When I was building my MM I faced the problem of how to accurately
drill a 1/2 x 12" 5 foot long piece of bar stock that bolts to the big
block head surface. Other problems aggravated the situation. I could
barely pick up the plate, lighting was bad and my glasses neeeded
changing but most importantly, I am not a precision worker by any
stretch of imagination. This is what I did. I put the block on it's
back with the head surface up and put transfer screws in the top and
bottom head bolt holes on one side and used these 2 screws to mark an
aluminum bar, then  drilled through the bar and into the plate with a
1/16" bit. I inserted another transfer screw in another head bolt
hole, turned the plate over and  slid it until the original holes and
transfer screws "clicked in" and then tapped on the plate to mark the
third bolt hole. I drilled this spot with the small drill and kept
repeating the process until all the holes were marked with 1/16"
holes. I enlarged the holes to 7/16 (no clearance!), screwed 10 short
7/16 studs in the block. I slid the plate over the studs and it just
dropped into place! WOW! 10 blind holes in perfect alignment!

A used head gasket and transfer punches would also work if you were
very careful.

Transfer screws also help in drilling the the rear spindle bearing
flange so that it mates with the main bearing bolt holes. 3 bearing
spindles are a little unusual and the alignment of this bearing is
critical.

Pat

Joe (I don't remember which one!) long ago came up with the idea of
using a short piece of the crank, piston, rod and main bearing  to
build a removable slotter into the # 2 cylinder bore. It could be
driven by hand with a knob on the flywheel. The piston could have a
clapper and nose added so that it could cut internal key slots in all
those ZA-27 parts that I am so hot for. Maybe the piston could be
coated with epoxy or something to bring it up to bore size.
The 2 top main bearings should be enough.

Would someone like to draw this out?

Pat

http://www.staffordmfg.com/pages/axial.htm

It can be used on hor. mill arbors.
Chuck adapters
Bearing adjusters
Thrust bearings
Fly cutters
Boring heads

incredibly useful

PAT

http://www.staffordmfg.com/pages/axial.htm

It can be used on hor. mill arbors.
Chuck adapters
Bearing adjusters
Thrust bearings
Fly cutters
Boring heads

incredibly useful

PAT

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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When I was building my MM I faced the problem of how to accurately
drill a 1/2 x 12" 5 foot long piece of bar stock that bolts to the big
block head surface. Other problems aggravated the situation. I could
barely pick up the plate, lighting was bad and my glasses neeeded
changing but most importantly, I am not a precision worker by any
stretch of imagination. This is what I did. I put the block on it's
back with the head surface up and put transfer screws in the top and
bottom head bolt holes on one side and used these 2 screws to mark an
aluminum bar, then drilled through the bar and into the plate with a
1/16" bit. I inserted another transfer screw in another head bolt
hole, turned the plate over and slid it until the original holes and
transfer screws "clicked in" and then tapped on the plate to mark the
third bolt hole. I drilled this spot with the small drill and kept
repeating the process until all the holes were marked with 1/16"
holes. I enlarged the holes to 7/16 (no clearance!), screwed 10 short
7/16 studs in the block. I slid the plate over the studs and it just
dropped into place! WOW! 10 blind holes in perfect alignment!

A used head gasket and transfer punches would also work if you were
very careful.

Transfer screws also help in drilling the the rear spindle bearing
flange so that it mates with the main bearing bolt holes. 3 bearing
spindles are a little unusual and the alignment of this bearing is
critical.

Pat

Hi Larry

I was in the middle of converting the movie script into a book in pdf
format when I fell down a flight of stairs and damaged my knee so much
that it had to be totally replaced. a hospital infection and a bad
drug reaction slowed things down even more. Actually there is enough
stuff in "files" however to get you going. Look at "Book 6 11 06" and
the "6" Turret  lathe"  files very carefully. The "book" file is a
real mess but if you combine it with the pictures you will find plenty
to keep you busy.

Pat

-- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Larry Alexander <losiros1@...> wrote:
>
> Dear Pat;
>
>   Where can I go on your site for detalis on building a MM? I
thought that ou would have plans and I am always looking for such. I
like what you did because machaning worl where where I live is
veryexpensive. I can get my hands on engine blocks.
>
>   Larry Alexander
>
> Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:
>           When I was building my MM I faced the problem of how to
accurately
> drill a 1/2 x 12" 5 foot long piece of bar stock that bolts to the big
> block head surface. Other problems aggravated the situation. I could
> barely pick up the plate, lighting was bad and my glasses neeeded
> changing but most importantly, I am not a precision worker by any
> stretch of imagination. This is what I did. I put the block on it's
> back with the head surface up and put transfer screws in the top and
> bottom head bolt holes on one side and used these 2 screws to mark an
> aluminum bar, then drilled through the bar and into the plate with a
> 1/16" bit. I inserted another transfer screw in another head bolt
> hole, turned the plate over and slid it until the original holes and
> transfer screws "clicked in" and then tapped on the plate to mark the
> third bolt hole. I drilled this spot with the small drill and kept
> repeating the process until all the holes were marked with 1/16"
> holes. I enlarged the holes to 7/16 (no clearance!), screwed 10 short
> 7/16 studs in the block. I slid the plate over the studs and it just
> dropped into place! WOW! 10 blind holes in perfect alignment!
>
> A used head gasket and transfer punches would also work if you were
> very careful.
>
> Transfer screws also help in drilling the the rear spindle bearing
> flange so that it mates with the main bearing bolt holes. 3 bearing
> spindles are a little unusual and the alignment of this bearing is
> critical.
>
> Pat
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sneak preview the  all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different.
Just radically better.
>

I can actually see the end of the first build of the text (only 4
years) of the "how to build book" but I would like to avoid disasters
when I add additional .pdf pages and also 150 or so pictures and drawings.

Would someone please import a .pdf page that has a good photo into
Word or Openoffice and then export the results to another .pdf file. I
need to see how much if any quailty is lost. This stuff is a little
foreign to me. Suggestions are very welcome.

Pat

Hi Larry

I was in the middle of converting the movie script into a book in pdf
format when I fell down a flight of stairs and damaged my knee so much
that it had to be totally replaced. a hospital infection and a bad
drug reaction slowed things down even more. Actually there is enough
stuff in "files" however to get you going. Look at "Book 6 11 06" and
the "6" Turret lathe" files very carefully. The "book" file is a
real mess but if you combine it with the pictures you will find plenty
to keep you busy.

Pat

-- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Larry Alexander <losiros1@...> wrote:
>
> Dear Pat;
>
> Where can I go on your site for detalis on building a MM? I
thought that ou would have plans and I am always looking for such. I
like what you did because machaning worl where where I live is
veryexpensive. I can get my hands on engine blocks.
>
> Larry Alexander
>
> Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:
> When I was building my MM I faced the problem of how to
accurately
> drill a 1/2 x 12" 5 foot long piece of bar stock that bolts to the big
> block head surface. Other problems aggravated the situation. I could
> barely pick up the plate, lighting was bad and my glasses neeeded
> changing but most importantly, I am not a precision worker by any
> stretch of imagination. This is what I did. I put the block on it's
> back with the head surface up and put transfer screws in the top and
> bottom head bolt holes on one side and used these 2 screws to mark an
> aluminum bar, then drilled through the bar and into the plate with a
> 1/16" bit. I inserted another transfer screw in another head bolt
> hole, turned the plate over and slid it until the original holes and
> transfer screws "clicked in" and then tapped on the plate to mark the
> third bolt hole. I drilled this spot with the small drill and kept
> repeating the process until all the holes were marked with 1/16"
> holes. I enlarged the holes to 7/16 (no clearance!), screwed 10 short
> 7/16 studs in the block. I slid the plate over the studs and it just
> dropped into place! WOW! 10 blind holes in perfect alignment!
>
> A used head gasket and transfer punches would also work if you were
> very careful.
>
> Transfer screws also help in drilling the the rear spindle bearing
> flange so that it mates with the main bearing bolt holes. 3 bearing
> spindles are a little unusual and the alignment of this bearing is
> critical.
>
> Pat
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sneak preview the all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different.
Just radically better.
>

Is this too simple?... an endmill cuts on the side and a drill bit is
not meant to. If we could make a jig that would let us grind the side
of a drill bit to an endmill cutting angle then everyone, anywhere
would have a lifetime supply of milling cutters.

Pat

>Is this too simple?... an endmill cuts on the side and a drill bit is
>not meant to. If we could make a jig that would let us grind the side
>of a drill bit to an endmill cutting angle then everyone, anywhere
>would have a lifetime supply of milling cutters.

Enco sells a 1" screw machine length drill for $20.92
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=302-1064&PMPXNO=946822
and a 1" end mill for $13.70
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=2603788&PMAKA=321-5105.
The end mill is CHEAPER than the drill bit.

A 1/8" drill bit is $0.33 and a 1/8" mill is $3.54  However the shank
on the mill is quite a bit "fatter".

Yes, it might work, but the question now is one of price.  Can you
justify a jig when the bits will be more expensive?  How about the
issues with breakage and lack of rigidity of the small shank?

I think it is a nice idea, but it isn't practical.

Dave  8{)


--
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--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Pat Delany" <rigmatch@...> wrote:
>
> Is this too simple?... an endmill cuts on the side and a drill bit is
> not meant to. If we could make a jig that would let us grind the side
> of a drill bit to an endmill cutting angle then everyone, anywhere
> would have a lifetime supply of milling cutters.
>
> Pat
>
I should have also said that the drill bit that has been converted to
an end mill would be quite fragile compared to the real thing.

David Wimberley

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Pat Delany" <rigmatch@...> wrote:
>
> Is this too simple?... an endmill cuts on the side and a drill bit is
> not meant to. If we could make a jig that would let us grind the side
> of a drill bit to an endmill cutting angle then everyone, anywhere
> would have a lifetime supply of milling cutters.
>
> Pat

I took a look at the cross-sections of both in Machinery's Handbook.
The end mill usually has positive radial rake and a fairly generous
core  (web in drill bit parlance).  The drill bit has a negative
radial rake and smaller web.  To make an end mill from a drill you
would have to create rake as well as relief, no small task.

A drill bit might be a good place to start if an endmill is not available.

David Wimberley
>

Thanks Chris

The Ghostscript file converter would be perfect for converting .pdf to
html but it really frustrates me. I install it but can't find it
afterwards. It really makes me feel stupid!. If I could make it work,
I could import the pdf., convert it to html, import this into
OpenOffice and when the 100 page book is finished, convert the whole
thing into .pdf for free distribution. This all assumes that the
photos don't loose resolution..Big Assumption!

The project has become even more important to me in the last few
weeks. Since I have been slowly recovering from my surgery I have
watched a lot of foreign DVDs. The settings were in places like
Mongolia and the former Soviet republic of Georgia. The need for
projects like the MM seems almost universal. This was where the
drillbit/endmill question came from.

Pat


-- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "Chris Bailey" <cbailey73160@...>
wrote:
>
> Pat,
>
> You might check out something called CutePDF writer.  It also uses
part of
> the public domain Ghostscript application and is FREE!  I've used it
> extensively and it works great!
>
>
>
> http://www.cutepdf.com/
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Chris Bailey
>
>
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:multimachine@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Pat Delany
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 11:26 AM
> To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [multimachine] .pdf question
>
>
>
> I can actually see the end of the first build of the text (only 4
> years) of the "how to build book" but I would like to avoid disasters
> when I add additional .pdf pages and also 150 or so pictures and
drawings.
>
> Would someone please import a .pdf page that has a good photo into
> Word or Openoffice and then export the results to another .pdf file. I
> need to see how much if any quailty is lost. This stuff is a little
> foreign to me. Suggestions are very welcome.
>
> Pat
>

Thanks a lot Larry

I hope that the book will make it easier to build in any one of 4 or 5
versions.

Pat
--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Larry Alexander <losiros1@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Pat;
>   I am so sorry to hear that you are hurt. You are alive and that is
what is most important. I lost my mother last year due to
complications after a knee replacement operation so you are okay. I
hope that you get better and can carry on as usual. You do good things
for people who you don't even know personally, and that is something
you have to look very hard to find in this world. I would look for the
information that you specified and will keep you up dated about my
progress. Thank you again.
>
>   Sincerely;
>   Larry
>
> Pat Delany <rigmatch@...> wrote:
>           Hi Larry
>
> I was in the middle of converting the movie script into a book in pdf
> format when I fell down a flight of stairs and damaged my knee so much
> that it had to be totally replaced. a hospital infection and a bad
> drug reaction slowed things down even more. Actually there is enough
> stuff in "files" however to get you going. Look at "Book 6 11 06" and
> the "6" Turret lathe" files very carefully. The "book" file is a
> real mess but if you combine it with the pictures you will find plenty
> to keep you busy.
>
> Pat
>
> -- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, Larry Alexander <losiros1@> wrote:
> >
> > Dear Pat;
> >
> > Where can I go on your site for detalis on building a MM? I
> thought that ou would have plans and I am always looking for such. I
> like what you did because machaning worl where where I live is
> veryexpensive. I can get my hands on engine blocks.
> >
> > Larry Alexander
> >
> > Pat Delany <rigmatch@> wrote:
> > When I was building my MM I faced the problem of how to
> accurately
> > drill a 1/2 x 12" 5 foot long piece of bar stock that bolts to the big
> > block head surface. Other problems aggravated the situation. I could
> > barely pick up the plate, lighting was bad and my glasses neeeded
> > changing but most importantly, I am not a precision worker by any
> > stretch of imagination. This is what I did. I put the block on it's
> > back with the head surface up and put transfer screws in the top and
> > bottom head bolt holes on one side and used these 2 screws to mark an
> > aluminum bar, then drilled through the bar and into the plate with a
> > 1/16" bit. I inserted another transfer screw in another head bolt
> > hole, turned the plate over and slid it until the original holes and
> > transfer screws "clicked in" and then tapped on the plate to mark the
> > third bolt hole. I drilled this spot with the small drill and kept
> > repeating the process until all the holes were marked with 1/16"
> > holes. I enlarged the holes to 7/16 (no clearance!), screwed 10 short
> > 7/16 studs in the block. I slid the plate over the studs and it just
> > dropped into place! WOW! 10 blind holes in perfect alignment!
> >
> > A used head gasket and transfer punches would also work if you were
> > very careful.
> >
> > Transfer screws also help in drilling the the rear spindle bearing
> > flange so that it mates with the main bearing bolt holes. 3 bearing
> > spindles are a little unusual and the alignment of this bearing is
> > critical.
> >
> > Pat
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Sneak preview the all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different.
> Just radically better.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs.Try it free.
>

You might want to compile it all in a document editor like OpenOffice and then once it’s done, do one big conversion into a PDF file. 

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It's getting a pdf into Openoffice that is driving me nuts!
Pat
--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...>
wrote:
>
>
> >You might want to compile it all in a document editor like
> >OpenOffice and then once it's done, do one big conversion into a
PDF file.
>
> OOO 2.0 will directly write PDF files.
>
> Dave  8{)
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/389 - Release Date:
7/14/2006
>

Pat:

1 Write the book.
2. Save it in .doc or html.
3. Post it somewhere I can download it, or burn it to a CD and send to
me.
4. I'll convert it to .pdf and repost it to the same place, or burn it to
a CD and send to ya.

I'd say just email it to me, but I'm on a slow trunk (19.6 connection),
do my work at home and go to the public library to upload big files.

Johnny

It's getting a pdf into Openoffice that is driving me nuts!
Pat
--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...>
wrote:
>
>
> >You might want to compile it all in a document editor like
> >OpenOffice and then once it's done, do one big conversion into a
PDF file.
>
> OOO 2.0 will directly write PDF files.
>
> Dave 8{)
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/389 - Release Date:
7/14/2006
>

Thanks Johnny

What I am really worried about is that if I base the book on
photographs and then find that the photos lose all detail when they
are finally converted to pdf. Avoiding this was the reason I
originally chose a slide show format instead of a book.

About adding pdf files...........
I had planned to insert pdf files into the relevent sections of the
book. Maybe it would be safer to append the files at the end of the
book in the form of an appendix. (don't know how to do this yet)

Pat
  --- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "JC (2jays) Johnson"
<two-jays@...> wrote:
>
>
> Pat:
>
> 1 Write the book.
> 2. Save it in .doc or html.
> 3. Post it somewhere I can download it, or burn it to a CD and send to
> me.
> 4. I'll convert it to .pdf and repost it to the same place, or burn
it to
> a CD and send to ya.
>
> I'd say just email it to me, but I'm on a slow trunk (19.6 connection),
> do my work at home and go to the public library to upload big files.
>
> Johnny
>

It's getting a pdf into Openoffice that is driving me nuts!
Pat
--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...>
wrote:
>
>
> >You might want to compile it all in a document editor like
> >OpenOffice and then once it's done, do one big conversion into a
PDF file.
>
> OOO 2.0 will directly write PDF files.
>
> Dave 8{)
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.1/389 - Release Date:
7/14/2006
>

Hi Rexarino

Many thanks

Pat

--- Rexarino <rexarino@...> wrote:

> I've no idea if this will help, but if you have
> Gmail, you can send the pdf
> to your Gmail account, then "Open as html".  The
> pictures don't come through
> the html conversion, though.
>
> Also, if the pdf is text, and not a picture of text,
> you can select the
> text, copy it, and paste it into open office. The
> formatting will be a
> little off, but at least you'll get all the words.
> Often a "search and
> replace" can take care of the formatting issues.
>
> Otherwise, one of the conversion programs might be
> the best choice - but
> I've not used them.
>
> rexarino
>
>
> 1d. Re: .pdf question
> >     Posted by: "Pat Delany" rigmatch@...
> rigmatch
> >     Date: Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:01 pm (PDT)
> >
> > It's getting a pdf into Openoffice that is driving
> me nuts!
> > Pat
> >
>
>
>
> --
> There is only one basic human right, the right to do
> as you damn well
> please. And with it comes the only basic human duty,
> the duty to take the
> consequences.   P.J. O'Rourke
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

The first version of the "How to build" book will hopefully be out
this week. I bought a good laser printer and found that the .jpg to
Openoffice to .pdf conversion works beautifully when printing at 1200
dots per inch. A clear photo looks almost real!

Get ready with suggestions!

Pat

In files there are 2 files, mm04a.pdf and mm05a.pdf that i need to
import into the OpenOffice, could someone convert them into jpg for me?

Pat

>In files there are 2 files, mm04a.pdf and mm05a.pdf that i need to
>import into the OpenOffice, could someone convert them into jpg for me?

Get a copy of Irfanview and do a "batch conversion".  Irfanview is freeware!

Dave  8{)


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David

I got the program but I can't find any mention of .pdf files. What am
I doing wrong?

Pat

--- In multimachine@yahoogroups.com, "David G. LeVine" <dlevine@...>
wrote:
>
>
> >In files there are 2 files, mm04a.pdf and mm05a.pdf that i need to
> >import into the OpenOffice, could someone convert them into jpg for me?
>
> Get a copy of Irfanview and do a "batch conversion".  Irfanview is
freeware!
>
> Dave  8{)
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.4/396 - Release Date:
7/24/2006
>

>I got the program but I can't find any mention of .pdf files. What am
>I doing wrong?

My bad.  I misread your message.  PDF files are not easy to
convert.  Snagit (trial version) can capture them from Acrobat
Reader, but I am not aware of anything that will convert them.

Sorry.

Dave  8{)


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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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-----Original Message-----
From: multimachine@yahoogroups.com [mailto:multimachine@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of David G. LeVine
Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2006 8:23 PM
To: multimachine@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [multimachine] Re: pdf/jpg help needed

>I got the program but I can't find any mention of .pdf files. What am
>I doing wrong?

My bad. I misread your message. PDF files are not easy to
convert. Snagit (trial version) can capture them from Acrobat
Reader, but I am not aware of anything that will convert them.

Sorry.

Dave 8{)

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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.4/396 - Release Date: 7/24/2006