not aware of any "used salvage" in chicago  but there are several rv
surplus places nearby in  the "southbend" area  Bill

On Thu, 30 Oct 2003, Robert wrote:

> I do not know of any,
>
> but owuld love to hear if one(s) does exist
>
> Robert
> Chicago
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

I have run the fridge off the inverter for at least 8 years now.  I
never run the inverter when the motor is not running.  It will kill
the battery in about 2 hours if left on.  It is fan cooled so if I
forget to turn it off, I will hear it once the motor is not
running, .. can't hear it when the motor is running.

My fridge is a 1978 Sibir.  It has no electronics in it.  Heating
elements don't care what the wave shape is.  It works exactly the
same on shore power as it does on inverter power.

The easiest thing for you to do is run an extension cord from the
inverter to the frige.  Your rig is different from mine, but the 110
plug for the fridge comes out of the bottom of the fridge, and then
goes up behind the fridge to the wall (actually the left side of my
RV) where it plugs into the 110 outlet.  It was too inconvenent to
plug it back in after I had unplugged it to run on inverter (just
try to plug a cord into an outlet that you can't see but only can
feel), so I built a switch box that both shore power and inverter
power were switched with a "double pole, tripple throw" switch.  You
don't have to build one though, just run a short cord from the the
fridge outlet to the bottom of the fridge cabinet, then you can plug
it into either the cord from the inverter or the cord from the shore
power outlet.

I don't recommend using a cigar lighter plug for the DC power to the
inverter because it will draw 20 to 25 amps and probably will melt.
I ran #6 gauge wire to my battery to handle the amps and not lose
too much voltage in the wire, to give the inverter as much voltage
as it could get.  I had to drill a hole thru the floor to do it.

Just ask if you need any more info.

Del




--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, susiea1000@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 10/31/2003 11:17:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> classicrv@yahoogroups.com writes:
>
> Hey, This is the greatest tip I have ever read!~ I'm having
trouble with my
> fridge on gas, it will get the click and the flame but it only
fires up all the
> way once every 40 tries!!  I took the burner apart and tried
soaking the
> orifice in alcohol, putting it back together this afternoon,
sooooo glad the
> previous owner passed on all those manuals with the exploded
views!!
>
> I am wondering, though, how do you hook the fridge up to the
inverter?
>
> I have a 400 watt inverter so it should work, where is the plug in
for the
> fridge, is it on the back where I've been messing with the gas and
just didn't
> see the plug?  how would you run it inside?  Can this be done with
an extension
> cord?  can I use an ordinary lighter/accessory type of outlet to
plug the
> inverter in?    I'm not that great at figuring how to run wires,
etc. out of
> sight and how to know how/what amps, watts, and all that 'stuff'!!
I'm blond but I
> can learn...
>
> Susie
>
>
> > Re: Power inverter for refrigerator?
> >
> > I have used an inverter for my fridge for years.  It works
> > perfectly.  The fridge draws 230 watts and in the inverter is a
300
> > watt unit.  I don't use the inverter for anything else.  I plug
the
> > fridge into shore power for 12 or 15 hours before I am going to
> > leave so it will be cold when I am ready to go, then switch to
> > inverter just before I leave.  The inverter draws about 20 amps
DC
> > so I turn it off when I am not running the motor, and I used
heavy
> > wire to connect it to the battery ( I actually used #8 gauge but
you
> > don't have to use wire that heavy.)  Since the fridge has a
heating
> > element it doen't care that the inverter output is not a true
sine
> > wave. Install it where it can get air to keep it cool.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Del
> >
> > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Keith Adams <kadams4458@y...>
> > wrote:
> > >Here's something that's been bothering me for a
> > >while... I guess I'll drop this out there and see what
> > >you all can tell me.
> > >
> > >There may be times in the future when I will need to
> > >operate my rig on the road all day, but still need to
> > >keep my food cold. Since I only have the choice
> > >between gas or shore power to run this refrigeration
> > >unit, I was wondering if any of you had experience
> > >with using a 12VDC to 120VAC inverter to operate these
> > >things.
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Maybe we can hook up some time next summer. The MH has been put to
bed for the winter.

dick





--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Ida Hull <ihull@v...> wrote:
> When we went on our trip to Georgia, we were almost at the bridge,
actually
> going right by Jacques Cartier park when we noticed a car slow
down that was
> coming out of the park.  When we got home I checked my groups and
one of the
> members had left a message "Doodlebus spotted!"
>
> The car we had seen slowing down was a member of that group
(rvrsunder55)
> and she recognized the Doodlebus by the name on the back which said
> Doodlegranny. It was so neat to get home and see that message that
she had
> spotted us on highway 37.
>
> We were only at customs for about three minutes. A few questions,
and he
> gave us two dog biscuits and waved us through.  And I was
expecting them to
> strip the whole Doodlebus down.  LOL  Ida
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dick" <terowe@n...>
> To: <classicrv@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2003 8:06 PM
> Subject: [classicrv] Re: Vintage RV Camperee -- My area
>
>
> > Thats about 15 mins. depends how long customs keep us. We camp at
> > Jacques Cartier State Park some times. 10 mins from home.
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.525 / Virus Database: 322 - Release Date: 10/10/03

Hi All,
I am writing in hopes I don't get kicked out because I have a Mobile
Home and not an RV, BUT I am desperate for help and think someone
here might just have an answer. I've been reading all your posts and
other message boards but have not found the answer to my problem.  I
have a Coleman A7970 in a 1970 Nashua that is acting up.  The manual
reset limit switch keeps popping off.  Here is a little history:
The pilot was too high and it kept making the blower go on to cool
it chamber so I tried to adjust the pilot on the gas valve but it
wouldn't adjust.  So I took the valve out with the pilot and all, to
clean it, checked the jet and all looked fine, reinstalled with a
new thermocoupler and still no adjustment.  Got a new gas valve and
the pilot adjusts and all was working fine.  After a few days it
started to pop the reset switch.  Here is the kookie part. I opened
the door to the furnace and it cycles fine. Close the door and it
acts up.  Does anyone have an idea as to what might be wrong, I am
flat out of them.
Thanks,
Melodie

It sounds like you need to replace the limit switch. There is also a
fan switch which turns the fan on and off. Sometimes these 2 are
incorporated in one switch.

Co-moderator - Dad





--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Melodie" <melodiemurphy@p...>
wrote:
> Hi All,
> I am writing in hopes I don't get kicked out because I have a
Mobile
> Home and not an RV, BUT I am desperate for help and think someone

Hello
I am about to purchase a 1987 Southwind 24 footer as my first
motorhome for $10,800 and it has 24,000 miles on it with a chevy
engine. I have not yet seen it in person but am assured it is in
almost new condition, having been garaged and cleaned meticulously.
Can anyone help me with things to look for before I pay for it. Does
anuone have experience with this motorhome? Any and all advise is
appreciated because I do not want to make a big mistake. What kind of
problems should I expect to have?
                            Thank You,
                      Ken (retired USMC, Vietnam), Ying-chu & 3-year-
                                                            old Jen-yi

Hello again to all
I am sorry for the poor post put up before. I have more information
on the Class A we are planning on buying for almost $11,000 and any
comments good or bad will be greatly appreciated as we are new to the
world of RVing.
  Some information is as follows; good working Onan Generator 4.0,
Chevy run gears, sleeps six, TV-VCR, microwave, tub-shower, 3-way-
refridge, gas stove and oven, am-fm casette stereo in dash with rear
speakers, central heat with roof air, all alluminum fuel tank, vent
roof covers, receiver hitch with storage, SS simulators, dual
exhaust, screens in windows.
  Pictures of the outside look quite brite (as I said it was garaged),
and it has never been in an accident. Two owners. Inside looks
extremely clean and plastic has covered the floors most of the time.
It has a driver's door and pull down over head front bed, rear double
bed and dinnette table behind driver's seat. There is also a covered
spare tire on the rear bomper above the storage box, a box I have
never seen before.
The owner assures us we are getting a very nice MH, ready to go and
it should provide years of enjoyment.
We are very, very happy to have found this web site and appreciate
any and all comments that will help us understand what we are getting
ourselves into.  Ken

Hi Ken--

Conventional advice is to simply have it gone over by a qualified chassis
service center, and get their report.  But as long as you're asking, ...

It sounds like you are looking into a pretty darned nice motorhome.  The
price is up there pretty high, but I don't think it is out of line for a
classic RV in great condition.  The low miles on the running gear is
probably its best point, in my not-so-humble opinion.  I bought my 1984
Winnebago (Chevy chassis/454 engine) with 82,000 miles, and have put 15K
trouble-free miles on it in the last year.  I figure if I'm getting that
kind of service from a "high mileage" vehicle, then I could have gotten
virtually all the miles I'll ever need out of a low miler for a few thou
more.  Anyway, with low miles, you won't need to wonder much about whether
drive train components will need major service any time soon.

Suspension might be sagging by now even with low miles.  Many motorhomes
have "air springs" as well as front coils and rear leaf springs, or some
other setup.  Be especially sure to see (or have the inspectior do) the air
springs pressure checked and inflated to verify that they haven't blown out
(it happens if they're run on while under- or de-flated).

You will save yourself some wondering about when your major components need
service if you get the records from the owner.  Get any and all
owner/service manuals for the coach, drive train, and any/all appliances,
and vehicle service records, even oil changes, tune ups, fan belts,
antifreeze, chassis lube, rear wheel bearings packed, brakes, light bulbs,
anything that will inform you about the state of the systems.  When was the
generator serviced?  How old (years AND miles) are the tires?  Any pieces of
the vehicle new (engine generator, water pump, heater/radiator hoses)?  Did
it ever leak (let the weather in)--if so, find out where to keep an eye on
the repair.  Look around topside and judge for yourself what looks like a
patch or repair, then check out those areas from the inside to look closely
for water stains and other signs of potential roof problems.

Your electrical and gas accessories are pretty standard.  One AC unit,
microwave, TV, and a generator to power it .  You didn't mention a water
heater (did you?), but you'll want to check it out (some are dual
electric/LPG), and try heating water to be sure it works.  Likewise, test
the refrigerator on all power sources (DC, AC, LPG).  Test the oven, range.
Your gas appliances might have a pilot light, automatic flame sensing
ignition, or manual start--be sure to get a tour of all of them to see how
they operate.  Ditto the plumbing, ask the owner to show all the ways to
connect to water supply and/or fill storage tank, and drain water system.

Be sure and find out what happens when you run the genset--does it produce
enough power to start and continue running the AC?  Does it charge the house
battery (deep cycle storage battery)?  Does the charger have enough oomph to
recharge a depleted house battery in a reasonable length of time?  Is the
house battery in good shape? What about the main engine starting battery,
what shape is it in?  Get a tour of the 120 VAC power converter and circuit
breakers, 120 --> 12V inverter and fuses (for 12V lights and such in the
coach, and the automotive fuse box (for auto systems like lighter, wipers,
lights, etc.  As mentionend earlier, the inverter may also provide charging
to the 12 V house battery, but you should verify that it is equipped to do
this, or else you'll need a way to charge the house battery.  Get a
demonstration of hooking up to shore power,sewer, and water, and then
unhooking and stowing everything.

It would be fair to say that a motorhome is a very complex vehicle with all
of its systems and power sources, but if you get the tour from someone well
acquainted with it, you can easily learn the things you need to know, with
none of the agonizing over how to get an owner's instruction manual for a
particular appliance, for example.

That's the whole enchilada.  Of course, someone else will say different, so
good luck in yer nearly-new classic rv!

Ned Bedinger
1984 Winnebago Chieftain 30'
Southworth, WA



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ying-chu, Jen-yi & Ken Klose" <yingchu777@...>
To: <classicrv@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2003 7:07 PM
Subject: [classicrv] 1987 Southwind 24 ft Class A


> Hello again to all
> I am sorry for the poor post put up before. I have more information
> on the Class A we are planning on buying for almost $11,000 and any
> comments good or bad will be greatly appreciated as we are new to the
> world of RVing.
>  Some information is as follows; good working Onan Generator 4.0,
> Chevy run gears, sleeps six, TV-VCR, microwave, tub-shower, 3-way-
> refridge, gas stove and oven, am-fm casette stereo in dash with rear
> speakers, central heat with roof air, all alluminum fuel tank, vent
> roof covers, receiver hitch with storage, SS simulators, dual
> exhaust, screens in windows.
>  Pictures of the outside look quite brite (as I said it was garaged),
> and it has never been in an accident. Two owners. Inside looks
> extremely clean and plastic has covered the floors most of the time.
> It has a driver's door and pull down over head front bed, rear double
> bed and dinnette table behind driver's seat. There is also a covered
> spare tire on the rear bomper above the storage box, a box I have
> never seen before.
> The owner assures us we are getting a very nice MH, ready to go and
> it should provide years of enjoyment.
> We are very, very happy to have found this web site and appreciate
> any and all comments that will help us understand what we are getting
> ourselves into.  Ken
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Brad" <livinglavivarv@y...> wrote:
> I have had problems with vehicles not starting due to a plugged fuel
> filter.  also the tank switch valve could be bad and could possibly
> cause the fuel from leaving the tank period 9of course the switch
> could be bad as well).

Has anyone had any experience with servicing/repairing these tank
switching valves?

Mine switches over the fuel guage readings, but not the source tank
itself.

I've never done one of these before, so I would appreciate any tips
before I get in there and start pulling things apart.

Thanks,   Hale.

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "blackbourne666" <bimsalabim7@h...>
wrote:

Hi Amy,

Any sort of straight auto mechanic can easily take care of your
manifold gasket and checking out your W/S wiper motor.

An auto A/C shop would be who to see for your cab a/c.

Good Luck, Hale


> Hi, it's me again- begging knowledge from the "wise ones"...
>
> Can anyone recomend a decent RV mechanic in the Monterey Peninsula
> area ( Northern CA)? I'm new to Rvs and to the area, so I thought
> perhaps someone can send me in the right direction. So far the RV
> mechanics who advertise in the yellow pages are honest enough to
> tell me that they aren't able to fix what I need fixed! (we're
> talking new freon in the a/c in the cab, cracked manifold gasket,
> window wiper motor checked...)
> A big thank you to all who replied to my "why do I need to level my
> Jambo?" post!
> Thanks, Amy
> P.S. Happy Halloween....

Hi Ken. Another thing to check out is wether the tires are original
or have been recently replaced. They say that tires over five YO
should be replaced. Remember they carry a lot of weight. Also, check
out the belts and hoses for deteriation.
Lots of luck, it sounds like a nice MH.
Rich DeBlasio

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Ying-chu, Jen-yi & Ken Klose"
<yingchu777@c...> wrote:
> Hello again to all
> I am sorry for the poor post put up before. I have more information
> on the Class A we are planning on buying for almost $11,000 and any
> comments good or bad will be greatly appreciated as we are new to
the
> world of RVing.
>  Some information is as follows; good working Onan Generator 4.0,
> Chevy run gears, sleeps six, TV-VCR, microwave, tub-shower, 3-way-
> refridge, gas stove and oven, am-fm casette stereo in dash with
rear
> speakers, central heat with roof air, all alluminum fuel tank, vent
> roof covers, receiver hitch with storage, SS simulators, dual
> exhaust, screens in windows.
>  Pictures of the outside look quite brite (as I said it was
garaged),
> and it has never been in an accident. Two owners. Inside looks
> extremely clean and plastic has covered the floors most of the
time.
> It has a driver's door and pull down over head front bed, rear
double
> bed and dinnette table behind driver's seat. There is also a
covered
> spare tire on the rear bomper above the storage box, a box I have
> never seen before.
> The owner assures us we are getting a very nice MH, ready to go and
> it should provide years of enjoyment.
> We are very, very happy to have found this web site and appreciate
> any and all comments that will help us understand what we are
getting
> ourselves into.  Ken

Hi all,
First time here. I have a question, what is the best thing to seal a
top on a RV. Cool Seal??
Thanks,
Dan
Madrider

What kind of rig is this on "A" or "C"?  just curious because most
mechanics are rv savi, meaning that the engine setups are just about
the same as a van or truck (as long as it's not a diesel pusher).
Not like its THAT hard to access the engines anyway!  if you can't
tell, i'm one of those mechanics and wonder why you don't take it to
a mechanic that recharges A/C, on the works on engines (tune up,
gaskets, etc.), and one that works on electrical.  might be worth it
($$$ wise) to go to all different mech's as any of them may not know
how to do the other things.
-Brad
78 Sportsman "C" 4STAR (<----Just found out saturday)



--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "blackbourne666" <bimsalabim7@h...>
wrote:
> Hi, it's me again- begging knowledge from the "wise ones"...
>
> Can anyone recomend a decent RV mechanic in the Monterey Peninsula
> area ( Northern CA)? I'm new to Rvs and to the area, so I thought
> perhaps someone can send me in the right direction. So far the RV
> mechanics who advertise in the yellow pages are honest enough to
> tell me that they aren't able to fix what I need fixed! (we're
> talking new freon in the a/c in the cab, cracked manifold gasket,
> window wiper motor checked...)
> A big thank you to all who replied to my "why do I need to level my
> Jambo?" post!
> Thanks, Amy
> P.S. Happy Halloween....

In a message dated 11/2/2003 10:04:59 AM Eastern Standard Time,
classicrv@yahoogroups.com writes:
From: "CRV" <ned.crv@...>
Subject: Re: Gas problem to Onan genny

My Onan has a shut off valve in the fuel line.  It wouldn't affect the fuel
going to the engine, 'tho.  It is just on the fuel line before it gets to
the Onan's fuel pump, inside the generator compartment.  If that valve were
to be closed for some reason, my generator wouldn't get any fuel.

I've never heard of a fuel line being completely plugged, although I s'pose
it could happen.  Some fuel tanks have a lining that flakes off and can plug
things up.  Some fuel lines (notably rubber ones) can disintegrate and plug
small apertures and orifices in the system.  Metal fuel lines can crimp,
kink, or bend and get closed off that way.  Fuel filters on the fuel line
could conceivably get plugged.

I know that people do replace individual diodes in voltage rectifiers, for
example.  But all I knopw about the Onan circuit boards is that Dinosaur
makes a replacement for some Onans.  See http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com

Good luck.

Ned Bedinger
1984 Winnebago Chieftain 30'
Southworth, WA
Thanks so much Ned, I'll check on all of these leads..  I have a feeling the
lack of gas to the Onan has to do with the dufoses that worked on the gas tank
problem and they probably screwed something up or left something off...

Did I mention when I went ot pick it up after the $1400 gas tank fiasco,
there was NO air conditioning, NO DC power..... and they acted like I was being
a
prima donna when I came back and was insistent they changed something!!!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

misterbuzzer@... wrote:

>Has anyone had any experience with servicing/repairing these tank
>switching valves?
>
>Mine switches over the fuel guage readings, but not the source tank
>itself.
>
>I've never done one of these before, so I would appreciate any tips
>before I get in there and start pulling things apart.
>
>Thanks,   Hale.
>

Hale:

My '73 Dodge chassis uses a simple solenoid operated tank switch.
When power to the solenoid is off, the solenoid allows the fuel to flow
from the main tank to the engine.  When the solenoid has 12 volts applied
to it, it pulls in and switches the fuel flow to the auxiliary tank.  my
rig has
no fuel level sensor in the aux tank, so it just uses a single pole
single throw
(sinple on-off) switch to control the solenoid valve.  Your rig uses a
different setup to switch the solenoid valve and the tank sensor together.
Since it switches the tank sensor OK, I would bet that the solenoid valve
is bad, or maybe just has a loose connection like mine did when I got it.

Checking the solenoid valve is done by finding the little bugger (duh)
where
the lines from the two tanks come together and feed the single fuel line to
the engine.  The device connection the three lines is the solenoid valve.
It will need to have a 12 volt wire, which is controlled by the dash switch.
Check for voltage from the connector on the solenoid to ground
(the rig's frame) while someone operated the dash switch.  You should read
12 volts with the switch in one position and no volts with it in the
other.
If that happens, and the tanks aren't being switched, the solenoid is open,
whioch is the most common failure I have seen in solenoids.  If you get no
volts in either switch position, the solenoid may be shorted (and draining
your battery as well) or there is no voltage from the switch.  Remove the
wire from the solenoid and check for voltage from the wire to ground.
If you now have voltage in one switch position the solenoid is shorted, but
the rest of the system is working.

It's not too tough, but you will get dirty.  You can do it by yourself
(I did)
but a helper makes it a lot quicker and easier.  Good luck!

Brad- the only reason I asked was because I have had such rotten
luck with mechanics lately I thought it would be helpful if I could
be refered to someone.I always like to pass on the name of a good
mechanic or plumber,etc. when I run into someone new in my neck of
the woods. I'm new here in Monterey and I don't know much about
engines, let alone Rvs- and my newly purchased '78 class c needs
alittle work. I am going to have to take it to different
individuals... it looks like I have no choice.


--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Brad" <livinglavivarv@y...> wrote:
> What kind of rig is this on "A" or "C"?  just curious because most
> mechanics are rv savi, meaning that the engine setups are just
about
> the same as a van or truck (as long as it's not a diesel pusher).
> Not like its THAT hard to access the engines anyway!  if you can't
> tell, i'm one of those mechanics and wonder why you don't take it
to
> a mechanic that recharges A/C, on the works on engines (tune up,
> gaskets, etc.), and one that works on electrical.  might be worth
it
> ($$$ wise) to go to all different mech's as any of them may not
know
> how to do the other things.
> -Brad
> 78 Sportsman "C" 4STAR (<----Just found out saturday)
>
>
>
> --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "blackbourne666"
<bimsalabim7@h...>
> wrote:
> > Hi, it's me again- begging knowledge from the "wise ones"...
> >
> > Can anyone recomend a decent RV mechanic in the Monterey
Peninsula
> > area ( Northern CA)? I'm new to Rvs and to the area, so I
thought
> > perhaps someone can send me in the right direction. So far the
RV
> > mechanics who advertise in the yellow pages are honest enough to
> > tell me that they aren't able to fix what I need fixed! (we're
> > talking new freon in the a/c in the cab, cracked manifold
gasket,
> > window wiper motor checked...)
> > A big thank you to all who replied to my "why do I need to level
my
> > Jambo?" post!
> > Thanks, Amy
> > P.S. Happy Halloween....

Thanks Hale,
Like I told the other person who replyed to my post, I am going to
go to different individuals to have the work done... I was just
hoping for a referal from someone who had a good experience with a
mechanic or shop in the area...

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "misterbuzzer" <misterbuzzer@y...>
wrote:
> --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "blackbourne666"
<bimsalabim7@h...>
> wrote:
>
> Hi Amy,
>
> Any sort of straight auto mechanic can easily take care of your
> manifold gasket and checking out your W/S wiper motor.
>
> An auto A/C shop would be who to see for your cab a/c.
>
> Good Luck, Hale
>
>
> > Hi, it's me again- begging knowledge from the "wise ones"...
> >
> > Can anyone recomend a decent RV mechanic in the Monterey
Peninsula
> > area ( Northern CA)? I'm new to Rvs and to the area, so I
thought
> > perhaps someone can send me in the right direction. So far the
RV
> > mechanics who advertise in the yellow pages are honest enough to
> > tell me that they aren't able to fix what I need fixed! (we're
> > talking new freon in the a/c in the cab, cracked manifold
gasket,
> > window wiper motor checked...)
> > A big thank you to all who replied to my "why do I need to level
my
> > Jambo?" post!
> > Thanks, Amy
> > P.S. Happy Halloween....

Thanks Bob,

Excellent information. I'll attack it as soon as I get home
(unfortunately not from RV'ing).

I know exactly what you mean about geting dirty.  It seems that
anything that needs fixin' on an RV (or boat) is always a real grimey job.

H.


--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, Bob Crockett <bcrocket@t...> wrote:
> misterbuzzer@y... wrote:
>
> >Has anyone had any experience with servicing/repairing these tank
> >switching valves?
> >
> >Mine switches over the fuel guage readings, but not the source tank
> >itself.
> >
> >I've never done one of these before, so I would appreciate any tips
> >before I get in there and start pulling things apart.
> >
> >Thanks,   Hale.
> >
>
> Hale:
>
> My '73 Dodge chassis uses a simple solenoid operated tank switch.
> When power to the solenoid is off, the solenoid allows the fuel to flow
> from the main tank to the engine.  When the solenoid has 12 volts
applied
> to it, it pulls in and switches the fuel flow to the auxiliary tank.
  my
> rig has
> no fuel level sensor in the aux tank, so it just uses a single pole
> single throw
> (sinple on-off) switch to control the solenoid valve.  Your rig uses a
> different setup to switch the solenoid valve and the tank sensor
together.
> Since it switches the tank sensor OK, I would bet that the solenoid
valve
> is bad, or maybe just has a loose connection like mine did when I
got it.
>
> Checking the solenoid valve is done by finding the little bugger (duh)
> where
> the lines from the two tanks come together and feed the single fuel
line to
> the engine.  The device connection the three lines is the solenoid
valve.
> It will need to have a 12 volt wire, which is controlled by the dash
switch.
> Check for voltage from the connector on the solenoid to ground
> (the rig's frame) while someone operated the dash switch.  You
should read
> 12 volts with the switch in one position and no volts with it in the
> other.
> If that happens, and the tanks aren't being switched, the solenoid
is open,
> whioch is the most common failure I have seen in solenoids.  If you
get no
> volts in either switch position, the solenoid may be shorted (and
draining
> your battery as well) or there is no voltage from the switch.
Remove the
> wire from the solenoid and check for voltage from the wire to ground.
> If you now have voltage in one switch position the solenoid is
shorted, but
> the rest of the system is working.
>
> It's not too tough, but you will get dirty.  You can do it by yourself
> (I did)
> but a helper makes it a lot quicker and easier.  Good luck!

In a message dated 11/3/2003 9:45:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
classicrv@yahoogroups.com writes:
I've never done one of these before, so I would appreciate any tips
before I get in there and start pulling things apart.

Thanks,   Hale.
Hello, Hale,

You're not Hale Irwin, the golfer, are you???

Susie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I would like to get information on where to purchase a Scotty Travel
Trailer. Any info on restorers or ones for sale would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks / Gary Foster - Tucson, Az.

Ken-



Check tires for little cracks from UV and dry rot... In fact check all
rubber parts; hoses, fan belts, air ride springs, oil cooler hoses, brake
line hoses, power steering hoses, etc. Check condition of in dash A/C. Check
coach A/C. Check LP gas tank for rust, and make sure all gas appliances
work. Make sure the reefer works especially on LP gas as well as 110V. Make
sure all of the gauges work, especially the gas gauge. Run the TV antenna up
and down. Check for signs of water leakage and damage; stained ceiling and
wall panels that bulge out a little and feel squishy. Sounds like you're not
in "freeze-up" country, but put at least 10 gallons of water in the fresh
water tank and check plumbing for leaks. Check pressure of pump and over-all
sound. Last but not least, climb underneath and check mounting straps for
black and grey water tanks. Check plumbing from tanks for leaks and try the
gate valves. Make sure you understand gate valve-dump sequence; talk to
owner. That's enough for starters and should keep you busy for a while. Be
sure to change all fluids oil, ATF, coolant.





Joel in NH



-----Original Message-----
From: Ying-chu, Jen-yi & Ken Klose [mailto:yingchu777@...]
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2003 8:32 PM
To: classicrv@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [classicrv] 1987 Southwind 24 ft



Hello
I am about to purchase a 1987 Southwind 24 footer as my first
motorhome for $10,800 and it has 24,000 miles on it with a chevy
engine. I have not yet seen it in person but am assured it is in
almost new condition, having been garaged and cleaned meticulously.
Can anyone help me with things to look for before I pay for it. Does
anuone have experience with this motorhome? Any and all advise is
appreciated because I do not want to make a big mistake. What kind of
problems should I expect to have?
                            Thank You,
                      Ken (retired USMC, Vietnam), Ying-chu & 3-year-
                                                            old Jen-yi






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I sould check with my cousins that live in near-by Gilroy to see who
they use up that way.  Other than this i'm clueless to mech's in your
area.
-Brad




--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "blackbourne666" <bimsalabim7@h...>
wrote:
> Brad- the only reason I asked was because I have had such rotten
> luck with mechanics lately I thought it would be helpful if I could
> be refered to someone.I always like to pass on the name of a good
> mechanic or plumber,etc. when I run into someone new in my neck of
> the woods. I'm new here in Monterey and I don't know much about
> engines, let alone Rvs- and my newly purchased '78 class c needs
> alittle work. I am going to have to take it to different
> individuals... it looks like I have no choice.
>
>
> --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Brad" <livinglavivarv@y...> wrote:
> > What kind of rig is this on "A" or "C"?  just curious because most
> > mechanics are rv savi, meaning that the engine setups are just
> about
> > the same as a van or truck (as long as it's not a diesel pusher).
> > Not like its THAT hard to access the engines anyway!  if you can't
> > tell, i'm one of those mechanics and wonder why you don't take it
> to
> > a mechanic that recharges A/C, on the works on engines (tune up,
> > gaskets, etc.), and one that works on electrical.  might be worth
> it
> > ($$$ wise) to go to all different mech's as any of them may not
> know
> > how to do the other things.
> > -Brad
> > 78 Sportsman "C" 4STAR (<----Just found out saturday)
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "blackbourne666"
> <bimsalabim7@h...>
> > wrote:
> > > Hi, it's me again- begging knowledge from the "wise ones"...
> > >
> > > Can anyone recomend a decent RV mechanic in the Monterey
> Peninsula
> > > area ( Northern CA)? I'm new to Rvs and to the area, so I
> thought
> > > perhaps someone can send me in the right direction. So far the
> RV
> > > mechanics who advertise in the yellow pages are honest enough to
> > > tell me that they aren't able to fix what I need fixed! (we're
> > > talking new freon in the a/c in the cab, cracked manifold
> gasket,
> > > window wiper motor checked...)
> > > A big thank you to all who replied to my "why do I need to level
> my
> > > Jambo?" post!
> > > Thanks, Amy
> > > P.S. Happy Halloween....

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "foster00160" <foster00160@a...>
wrote:
> I would like to get information on where to purchase a Scotty Travel
> Trailer. Any info on restorers or ones for sale would be greatly
> appreciated. Thanks / Gary Foster - Tucson, Az.

    Can we presume you already track EBAY for them?

   Peter

If there is anyone out there who has ever seen a 78 Dodge Champion,
please contact me!!!!  We have one and have never seen another like
it.  It is similarly shaped to an Airstream.  If you have any
information about it, please, please, please e-mail us.  We are also
looking for generator.

here's the address and number for the mechanic my cousins have ysed
over the years:

Gilroy Car Care
7747 Monterey St
Gilroy, CA 95020-5217
Phone:  (408) 842-5850

if this isn't too far, this is a good mechanic to go to.  (my cousins
don't like dishonest mechanics).

I look on Ebay, but have yet to be successful in locating one in the
Southwest. And to actually bid on something that may not be disclosed scares me.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> iggysaver69@... wrote:


>If there is anyone out there who has ever seen a 78 Dodge Champion,
>please contact me!!!!  We have one and have never seen another like
>it.
>
Are you looking for another just like yours for a photo-op, breeding, or
just thinking that
only someone who has the same year and make rig as yours can offer
help?  I could easily
be wrong, but it seems to me that Champion built motorhomes on different
chassis.
So, if you have a problem with the "house" part of your rig  that is one
thing,  but  if it is
chassis/ engine/ running gear, that allows more possibilities for others
to help.

There is also a group for Champion motorhomes. I have an 86 Telstar,
Champion, it is a 24 ft B class widebody. Ida
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Crockett" <bcrocket@...>
To: <classicrv@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [classicrv] 1978 Dodge Champion Class C


> > iggysaver69@... wrote:
>
>
> >If there is anyone out there who has ever seen a 78 Dodge Champion,
> >please contact me!!!!  We have one and have never seen another like
> >it.
> >
> Are you looking for another just like yours for a photo-op, breeding, or
> just thinking that
> only someone who has the same year and make rig as yours can offer
> help?  I could easily
> be wrong, but it seems to me that Champion built motorhomes on different
> chassis.
> So, if you have a problem with the "house" part of your rig  that is one
> thing,  but  if it is
> chassis/ engine/ running gear, that allows more possibilities for others
> to help.
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> classicrv-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>


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Thanks Brad... I'm gonna give them a call tomorrow!
-Amy

--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "Brad" <livinglavivarv@y...> wrote:
> here's the address and number for the mechanic my cousins have ysed
> over the years:
>
> Gilroy Car Care
> 7747 Monterey St
> Gilroy, CA 95020-5217
> Phone:  (408) 842-5850
>
> if this isn't too far, this is a good mechanic to go to.  (my
cousins
> don't like dishonest mechanics).

I have a 1974 19' Travel Queen Class C, which is built on a Dodge
Sportsman chassis. It's pretty awful on gas, but otherwise good for
an old/small RV. You'll have to fix up a bunch of things, I'm sure,
you always do with these "classics." The "Travel Queens" were
considered pretty spiffy in their day.

      Robert


--- In classicrv@yahoogroups.com, "heartwarmingtreasures2003"
<mehus@p...> wrote:
> I'm sorry I meant Dodge
> anyway title has TRQ but Truck area has sportsman
> The seller called it a Travel Queen.
>