... I use black gesso thinned down. 50% gesso, 25% water, 25% future. It goes on decently, doesn't fill in detail, and I haven't noticed it rubbing off. -- ...
Minwax Satin Polyurethane. Cheap & tough enough for floors. I used to use Testor's dull coat, but it can yellow, so I've switched to Golden's archival spray...
Furniture polyurethanes are tough as nails. I can't think of any initial layer that would be more protective, and Golden's spray matte contains UV protectants...
If you use it lightly and hold it at the distance specified on the can, it's extremely matte. Heavier coats can take time to flatten out, but back when I lived...
... This is idea ROCKS!! While I don't have the exact same sander as that guy, I do have a similar one. I haven't had the chance to paint for a good year, so...
Bonjour les figurinautes! After a long time I finally came around to update my miniature gallery on My website. I was far from my computer, one time in the...
Hello! Thanks for your sympatic messages ;) I have corrected the differnts bog of links of the website, now normally everything is good. ... the book 'll be...
I have been constantly going back and forth over a question for some years now, which is, what is better... fully assembling the mini then painting it or...
I've done both, and I have the same problems you do with both. Right now, I am kind of in between. I look and see what is best for the figure in question....
... I always assemble then paint. I don't like the idea of the glue interacting with the paints, or having to handle the painted parts any more than I have to....
I agree completely. Chemical reactions of any kind, b they from neglecting to clean minis, to weird things happening with mixed paint brands = bad. ... From:...
... some ... then ... Depends entirely on the figure. Infantry are generally painted after assembly. The only exception I've had is standard bearers where it's...
... I prefer to assemble then paint, but sometimes this is not the best route. I've had a few complex 55 mm minis such as the Andrea historical minis where for...
I am painting Skeleton figures and am using a black base coat with 2-3 shades of dry brushing on top. I have always been happy with the way they turn out but...
Have you tried the Dipping Method for skeletons? I would think that it would produce nice effects You could also base coat in white and then use a mix of brown...
Steve: I have a couple of ways of getting the results you seek. Method A: 1) Prime White 2) Wash with Reaper Wood Stain ink (diluted about 50%). They will...
You could try using a brown wash over white. I've seen that used to get that type of old bone effect. You could try using this "Magic Wash" formula:...
Ironically enough, the current GW Flesh Wash also works handily for a weathered brown-and-nasty bone look. ... [Non-text portions of this message have been...
Steve, First off, are you in the Chicago area? If so I think I may know who you are. If you are a Chicago guy, email me off list. Anyway, I can describe how...
My Skellies are done to deliberately be varied. 1) Basecoat White or Bone 2) Wash Flesh, chestnut, brown, earth, or black 3) drybrush White and/or bone 4)...
My tip would be to start from a brown base coat instead of a black one, the go through various brown/cream/bone cololurs up to pure white. The amount of each...
Hi. My recipe for painting skeletons is as follows: Base coat in medium brown (Vallejo Cobra Leather), paint over everything but the recesses with a mix of ...
According to Andrew Morton, on 16-3-08 09:32 the word on the street was... ... The first skeletons I painted (ages ago), I did with white followed by an...
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