Ian & David, I'm going to drop a couple of my own $.02 in here.

Ian, if you mean precision is required to do anything, you're just flatly wrong.
Watt's steam engine had a 1/8" gap between the piston and cylinder walls. It
still worked! Precision is relative to what you need. For his purposes, that was
adequate precision. His engines were not particularly efficient, but they
changed the world.

As for flaws in the manufacture of machines of concrete, they do exist, but the
method IS proven to work. Personally, I'd have a hard time waiting for the
concrete to cure properly, but that is a personal failing. When you need a
machine in a hurry, Cast Iron is NOT the way to go. Unless you don't mind having
to recut surfaces as the metal stress relieves itself over a year or so. I
suspect that the reason there are no surviving examples of the concrete machines
is not that they wore out quickly, but that they were demolished after the war
to make way for more conventional tools that were easier to relocate.

Joe V. Romig wrote quite a bit about making tools using concrete for home
workshops, and also many little hints and tips for both professional machinists
and hobbyists that were published in Pop Mechanics & Pop Sci, as well as
Machinery.

As for how long it takes to learn to work a machine tool, I took a high school
class in machine shop my senior year. I wasn't producing "precision" parts, but
I was making functional tools. It was a one-semester course. I've since bought
one of the little Chinese lathes David mentioned, and with less than 10  hours
of work on it, I've started producing reasonable work. I'm also doing many of
the modifications needed to make it less of kit, and more of a lathe.

I had my first experience with a wood lathe a couple of years ago at the local
Medieval Faire. Gentlman had a spring-pole lathe set up, and was using an axe to
point the ends of sticks to mount in the "turns" that were carved into the
stocks of the lathe. It took me less than 30 minutes playing with the thing to
start getting cylindrical work from it. Hand-held tool, no carriage or
cross-slide.

And as David has noted, survival is a very good motivator. Water pumps and
automobiles don't require micron tolerances. Nor do firearms, cartridges for
them, meat grinders, air compressors, wind mills, nor many other objects and
machines that can make life easier.

I'm not an engineer, and my degree is in secondary education, but I've been a
hobbyist metalworker for over 4 decades. I've researched and practiced old
metalworking techniques, mostly for jewelry and weapons/armor. After making the
armor, I wore it, and fought in it. Rattan swords, rather than edged steel, but
blunt-force trauma will kill you just as dead as a sharp edge. I've also been an
auto and aircraft mechanic, photographer, and electronics technician, so I'm
familar with precision equipment. It can take decades to become a master, but
basic competence can be developed within weeks or months with just a little
motivation and some instruction. I've not used my limited machining skills since
1973, but I was able to fix pumps and such with hand-tools. ANY sort of lathe or
milling machine would have simply made it easier. And I'm used to improvising
tools. You might be surprised what people who work with their hands can do given
machinery.

Now, would I go the route that Pat and the gang have taken? No, probably not. I
say that because I didn't go that route, although I've considered it, and helped
with some ideas and suggestions, as I have followed along. I've had a drill
press of one sort or another for quite a long time. I'm a rough carpenter, but
it wouldn't be all that hard to make a wooden lathe, particularly if dimensioned
lumber was available, or I had the means to make it. A decent knife and
sharpening stone would be enough to start, if necessary, but a saw or two, and a
plane would make it easier. As I mentioned, I got the little metalcutting lathe.
It was less than $400. Of course, that is more than a year's wages in some
countries.

Might I make a suggestion? If you don't think the MMLathe will work, make some
suggestions that you think will. I don't think it will be a great machine, but
I'd rather have it than a wooden lathe. Lathes have been around for thousands of
years. It's only been in the past 150 years or so that precision has had any
meaning at all.

and in the meantime, have a happy and successful New Year!

Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)



--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...> wrote:
>
> On 12/30/2011 08:20 PM, Ian Newman wrote:
> > Building a machine.
> > I would not attempt to build a machine - I believe (as I have stated
> > in a number of previous posts) that the process of construction is
> > fundamentally flawed and is not an appropriate method of addressing
> > the task of creating a machine from "first principles".
>
> Based on that premise, this discussion should not go forward, as it is
> moot.  For purposes of discussion, let us assume the premise is wrong.
>
> > I am a lecturer at a university in the UK and also at a college where
> > I teach engineering apprentices.  I have discussed the building of a
> > machine with the institutions that I work at but there are so many
> > fundamental flaws in the processes concerned that neither the college
> > or the university would consider attempting to build a machine on the
> > principles outlined in the instructions.
>
> Again, you are correct, IF the design is fundamentally flawed, you are
> right.
>
> > I stand by my original comment that it is irresponsible to promote a
> > design without evidence that the process is sound - I can't build one,
> > you can't build one, Pat can't build one and yet you suggest that
> > people in the third world should invest time money and resources into
> > creating a machine based on untested ideas.
>
> Again, my response to the first paragraph shows agreement with you.
>
> > Regarding your second point - at no time have I suggested that the
> > design is "sub-optimal" - as far as I'm concerned, if the design
> > works, it is good.  If it is optimal - that is a bonus.
>
> If a design puts the operator at risk of injury, IMHO it is
> sub-optimal.  I refrained from saying that it is so flawed as to be
> unusable, since I do not believe that to be true.  Here is where we
> disagree -- how usable is the design?  I believe it has utility, you do
> not believe it will work.  I have seen designs which work poorly, but
> well enough to get the job done.  This is an example of that design
> school.  It surely is not a Hardinge or a Monarch, it is closer to a
> Craftsman or worse, but it will work.
>
> > Regarding your paragraphs three and four - I agree entirely.
> >
> > Regarding paragraph five, you have chosen two specific examples. Both
> > of these examples are time critical and require competent machinists -
> > I'm not sure what point you are trying to make.  there are four
> > possible scenarios:
> >
> > A skilled machinist with a precision machine.
> > A skilled machinist with no accurate machine tools.
> > An inexperienced machinist with a precision machine.
> > An inexperienced machinist with no accurate machine tools.
> >
> > The initial premise is that an accurate machine tool is not available
> > - that rules out option one and three.
> >
> > Any skilled machinist can produce accurate work on any machine given
> > appropriate accessories - but we are assuming that there is no skilled
> > operatives available.
> >
> > That leaves option four - do you seriously believe that an unskilled
> > operator can build a machine and master the appropriate skills to
> > create precission parts in a short time-scale?  I do not think that
> > this is a reasonable proposition.
>
> Aha, but we are not discussing precision parts, but marginally good
> parts.  An inexperiences operator using a barely functional tool can
> often make a good enough part to keep things going until precision parts
> arrive.  If the tractor clutch chatters and works until the new flywheel
> and pressure plate arrive, but the harvest is saved, what is the real
> effect?  The real effect is that the village is able to survive.  If the
> water pump vibrates and is less efficient, it is still better than none.
>
> I think you miss the point:  The Multimachine is not and can never
> become a CNC VMC, it isn't good enough.  It is barely enough machine to
> keep you going while the parts are coming.  This is akin to the Seig
> Oriental lathes, out of the box they don't work well, but they can be
> made to do good work.  A Multimachine can do poor, jackleg work, but
> that is a better option that sitting down and dying.  The Multimachine
> will NEVER be a replacement for a good toolroom lathe, it will be a tool
> to keep you going while the parts (which are 3 months away) start their
> travels to you.
>
> A smoothbore, black powder shotgun made of pipe will NEVER be able to
> win in a combat shooting contest, but if it allows you to keep food on
> the table, there is no Donner Pass scenario to worry about.  The
> Multimachine is not a Benelli, it is a hunk of pipe on a big stick,
> clearly sub-optimal, but maybe functional enough to keep you going.
>
> Dave  8{)
>
> --
> /"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional,
> illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream
> media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to
> pick up a turd by the clean end."/
> (quoted from http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30060)
>
> NOTE TO ALL:
>
>
> When forwarding emails, please use only "Blind Carbon Copy" or "Bcc" for
> all recipients. Please "delete" or "highlight & cut" any forwarding
> history which includes my email address! It is a courtesy to me and
> others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the
> world! Erasing the history helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses
> and viruses from being propagated.
>
> THANK YOU!
>

use google translate!
It is not a home made lathe, and he sells only to Germany!
(30-40KG )

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Chris M <chrism3667@...> wrote:
>
> I don't read German, but I'm working on it.
>
> Can't swear this is a homemade lathe, but it sure looks like it:
>
>
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kleine-Drehbank-Drehmaschine-Gut-alt-Massiv-m-Forkardt-F8\
0-Dreibackenfutter-/220920133859?pt=Industriemaschinen&hash=item336fddb8e3
>
> check it out!
>

Happy new year to you too Dennis from Rodos island Greece.
Costas

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, DennisF MacIntyre <a1g2r3i@...> wrote:
>
> To all addressed above & Families                       2012/01/01  00:18 KT  
>    As I am presently located In Junju, South Korea and at 00:01 hrs have been
watching the ringing of the Seoul Gong on TV ringing in the New Year; I am
wishing most of you still living and experiencing yesterday a Happy New Year
> keep smiling
> dennis mac
>

I have two large motors (about 2+ HP) that were discarded by my gym.  They seem
to be in good shape, so I'm not sure why they were replaced.  However, they are
3-phase, 230V motors and I don't have the controller electronics.  I have the
service manual for the treadmills these motors were used on and I see the
controller converted single phase, 120VAC power to 3-phase, 230V.  The motors
are Emerson Model J63WZBFP-120 and per the nameplate: RPM 1725 (but I believe
the controller provided variable speed for the treadmill), 3Φ, 230V, 9.2A. 
Does anyone have any ideas for simply (and cheaply) checking out these motors
(with 1-phase, 120VAC power) and then potentially using them to run a grinder or
other tool?
thanks,
Ted

I have two large motors (about 2+ HP) that were discarded by my gym. They seem to be in good shape, so I'm not sure why they were replaced. However, they are 3-phase, 230V motors and I don't have the controller electronics. I have the service manual for the treadmills these motors were used on and I see the controller converted single phase, 120VAC power to 3-phase, 230V. The motors are Emerson Model J63WZBFP-120 and per the nameplate: RPM 1725 (but I believe the controller provided variable speed for the treadmill), 3Φ, 230V, 9.2A. Does anyone have any ideas for simply (and cheaply) checking out these motors (with 1-phase, 120VAC power) and then potentially using them to run a grinder or other tool?
thanks,
Ted 

Hi Group
I have looked at the drawing for the lathe,
  The concrete might be fine for ia machine.
  The big problem is getting the parts in alinement.
  The are too many ways to mess up with it.

  In a 3 axis machine there is 6 directions of motions.

  Look at each part and see how much machineing is needed for each
  part.
  Does the builder have any machine to do this?

There seems to me to be a lot of unknowns to building this lathe.
  For a unskilled builder it seem a hard job to do.

  Keith

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...> wrote:
>
> On 12/29/2011 04:21 PM, Ian Newman wrote:
> > Hi,
> >
> > I'm still concerned that this process has never been used to produce a
> > working machine.  All the methods presented are just "bright ideas"
> > that may make sense individually, but may not work in reality when
> > combined in the way described in the text.
> >
> > Before publishing and releasing this document to a wider audience I
> > think it is essential that prototype working machines are built and
> > tested.  Especially as the text implies that the processes are well
> > established and proven technology.
> >
> > Ian.
>
> Ian,
>
> What you suggest may be true, can you provide the resources to build
> one?  I cannot and, it appears, Pat can not.
>
> You are correct, there are a lot of places where the design is
> sub-optimal, e.g. the handwheel between the ways is incredibly dangerous
> to someone wearing loose fitting clothing.  This is why the bicycle
> chain is discussed, another approach is to use automotive differential
> gears to turn the nuts and run a shaft to the apron.
>
> Yet another issue is that the machine will wear out quickly, Yeomans'
> design was done to make shells during a war, and it works well.
> However, a war should last only a few years, few (if any) Yeomans design
> lathes survive, many WWII South Bend lathes are still in use today, as
> are Monarchs, etc.  Good CI (Cast Iron) lathes take years to build (from
> the raw castings to finished product.)  Yeomans' design took months.
> While the Yeomans' design lathes generally can hold a few thousandths
> with a good machinist, good CI lathes are better than 1/10 of that error.
>
> In a war good enough is often more desirable, since making perfect stuff
> takes so long your opponent wins.
>
> This is an example of a tool which allows someone to win at survival,
> when the village water pump fails and needs repair before the village
> dies of dehydration, or to repair the tractor during harvest, rather
> than waiting for parts for a month or two while the harvest rots.
>
> Dave  8{)
>
> --
> /"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional,
> illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream
> media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to
> pick up a turd by the clean end."/
> (quoted from http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30060)
>
> NOTE TO ALL:
>
>
> When forwarding emails, please use only "Blind Carbon Copy" or "Bcc" for
> all recipients. Please "delete" or "highlight & cut" any forwarding
> history which includes my email address! It is a courtesy to me and
> others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the
> world! Erasing the history helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses
> and viruses from being propagated.
>
> THANK YOU!
>

Hi all
Yesterady   some colleagues of mine told me that there are some kind of
resine-type concrete that is very strong, is not srinking at all.They cost
something like 30 euro a bag of 25 Kg and you can add inside gravels to make
concrete.
Maybe we must seriuselly consider this mterial insteed of epoxy granite that is
much highly priced.
Yes, you have right, making this 'ways alignment' could be very difficult for an
unskilled builder but if someone try to build one, a precise 'how-to' can be
writen that could be a detailed alignment instruction for futures builders.
Costas


--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, drpshops@... wrote:
>
> Hi Group
> I have looked at the drawing for the lathe,
>  The concrete might be fine for ia machine.
>  The big problem is getting the parts in alinement.
>  The are too many ways to mess up with it.
>
>  In a 3 axis machine there is 6 directions of motions.
>
>  Look at each part and see how much machineing is needed for each
>  part.
>  Does the builder have any machine to do this?
>
> There seems to me to be a lot of unknowns to building this lathe.
>  For a unskilled builder it seem a hard job to do.
>
>  Keith
>
> --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@> wrote:
> >
> > On 12/29/2011 04:21 PM, Ian Newman wrote:
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I'm still concerned that this process has never been used to produce a
> > > working machine.  All the methods presented are just "bright ideas"
> > > that may make sense individually, but may not work in reality when
> > > combined in the way described in the text.
> > >
> > > Before publishing and releasing this document to a wider audience I
> > > think it is essential that prototype working machines are built and
> > > tested.  Especially as the text implies that the processes are well
> > > established and proven technology.
> > >
> > > Ian.
> >
> > Ian,
> >
> > What you suggest may be true, can you provide the resources to build
> > one?  I cannot and, it appears, Pat can not.
> >
> > You are correct, there are a lot of places where the design is
> > sub-optimal, e.g. the handwheel between the ways is incredibly dangerous
> > to someone wearing loose fitting clothing.  This is why the bicycle
> > chain is discussed, another approach is to use automotive differential
> > gears to turn the nuts and run a shaft to the apron.
> >
> > Yet another issue is that the machine will wear out quickly, Yeomans'
> > design was done to make shells during a war, and it works well.
> > However, a war should last only a few years, few (if any) Yeomans design
> > lathes survive, many WWII South Bend lathes are still in use today, as
> > are Monarchs, etc.  Good CI (Cast Iron) lathes take years to build (from
> > the raw castings to finished product.)  Yeomans' design took months.
> > While the Yeomans' design lathes generally can hold a few thousandths
> > with a good machinist, good CI lathes are better than 1/10 of that error.
> >
> > In a war good enough is often more desirable, since making perfect stuff
> > takes so long your opponent wins.
> >
> > This is an example of a tool which allows someone to win at survival,
> > when the village water pump fails and needs repair before the village
> > dies of dehydration, or to repair the tractor during harvest, rather
> > than waiting for parts for a month or two while the harvest rots.
> >
> > Dave  8{)
> >
> > --
> > /"Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional,
> > illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream
> > media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to
> > pick up a turd by the clean end."/
> > (quoted from http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30060)
> >
> > NOTE TO ALL:
> >
> >
> > When forwarding emails, please use only "Blind Carbon Copy" or "Bcc" for
> > all recipients. Please "delete" or "highlight & cut" any forwarding
> > history which includes my email address! It is a courtesy to me and
> > others who may not wish to have their email addresses sent all over the
> > world! Erasing the history helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses
> > and viruses from being propagated.
> >
> > THANK YOU!
> >
>

I have used and made a few rotary converters in the past using single phase
220V. The US Farm Bureau (or other agency) used to publish a pamphlet on making
them.
Some general notes:
You can start the converter with a rope; just start it spinning and it will run.
The direction the converter turns determine the direction of the driven motor(s)
The converter motor does not have to be a "good" motor to do the converting.
The converter nameplate rating must be the same or higher than the driven motor.
You can run multiple motors with one converter as long as each is the same or
smaller than the converter.

That's all I can think of for now - the pages referenced in other posts seem to
have all the info you would need: a lot easier than when I was doing this in the
late 60's! Bless the internet.

---

Von: costasv <cvgoodphones317@...>
Gesendet: Jan 1, 2012 3:35:18 PM
An: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: [multimachine] Re: very cool apparently homemade German lathe

 

use google translate!
It is not a home made lathe, and he sells only to Germany!
(30-40KG )

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Chris M <chrism3667@...> wrote:
>
> I don't read German, but I'm working on it.
>
> Can't swear this is a homemade lathe, but it sure looks like it:
>
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/Kleine-Drehbank-Drehmaschine-Gut-alt-Massiv-m-Forkardt-F80-Dreibackenfutter-/220920133859?pt=Industriemaschinen&hash=item336fddb8e3
>
> check it out!
>
 

Hi
Thi is an other round ways old lathe:
   http://tiny.cc/6q0ts
Seems that it was common practice construction style in light-way lathes.And
these ways are not too large!
Costas

Unsupported round ways are a terrible idea (I think). Supported ways are a different thing altogether because you get a lathe bed that can be turned true on a lathe (or ground round) and can still be straight and rigid. Alignment problems are not as serious as they are made out to be also!

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the multimachine
group.

   File        : /MM cost computations/MM cost.xls
   Uploaded by : sirdave144 <dlevine@...>
   Description : A template for figuring out the MM costs and parts requirements

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/multimachine/files/MM%20cost%20computations/MM%20c\
ost.xls

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/members/web/index.html
Regards,

sirdave144 <dlevine@...>

How much does it cost in materials to make this?

*** New calendar for 2012
calendar for 2012 http://gunsmithing.web.officelive.com/DownLoads.aspx Dave

Hi, folks! I mostly lurk here because I lack expertise in the machining field.
I'm posting now to mention a potential issue with display of the pdf
illustrations on some devices. I loaded the manual to my Nook. I found that
while many of the illustrations appeared, many did not. Let me immediately point
out that this is not any deficiency on the part of the manual: further research
indicated that this is a known issue with the Nook (and, apparently, some other
devices) and (to a lesser extent) the pdf container format in general. I have
subsequently found that in general, e-books with pdf illustrations will only
display some of those illustrations on the Nook (the illustrations still exist;
just are not visible the way the page is rendered.) My research also turned up
claims that a process called "side-loading" using the Calibre program (an -epub
document converter) can overcome this problem this process _may_ be specific to
the Nook.) I have Calibre installed, but have to this point used it very little,
and have not tried this solution. I can personally read the manual just fine - I
have many alternatives to my Nook. I bring this up because I don't know how many
devices suffer from this issue, or the probability that someone in the target
audience will try to read it using such a device. The $100 OLPC (One Laptop Per
Child) project tablet that is set to be announced at CES comes to mind. It would
seem to be prudent to make some effort to identify the scope of this issue, and
(if merited by the scope) see if there is a way around it that can be applied
with reasonable effort. I will continue to research and report what I find, in
the meantime, getting other brains cogitating this could not hurt...

-A A Adams

Hi
I had hoped that the very restricted Makezine project format would produce a
good pdf. I thought that I had seen a mention of pdf file output but I can't
find it now but maybe someone can because it could eventually be very important.

Neither Make or Dozuki (software provider) will answer email. Why I go nuts!- I
had 3200 hits a week ago and many hundred since then but they now record only
3045.

Pat

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "aaadams@..." <aaadams@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, folks! I mostly lurk here because I lack expertise in the machining field.
I'm posting now to mention a potential issue with display of the pdf
illustrations on some devices. I loaded the manual to my Nook. I found that
while many of the illustrations appeared, many did not. Let me immediately point
out that this is not any deficiency on the part of the manual: further research
indicated that this is a known issue with the Nook (and, apparently, some other
devices) and (to a lesser extent) the pdf container format in general. I have
subsequently found that in general, e-books with pdf illustrations will only
display some of those illustrations on the Nook (the illustrations still exist;
just are not visible the way the page is rendered.) My research also turned up
claims that a process called "side-loading" using the Calibre program (an -epub
document converter) can overcome this problem this process _may_ be specific to
the Nook.) I have Calibre installed, but have to this point used it very little,
and have not tried this solution. I can personally read the manual just fine - I
have many alternatives to my Nook. I bring this up because I don't know how many
devices suffer from this issue, or the probability that someone in the target
audience will try to read it using such a device. The $100 OLPC (One Laptop Per
Child) project tablet that is set to be announced at CES comes to mind. It would
seem to be prudent to make some effort to identify the scope of this issue, and
(if merited by the scope) see if there is a way around it that can be applied
with reasonable effort. I will continue to research and report what I find, in
the meantime, getting other brains cogitating this could not hurt...
>
> -A A Adams
>

An other problem rises too if we are speaking about round ways supports.
It is sure that tese supports canot be angle iron, but some kind of machining
must be made.
And then ,we must decide how to fix these round ways to the supparts.Ofcourse
I'm rejecting the idea of varius CNC round ways supported bearings,since these
supports are made from Aluminium and so they are not stiff.
Costas

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Chris M <chrism3667@...> wrote:
>
>  I'm not against them Pat. On larger lathes, or even on say this beat up Prazi
SD-300 I have (haven't even used it yet), I would guess some supports would be
needed for the heavier cuts. I don't know the physics of using 2 skinnier bars
vs. 1 beefier one, but it  seems to me, and I could be wrong, one beefier bar
makes more sense. But then you have to machine the flat, which could make the
design impractical for some shops. I repeat I do like the simplicity of the
Prazi SD-300. I'm always shang hied by some situation or task, so I never got
around to cleaning and fixing it up, and putting it through it's courses. In
design it's a cast aluminum hollow rectangular base (later models had a welded
steel base), the bar, plate steel support at the tailstock end, and blocks of
aluminum for the head and tail and carriage. It's beautifully simple, how could
I not love it! And come to think of it is there any reason that a piece of steel
couldn't be filed down
>  to produce the flat? I mean we are repeating some of the work of the early
pioneers, no??!!d
>
>  If it's worth anyone's attention, I sent a letter to the Amish Cattail
foundry people last week. I'm interested in hearing how much it would cost to
produce the castings (my patters, haven't made them yet) for the bed, head, and
tail for a ~24" clockmaker's lathe (length, not swing). My guess - more then
I'll want to spend (I'm cheap). 200$ is doable I guess, and probably well worth
it. I'm also looking into construction my won cupola furnace, w/lots and lots of
safety procedures and mechanisms built in (mostly procedures). I'm using the
bare bones description in a Lindsay book I've had for year, "Cupola Practice and
Mixing Cast Iron". It's not spelled out for you, but if you patiently study the
text, really everything you need to know is there. I'll keep you all posted.
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>  From: Pat Delany <rigmatch@...>
> To: "multimachine@yahoogroups.com" <multimachine@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 3:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [multimachine] round ways lathe
>
>
>  
> I suggest you read about the original Yeomans design. The projectiles had a
finished weight of over 3200 pounds and his round ways were only supported in
the middle. Great accuracy was necessary because the shells were fired from far
away and the trenches were fairly close together.
> Deep cuts must have been possible because slow production would not have
produced the millions of shells that were fired in some battles.
> The original Yeomans patent showed no center support but I assume one was soon
found necessary because his production machines had them.
>
> Pat
>

Regards,
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 55 year old fat man.

 

An other problem rises too if we are speaking about round ways supports.
It is sure that tese supports canot be angle iron, but some kind of machining must be made.
And then ,we must decide how to fix these round ways to the supparts.Ofcourse I'm rejecting the idea of varius CNC round ways supported bearings,since these supports are made from Aluminium and so they are not stiff.
Costas

Good morning, Keith,

I did not. But, I do not think there would be a pure horizontal force
imparted by a rotating work piece. There would be an angular force
though. Pat mentions in the "How to..." that one of the first jobs for
the new lathe is to radius the edge of a new set of supports to provide
some lateral support for heavy cuts.

The larger the lathe (the larger the work), the more of a factor angled
forces become. The Yeomans lathe has half-round supports. If necessary,
pipe used for the carriage shoes can also be used as a support under the
ways. That of course would entail further changes during the build to
accommodate.

Regards,

Mr. Shannon DeWolfe
--I've taken to using Mr. because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 55
year old fat man.


On 1/9/2012 8:43 AM, keith gutshall wrote:
> HI Shannon
> The supports under the ways will work for the vertical forces in the
> machine.
>  I think he is asking about the horizontal forces on thr ways?
>  DId you think about them in your design?
>  Keith