November 27, 2009, 2:32 PM

 

Infrared thermometers are a bad idea.  They only measure the surface of
whatever they are aimed at.  A $15 digital thermometer with a six inch probe
will last for years and is very accurate.

Mike

--- On Wed, 11/25/09, Wizxxxz <wizxxxz@gmail. com> wrote:

From: Wizxxxz <wizxxxz@gmail. com>

Subject: Re: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell

To: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Wednesday, November 25, 2009, 5:02 PM

 

How about an inexpensive infrared thermometer?

Relatively cheap ($50-60) and pretty simple to use.

Just a thought...

Doug Rooney wrote:

> I personally use the Stainless Steel shrouded type, and at this point they

> are all installed.

>

> I do not do glass anything, most of the time, even bottles, I keg mostly :-)

>

> My 2cents YMMV

>

> ~DrDoug

>

>

>

> _____

>

> From: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:bathtubbrew ers@ yahoogroups.
com]

> On Behalf Of abethebabelincoln

> Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 12:46 PM

> To: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com

> Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell

>

>

>

>

>

> Hi and thanks for letting me in on this Brew Group

>

> I am trying to brew for the first time and have had several set backs.

> First, I thought I had everything ready to go the other day then realized my

> yeast was out dated and had to get new stuff.

> Fast Forward to today.

> I go down to my local brew supply house to pick up new yeast, some more

> sanitizer, and a thermometer. Bought a floating thermometer.

> Got everything prepped this morning and upon first check of temperature

> after setting my grain bag in to begin making my wort, I barely brush the

> thermometer against the pot and KABOOM, it shatters. Glass and those little

> pellets all in my wort. So I scrapped everything.

>

> Any suggestions? Maybe a different kind of thermometer? Thanks

>

> Sorry for the long post.

>

> -teet

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

> ------------ --------- --------- ------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

When I read the description, I see the held it a -20C (note the MINUS sign),
which seems to indivate ice distilliing. So, that seems to be different than
getting the yeast to work that high.




________________________________
From: Bob <Brewing@...>
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, November 28, 2009 8:37:44 PM
Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Re: Sam Adam's has some competetiton across the pond

 
I've never heard of yeast with this much tolerance. Is that all they do
to get it to that level of alcohol?

Bob O.

--- In bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com, Joe Strain aka Yodar
<cz52_99@... > wrote:
>
> http://news. bbc.co.uk/ 2/hi/uk_news/ scotland/ north_east/ 8380412.stm
>
> Beer w/32% alcohol content.
>
> Not normal yeast eh?
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've never heard of yeast with this much tolerance.  Is that all they do
to get it to that level of alcohol?

Bob O.

--- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, Joe Strain aka Yodar
<cz52_99@...> wrote:
>
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/north_east/8380412.stm
>
> Beer w/32% alcohol content.
>
> Not normal yeast eh?
>

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/north_east/8380412.stm

Beer w/32% alcohol content.

Not normal yeast eh?









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I tapped one of those Heiny mini's on Thursday. They only hold a little over a
gallon and it doesn't look like it would lend itself to refilling.
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: katolikus1962
   To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, November 28, 2009 12:56 PM
   Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Heineken BeerTender Minikeg Cooler



   I've noticed some pretty decent holiday pricing on this Heineken minikeg
cooler:

   http://www.surlatable.com/gs/krups-heineken-beertender-4.shtml

   It looks like a prett nice system, but it says that it can only be used with
the Heineken minikeg -- which I'm not really interested in.

   Has anyone tried to modify this product to use with the standard homebrew
minikegs? Alternatively, can the Heineken minikeg be refilled with home brew and
then reused in this BeerTender system?

   Thank you.

   - Tony





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've noticed some pretty decent holiday pricing on this Heineken minikeg cooler:

http://www.surlatable.com/gs/krups-heineken-beertender-4.shtml

It looks like a prett nice system, but it says that it can only be used with the
Heineken minikeg -- which I'm not really interested in.

Has anyone tried to modify this product to use with the standard homebrew
minikegs? Alternatively, can the Heineken minikeg be refilled with home brew and
then reused in this BeerTender system?

Thank you.

- Tony

I collect the yeast from each bottle I drink by draining the bottle into  a
sanitized quart screw cap beer bottle and keep it in the fridge for no more than
a month or two.
 
Bottles kept longer than that fail to proof , but before that make good
starters in MaltaGoya or in breads
 


Yodar
words MEAN things

"Scholarly debate about its various clauses has been non-stop since the document
became the law of the land. But one aspect of the Constitution is beyond debate:
it is a document entirely constructed to limit the power of the government, not
the people."
--Arnold Ahlert

--- On Sat, 11/28/09, filmeditorsteve <filmeditorsteve@...> wrote:


From: filmeditorsteve <filmeditorsteve@...>
Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Re: Mea culpa! Mea maxima culpa!
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 28, 2009, 11:42 AM


 



WOW you just gave me a great idea of what to do with all the yeast left at the
bottom of my home brew bottles! Looks like Steve's kitchen is gunna become a
beer AND baking center!

THANKS!!!

>
> On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@... >wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I ran out of yeast and used 2 tsp SAFALE 03
> >
> > makes equivalent of 2 large Pizzas - I used A LARGE COOKIE SHEET to make a
> > BIG rectangle, cut what to eat and froze the rest. Will make 3-meals
> >
> > It was Delicious !
> >











[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

WOW you just gave me a great idea of what to do with all the yeast left at the
bottom of my home brew bottles! Looks like Steve's kitchen is gunna become a
beer AND baking center!

THANKS!!!


>
> On Sun, Nov 22, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Joe Strain aka Yodar <cz52_99@...>wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I ran out of yeast and used 2 tsp SAFALE 03
> >
> > makes equivalent of  2 large Pizzas - I used A LARGE COOKIE SHEET to make a
> > BIG rectangle, cut what to eat and froze the rest. Will make 3-meals
> >
> > It was Delicious !
> >

Like I SAID: I got TWO digitals for that price WITH K thermocouple leads

http://www.multimeterwarehouse.com/ms6500.htm

Yodar

words MEAN things



"Scholarly debate about its various clauses has been non-stop since the document
became the law of the land. But one aspect of the Constitution is beyond debate:
it is a document entirely constructed to limit the power of the government, not
the people."

--Arnold Ahlert

--- On Fri, 11/27/09, Mike Firosz <mikfir@...> wrote:

From: Mike Firosz <mikfir@...>
Subject: Re: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, November 27, 2009, 2:32 PM







 









       Infrared thermometers are a bad idea.  They only measure the surface of
whatever they are aimed at.  A $15 digital thermometer with a six inch probe
will last for years and is very accurate.

Mike



--- On Wed, 11/25/09, Wizxxxz <wizxxxz@gmail. com> wrote:



From: Wizxxxz <wizxxxz@gmail. com>

Subject: Re: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell

To: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com

Date: Wednesday, November 25, 2009, 5:02 PM



 



How about an inexpensive infrared thermometer?



Relatively cheap ($50-60) and pretty simple to use.



Just a thought...



Doug Rooney wrote:

> I personally use the Stainless Steel shrouded type, and at this point they

> are all installed.

>

> I do not do glass anything, most of the time, even bottles, I keg mostly :-)

>

> My 2cents YMMV

>

> ~DrDoug

>

>

>

> _____

>

> From: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:bathtubbrew ers@ yahoogroups.
com]

> On Behalf Of abethebabelincoln

> Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 12:46 PM

> To: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com

> Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell

>

>

>

>

>

> Hi and thanks for letting me in on this Brew Group

>

> I am trying to brew for the first time and have had several set backs.

> First, I thought I had everything ready to go the other day then realized my

> yeast was out dated and had to get new stuff.

> Fast Forward to today.

> I go down to my local brew supply house to pick up new yeast, some more

> sanitizer, and a thermometer. Bought a floating thermometer.

> Got everything prepped this morning and upon first check of temperature

> after setting my grain bag in to begin making my wort, I barely brush the

> thermometer against the pot and KABOOM, it shatters. Glass and those little

> pellets all in my wort. So I scrapped everything.

>

> Any suggestions? Maybe a different kind of thermometer? Thanks

>

> Sorry for the long post.

>

> -teet

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

> ------------ --------- --------- ------

>

> Yahoo! Groups Links

>

>

>

>

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Infrared thermometers are a bad idea.  They only measure the surface of
whatever they are aimed at.  A $15 digital thermometer with a six inch probe
will last for years and is very accurate.
Mike

--- On Wed, 11/25/09, Wizxxxz <wizxxxz@...> wrote:


From: Wizxxxz <wizxxxz@...>
Subject: Re: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, November 25, 2009, 5:02 PM


 



How about an inexpensive infrared thermometer?

Relatively cheap ($50-60) and pretty simple to use.

Just a thought...

Doug Rooney wrote:
> I personally use the Stainless Steel shrouded type, and at this point they
> are all installed.
>
> I do not do glass anything, most of the time, even bottles, I keg mostly :-)
>
> My 2cents YMMV
>
> ~DrDoug
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups.
com]
> On Behalf Of abethebabelincoln
> Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 12:46 PM
> To: bathtubbrewers@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] New to brewing and frustrated as hell
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi and thanks for letting me in on this Brew Group
>
> I am trying to brew for the first time and have had several set backs.
> First, I thought I had everything ready to go the other day then realized my
> yeast was out dated and had to get new stuff.
> Fast Forward to today.
> I go down to my local brew supply house to pick up new yeast, some more
> sanitizer, and a thermometer. Bought a floating thermometer.
> Got everything prepped this morning and upon first check of temperature
> after setting my grain bag in to begin making my wort, I barely brush the
> thermometer against the pot and KABOOM, it shatters. Glass and those little
> pellets all in my wort. So I scrapped everything.
>
> Any suggestions? Maybe a different kind of thermometer? Thanks
>
> Sorry for the long post.
>
> -teet
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a small jar of the PB2 from bellplantation.com--have tried a couple
spoonfulls stirred into ice crean, etc.
Great!
***********

--- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, "gyg1345" <gunnyg@...> wrote:
>
> I find the beer recipes for beers w/fruit, etc. pretty disgusting; but PB2
seems like it may have potential--to me anyway!
> ***********
>
> --- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, "gyg1345" <gunnyg@> wrote:
> >
> > Matter of fact, one of the few posts on this states that he had used a whole
jar; but suggests using 2 jars!
> > ;)
> > Duck
> > *****
> >
> > --- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, "clarkt@" <clarkt@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have never made a pb beer, but if the rules are the same as a sandwich,
then the more pb you use, the  better.
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > Date: Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:12:36 am
> > > To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
> > > From: gyg1345 <gunnyg@>
> > > Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?
> > >
> > > Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?
> > >
> > > I have been seeing a very few online mentions of Peanut Butter Beer
(homebrew).
> > >
> > > Most refer to PB Stout or Porter only.
> > > Most suggest using de-oiled PB by several methods.
> > > Some suggest using PB2 (powdered pb)'
> > >
> > > I would like to brew a PB2 beer; preferably a light ale, pale ale.
> > >
> > > I am an extract (+_steeping grains) brewer.
> > >
> > > My questions are:
> > >
> > > How much PB2 to use?
> > >
> > > When to add it--fermenter, or wort--boil or steep?
> > >
> > > Thanx in advance for any assistance yo may provide.
> > >
> > > Like I say, I have seen only scant info on PB Beer at al; perhaps there is
> > > little interest in this and/or just not practical.
> > >
> > > Dick Gaines
> > >
> >
>

I find the beer recipes for beers w/fruit, etc. pretty disgusting; but PB2 seems
like it may have potential--to me anyway!
***********

--- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, "gyg1345" <gunnyg@...> wrote:
>
> Matter of fact, one of the few posts on this states that he had used a whole
jar; but suggests using 2 jars!
> ;)
> Duck
> *****
>
> --- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, "clarkt@" <clarkt@> wrote:
> >
> > I have never made a pb beer, but if the rules are the same as a sandwich,
then the more pb you use, the  better.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > Date: Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:12:36 am
> > To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
> > From: gyg1345 <gunnyg@>
> > Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?
> >
> > Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?
> >
> > I have been seeing a very few online mentions of Peanut Butter Beer
(homebrew).
> >
> > Most refer to PB Stout or Porter only.
> > Most suggest using de-oiled PB by several methods.
> > Some suggest using PB2 (powdered pb)'
> >
> > I would like to brew a PB2 beer; preferably a light ale, pale ale.
> >
> > I am an extract (+_steeping grains) brewer.
> >
> > My questions are:
> >
> > How much PB2 to use?
> >
> > When to add it--fermenter, or wort--boil or steep?
> >
> > Thanx in advance for any assistance yo may provide.
> >
> > Like I say, I have seen only scant info on PB Beer at al; perhaps there is
> > little interest in this and/or just not practical.
> >
> > Dick Gaines
> >
>

Matter of fact, one of the few posts on this states that he had used a whole
jar; but suggests using 2 jars!
;)
Duck
*****

--- In bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com, "clarkt@..." <clarkt@...> wrote:
>
> I have never made a pb beer, but if the rules are the same as a sandwich, then
the more pb you use, the  better.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> Date: Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:12:36 am
> To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
> From: gyg1345 <gunnyg@...>
> Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?
>
> Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?
>
> I have been seeing a very few online mentions of Peanut Butter Beer
(homebrew).
>
> Most refer to PB Stout or Porter only.
> Most suggest using de-oiled PB by several methods.
> Some suggest using PB2 (powdered pb)'
>
> I would like to brew a PB2 beer; preferably a light ale, pale ale.
>
> I am an extract (+_steeping grains) brewer.
>
> My questions are:
>
> How much PB2 to use?
>
> When to add it--fermenter, or wort--boil or steep?
>
> Thanx in advance for any assistance yo may provide.
>
> Like I say, I have seen only scant info on PB Beer at al; perhaps there is
> little interest in this and/or just not practical.
>
> Dick Gaines
>

I have never made a pb beer, but if the rules are the same as a sandwich, then
the more pb you use, the  better.


-----Original Message-----
Date: Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:12:36 am
To: bathtubbrewers@yahoogroups.com
From: gyg1345 <gunnyg@...>
Subject: [Bathtub Brewers] Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?

Peanut Butter Beer and PB2?

I have been seeing a very few online mentions of Peanut Butter Beer (homebrew).

Most refer to PB Stout or Porter only.
Most suggest using de-oiled PB by several methods.
Some suggest using PB2 (powdered pb)'

I would like to brew a PB2 beer; preferably a light ale, pale ale.

I am an extract (+_steeping grains) brewer.

My questions are:

How much PB2 to use?

When to add it--fermenter, or wort--boil or steep?

Thanx in advance for any assistance yo may provide.

Like I say, I have seen only scant info on PB Beer at al; perhaps there is
little interest in this and/or just not practical.

Dick Gaines