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(Reporter unknown)

On the bicentenary of the death of Norfolk's most famous son, I felt I
should review a pub carrying Nelson's name...

However, the draw of more than 20 real ales, including the Nelson Brewery's
Friggin in the Riggin, took me to a namesake of another of the period's
great heroes, The Duke of Wellington on Waterloo Road.

This large tavern is listed in the Good Pub Guide and and was CAMRA's
Norfolk Pub of the Year in 2003. And with a beer selection that competes
with the Fat Cat, I could see why.

There were 14 ales on gravity and another 10 served through hand pumps. With
draught and bottled Belgian beers as well as Norfolk Cider rounding off the
list, the Duke is virtually a beer festival every night of the week.

The boozer's best feature is a glass-fronted taproom surrounded by its
rectangular bar. It's great to see all the barrels lined up and your
favourite drop poured straight from the barrel.

Unfortunately the rest of the decor has not been given as much thought. With
the look of a 1970s carvery, the Duke underestimates the importance of
interior design.

Its large restaurant-sized tables make conversation awkward by having to
shout across them and the boozer's wide open spaces lead to a less intimate
experience.

As a result, the pub's atmosphere is not infectious despite being packed
with an eclectic mix of good-natured drinkers.

The décor may be lacking, but where there is good ale people will follow and
the Duke has one of the best beer menus in the city. With the perfect mix of
old favourites and little known offerings, as well as porter and mild,
there's something for everyone.

The draught Belgian fruit beers give a sweet end to the session and the
continental lagers provide a proper drink for uninitiated fans of the fizzy
stuff. At about £2.20 a pint, your wallet will be happy too!

Every ale is assigned a number that is used when ordering the next round.
While this is common practice at a beer festival and the drinks were well
served, it did make me wonder how much was known about each brew.

The Duke has a decent beer garden and this comes into its own for the famous
August beer festival where some great brews can be enjoyed al fresco with
well-priced barbecued nosh.

Although the Duke isn't perfect, the fact I even noticed its small faults is
testament to just how much real ale houses have developed in recent years.
Discerning Norwich drinkers are now literally spoilt for choice.

The Duke still provides a premier place for a proper pint and is well worth
the 15-minute hike out of the city centre, particularly as part of an ale
trail with the nearby Shed and Whalebone.
Regards
John Hopkins
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