Ted,
As John pointed out, a RRampmeter will give you accurate readings. That being
said, is this loco combination tripping all 4 sections of your PM42 or just one?
If all four, you could try resetting the Option Switches on the PM42. Default is
3 amps which should be plenty for the combination you are running. For 3 amps,
Option switches 1, 2, and 9 should be set to T.
If the PM42 is tripping in only one section, have you done any recent track work
or ballasting? Damp scenery adhesive can be a conductor and can take longer than
one thinks to actually dry all the way through. Another cause could be that the
PM42 relay is going bad. Unfortunately without an accurate current measurement,
that will be tough to pin down.
Just as a reference, I was checking current draw and voltage drop on a PM42
section on Sunday. We had 5 Kato F units all equipped with MRC sound decoders
plus three Kato AC4400's with Digitrax decoders in one district. Total current
draw was .92 amps measured with a RRampmeter.

Martin Myers

--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "tedhumber" <ted.humber@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm running trains on a Digitrax Super Chief DCS100 with a PM42 for short
circuit protection and have been having problems with an Intermountain FT-A plus
FT-B unit.  It seems to run fine by itself but when I start running a Kato PA-1
plus PB-1 unit as well, the PM42 cuts the current and both stall.  The PM42 then
resets and the locos proceed and the PM42 cuts out again ... and so on.  If I
reduce the speed of either loco, both can handle running at the lower speed
without cut outs.  Exchange the PAs for a Big Boy and the problem's the same.  I
can't replicate the problem at will, though, but I thought it may be gradient
related.
>
> I thought that perhaps I was exceeding the amperage of the DCS100 so I
conducted some tests.  I've tested the amperage being drawn both on a digital
meter and an analogue dial.  Both the FTs are pulling nearly 0.2amps and the PAs
or the Big Boy about 0.03amps.  This can't be right, can it?  May be I need to
get some new testing equipment or learn how to use what I've got properly.
>
> What does happen when you exceed the stated amperage of a control unit?  Has
anyone had problems such as I've described?  What's the typical amperage these
locos pull?
>
> Thanks in advance, Ted
>

Ted, you need to invest in a RRampmeter to properly measure current and voltage
on a DCC system.  Those meters that you used will yield totally incorrect
results on the DCC waveform.

http://www.tonystrains.com/products/pop-meters.htm

     John H.



On Jan 6, 2010, at 10:02 AM, tedhumber wrote:

> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm running trains on a Digitrax Super Chief DCS100 with a PM42 for short
circuit protection and have been having problems with an Intermountain FT-A plus
FT-B unit. It seems to run fine by itself but when I start running a Kato PA-1
plus PB-1 unit as well, the PM42 cuts the current and both stall. The PM42 then
resets and the locos proceed and the PM42 cuts out again ... and so on. If I
reduce the speed of either loco, both can handle running at the lower speed
without cut outs. Exchange the PAs for a Big Boy and the problem's the same. I
can't replicate the problem at will, though, but I thought it may be gradient
related.
>
> I thought that perhaps I was exceeding the amperage of the DCS100 so I
conducted some tests. I've tested the amperage being drawn both on a digital
meter and an analogue dial. Both the FTs are pulling nearly 0.2amps and the PAs
or the Big Boy about 0.03amps. This can't be right, can it? May be I need to get
some new testing equipment or learn how to use what I've got properly.
>
> What does happen when you exceed the stated amperage of a control unit? Has
anyone had problems such as I've described? What's the typical amperage these
locos pull?
>
> Thanks in advance, Ted
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Folks,

I'm running trains on a Digitrax Super Chief DCS100 with a PM42 for short
circuit protection and have been having problems with an Intermountain FT-A plus
FT-B unit.  It seems to run fine by itself but when I start running a Kato PA-1
plus PB-1 unit as well, the PM42 cuts the current and both stall.  The PM42 then
resets and the locos proceed and the PM42 cuts out again ... and so on.  If I
reduce the speed of either loco, both can handle running at the lower speed
without cut outs.  Exchange the PAs for a Big Boy and the problem's the same.  I
can't replicate the problem at will, though, but I thought it may be gradient
related.

I thought that perhaps I was exceeding the amperage of the DCS100 so I conducted
some tests.  I've tested the amperage being drawn both on a digital meter and an
analogue dial.  Both the FTs are pulling nearly 0.2amps and the PAs or the Big
Boy about 0.03amps.  This can't be right, can it?  May be I need to get some new
testing equipment or learn how to use what I've got properly.

What does happen when you exceed the stated amperage of a control unit?  Has
anyone had problems such as I've described?  What's the typical amperage these
locos pull?

Thanks in advance, Ted

Hi Edward:



First some of the MRC decoders in the Athearn Challengers do not have a
readback function built-in. My Challenger from the first batch does not read
back. My Challenger from the second batch and my Big Boy do read back.



Second, you need to program in direct mode, not paged mode.



Third, you cannot program a 4-digit address in the normal manner; you must
program CV17 and CV18 separately.



To get back control of your loco place it on the programming track. Using
direct mode and using a throttle rather than JMRI program 03 into CV01, then
06 into CV29. Your will probably get an error message but the programming
should take. Try to operate your loco on address 03.



Next you need to determine the correct values of CV17 and CV18 to program
for the desired 4-digit address. Google "Calculating CV17 and CV18" and you
should find several hits that will give you the info you need to calculate
the values.



Again on the programming track and using a throttle program the values into
CV17 and Cv18, and then program CV29 to 38. Like before you will probably
get error messages but the programming should take. Now test run your loco.
Hopefully it will respond to the 4-digit address.



Regards,





John Wallis





   _____

From: ndcc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ndcc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
edward_keown
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 5:10 AM
To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [ndcc] Athearn Challenger programming problems





Hi gang

I'm having beef programming this locomotive with my Digitrax PR3 or Zephyr.

I tried to program it in OPS mode and managed to loose the 03 address. Then
I tried to program it using the PR3 but neither Soundloader nor JMRI picks
it up. Now what?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi.

When trying  to program on the programing track, do you get an error or do you
just not note any difference?

Try this on the programing track:

Write 3 to CV1Write 6 to CV29

Then try with adress 3 on the main track.


I got the same loco in HO. When trying to set it for 4 digit adress, it failed,
and I got in the same situation as you.
When I then tried to disable DC operation by alter that bit in CV29, it startet
to work with 4-digit adress.
It seams like you have to set the CV17 and CV18 first, and then set CV29 for 4
digit operation.

/Lars in Sweden

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Lars

> Have you tried to program it on the programming track?
> If that not work, try to reset the decoder, the manual has info regarding
that.

Forgot to mention that I did try that at first. Didn't work and then I tried to
program on the main (OPS).

Cheers
Ed

Hi.

Have you tried to program it on the programming track?
If that not work, try to reset the decoder, the manual has info regarding that.

/Lars in Sweden

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi gang

I'm having beef programming this locomotive with my Digitrax PR3 or Zephyr.

I tried to program it in OPS mode and managed to loose the 03 address. Then I
tried to program it using the PR3 but neither Soundloader nor JMRI picks it up.
Now what?

You need to decide what is most important.  TCS now makes a decoder for
these as well. Digitrax and TCS support a lot more features than NCE, so
that may be part of the decision process.  TCS offers the best in control of
lighting effects and has the superior slow speed performance of the three.



I was using Digitrax, but now I use TCS exclusively.



David



-----Original Message-----
From: ndcc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ndcc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Scot
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 2:09 PM
To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [ndcc] Digitrax or NCE decoders for Kato f





Hello:
I'm new to DCC and looking for some suggestions on decoders for Kato f
units.
I see Digitrax has a plug and play decoder and NCE has a drop in decoder for
Kato f units. Any preference on which decoder to use?
thanks
Scot





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bob,

Try cleaning the pick-ups with alcohol, including the tips of the axles.

Walt

On Jan 5, 2010, at 5:00 PM, Robert wrote:

> Andre et all,
>
> The solution wasn't entirely successful for me. I did see an
> improvement in conductivity but suspect there's an issue with
> contact between wheel axle and contact strips as intermittent
> operation remains. I ran out of time last Sunday and won't be able
> to get back at the problem for another week, perhaps two.
>
> I did find Andre's suggestion regarding use of 1" sections of wire
> rather than 2" sections beneficial as not only does the finished
> product look clean and neat I'm betting it was easier to assemble
> the unit as well.
>
> Bob Blackwell
> Pickering, ON
>
>
>
> --- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Andre H Kritzinger" <grela@...> wrote:
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> I forgot about those.  Posted them there more than a year ago.....
>>
>> For those interested, they're in the NDCC photo section under
>> "André's LL SW9/1200 Pickup Mod".
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> The 1st mailing list about Digital Nscale
> Ndcc http://www.aurotrains.com
> Want To Buy every day. For Sale every Monday
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Community home page:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc
>
> To unsubscribe, send an email to:
>  ndcc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> For ndcc archives:
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/messages/
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/files/
>  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/photos/
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------Yahoo
> ! Groups Links
>
>
>

Andre et all,

The solution wasn't entirely successful for me. I did see an improvement in
conductivity but suspect there's an issue with contact between wheel axle and
contact strips as intermittent operation remains. I ran out of time last Sunday
and won't be able to get back at the problem for another week, perhaps two.

I did find Andre's suggestion regarding use of 1" sections of wire rather than
2" sections beneficial as not only does the finished product look clean and neat
I'm betting it was easier to assemble the unit as well.

Bob Blackwell
Pickering, ON



--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Andre H Kritzinger" <grela@...> wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> I forgot about those.  Posted them there more than a year ago.....
>
> For those interested, they're in the NDCC photo section under "André's LL
SW9/1200 Pickup Mod".

Scot-

Selecting a brand of decoders is like buying a car sometimes!  It is all in what
you 1) want to pay 2) amount of functions etc that the decoder has, and 3) If
you want a ford or a chevy!  Both companies make EXCELLENT decoders and for what
you are looking for either should work for you, it comes down to what your
comfortable with.

Bob

On Jan 5, 2010, at 4:09 PM, Scot wrote:

> Hello:
> I'm new to DCC and looking for some suggestions on decoders for Kato f units.
> I see Digitrax has a plug and play decoder and NCE has a drop in decoder for
Kato f units. Any preference on which decoder to use?
> thanks
> Scot
>
>

Robert Heroux
ACCU-LITES, Inc.
118 S. Main St. STE 12
Wauconda, IL 60084

Your DCC Center

Phone: 847.224.7914
FAX: 847.487.2089

http://www.acculites.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi Scot:

I have three ABBA consists in N Scale for Kato F units and I used the
MRC sound decoders and I have been WELL PLEASED. Other people have
criticized these but mine work well, all 12 of them. There is a trick in
the installation so if you are in N Scale, email m,e back and I'll give
some suggestions. If you are in HO, I don't have any eperience.

Joe

Scot wrote:
>
> Hello:
> I'm new to DCC and looking for some suggestions on decoders for Kato f
> units.
> I see Digitrax has a plug and play decoder and NCE has a drop in
> decoder for Kato f units. Any preference on which decoder to use?
> thanks
> Scot
>
>

Hello:
I'm new to DCC and looking for some suggestions on decoders for Kato f units.
I see Digitrax has a plug and play decoder and NCE has a drop in decoder for
Kato f units. Any preference on which decoder to use?
thanks
Scot

Yup.  That's one of the nice things about the LB-USB... no external power supply
required.  The LocoNet side of the opto-isolators is powered from LocoNet pins
1/6, while the remainder of the unit takes its power from the USB connection.

Doug

--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "karpetkrafters" <martin.myers@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Doug,
>  Didn't know that about the USB model. My serial version has neither pin
connected to anything. They just help hold the socket on the board.
>
> Martin
>
>
> --- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Stuard" <dstuard@> wrote:
> >
> > While the LocoBuffer-USB does not require the RailSync signal for operation,
it does derive power for the LocoNet interface circuitry from pins 1 and/or 6. 
For this purpose, either rear (direct connect), or front or side jacks (via the
internal steering diodes) of a UP5 will work for a LB-USB connection.
> >
> > Doug Stuard
> >
> > --- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "karpetkrafters" <martin.myers@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ted,
> > >  You may be OK. Locobuffer doesn't use rail sync. I connect mine to an
unused side jack all the time. Not sure if PR3 needs it or just some power. If
it's just some power, it should work as well.
> > >
> > > Martin Myers
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Ted Humber" <ted.humber@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the reply, Martin; you've a wealth of knowledge!
> > > >
> > > > It looks as if my LocoNet is wired incorrectly.  I do have a daisy-chain
of
> > > > DS64s coming out of the side jack of a UP5 and at the end of that
> > > > daisy-chain I have my JMRI link. Everything appears to work ok but I'll
be
> > > > tidying it up this weekend and doing it properly.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks again, Ted
> > >
> >
>

Hi Doug,
  Didn't know that about the USB model. My serial version has neither pin
connected to anything. They just help hold the socket on the board.

Martin


--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Stuard" <dstuard@...> wrote:
>
> While the LocoBuffer-USB does not require the RailSync signal for operation,
it does derive power for the LocoNet interface circuitry from pins 1 and/or 6. 
For this purpose, either rear (direct connect), or front or side jacks (via the
internal steering diodes) of a UP5 will work for a LB-USB connection.
>
> Doug Stuard
>
> --- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "karpetkrafters" <martin.myers@> wrote:
> >
> > Ted,
> >  You may be OK. Locobuffer doesn't use rail sync. I connect mine to an
unused side jack all the time. Not sure if PR3 needs it or just some power. If
it's just some power, it should work as well.
> >
> > Martin Myers
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Ted Humber" <ted.humber@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks for the reply, Martin; you've a wealth of knowledge!
> > >
> > > It looks as if my LocoNet is wired incorrectly.  I do have a daisy-chain
of
> > > DS64s coming out of the side jack of a UP5 and at the end of that
> > > daisy-chain I have my JMRI link. Everything appears to work ok but I'll be
> > > tidying it up this weekend and doing it properly.
> > >
> > > Thanks again, Ted
> >
>

While the LocoBuffer-USB does not require the RailSync signal for operation, it
does derive power for the LocoNet interface circuitry from pins 1 and/or 6.  For
this purpose, either rear (direct connect), or front or side jacks (via the
internal steering diodes) of a UP5 will work for a LB-USB connection.

Doug Stuard

--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "karpetkrafters" <martin.myers@...> wrote:
>
> Ted,
>  You may be OK. Locobuffer doesn't use rail sync. I connect mine to an unused
side jack all the time. Not sure if PR3 needs it or just some power. If it's
just some power, it should work as well.
>
> Martin Myers
>
>
>
> --- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Ted Humber" <ted.humber@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the reply, Martin; you've a wealth of knowledge!
> >
> > It looks as if my LocoNet is wired incorrectly.  I do have a daisy-chain of
> > DS64s coming out of the side jack of a UP5 and at the end of that
> > daisy-chain I have my JMRI link. Everything appears to work ok but I'll be
> > tidying it up this weekend and doing it properly.
> >
> > Thanks again, Ted
>

Well Tony,
welcome back to the great hobby of model railroading, and welcome to the group;
DCC  is the way to go!

Regards, Otto Kroutil
Happily modeling Cajon Pass in N scale, with DCC and sound, circa1950



-----Original Message-----
From: Screwjack <bentspar@...>
To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, Jan 3, 2010 1:43 pm
Subject: [ndcc] New to this group...




Hi, I have been lurking for a week or so and have learned a few things from you
good folks here in this group.

I am pretty new to model railroading. I did build a layout about 15 years ago
and lost interest due to just being busy re=raising a family. My dad was an N
scale modeler for more than 50 years so I have some knowledge but not much.

I am currently working on a layout in my basement. It will be rather large and I
will hopefully be running DCC on it. This is way I signed up for this group. I
like N scale and there seems to be a lot of DCC knowledge here.

Well hey I hope to learn a lot from you folks and maybe share some of my
experiences as I get further into this great hobby.

Tony







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andre, thank you, I was going to ask you for the pictures aswell but then saw
they were in the Photos section.

Greetz Jan

--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Andre H Kritzinger" <grela@...> wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Here's my plan in pictures, but only after the loco has lost one or more of
its impossible to reattach shell wipers. A few notes:
>
> a.  The wires are 5 cm (2") lengths of offcut gray or black decoder wire,
flexible enough to allow truck movement if you tuck it away underneath the loco
with a Z bend.
>
> b.  The wipers soldered to the middle of the wires are springs from discarded
Rapido couplers on Atlas or LL locos. Those I just slide in between the shell
and the frame after installing the truck assemblies.
>
> c.  This was my first modification.  These days I rather use 2.5 cm (1") wires
and two extra coupler springs so the two trucks can each have their own wire
set, since reassembling and installing two trucks with one set of wires between
them becomes a huge PITA PDQ.
>
> If you manage to reassemble the loco with the wires tucked away without
hampering truck movement, the loco will perform like a dream. It takes some
fiddling and YMMV, but for me the end result was great. And gray or black wires
are hardly visible where they do still stick out....
>
> (Sending to you direct too in case Yahoo rejects the pictures.)
>
>     Regards,
> André, Cape Town
> Converted from Horribly Oversized to Normal in 1978
> Website: http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/chessie01.html
> Railroad Photography Sites:
> http://grela.rrpicturearchives.net/
> http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=12115
> http://v24.railphotoarchive.org/rpc_intro.php
> http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sar/sar.html
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Robert
>   To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com
>   Sent: 02 January 2010 02:04 PM
>   Subject: [ndcc] Electrical Pick-up; Life-Like SW1200 Decoder Install
>
>
>   About two years ago I undertook the challenge of installing a Digitrax DZ143
decoder into a Life-Like SW1200 (N-Scale). The install itself wasn't a problem
however re-assembling the unit so as to obtain reliable electrical pick-up has
been. I was so frustrated by my inability to obtain reliable operation from this
unit that I put it aside and forgot about it, until yesterday that is.
>
>   Yesterday I pulled the unit out of storage and spent a good portion of the
day attempting to improve electrical pick-up. Internet searches lead me to
several links on ways replace the factory pick-ups with brass rails however no
matter what I try reliability cannot be maintained.
>
>   While attempting to resolve this issue I've taken the trucks apart and
cleaned booth pick-up and axle points. Wheel spacing has been adjusted and
re-adjusted so many times that I'm now able to set wheel gauge with a gauge
tool! I've cleaned the newly installed brass rails and pick-up points so many
times that I can see myself in the shine!
>
>   I'm at a loss; what else can I try to make this little unit run? Any points
you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
>
>   Bob Blackwell
>   Pickering, ON
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

André,

I have visited you page before and it is excellent!  I will definitely being
revisiting when I am ready to convert my B&O SD7.  Thanks for putting so much
time and effort into sharing you knowledge with other modelers!

Tony

--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Andre H Kritzinger" <grela@...> wrote:
>
> Btw, it's obviously not necessary to wire both trucks if only the pickups on
one end of the loco is done for.....
>
>     Regards,
> André, Cape Town
> Converted from Horribly Oversized to Normal in 1978
> Website: http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/chessie01.html
> Railroad Photography Sites:
> http://grela.rrpicturearchives.net/
> http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=12115
> http://v24.railphotoarchive.org/rpc_intro.php
> http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sar/sar.html
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Hi Andre,

I have the same problem. I also will like to see what you did.
Maybe you should try to post your picture for the group as others might want to
see them also.

Christisn Massey
Vancouver BC


       __________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

Hi, I have been lurking for a week or so and have learned a few things from you
good folks here in this group.

I am pretty new to model railroading.  I did build a layout about 15 years ago
and lost interest due to just being busy re=raising a family.  My dad  was an N
scale modeler for more than 50 years so I have some knowledge but not much.

I am currently working on a layout in my basement.  It will be rather large and
I will hopefully be running DCC on it.  This is way I signed up for this group. 
I like N scale and there seems to be a lot of DCC knowledge here.

Well hey I hope to learn a lot from you folks and maybe share some of my
experiences as I get further into this great hobby.

Tony

Andre H Kritzinger wrote:
> Btw, it's obviously not necessary to wire both trucks if only the pickups on
one end of the loco is done for.....
>
>

I recently put a TCS Z2 decoder in my LifeLike SW-8.  This was a really
easy installation once I decided to make my own replacement circuit
board to hold the lighting components.  I mounted an SMT LED and SMT
resistor for the head light and had room for another resistor to allow
adding a tail light.  I didn't need to do any frame modifications at
all, and just cut a shallow slot in the cab weight for the rear light.

I must have had the engine apart a dozen times making sure that this was
going to fit, and in the process snapped one of those contacts off.  I
was able to weld it back into position using a bit of Evergreen strip
and a battery-operated plastic welding tool sold for altering fishing
lures.  I got mine through Cabela's:

<http://www.cabelas.com> and type "pro weld" in the search box.

I don't know how I ever put MT couplers together without this tool.

Steve

Btw, it's obviously not necessary to wire both trucks if only the pickups on one
end of the loco is done for.....

     Regards,
André, Cape Town
Converted from Horribly Oversized to Normal in 1978
Website: http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/chessie01.html
Railroad Photography Sites:
http://grela.rrpicturearchives.net/
http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=12115
http://v24.railphotoarchive.org/rpc_intro.php
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sar/sar.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jim,

I forgot about those.  Posted them there more than a year ago.....

For those interested, they're in the NDCC photo section under "André's LL
SW9/1200 Pickup Mod".

     Regards,
André, Cape Town
Converted from Horribly Oversized to Normal in 1978
Website: http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/chessie01.html
Railroad Photography Sites:
http://grela.rrpicturearchives.net/
http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=12115
http://v24.railphotoarchive.org/rpc_intro.php
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sar/sar.html
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: James Donaldson
   To: 'Andre H Kritzinger'
   Sent: 03 January 2010 07:01 PM
   Subject: RE: [ndcc] Electrical Pick-up; Life-Like SW1200 Decoder Install


   Andre

   Forget my last email found the pictures on the photo page of NDCC. Thanks

   Jim

   Please consider the environment before printing this email.


   -----Original Message-----
   From: ndcc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ndcc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre
   H Kritzinger
   Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 7:34 AM
   To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com; rc.blackwell@...
   Subject: Re: [ndcc] Electrical Pick-up; Life-Like SW1200 Decoder Install

   Bob,

   Here's my plan in pictures, but only after the loco has lost one or more of
   its impossible to reattach shell wipers. A few notes:

   a.  The wires are 5 cm (2") lengths of offcut gray or black decoder wire,
   flexible enough to allow truck movement if you tuck it away underneath the
   loco with a Z bend.

   b.  The wipers soldered to the middle of the wires are springs from
   discarded Rapido couplers on Atlas or LL locos. Those I just slide in
   between the shell and the frame after installing the truck assemblies.

   c.  This was my first modification.  These days I rather use 2.5 cm (1")
   wires and two extra coupler springs so the two trucks can each have their
   own wire set, since reassembling and installing two trucks with one set of
   wires between them becomes a huge PITA PDQ.

   If you manage to reassemble the loco with the wires tucked away without
   hampering truck movement, the loco will perform like a dream. It takes some
   fiddling and YMMV, but for me the end result was great. And gray or black
   wires are hardly visible where they do still stick out....

   (Sending to you direct too in case Yahoo rejects the pictures.)

       Regards,
   André, Cape Town
   Converted from Horribly Oversized to Normal in 1978
   Website: http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/chessie01.html
   Railroad Photography Sites:
   http://grela.rrpicturearchives.net/
   http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=12115
   http://v24.railphotoarchive.org/rpc_intro.php
   http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sar/sar.html
     ----- Original Message -----
     From: Robert
     To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com
     Sent: 02 January 2010 02:04 PM
     Subject: [ndcc] Electrical Pick-up; Life-Like SW1200 Decoder Install


     About two years ago I undertook the challenge of installing a Digitrax
   DZ143 decoder into a Life-Like SW1200 (N-Scale). The install itself wasn't a
   problem however re-assembling the unit so as to obtain reliable electrical
   pick-up has been. I was so frustrated by my inability to obtain reliable
   operation from this unit that I put it aside and forgot about it, until
   yesterday that is.

     Yesterday I pulled the unit out of storage and spent a good portion of the
   day attempting to improve electrical pick-up. Internet searches lead me to
   several links on ways replace the factory pick-ups with brass rails however
   no matter what I try reliability cannot be maintained.

     While attempting to resolve this issue I've taken the trucks apart and
   cleaned booth pick-up and axle points. Wheel spacing has been adjusted and
   re-adjusted so many times that I'm now able to set wheel gauge with a gauge
   tool! I've cleaned the newly installed brass rails and pick-up points so
   many times that I can see myself in the shine!

     I'm at a loss; what else can I try to make this little unit run? Any
   points you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

     Bob Blackwell
     Pickering, ON

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   ------------------------------------

   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
   The 1st mailing list about Digital Nscale Ndcc http://www.aurotrains.com
   Want To Buy every day. For Sale every Monday
   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Community home page:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc

   To unsubscribe, send an email to:
     ndcc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

   For ndcc archives:
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/messages/
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/files/
     http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/photos/
   ------------------------------------------------------------------------Yaho
   o! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Andre

Are those photos included on your LL SW decoder install page? Or on the NDCC
files page. (Yahoo did strip them)

Jim

Please consider the environment before printing this email.


-----Original Message-----
From: ndcc@yahoogroups.com [mailto:ndcc@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andre
H Kritzinger
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 7:34 AM
To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com; rc.blackwell@...
Subject: Re: [ndcc] Electrical Pick-up; Life-Like SW1200 Decoder Install

Bob,

Here's my plan in pictures, but only after the loco has lost one or more of
its impossible to reattach shell wipers. A few notes:

a.  The wires are 5 cm (2") lengths of offcut gray or black decoder wire,
flexible enough to allow truck movement if you tuck it away underneath the
loco with a Z bend.

b.  The wipers soldered to the middle of the wires are springs from
discarded Rapido couplers on Atlas or LL locos. Those I just slide in
between the shell and the frame after installing the truck assemblies.

c.  This was my first modification.  These days I rather use 2.5 cm (1")
wires and two extra coupler springs so the two trucks can each have their
own wire set, since reassembling and installing two trucks with one set of
wires between them becomes a huge PITA PDQ.

If you manage to reassemble the loco with the wires tucked away without
hampering truck movement, the loco will perform like a dream. It takes some
fiddling and YMMV, but for me the end result was great. And gray or black
wires are hardly visible where they do still stick out....

(Sending to you direct too in case Yahoo rejects the pictures.)

     Regards,
André, Cape Town
Converted from Horribly Oversized to Normal in 1978
Website: http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/chessie01.html
Railroad Photography Sites:
http://grela.rrpicturearchives.net/
http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=12115
http://v24.railphotoarchive.org/rpc_intro.php
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sar/sar.html
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Robert
   To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: 02 January 2010 02:04 PM
   Subject: [ndcc] Electrical Pick-up; Life-Like SW1200 Decoder Install


   About two years ago I undertook the challenge of installing a Digitrax
DZ143 decoder into a Life-Like SW1200 (N-Scale). The install itself wasn't a
problem however re-assembling the unit so as to obtain reliable electrical
pick-up has been. I was so frustrated by my inability to obtain reliable
operation from this unit that I put it aside and forgot about it, until
yesterday that is.

   Yesterday I pulled the unit out of storage and spent a good portion of the
day attempting to improve electrical pick-up. Internet searches lead me to
several links on ways replace the factory pick-ups with brass rails however
no matter what I try reliability cannot be maintained.

   While attempting to resolve this issue I've taken the trucks apart and
cleaned booth pick-up and axle points. Wheel spacing has been adjusted and
re-adjusted so many times that I'm now able to set wheel gauge with a gauge
tool! I've cleaned the newly installed brass rails and pick-up points so
many times that I can see myself in the shine!

   I'm at a loss; what else can I try to make this little unit run? Any
points you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

   Bob Blackwell
   Pickering, ON

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------------------------
The 1st mailing list about Digital Nscale Ndcc http://www.aurotrains.com
Want To Buy every day. For Sale every Monday
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Community home page:
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc

To unsubscribe, send an email to:
   ndcc-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

For ndcc archives:
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/messages/
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/files/
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ndcc/photos/
------------------------------------------------------------------------Yaho
o! Groups Links

André

Thank you for taking the time to write up your procedure and for sending me
those pictures. The solution looks easy enough and I certain I have all parts on
hand. I don't have time tonight but I will attempt first thing Sunday afternoon
then advise the group of my success.

With appreciation

Bob Blackwell

--- In ndcc@yahoogroups.com, "Andre H Kritzinger" <grela@...> wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Here's my plan in pictures, but only after the loco has lost one or more of
its impossible to reattach shell wipers.

Bob,

Here's my plan in pictures, but only after the loco has lost one or more of its
impossible to reattach shell wipers. A few notes:

a.  The wires are 5 cm (2") lengths of offcut gray or black decoder wire,
flexible enough to allow truck movement if you tuck it away underneath the loco
with a Z bend.

b.  The wipers soldered to the middle of the wires are springs from discarded
Rapido couplers on Atlas or LL locos. Those I just slide in between the shell
and the frame after installing the truck assemblies.

c.  This was my first modification.  These days I rather use 2.5 cm (1") wires
and two extra coupler springs so the two trucks can each have their own wire
set, since reassembling and installing two trucks with one set of wires between
them becomes a huge PITA PDQ.

If you manage to reassemble the loco with the wires tucked away without
hampering truck movement, the loco will perform like a dream. It takes some
fiddling and YMMV, but for me the end result was great. And gray or black wires
are hardly visible where they do still stick out....

(Sending to you direct too in case Yahoo rejects the pictures.)

     Regards,
André, Cape Town
Converted from Horribly Oversized to Normal in 1978
Website: http://mysite.mweb.co.za/residents/grela/chessie01.html
Railroad Photography Sites:
http://grela.rrpicturearchives.net/
http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?userid=12115
http://v24.railphotoarchive.org/rpc_intro.php
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/sar/sar.html
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Robert
   To: ndcc@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: 02 January 2010 02:04 PM
   Subject: [ndcc] Electrical Pick-up; Life-Like SW1200 Decoder Install


   About two years ago I undertook the challenge of installing a Digitrax DZ143
decoder into a Life-Like SW1200 (N-Scale). The install itself wasn't a problem
however re-assembling the unit so as to obtain reliable electrical pick-up has
been. I was so frustrated by my inability to obtain reliable operation from this
unit that I put it aside and forgot about it, until yesterday that is.

   Yesterday I pulled the unit out of storage and spent a good portion of the day
attempting to improve electrical pick-up. Internet searches lead me to several
links on ways replace the factory pick-ups with brass rails however no matter
what I try reliability cannot be maintained.

   While attempting to resolve this issue I've taken the trucks apart and cleaned
booth pick-up and axle points. Wheel spacing has been adjusted and re-adjusted
so many times that I'm now able to set wheel gauge with a gauge tool! I've
cleaned the newly installed brass rails and pick-up points so many times that I
can see myself in the shine!

   I'm at a loss; what else can I try to make this little unit run? Any points
you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

   Bob Blackwell
   Pickering, ON

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

About two years ago I undertook the challenge of installing a Digitrax DZ143
decoder into a Life-Like SW1200 (N-Scale). The install itself wasn't a problem
however re-assembling the unit so as to obtain reliable electrical pick-up has
been. I was so frustrated by my inability to obtain reliable operation from this
unit that I put it aside and forgot about it, until yesterday that is.

Yesterday I pulled the unit out of storage and spent a good portion of the day
attempting to improve electrical pick-up. Internet searches lead me to several
links on ways replace the factory pick-ups with brass rails however no matter
what I try reliability cannot be maintained.

While attempting to resolve this issue I've taken the trucks apart and cleaned
booth pick-up and axle points. Wheel spacing has been adjusted and re-adjusted
so many times that I'm now able to set wheel gauge with a gauge tool! I've
cleaned the newly installed brass rails and pick-up points so many times that I
can see myself in the shine!

I'm at a loss; what else can I try to make this little unit run? Any points you
can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Bob Blackwell
Pickering, ON

Hi from Australia Charles,
 
I'm afraid I can't help you with your first problem but the is some information
available about the lighting problem on the Kato RDC.  Please visit the
following site on the Digitrax website for relevant information - basically you
just have to adjust a couple of CVs:
 
http://tsd.digitrax.com//index.php?a=1178
 
Hope this helps.
 
Cheers,
 
Bryan.
 


--- On Sat, 2/1/10, Charles Allaire <callaire@...> wrote:


From: Charles Allaire <callaire@...>
Subject: [ndcc] New Member questions
To: "ndcc" <ndcc@yahoogroups.com>
Received: Saturday, 2 January, 2010, 4:45 AM


 



Hello All,
I am new to this group. I have been modeling N scale for the last 40 Years and
have just changed over to DCC Control. I tore out my old layout and have started
over. My new layout is in the shape of a letter E in a 12x12 room.. I model
mostly SP that is freelanced. my time period is the twenty's to the late
fifties.
I am having a problem with my Shinoraha yard ladder it shorts out my system
every time I set any of the switch's to the divergent route nothing is hooked up
to the track. It does not short out on the straight route. Does anyone have a
solution?
Also I installed an Digitrax DN143K2 into a Kato RDC. The motor functions fine
but the lighting will only work in reverse, It will backlight the rev lights as
the power is increased going forward. I think that the decoder is defective, But
I hope that someone has an easy fix.

Thanks in advance for any information.
Charlie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]









      
________________________________________________________________________________\
__
See what's on at the movies in your area. Find out now:
http://au.movies.yahoo.com/session-times/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]