Yeah, those things on the CVT mainline tie strip are supposed to be rail anchors
as would be used on welded rail.  They stick up higher than the simulated spike
heads.  There's one on each side of the tie on both rails every so often, and
one on one side of a tie with the other one on opposite side of the tie for the
other rail, in between the ones on both sides of the tie.

I have managed to successfully carve those off, on the tie strips I was laying
rail on yesterday.

Ron Merrick


--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, Stephen Bartlett <tower.op@...> wrote:
>
> Ron,
>
<snip>
>
> I cannot visualize the tie strips you are using, but wouldn't the
> "little nubby things" be simulated spike heads, with the rail base slid
> beneath them?
>
> Rail braces are generally used at turnouts where extra lateral stability
> is required, not on plain track.
>
> Steve Bartlett
>
> ron.merrick wrote:
> > ...

Although I know the difference between rail anchors and rail braces, I
seem to have brain-glitched and mixed up the two in my reply.  I went
back and looked at the original post, and "rail anchor" was the term used.

On welded rail, anchors are often if not generally used on each side of
and at each end of every tie, where they were much more widely spaced on
jointed rail.

Steve Bartlett

Ron,

Also, as another useful notion, I've seen railroads simply nip off a
few inches from a standard tie, creosoting the ends by hand, and
fitting them in place of the full length (as Andy noted) 16' 6" tie.
Cut the two standard ties back until they approximate 16' 6" while
keeping them roughly centered. The small area with a slightly lower
lack of support is generally accepted as the weight is carried through
the various parts of the turnout. Not a "best practice," but an
acceptable one.

It's probably good that you didn't ask how to lay out a crossing.

Personally, I'd avoid cutting the ties and spreading the turnouts. If
you do, be cautious not to introduce any sharp angles, though,
technically, the diverging rail may begin its curve at any time after
the frog.

Ben McDonnell

Group,

Yes, one last thought.

Rail anchors were most often recommended to keep your rails from
sliding down grade. I know that seems a bit odd, but rail, as it heats
and cools through the day and night, will actually begin to slide down
a grade. They have been used back into the 19th century, even before
some railroads fully accepted tie plates.

Ron,

You're likely correct in recalling interlaced ties. Many plans that
I've seen show them quite plainly, and I have recently noted several
extant examples. You don't need that Centrum just yet.

Ben McDonnell

I have the following Proto 87 Store items FOR SALE:

6 - Packs Hand Sawn Ultimate #6 Switch Tie Kits
3 - #6 Frogs
5 - Packs Code 70/83 MD 1 yard, 6 pack tie plates
6 - Packs Code 70/83 ML 1 yard, 6 pack tie plates
6 - Code 70/83 #6 or #6 MD Turnout complete sets
1 - Proto87 tie gauge

$200.00 + USPS-PM-SFRB w/DC shipping ( $6.00 )
Payment by Bank / USPS Money Order or personal check
( 5 business days to clear ) - NO PAYPAL.

Loren Martell
Beaverton, OR 97006
503-810-9018

The 1 - Proto87 tie gauge is in fact a Proto87 Track Gauge.

I apologize for the foo-pah....... :-(

Loren Martell
Beaverton, OR 97006



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

No different than me buying a dryer at HomeDepot.com, then getting a 10%
coupon via email the following week. I guess they thought I might need a
washer?



From: Ken Burney [mailto:wkburney@...]
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 5:15 PM
To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [handlaidtrack] Trainworld





That would make me mad. I hope they get news of your post and maybe change
the way the deal with a customer letting them know their sale sucks and they
aren't effectively drawing sales with a discount like that.

Ken the guy from AR

_____

From: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com <mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of seameadow17
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 9:55 AM
To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com <mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [handlaidtrack] Trainworld

Has anyone dealt with this company before? I have purchased much from this
company, usually without a problem. I received an e-mail from them offering
me
five dollars off if I spend between one hundred to two hundred dollars. I
shot
an e-mail back stating five dollars off of that amount surely would not get
me
to spend my money. The responce I received was, "get a life"!
Is this something a hobby supplier should be telling a dedicated customer?
What
gives? Are suppliers now some how elevated to being God's that they can
belittle their customers?
I know where I won't be shopping anymore!!!!
jgviolante

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Trainworld generally competitive with any mail order house on price so a wee bit
on top via "sale" partially covers shipping. Trainworld shipping by the way is
mind boggling re speed.


Occasionally T-World has sales that blow your socks off. Examples: recently
offering Proto NYC lightning stripe E7 sound units(#'s 4028, 4029) at $129.99
and Athearn UP turbine w tender at $129.99. Best price I've seen on eBay was
$124.99 for turbine without tender.

Get on their mailing list, some of the offerings are very, very interesting.

Oh, by the way, T-World is aware that some of its associates are too much into
the New York City "minute" and ask that you get operator's name for feedback
purposes.


Jon



________________________________
From: Jon Ruehle <coolruehle@...>
To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, March 1, 2012 5:56:52 AM
Subject: RE: [handlaidtrack] Trainworld

 
No different than me buying a dryer at HomeDepot.com, then getting a 10%
coupon via email the following week. I guess they thought I might need a
washer?

From: Ken Burney [mailto:wkburney@...]
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 5:15 PM
To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [handlaidtrack] Trainworld

That would make me mad. I hope they get news of your post and maybe change
the way the deal with a customer letting them know their sale sucks and they
aren't effectively drawing sales with a discount like that.

Ken the guy from AR

_____

From: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com <mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of seameadow17
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 9:55 AM
To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com <mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [handlaidtrack] Trainworld

Has anyone dealt with this company before? I have purchased much from this
company, usually without a problem. I received an e-mail from them offering
me
five dollars off if I spend between one hundred to two hundred dollars. I
shot
an e-mail back stating five dollars off of that amount surely would not get
me
to spend my money. The responce I received was, "get a life"!
Is this something a hobby supplier should be telling a dedicated customer?
What
gives? Are suppliers now some how elevated to being God's that they can
belittle their customers?
I know where I won't be shopping anymore!!!!
jgviolante

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a client who needs a series of curved turnouts for his yard entrance and
exit.  About 8 LH / 8 RH.  68"+ radii.

Also several curved single cross over assemblies.

I used a David Diehl from Indiana somewhere years ago not sure who is doing it
now??

Code 148 0w5.  tt

On 05/03/2012 03:49, Pilgrim wrote:
>
> I have a client who needs a series of curved turnouts for his yard
> entrance and exit. About 8 LH / 8 RH. 68"+ radii.
>
> Also several curved single cross over assemblies.
>
> I used a David Diehl from Indiana somewhere years ago not sure who is
> doing it now??
>
> Code 148 0w5. tt
>
>
Hi,

I may be able to help, if you are interested please contact me with
exact specifications for a quote.

--
Stephen Freeman
Finescale Track,Pointwork and Signals
10mm to 2mm scales
*http://www.borg-rail.com*
siret 509 386 108 00013


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have a Fast Tracks HO  #5 double slip turnout for sale built with Micro
Engneering code 70 rail built with wood and Printed circuit board ties, all
metal frogs and prewired ready for installation.
Asking $65 OBO+ shipping via USPS Priority
Payments by Paypal, M.O or checks (need to clear to ship)
Thanks Clint Gruzalski
gruzalskic@...
Link to Fasttracks webb site with photo of double slip turnout (left side in
photo)to show how they look completed
http://fast-tracks.net/slideshows/general/images/slip_detail_1.jpg

email address?  my contact info on my web site.

www.curvedbenchwork.net  tt


--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, Stephen <borgrailuk@...> wrote:
>
> On 05/03/2012 03:49, Pilgrim wrote:
> >
> > I have a client who needs a series of curved turnouts for his yard
> > entrance and exit. About 8 LH / 8 RH. 68"+ radii.
> >
> > Also several curved single cross over assemblies.
> >
> > I used a David Diehl from Indiana somewhere years ago not sure who is
> > doing it now??
> >
> > Code 148 0w5. tt
> >
> >
> Hi,
>
> I may be able to help, if you are interested please contact me with
> exact specifications for a quote.
>
> --
> Stephen Freeman
> Finescale Track,Pointwork and Signals
> 10mm to 2mm scales
> *http://www.borg-rail.com*
> siret 509 386 108 00013
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi,

I could not find an email address on your website, so have replied off-group via
Yahoo.

I am aware that I have had 2 phone calls recently from the USA, which I was
unable to answer. If anybody on here has tried, you can leave a message, just
wait for the beep after both the French ISP's message and mine.

--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, "Pilgrim" <tomthorpetrains@...> wrote:
>
>
> email address?  my contact info on my web site.
>
> www.curvedbenchwork.net  tt
>
>
> --- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, Stephen <borgrailuk@> wrote:
> >
> > On 05/03/2012 03:49, Pilgrim wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a client who needs a series of curved turnouts for his yard
> > > entrance and exit. About 8 LH / 8 RH. 68"+ radii.
> > >
> > > Also several curved single cross over assemblies.
> > >
> > > I used a David Diehl from Indiana somewhere years ago not sure who is
> > > doing it now??
> > >
> > > Code 148 0w5. tt
> > >
> > >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I may be able to help, if you are interested please contact me with
> > exact specifications for a quote.
> >
> > --
> > Stephen Freeman
> > Finescale Track,Pointwork and Signals
> > 10mm to 2mm scales
> > *http://www.borg-rail.com*
> > siret 509 386 108 00013
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

I have for sale Fast Tracks HO Scale #5 Right and left turnouts, all metal
frogs, printed circuit board and wood ties, code 70 or 83 your choice!!
Asking $22 each + shipping
Payments by Paypal
shipping via USPS Priority
Thanks Clint Gruzalski
gruzalskic@...

tomthorpetrains(at)yahoo(dot)com

coded for scanners. tt



--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, "borgrailuk" <borgrailuk@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I could not find an email address on your website, so have replied off-group
via Yahoo.
>
> I am aware that I have had 2 phone calls recently from the USA, which I was
unable to answer. If anybody on here has tried, you can leave a message, just
wait for the beep after both the French ISP's message and mine.
>
> --- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, "Pilgrim" <tomthorpetrains@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > email address?  my contact info on my web site.
> >
> > www.curvedbenchwork.net  tt
> >
> >
> > --- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, Stephen <borgrailuk@> wrote:
> > >
> > > On 05/03/2012 03:49, Pilgrim wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a client who needs a series of curved turnouts for his yard
> > > > entrance and exit. About 8 LH / 8 RH. 68"+ radii.
> > > >
> > > > Also several curved single cross over assemblies.
> > > >
> > > > I used a David Diehl from Indiana somewhere years ago not sure who is
> > > > doing it now??
> > > >
> > > > Code 148 0w5. tt
> > > >
> > > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I may be able to help, if you are interested please contact me with
> > > exact specifications for a quote.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Stephen Freeman
> > > Finescale Track,Pointwork and Signals
> > > 10mm to 2mm scales
> > > *http://www.borg-rail.com*
> > > siret 509 386 108 00013
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>

I am about to start building my S Scale Wisconsin Central Ltd layout and am
going to be handlaying my track.  I am using Fast Tracks jigs for the switches
as well as cross ties from them.  I am wondering what the best sub roadbed would
be or is for handlaying track.

Thanks
Michael Ostertag
Green Bay, WI
wsmwrr@...

I think this has been discussed in great detail on this list.  I believe the
majority opinion is that Homasote is the best general purpose sub roadbed.
I use it full thickness rather than the cut down Homabed.  Below the
Homasote I have used a variety of materials, 3/4 plywood, 1" particle board
(used for counter tops), and 1 1/2" wood spline, held down with either
carpenters glue or contact cement.  All have worked very well.  I prefer
full thickness (not 'profile') ties for better spike holding and I only use
PC ties as temporary positioning devices.  There are plenty of opoinions in
this group individuals of course prefer what works best based on their
individual skills.

Earl Hackett
Modeling the C&O in 1952



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 03/24/2012 06:20 AM, Michael wrote:
> I am wondering what the best sub roadbed would be or is for handlaying track.
>

If you're going to us spikes, Homasote (or HomaBed) is probably the
choice of most.

I've read about cases where full height ties were glued down to whatever
and then short spikes were used that didn't go all the way through the ties.

If you're going to glue both the ties and the rails most any smooth
sub-roadbed will do.

--
It's turtles, all the way down!

I use full height O scale ties glued with white glue to cork roadbed (on top
of Homasote) or glued directly to the Homasote.  Rail is spiked down with
regular length spikes with no problem.
Charlie

----- Original Message -----

> If you're going to us spikes, Homasote (or HomaBed) is probably the
> choice of most.
>
> I've read about cases where full height ties were glued down to whatever
> and then short spikes were used that didn't go all the way through the
> ties.
>
> If you're going to glue both the ties and the rails most any smooth
> sub-roadbed will do.
>

I just started using 2" spline, with Homasote roadbed. I have found it
hard to get the diverging spline under turnouts just right, but like I
said, I just started so probably just need more practice. I went with 2"
so I could easily tie into 2" foam insulation that I am also
experimenting with. I'm using Fast Track jigs too.
Mike

Overkill is a good thing here.  Install the through route splines and then add
the diverging route splines.  I ran the diverging spline pieces about 2" behind
the points.  Start by adding one to the the side of the through route and build
on that.  Apply additional splines to make the overall structure match as
closely as possible the desired diverging angle and route.  After planing it
smooth and adding Homasote, many sins will be forgiven.  Since I build my
turnouts to match the particular spot, this has never been a problem for me.

--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, Mike King <mmk01529@...> wrote:
>
> I just started using 2" spline, with Homasote roadbed. I have found it
> hard to get the diverging spline under turnouts just right, but like I
> said, I just started so probably just need more practice. I went with 2"
> so I could easily tie into 2" foam insulation that I am also
> experimenting with. I'm using Fast Track jigs too.
> Mike
>

Judging by the number of shipments I've made World-wide, there are now a
lot of those "cases" :)

Our spikes are not specifically designed for "S" scale, but they seem to
be popular for that as well as HO and O. We don't offer turnout fixtures
in S yet though.

Andy

www.proto87.com

On 3/24/2012 10:10 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

>
> I've read about cases where full height ties were glued down to whatever
> and then short spikes were used that didn't go all the way through the ties.
>
> If you're going to glue both the ties and the rails most any smooth
> sub-roadbed will do.
>

What method can be used to determine if old 1970's Atlas 0 scale rail is solid
nickle silver or nickle silver plated brass?

I have cases of new old stock made over a period of time. Some of the rail is
very silver in appearance, some has a slight off silver haze to  it.  The ends
of all the rail is very nickle silver in appearance.

The earthen toned haze has me asking the question. The rail is obviously from
different batches.  Just never saw this variation before.

I have worked with nickle silver plated brass Atlas rail before but it was very
N/S on the outside and very brass in the core.

?????????? tt

I've never heard of nickel plated rail, but there was a few years during
college that I was out of the hobby.

Nickle silver is a term applied to a range of Ni/Cu alloys.  Depending on he
nickel content NS alloys can vary in appearance from silver to a slightly
yellow color.  Lead and zinc are also commonly found in nickel silver
alloys.


Earl Hackett
Modeling the C&O in 1952



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Earl,

Thank you.  Seems like as I thought, a batch variant.

Additionally I notice that from being stacked in the Atlas cases for 37 years
the rail with a yellowish tinge takes on a very slight stain inprint from the
back of the bare ties of the 3' flex track on top of it.  Comes off easily with
a LGB or MTH rail cleaner.

The nickle silver plating can be very dangerous.  I worked on removing a 1970's
0 scale 2 rail railroad and in many places the nickle silver would peel off and
splinter from wear.  It would slice into your skin during handling.

Somewhat like the "snake heads" of early American prototype strap rail problems.

Again, any hobby level way to test for 100% nickle silver? tt



--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com, "Earl Hackett" <hacketet@...> wrote:
>
> I've never heard of nickel plated rail, but there was a few years during
> college that I was out of the hobby.
>
> Nickle silver is a term applied to a range of Ni/Cu alloys.  Depending on he
> nickel content NS alloys can vary in appearance from silver to a slightly
> yellow color.  Lead and zinc are also commonly found in nickel silver
> alloys.
>
>
> Earl Hackett
> Modeling the C&O in 1952
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I really didn't answer your question did I...

Any white metal plated on brass rail is probably straight nickel.
Controlling an alloy plating bath is much more difficult than a pure metal.
If you suspect a plating, just cut through it and look at the interior - the
yellow brass color will be easily recognized.  As for solid rail, I only
know of a few materials and they can usually be identified quite easily:

Nickel Silver: white to slight tan, non-magnetic
Aluminum: white, non-magnetic, light weight, not used in the smaller codes
Steel: white to gray, magnetic (may be Ni plated to prevent corrosion)
Stainless steel: white, slightly magnetic
         (alloy 316 is non-magnetic, but it's expensive and difficult to work
so I don't believe it would be used in model RR rail)
Brass: yellow to tan color

Earl Hackett
Modeling the C&O in 1952



   _____

From: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com [mailto:handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Pilgrim
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2012 8:21 AM
To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [handlaidtrack] Re: How to test N/S/brass rail material





Earl,

Thank you. Seems like as I thought, a batch variant.

Additionally I notice that from being stacked in the Atlas cases for 37
years the rail with a yellowish tinge takes on a very slight stain inprint
from the back of the bare ties of the 3' flex track on top of it. Comes off
easily with a LGB or MTH rail cleaner.

The nickle silver plating can be very dangerous. I worked on removing a
1970's 0 scale 2 rail railroad and in many places the nickle silver would
peel off and splinter from wear. It would slice into your skin during
handling.

Somewhat like the "snake heads" of early American prototype strap rail
problems.

Again, any hobby level way to test for 100% nickle silver? tt

--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com> , "Earl Hackett" <hacketet@...>
wrote:
>
> I've never heard of nickel plated rail, but there was a few years during
> college that I was out of the hobby.
>
> Nickle silver is a term applied to a range of Ni/Cu alloys. Depending on
he
> nickel content NS alloys can vary in appearance from silver to a slightly
> yellow color. Lead and zinc are also commonly found in nickel silver
> alloys.
>
>
> Earl Hackett
> Modeling the C&O in 1952
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Earl,Your list sounds good, but I may add that Nickel Silver rail often times
has a yellowish brassy tinge to it, especially in photographs and various
lighting conditions.  While up close and in person, it generally looks like
silver/steel rail, it takes on a definite yellowish tinge under various
conditions.  I have noticed that at home and when I look at pictures on eBay, 
sometimes the Nickel Silver track appears to be brass track.  I have also seen
that same appearance with Nickel Silver tires on steamer locomotives.  I suppose
that is the copper color that comes into play that is part of the Nickel Silver
metal content.  I have never seen this effect on steel rail or steel loco
tires.Regards,
Vic Bitleris
Raleigh, NC

To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com
From: hacketet@...
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 09:42:25 -0400
Subject: RE: [handlaidtrack] Re: How to test N/S/brass rail material




























       I really didn't answer your question did I...



Any white metal plated on brass rail is probably straight nickel.

Controlling an alloy plating bath is much more difficult than a pure metal.

If you suspect a plating, just cut through it and look at the interior - the

yellow brass color will be easily recognized.  As for solid rail, I only

know of a few materials and they can usually be identified quite easily:



Nickel Silver: white to slight tan, non-magnetic

Aluminum: white, non-magnetic, light weight, not used in the smaller codes

Steel: white to gray, magnetic (may be Ni plated to prevent corrosion)

Stainless steel: white, slightly magnetic

         (alloy 316 is non-magnetic, but it's expensive and difficult to work

so I don't believe it would be used in model RR rail)

Brass: yellow to tan color



Earl Hackett

Modeling the C&O in 1952





_____



From: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com [mailto:handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of Pilgrim

Sent: Friday, April 06, 2012 8:21 AM

To: handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [handlaidtrack] Re: How to test N/S/brass rail material



Earl,



Thank you. Seems like as I thought, a batch variant.



Additionally I notice that from being stacked in the Atlas cases for 37

years the rail with a yellowish tinge takes on a very slight stain inprint

from the back of the bare ties of the 3' flex track on top of it. Comes off

easily with a LGB or MTH rail cleaner.



The nickle silver plating can be very dangerous. I worked on removing a

1970's 0 scale 2 rail railroad and in many places the nickle silver would

peel off and splinter from wear. It would slice into your skin during

handling.



Somewhat like the "snake heads" of early American prototype strap rail

problems.



Again, any hobby level way to test for 100% nickle silver? tt



--- In handlaidtrack@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:handlaidtrack%40yahoogroups.com> , "Earl Hackett" <hacketet@...>

wrote:

>

> I've never heard of nickel plated rail, but there was a few years during

> college that I was out of the hobby.

>

> Nickle silver is a term applied to a range of Ni/Cu alloys. Depending on

he

> nickel content NS alloys can vary in appearance from silver to a slightly

> yellow color. Lead and zinc are also commonly found in nickel silver

> alloys.

>

>

> Earl Hackett

> Modeling the C&O in 1952

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Earl,

There was some O scale (0.172) rail made from red brass, which had a
decidedly darker and more orange color than the more common yellow brass
rail.  I think it was sold by Bob Peare, but that was a long time ago.

FWIW, in the interest of trivial and historical completeness, zinc rail
was also made during WWII.  I acquired one piece in a bunch of old, used
rail.

In addition to its cloudy, light grey color, similar to weathered lead
flashing, if picked up by one end, the three foot long piece would
slowly sag into a complete downward bend.  And I am ASSuming that it was
not actually lead...

Steve Bartlett

Earl Hackett wrote:

...
...
    As for solid rail, I only know of a few materials and they can
usually be identified quite easily:

Nickel Silver: white to slight tan, non-magnetic
Aluminum: white, non-magnetic, light weight, not used in the smaller codes
Steel: white to gray, magnetic (may be Ni plated to prevent corrosion)
Stainless steel: white, slightly magnetic
          (alloy 316 is non-magnetic, but it's expensive and difficult to
work
so I don't believe it would be used in model RR rail)
Brass: yellow to tan color

Earl Hackett
Modeling the C&O in 1952

Evening G Gaugers!

   I have up for grabs a box of 217 black 4 inch long G gauge Llagas creek tie
strips for their code 250 and 215 rail.  These are used and a bit dirty.  Some
tie strips may be missing a few of the spike heads, but when assembled will not
interfere with the holding power of the ties.  The extreme majority of the tie
strips are in complete condition with respect to the spike heads.  Retail from
Llagas Creek on their newest price sheet, these run for 60 cents apiece.  A $130
dollar value!

   I am asking $65 or best offer plus shipping.   I can send you some pictures if
interested.

   My email is paleobenji_1 at yahoo dot com.  I accept paypal.

Cheers,
Benjamin Eckstein

AOL's email is easily hacked if you have a weak password.  I may begin to
disallow members using AOL email addresses in my groups if this continues.