I am involved in a metal spinning project.
I want to anneal 0.025Ó sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.

A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.

IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.

Thanks
lance
+++++

650 degrees plus or minus five degrees? This sounds more like tempering than
annealing! At any rate, the best you're going to do is to place cut sheets into
a computer controlled electric kiln, or send the separate sheets out for heat
treat. BTW, you can get most any temperature out of a gas fired kiln you wish,
simply by introducing secondary fan blown air into the heating equipment; you're
just not going to maintain plus or minus five degrees.
Mikey

----- Original Message -----
From: crashbone256 <wheezer606@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 20 May 2012 15:34:41 -0000 (UTC)
Subject: [hobbicast] anneal aluminum sheet





















I am involved in a metal spinning project.


I want to anneal 0.025Ó sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.



A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.


A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.


A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.



IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.



Thanks


lance


+++++










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Lance

You could use a piloted gas burner and a solenoid main gas valve controlled by a
cheap ebay temperature controller with a K type thermocouple.
You would need some sort of flame failure device for the pilot. An old gas
boiler control valve would provide that functionality. You could even use a new
one as they are cheap to buy.


Malcolm


 
I don't suffer from insanity I enjoy it!
Mene, mene, tekel, upharsin
The writing is on the wall.


________________________________
  From: crashbone256 <wheezer606@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 4:34 PM
Subject: [hobbicast] anneal aluminum sheet


 
I am involved in a metal spinning project.
I want to anneal 0.025Ó sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.

A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.

IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.

Thanks
lance
+++++




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On 5/20/2012 11:34 AM, crashbone256 wrote:
>
> I am involved in a metal spinning project.
> I want to anneal 0.025Ó sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.
>
> A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
> A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
> A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower
> settings.
>
> IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.
>
> Thanks
> lance
> +++++
>
Change the controller on the toaster oven.

--


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

Think, Draw, Print. 3D printers ROCK!

http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/PrusaMendel2012-1/

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I read once about a person forming aluminum sheet for car bodywork
or something.   He worked it until it got hard, then got out the acetylene
torch.   He sooted it up with an all acetylene flame, then put the oxygen
in the flame and heated it from clean side.   When the soot disappeared
from the side opposite the flame it was ready to be worked again.
I'd suggest practice on a scrap piece  before you committed good
material if you try doing it this way.

Stephen C. Lovely


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Lance;
I heat treat a lot of rock so it can be worked and a lot of times , I use a
turkey roaster.
Take the inside pan out and fill abot 3/4 full of viculite and it will go to 500
deg. and
hold it all day..

 "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems but it will annoy enough
people to be worth the effort"

               Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass,
its about learning to dance in the rain

                                        \
                            Dallas  IMAX 1340

From: crashbone256 <wheezer606@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 9:34 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] anneal aluminum sheet


 
I am involved in a metal spinning project.
I want to anneal 0.025Ó sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.

A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.

IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.

Thanks
lance
+++++




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I don't know why you need to hold the temperature for two hours,once it's up to
heat, it's good. I learnt to use soup rubbed on the back, heat with a torch
until the soap turns black. You need to heat evenly! The soap is supposed to
stop you melting it by mistake!

 
Matthew TINKER
CNC conversion 1944 Colchester Lathe build-up log
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35519


________________________________
  From: crashbone256 <wheezer606@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, 20 May 2012, 17:34
Subject: [hobbicast] anneal aluminum sheet


 
I am involved in a metal spinning project.
I want to anneal 0.025Ó sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.

A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.

IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.

Thanks
lance
+++++




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Burning the soot off is a standard practice when "normalizing" chrome
moly aircraft tubing after welding a "cluster".  The flame is then
pulled back allowing a slow cooling so it won't get hard and brittle....
Not exactly an annealing process, but related..........  aluminum of
course has different characteristics.

Here is a page which details annealing procedures very clearly and simply:

http://www.mlevel3.com/BCIT/heat%20treat.htm





      Howard



On 05/20/2012 11:39 AM, Stephen Lovely wrote:
> I read once about a person forming aluminum sheet for car bodywork
> or something.   He worked it until it got hard, then got out the acetylene
> torch.   He sooted it up with an all acetylene flame, then put the oxygen
> in the flame and heated it from clean side.   When the soot disappeared
> from the side opposite the flame it was ready to be worked again.
> I'd suggest practice on a scrap piece  before you committed good
> material if you try doing it this way.
>
> Stephen C. Lovely
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "crashbone256" <wheezer606@...> wrote:
>
> I am involved in a metal spinning project.
> I want to anneal 0.025Ó sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.
>
> A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
> A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
> A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.
>
> IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.
>
> Thanks
> lance
> +++++
>

Lance

You may be making more work than necessary. Quarter
inch aluminum should be able to be annealed with
a torch, either by sooting or soaping and burning
the black off.

However, some alloys of aluminum just plain refuse
to be annealed. Ask me how I know.<g> My suggestion
is to get some 1100-O aluminum which is already
annealed. McMaster is one source where I get mine.

Check out my YouTube video showing a demo
of spinning from start to finish in my shop.

<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7QB0-AlwtI&feature=plcp>

Rod

Heat treat rock?
I gotta know why and what for?
Thanks,
LL


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dallas Richardson <classicpoints@...> wrote:
>
> Lance;
> I heat treat a lot of rock so it can be worked and a lot of times , I use a
turkey roaster.
> Take the inside pan out and fill abot 3/4 full of viculite and it will go to
500 deg. and
> hold it all day..
>
>  "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems but it will annoy
enough people to be worth the effort"
>
>                Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass,
its about learning to dance in the rain
>
>
                                        \
                            Dallas  IMAX 1340
>
> From: crashbone256 <wheezer606@...>
> To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 9:34 AM
> Subject: [hobbicast] anneal aluminum sheet
>
>
>  
> I am involved in a metal spinning project.
> I want to anneal 0.025Ã" sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.
>
> A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
> A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
> A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.
>
> IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.
>
> Thanks
> lance
> +++++
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I have a Weber Q BBQ.
Set on high, top closed it records 700*F +/-2*F
in today’s ambient conditions.

So I adjusted the burner flame and annealed the aluminum sheet.

BTW, I previously had tried the acetylene soot and burn-off method
but with this thin sheet, the burn-off / melt temp are too close.

Thanks for all the ideas.

I will build an annealing oven some crappy weather day.

lance
+++++



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Lyle;
Sorry that just kinds slipped out..  Did you ever hear of the term Knapper
or knapping ??  Knapping is the art of making arrow heads, the old way,
like what the Indians done hundreds of years ago.. I am a knapper.
Flint has to be heat treated before you can work it.. Its kind of like taking
the temper out of steel before you can make a knife out of it... As in making
a knife out of a "Bastard" file..  If you want to know more?? Lets take it OFF
line..

                                 Lord, today
please Keep your arm around my shoulder
                                       
  and your hand placed firmly over my mouth 

               Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass,
its about learning to dance in the rain

                                        \
                            Dallas  IMAX 1340

From: Lyle <creepinogie@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 8:54 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: anneal aluminum sheet


 
Heat treat rock?
I gotta know why and what for?
Thanks,
LL

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dallas Richardson <classicpoints@...> wrote:
>
> Lance;
> I heat treat a lot of rock so it can be worked and a lot of times , I use a
turkey roaster.
> Take the inside pan out and fill abot 3/4 full of viculite and it will go to
500 deg. and
> hold it all day..
>
>  "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems but it will annoy
enough people to be worth the effort"
>
>                Life isn't about
waiting for the storm to pass, its about learning to dance in the rain
>
>
                    \
                    \
                    \
        Dallas  IMAX 1340
>
> From: crashbone256 <wheezer606@...>
> To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 9:34 AM
> Subject: [hobbicast] anneal aluminum sheet
>
>
>  
> I am involved in a metal spinning project.
> I want to anneal 0.025Ã" sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.
>
> A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
> A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
> A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.
>
> IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.
>
> Thanks
> lance
> +++++
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

OK, that makes sense now. I also know stone masons would depending on the type
of stone, heat stones proior to splitting them. Man, knapping is a real art. I
was just curious.
Lyle


--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dallas Richardson <classicpoints@...> wrote:
>
> Lyle;
> Sorry that just kinds slipped out..  Did you ever hear of the term Knapper
> or knapping ??  Knapping is the art of making arrow heads, the old way,
> like what the Indians done hundreds of years ago.. I am a knapper.
> Flint has to be heat treated before you can work it.. Its kind of like taking
> the temper out of steel before you can make a knife out of it... As in making
> a knife out of a "Bastard" file..  If you want to know more?? Lets take it
OFF
> line..
>
>                                  Lord, today
please Keep your arm around my shoulder
>                                        
  and your hand placed firmly over my mouth 
>
>                Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass,
its about learning to dance in the rain
>
>
                                        \
                            Dallas  IMAX 1340
>
> From: Lyle <creepinogie@...>
> To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 8:54 AM
> Subject: [hobbicast] Re: anneal aluminum sheet
>
>
>  
> Heat treat rock?
> I gotta know why and what for?
> Thanks,
> LL
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dallas Richardson <classicpoints@> wrote:
> >
> > Lance;
> > I heat treat a lot of rock so it can be worked and a lot of times , I use a
turkey roaster.
> > Take the inside pan out and fill abot 3/4 full of viculite and it will go to
500 deg. and
> > hold it all day..
> >
> >  "A positive attitude may not solve all your problems but it will annoy
enough people to be worth the effort"
> >
> >                Life isn't about
waiting for the storm to pass, its about learning to dance in the rain
> >
> >
                    \
                    \
                    \
        Dallas  IMAX 1340
> >
> > From: crashbone256 <wheezer606@>
> > To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 9:34 AM
> > Subject: [hobbicast] anneal aluminum sheet
> >
> >
> >  
> > I am involved in a metal spinning project.
> > I want to anneal 0.025Ã" sheet aluminum at 650*F for 2 hours.
> >
> > A toaster oven on bake goes to 500*.
> > A hot plate on high with kaowool cover reaches 500*.
> > A propane furnace set low goes to 1000*, but is unstable at lower settings.
> >
> > IÕd like ideas how to hold 650*F (+/- 5*) for two hours.
> >
> > Thanks
> > lance
> > +++++
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi, Stone Tool:
Sorry for the slow reply :-)
I stumblede across your post while doing research on the Net (rather than the
group); wasn't online much in 2006.

As you know, I like people to make the burners as many different ways as
possible, and then share what they learn with others.

The original book was written as help for budding artists, who, having put the
time in for their BA degrees, suddenly find themselves pretty much under
qualified to do anything in the real world; never having been taught zip about
craft work, or introduced to equipment building.

Mikey

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Stone Tool <owly@...> wrote:
>
>  I'm making several 1 1/4" Mikey Burners.  to run my big tilting melt
> down furnace. I tried to use an oil furnace burner, but couldn't get the
>   heat out of it I wanted.  The first burner was built more or less to
> plans with all the aiming screws and stuff... works well.   I'm building
> the others using the lathe and mill for accuracy and eliminating all
> adjustments except for nozzle projection (sliding in and out), and of
> course the choke.  The two inch stainless flare will be welded into
> place.  The air slots are milled with an end mill.......  I am leaving
> them round to start with for comparison with the original with it's
> square ended slots.  My thinking here is that the end plug where the
> nozzle enters the burner tube can be made so it just overlaps the round
> ends enough to square them... the forward ends won't matter because the
> choke doesn't make much difference out of end of travel... max air.
> The original works beautifully with an .045 tip.  I tried an .062 tip
> and couldn't get enough air to it... still pretty good, but some orange
> tips on the flame.  I tried the .062 both straight and tapered... didn't
> seem to make much difference.  I'm tapering them in the lathe as I can't
> get them locally in a tapered tip in these sizes.  Gas pressure is about
> 25 lbs.
>  The Mikey 1.25 inch burner throws an impressive fireball........  very
> impressive!..... but not enough for my monster furnace to heat at
> anything like the rate I want.  I'm looking at a cluster of 2 or 3 of
> them rather than building a monster.  I have all the stuff to make the
> 1.25" burner including 2" stainless.
>
>  Notes:
>
> 1:   Electrical conduit makes a perfect slip fit on the outside of
> 1.25"  black pipe for a choke sleeve.  Re: [hobbicast]
> BackyardMetalcasting.com has been updated
>
> 2:   If you have a lathe, it is pretty easy to press a bolt into
> ordinary schedule 40 1/4" pipe and drill it and tap for a
>  mig tip rather than buying expensive 1/8 schedule 80
>
> 3:   1/4" rod wrapped around the end of the burner tube and spot
>  welded to it ( two pieces spaced apart )... makes a quick
>  and easy bushing for the flare to ride on.  Spin it in the
>  lathe or on the grinder to bring it down to a good fit,
>  optimize and weld with 308-16 rod
>
> 4:   It is easier to machine a plug for the end of the pipe with a
>  lathe drilled hole than to mess around with taps and set
>  screws on the nozzle holder.  I won't do that again.  This
>  way only one set screw is needed and of course one tapped
>  hole.
>
> 5:    An acetylene regulator attaches easily to a propane bottle and
>  allows you to crank the pressure up enough to do the job.
>
>
> 			 H.W.
>
> P.S.    Thanks Mikey.....for all your hard work in R&D on these.
>  Your book was an excellet investment ... money well spent.
>  I highly recommend it to anybody who wants to build a burner.
>

My first answer was a little sloppy; any wind that could blow out a mikey
burner, or one of Larry Zoellers modified side-arm burners, would be way to
stiff to be working outside in. However, if the burner isn't sheilded from
breezes, it's performance will go way down; almost as bad as an old Reil
burner's.
Mikey

--- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, "Chris" <c_reynolds2571@...> wrote:
>
> I do find the simplicity of a naturally aspirated burner appealing though.
Trying to find the right combination of blower and burner seems daunting to me.
I tried building a forced air burner at one time but the blower I had must not
have been powerful enough.
>
> Chris
>
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, michael.a.porter@ wrote:
> >
> > It will happen with a Mikey burner too. You have the right of things. Use a
fan-blown burner outside if you have a wind problem.
> > Mikey
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Chris <c_reynolds2571@>
> > To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:05:19 -0000 (UTC)
> > Subject: [hobbicast] Re: AIR FORCED GAS BURNER
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Not sure why this didn't go through the first time. . .
> >
> >
> >
> > I've been considering trying a forced air burner rather than naturally
aspirated. My reason isn't for more heat but since I cast outside it seems all
the burners I made in the past had a nasty habit of either changing mixture and
almost going out, or going out and then scaring the heck out of me when they
wooshed back to life. I was told that this is a common thing with naturally
aspirated burners. Now in all fairness I haven't tried a Mikey burner yet. I
have the book and I've been tossing around the idea of building one, but having
the heck scared out of me a few times in the past has up to this point been
enough to make me continue to use charcoal.
> >
> >
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>

Mikey:
      I built 6 of these burners....... that was a LONG time ago.   I
have one that is a cluster of 3 together which throws a massive fireball
and will ice up a single 100 lb bottle if run for very long.


              Howard

On 05/23/2012 10:12 AM, Michael Porter wrote:
> Hi, Stone Tool:
> Sorry for the slow reply :-)
> I stumblede across your post while doing research on the Net (rather than the
group); wasn't online much in 2006.
>
> As you know, I like people to make the burners as many different ways as
possible, and then share what they learn with others.
>
> The original book was written as help for budding artists, who, having put the
time in for their BA degrees, suddenly find themselves pretty much under
qualified to do anything in the real world; never having been taught zip about
craft work, or introduced to equipment building.
>
> Mikey
>
> --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Stone Tool<owly@...>  wrote:
>>  I'm making several 1 1/4" Mikey Burners.  to run my big tilting melt
>> down furnace. I tried to use an oil furnace burner, but couldn't get the
>>    heat out of it I wanted.  The first burner was built more or less to
>> plans with all the aiming screws and stuff... works well.   I'm building
>> the others using the lathe and mill for accuracy and eliminating all
>> adjustments except for nozzle projection (sliding in and out), and of
>> course the choke.  The two inch stainless flare will be welded into
>> place.  The air slots are milled with an end mill.......  I am leaving
>> them round to start with for comparison with the original with it's
>> square ended slots.  My thinking here is that the end plug where the
>> nozzle enters the burner tube can be made so it just overlaps the round
>> ends enough to square them... the forward ends won't matter because the
>> choke doesn't make much difference out of end of travel... max air.
>> The original works beautifully with an .045 tip.  I tried an .062 tip
>> and couldn't get enough air to it... still pretty good, but some orange
>> tips on the flame.  I tried the .062 both straight and tapered... didn't
>> seem to make much difference.  I'm tapering them in the lathe as I can't
>> get them locally in a tapered tip in these sizes.  Gas pressure is about
>> 25 lbs.
>>  The Mikey 1.25 inch burner throws an impressive fireball........  very
>> impressive!..... but not enough for my monster furnace to heat at
>> anything like the rate I want.  I'm looking at a cluster of 2 or 3 of
>> them rather than building a monster.  I have all the stuff to make the
>> 1.25" burner including 2" stainless.
>>
>>  Notes:
>>
>> 1:   Electrical conduit makes a perfect slip fit on the outside of
>> 1.25"  black pipe for a choke sleeve.  Re: [hobbicast]
>> BackyardMetalcasting.com has been updated
>>
>> 2:   If you have a lathe, it is pretty easy to press a bolt into
>> ordinary schedule 40 1/4" pipe and drill it and tap for a
>>  mig tip rather than buying expensive 1/8 schedule 80
>>
>> 3:   1/4" rod wrapped around the end of the burner tube and spot
>>  welded to it ( two pieces spaced apart )... makes a quick
>>  and easy bushing for the flare to ride on.  Spin it in the
>>  lathe or on the grinder to bring it down to a good fit,
>>  optimize and weld with 308-16 rod
>>
>> 4:   It is easier to machine a plug for the end of the pipe with a
>>  lathe drilled hole than to mess around with taps and set
>>  screws on the nozzle holder.  I won't do that again.  This
>>  way only one set screw is needed and of course one tapped
>>  hole.
>>
>> 5:    An acetylene regulator attaches easily to a propane bottle and
>>  allows you to crank the pressure up enough to do the job.
>>
>>
>> 			 H.W.
>>
>> P.S.    Thanks Mikey.....for all your hard work in R&D on these.
>>  Your book was an excellet investment ... money well spent.
>>  I highly recommend it to anybody who wants to build a burner.
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Someone posted a video of our 1PM casting demo at the Orlando Mini Maker
Faire.
Unfortunately, they didn't wait around for the shakeout. Jamie
Cunningham's foam skull turned out awesome!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKWjDFAUpSA

--


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

Think, Draw, Print. 3D printers ROCK!

http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/PrusaMendel2012-1/

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/

Slide show with a close up video of the pour near the end.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBq4UJepMNA
Thanks to Jamie Cunningham for a large part of the content and his
band's music!

--


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

Think, Draw, Print. 3D printers ROCK!

http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/PrusaMendel2012-1/

http://www.plansandprojects.com My hobby pages are here:
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/

Visit the castinghobby FAQ:
http://castinghobbyfaq.bareboogerhost.com/

I did this video of the process I used to make an iron cross.:

http://youtu.be/ZlUGH_em_pA

Dave D

The Great Mickey Porter;
 
Hey guy;  I would like to be one of the first people to congratulate
you.. cause I was reading my latest issue of "The Lindsay Publications"
and guess what I ran across??? LOL  I said to myself, Self , I know
that guy... Very nice piece and your illustrations go right along with the
theme of the magazine.. Again , congrats and remember us little guys
when you get rich!!!
 
The VERY best to you Mike.. You earned every bit of it..




                                                         Dallas  IMAX 1340



From: Michael Porter <michael.a.porter@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 10:20 AM
Subject: [hobbicast] Re: AIR FORCED GAS BURNER


 
My first answer was a little sloppy; any wind that could blow out a mikey
burner, or one of Larry Zoellers modified side-arm burners, would be way to
stiff to be working outside in. However, if the burner isn't sheilded from
breezes, it's performance will go way down; almost as bad as an old Reil
burner's.
Mikey

---

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I had a go at making bronze and I used pewter as a source of tin. It worked
really well and I made two videos on how I did it.

   http://youtu.be/A4Tl1nEUQGk  http://youtu.be/1cRg2Anw_ls

Can anyone tell me what is in pewter? On the bottom of the mug I used it says
97% Sn but what is in the other 3%? I think it could be copper and antimony.
                Ernie

Found this at "Answers"

Bronze is an alloy of copper and tin. It may also contain phosphorus, manganese,
aluminum, or silicon.
It is not of fixed ratios.

>
> The following tables present the composition and physical properties of many
common alloys. All compositions are given in mass per cents. For example, 50Bi,
25Pb, 12.5Sn, 12.5Cd means 50% Bi, 25% Pb, 12.5% Sn and 12.5% Cd, all by mass.
There is a main table immediately below and a supplementary table below that.
The tables may contain errors. If the you detect an error please respond to the
e-mail address at the bottom of the second table so that the error can be
corrected.
>
> This table is in the public domain. Users are encouraged to copy and to
distribute it without restriction.


>       Copper 99.9 + Cu
> Deoxidized copper 8.50 17.71e-6 1082 99.90 + Cu, 0.01P
> Deoxidized copper 8.91 17.71
> 1082 90Cu, 10Al
> Resistac 1066 80-90Cu, 8-10Al, 6-7FeAmpco Metal 7.20 649 88-96.1Cu,
2.3-10.5Al, Fe, Sn
> Aluminum bronze 7.50-8.19 1038-71 50Cu, 25Au, 25Ag
> Cooper's pen metal 47Cu, 33Au, 20Ag
> Gold 8 carat 40Cu, 31Au, 19Ag, 10Pd
> Palladium gold 77Cu, 15Pb, 8Sn "B" Alloy, P.R.R. 95Cu, 5Mn
> Manganese bronze 8.8 1060 82-6Cu, 4-15Mn, 2-12Ni, Fe
> Manganin 82Cu, 15Mn, 3Ni
> Manganin 8.5 70Cu, 25Mn, 5Ni
> Manganin 61Cu, 26Mn, 13Al
> Magnetic alloy 88.5Cu, 5Ni, 5Sn, 1.5Si
> Barberite 8.80 1070 80Cu, 20Ni
> Nickeline 8.5 1185 75Cu, 25Ni
> Nickel coinage, U.S.A 1205 75Cu, 20Ni, 5Zn 8.58 16.40 1150 65Cu, 18Ni, 17Zn
Nickel silver 18% A 8.75 18.36 1110 60Cu, 40Ni Constantan 8.4 1280 55-65Cu,
12-18Ni, 11-17Zn 8-12Fe, 0.5-1Si Glass mold alloy, U.S.P. 1,360,773 57Cu,   
20Ni, 20Zn, 3Al Typewriter metal 55Cu, 18Ni, 27Zn Nickel silver 18% B 8.69 1055
45-60Cu, 40-55Ni, 0-1.4-Mn, 0.1C, Fe Constantan 45Cu, 33Ni, 16Sn, 5.5Zn, 1Bi
> Sea water bronze 67-81Cu, 19-30Pt, 0-4Zn
> Cooper's gold 94.8-96Cu, 3-4Si, 1-1.2Mn 8.46 16.99 1000 98.55Cu, 1.40Sn
Phono-electric wire 95.5Cu, 4.3Sn, 0.2P
> Phosphor bronze 30 8.91 18.90 1050 95Cu, 4Sn, 1Zn
> Coinage bronze 8.96 92-7Cu, 1-8Sn, 0-2ZnMedal bronze 91.6Cu, 8.25Sn,
0.15Phosphor bronze 47 8.91 90Cu, 10Sn, trace P
> Phosphor bronze 209 9.00 90Cu, 10Sn
> Bronze, gun metal 8.8 18 1000 88Cu, 10Sn, 2Zn U.S.
> Government bronze, spec. G 82Cu, 16Sn, 2Zn
> Bronze bearings 83Cu, 14Sn, 3.5Pb
> Naval journal bearing, spec. HX 83Cu, 14Sn, 3.5Zn
> Naval journal bearing, spec. H 83Cu, 14Sn, 3Zn, 0.8P U.S.
> Government bronze, spec. H 79.7Cu, 10Sn, 9.5Sb, 0.8P
> Phosphor bronze 8.8 78Cu, 22Sn
> Bell metal 8.7 870 67Cu, 33Sn
> Bronze, speculum metal 8.6 18.6 745 58Cu, 28Sn, 9.5Pt, 3.5Zn, 1.5As
> Cooper's mirror 90Cu, 10Z
> Commercial bronze; red brass 8.80 18.18e-6 1050 89Cu, 9Zn, 2Pb
Hardware bronze 8.83 18.18 1050 85Cu, 15Zn
Red brass 8.75 18.72 1030 85Cu, 13Zn, 2Sn Pen metal 84Cu, 16Zn Medal metal 70Cu,
29Ni, 1Sn Adnic. 16.29 1205 70Cu, 29Zn, 1Sn Admiralty 8.17 20.16 935 67-72Cu,
28-33Zn, Pb, Fe Spring brass 67-70Cu, 30-33Zn, Pb, Fe Cartridge brass 67Cu, 33Zn
Brass, ordinary yellow 8.40 18.5 940 64Cu, 25Zn, 8.5Pb, 2.5Sn Ship nail brass
61.2Cu, 37.3Zn, 0.9Sn, 0.4Pb, 0.2Fe 61Cu, 39Zn Pin wire brass 905 60-1Cu,
31-7Zn, 1.4Sn, 0.7-.9Pb Pewter, for clock work 60Cu, 40Zn Muntz metal 840 60Cu,
25Zn, 15Ni German silver 18.4 60Cu, 19Zn, 10Al, 6Fe, 5Mn Hytensl bronze 980
58Cu, 42Zn Solder very refractory 850 58Cu, 17.5Zn, 11.5Ni, 11Co, 2Ag Chinese
silver 57Cu, 28Zn, 15Sn Solder, very soft, white 55Cu, 45Zn For brazing 55Cu,
25Zn, 20Ni German silver, common formula 53Cu, 43Zn, 1.3Sn, 0.3Pb Solder, hard
yellow 53Cu, 39Zn, 2.7Zn, 2.5Ni, 1.7Mn, 0.2Al Manganin 52Cu, 26Zn, 22Ni German
silver 8.45 51Cu, 32Zn, 9.5Pb, 6.4Ni, 1.6Sn Dienett's German silver 50Cu, 50Zn
Solder, refractory 900 50-7Cu, 43-50Zn Solder hard 50-62Cu, 20-32Zn, 12-30Ni
German silver, Birmingham 50-60Cu, 20-5Zn, 20-5Ni German silver, Austrian
(Gersdorf) 46Cu, 34Zn, 20Ni German silver, best

From Composition and Physical Properties of Alloys

( Several pewters noted)

Tin 78Sn 9Al, 8Zn, 5Cd Aluminum solder,
  Bu. Stands. SN1 70-94Sn, 3.7-15Sb, 1.8-5Cu, 0-9Pb, 0-5Zn
  Brittania metal, German 90-lSn, 7-8Sb, 1.4Cu
Brittania metal, plate 90Sn, 10Sb
  Brittania 255 90Sn, 7Sb, 3Cu Babbitt 85-90Sn, 9-11Sb, 0-3Zn, 0.2-1Cu
  Brittania metal, cast 85-90Sn, 5-10Sb, 1-3Cu, 0-3Zn, 0-2Bi
Brittania metal, English 89Sn, 7.3Sb, 3.7Cu
Babbitt metal 85-8Sn, 5.6-15Sb, 1-5Bi, 0.1-3.7 Cu, 0-1.5Zn
Brittania metal, spoons 82Sn, 12Sb, 6Cu
White metal 80Sn 20Sb 320 75Sn, 12.5Sb, 12.5Cu
Antifriction 7.53 233 72Sn, 24Sb, 3.9Cu
Brittania metal, plate (Ludenscheidt) 68Sn, 32Cd 7.70 180 85Sn, 6.8Cu, 6Bi 1.7Sb
Pewter 83Sn, 8.4Cu, 8.3Sb
Hard babbitt 97Sn,3Cu
Rhine metal 7.35 300 74-89Sn, 0-20Pb, 0-7.6Sb, 0-3.5Cu, Zn,
Pewter 88Sn, 8Pb, 4Cu, 0.5Sb
Tinfoil 67Sn, 33Pb
Solder, tinman's 180 60Sn, 40Pb
Tinsel 50Sn, 32Pb, 18Cd
Eutectic fusible alloy 145 86Sn, 9Zn, 5Al
Aluminum sokler, Bu. Stands. SN4 86Sn, 9Zn, 5Al, 0.25P
Aluminum solder, Bu. Stands. SN3 73Sn, 21Zn, 5Pb, 1P,
Sn Aluminum solder, Seifert 69Sn, 26Zn, 2.4Al, 2.4P
Aluminum solder, Bu. Stands. SN2 62Sn, 15Zn, 11Al, 8.3Pb, 2.5Cu, 1.2Sb
  Aluminum solder, Sterling 65Sn, 33Zn, 11Al, 1Cu
Aluminum solder, Soluminium 48Sn 48Zn, 3Cu, 1Pb, 1Sb
Brittania metal cast 41Sn 287,n, 3Cu, 0.6Mn,
  Aluminum solder, U.S P. 1,332,899

John

Read more:
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Give_the_Composition_of_Bronze._Please_its_urgent#ixzz\
1xYqjGW49
On Jun 11, 2012, at 11:46 PM, ferrman1001 wrote:

> I had a go at making bronze and I used pewter as a source of tin. It worked
really well and I made two videos on how I did it.
>
> http://youtu.be/A4Tl1nEUQGk http://youtu.be/1cRg2Anw_ls
>
> Can anyone tell me what is in pewter? On the bottom of the mug I used it says
97% Sn but what is in the other 3%? I think it could be copper and antimony.
> Ernie
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
to go.

Thanks,

Jim
--


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I'm not sure, but I may have been the first to use the HF mixer.  Here is
how i did it.  I have made a fw changes since then, though not much.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7zJJ_DCTo&list=UUIZ67pX7CzthddsGCHWvBtw&index=4\
&feature=plcp

Al

On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Jim Rogers <jr@...>wrote:

> **
>
>
> My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
> accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
> today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
> build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
> to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
> to go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> --
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Alan;
WOW WOW That is slick and it looks to be doing a fine job..
 
Well done




                                        \
                 Dallas  IMAX 1340



From: Allen Powell <apowellx@...>
To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Harbor Freight mini mixer muller


 
I'm not sure, but I may have been the first to use the HF mixer. Here is
how i did it. I have made a fw changes since then, though not much.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7zJJ_DCTo&list=UUIZ67pX7CzthddsGCHWvBtw&index=4\
&feature=plcp

Al

On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Jim Rogers <jr@...>wrote:

> **
>
>
> My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
> accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
> today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
> build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
> to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
> to go.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
> --
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Allen, what are the changes that you've made, and did you end up using
the top cone so you could pour your sand out? Great design by the way!

jim

On 6/12/2012 7:18 PM, Allen Powell wrote:
> I'm not sure, but I may have been the first to use the HF mixer.  Here is
> how i did it.  I have made a fw changes since then, though not much.
>
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7zJJ_DCTo&list=UUIZ67pX7CzthddsGCHWvBtw&index=4\
&feature=plcp
>
> Al
>
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Jim Rogers<jr@...>wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
>> accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
>> today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
>> build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
>> to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
>> to go.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jim
>> --
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 7216 (20120612) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>

--


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Allen:
      That is simple and elegant....  There are a number of other
approaches for the packer wheels that might work well.... off the shelf
stuff.   I have some wonderful hard plastic wheels with excellent
bearings in them designed for sugar beet harvesters that might be an
option.
      Again, thanks for the simple elegant design!


                      Howard


On 06/12/2012 08:18 PM, Allen Powell wrote:
> I'm not sure, but I may have been the first to use the HF mixer.  Here is
> how i did it.  I have made a fw changes since then, though not much.
>
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7zJJ_DCTo&list=UUIZ67pX7CzthddsGCHWvBtw&index=4\
&feature=plcp
>
> Al
>
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Jim Rogers<jr@...>wrote:
>
>> **
>>
>>
>> My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
>> accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
>> today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
>> build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
>> to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
>> to go.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jim
>> --
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> this list does not accept attachments.
>
> Files area and list services are at:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
>
> For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> check out these two affiliated sites:
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
>       http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
>
> Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
>
> List Owner:
> owly@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

I'm sure that there are many ways to skin this cat, but this is what I had
on hand and it was fun to figure out my own solution and build it.

Thanks for your comment.

Allen

On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 9:38 AM, StoneTool <owly@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Thanks Allen:
> That is simple and elegant.... There are a number of other
> approaches for the packer wheels that might work well.... off the shelf
> stuff. I have some wonderful hard plastic wheels with excellent
> bearings in them designed for sugar beet harvesters that might be an
> option.
> Again, thanks for the simple elegant design!
>
> Howard
>
> On 06/12/2012 08:18 PM, Allen Powell wrote:
> > I'm not sure, but I may have been the first to use the HF mixer. Here is
> > how i did it. I have made a fw changes since then, though not much.
> >
> >
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7zJJ_DCTo&list=UUIZ67pX7CzthddsGCHWvBtw&index=4\
&feature=plcp
> >
> > Al
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Jim Rogers<jr@...
> >wrote:
> >
> >> **
> >>
> >>
> >> My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
> >> accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
> >> today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
> >> build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
> >> to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
> >> to go.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Jim
> >> --
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> > this list does not accept attachments.
> >
> > Files area and list services are at:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
> >
> > For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> > check out these two affiliated sites:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
> >
> > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
> >
> > List Owner:
> > owly@...
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks,

Yes I put the cone back on after I cut it down a little to make the hole
bigger. It makes it much easier and cleaner to get the sand out.  I also
put a spring loaded tension control on the wheel to adjust the down force.
I'm going to have to put up another video to show the changes.

On Wed, Jun 13, 2012 at 9:20 AM, Jim Rogers <jr@...>wrote:

> **
>
>
> Allen, what are the changes that you've made, and did you end up using
> the top cone so you could pour your sand out? Great design by the way!
>
> jim
>
> On 6/12/2012 7:18 PM, Allen Powell wrote:
> > I'm not sure, but I may have been the first to use the HF mixer. Here is
> > how i did it. I have made a fw changes since then, though not much.
> >
> >
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7zJJ_DCTo&list=UUIZ67pX7CzthddsGCHWvBtw&index=4\
&feature=plcp
> >
> > Al
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Jim Rogers<jr@...
> >wrote:
> >
> >> **
> >>
> >>
> >> My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
> >> accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
> >> today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
> >> build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
> >> to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
> >> to go.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Jim
> >> --
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > For discussion of Metal Casting and related issues
> > this list does not accept attachments.
> >
> > Files area and list services are at:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/hobbicast
> >
> > For additional files and photos and off topic discussions
> > check out these two affiliated sites:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sandcrabs
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Hobbicast1
> >
> > Please visit our sponsor: Budget Casting Supply
> > http://budgetcastingsupply.com/
> >
> > List Owner:
> > owly@...
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> > __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
> signature database 7216 (20120612) __________
> >
> > The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
> >
> > http://www.eset.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks.  Yes, it does work well.

On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 9:55 PM, Dallas Richardson
<classicpoints@...>wrote:

> **
>
>
> Alan;
> WOW WOW That is slick and it looks to be doing a fine job..
>
> Well done
>
>                                                          Dallas  IMAX 1340
>
> From: Allen Powell <apowellx@...>
> To: hobbicast@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 8:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [hobbicast] Harbor Freight mini mixer muller
>
>
> I'm not sure, but I may have been the first to use the HF mixer. Here is
> how i did it. I have made a fw changes since then, though not much.
>
>
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU7zJJ_DCTo&list=UUIZ67pX7CzthddsGCHWvBtw&index=4\
&feature=plcp
>
> Al
>
> On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 2:11 PM, Jim Rogers <jr@...
> >wrote:
>
> > **
> >
> >
> > My muller died - actually I killed it when it was wounded -
> > accidentally, but it's dead none the less. I bought a HF mini mixer
> > today to use for my starting point because I've seen a couple other guys
> > build theirs off of them, one real basic, one more complicated; I'd like
> > to see what more of you guys have done building yours to see which way
> > to go.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim
> > --
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]