One of the people that bought some of my pens at a craft show wants me
to make them a duck call and a goose call does any one have any info on
how to go about getting started ( size of drill bit, parts, etc...)
Thanks
Old Man Joe

Joe,
HUT has stuff for game calls. 
http://www.hutproducts.com/departments.asp?dept=105
 
Penn State Industries also has them... 
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/game-call-kits.html
 
Also Craft Supplies USA has them
 
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Projects___Game_Calls?Args=
 
If any of these links don't work, just go to the main page and try that.
 
Regards, Happy New Year...
 
Steve in MO

--- On Thu, 1/1/09, biew19 <biew19@...> wrote:







One of the people that bought some of my pens at a craft show wants me
to make them a duck call and a goose call does any one have any info on
how to go about getting started ( size of drill bit, parts, etc...)
Thanks
Old Man Joe


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I must have misread the directions. I got an off post comment just a bit ago
saying the spring is for the rollerball. I hadn't a clue about the spring's
purpose. My thanks to all of you who have guided me yet again.

May the New Year bring each of you exactly what you've been wanting.
Love and Light,
Pat

On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 6:19 PM, Jim <still_jimnl@...> wrote:

> Ummm,  am I the only one wondering why you have a spring in the barrel
> of a fountain pen?
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Here is a start. Good luck.
http://tinyurl.com/94t5yx
http://tinyurl.com/9nxa24
http://tinyurl.com/94ky4a
Do a good turn daily!
Don

--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "biew19" <biew19@...> wrote:
> One of the people that bought some of my pens at a craft show wants
> me to make them a duck call and a goose call does any one have any
> info on how to go about getting started ( size of drill bit, parts,
> etc...)

File        : Penturners FAQ.htm
Description : Frequently asked questions

The timing on the question about the pump in the Retro fountain pen from Craft
Supplies
is fortunate.  Like Pat, I just sold a Retro to a fellow who brought it back
saying it leaked. ?
When I tried filling it with liquid ink, it seemed fine and I screwed the
assembly together
with no trouble. Before returning it, though, I unscrewed it to make sure there
was no
internal leakage.
Surprise!  A handful of ink!  Good thing I was near the kitchen sink.  It
appears the spring
grips the twist portion of the pump and when the nib assembly is removed, the
pump
action is reversed and the ink flows rapidly out of the nib.
Is the cure as simple as gripping that spring and removing it?
        Pat P., Wausau, Wis.

--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "Patricia AJ Allen" <pajallen@...> wrote:
>
> I must have misread the directions. I got an off post comment just a bit ago
> saying the spring is for the rollerball. I hadn't a clue about the spring's
> purpose. My thanks to all of you who have guided me yet again.
>
> May the New Year bring each of you exactly what you've been wanting.
> Love and Light,
> Pat
>
> On Wed, Dec 31, 2008 at 6:19 PM, Jim <still_jimnl@...> wrote:
>
> > Ummm,  am I the only one wondering why you have a spring in the barrel
> > of a fountain pen?
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Yup, there should be no spring in the FP.  Only the RB...  If you have one,
remove it

On 1/1/2009 at 5:08 PM mazo425 wrote:

>The timing on the question about the pump in the Retro fountain pen from
>Craft Supplies
>is fortunate.  Like Pat, I just sold a Retro to a fellow who brought it
>back saying it leaked. ?
>When I tried filling it with liquid ink, it seemed fine and I screwed the
>assembly together
>with no trouble. Before returning it, though, I unscrewed it to make sure
>there was no
>internal leakage.
>Surprise!  A handful of ink!  Good thing I was near the kitchen sink.  It
>appears the spring
>grips the twist portion of the pump and when the nib assembly is removed,
>the pump
>action is reversed and the ink flows rapidly out of the nib.
>Is the cure as simple as gripping that spring and removing it?

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
penturners moderator
Keep the group tidy! Delete excess text when quoting!
http://beautifulhandmadepens.com
========================================

Yeah, I second the Glenn and Keats book. Great resource. There is a
fair amount of useful info on the net also. Check out Miss Mallard
custom calls for starters.

==========================Heisenberg was right!========================
| Dr. Henk J.M. Verhaar           |                                   |
| Environmental Fate and Ecotoxicology Specialist                     |
| Fly Tier                        | web:    www.xs4all.nl/~flyrod     |
| Stichts End 17                  | e-mail: henk@... |
| NL-1244 PK Ankeveen             | phone:  +31 35 656 2128           |
| the Netherlands                 | mobile: +31 638 279 016           |
==========================Uncertainty happens!=========================



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

No spring is needed for the fountain pens.  The instructions will show that the
spring is for rollerballs only.> To: penturners@yahoogroups.com> From:
pcpeckham@...> Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 17:08:19 +0000> Subject:
[penturners] Pump trouble with Retro> > The timing on the question about the
pump in the Retro fountain pen from Craft Supplies > is fortunate. Like Pat, I
just sold a Retro to a fellow who brought it back saying it leaked. ?> When I
tried filling it with liquid ink, it seemed fine and I screwed the assembly
together > with no trouble. Before returning it, though, I unscrewed it to make
sure there was no > internal leakage.> Surprise! A handful of ink! Good thing I
was near the kitchen sink. It appears the spring > grips the twist portion of
the pump and when the nib assembly is removed, the pump > action is reversed and
the ink flows rapidly out of the nib.> Is the cure as simple as gripping that
spring and removing it?> Pat P., Wausau, Wis.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Someone mentioned to me that the hole size in my penblank is affected by the
RPM of my drill press. However, they didn't explain what they meant and I
lost touch with them. Please help with this mystery--what is the
relationship of drill press RPM and hole diameter?

I'm also wondering if the feed speed (how fast I crank down the drill) would
change hole size (other than blowing or burning up the wood, of course).

Thanks so much. My head is great for making pictures of drill and holes, but
it is useless for sorting out the possibilities. So glad you are here!

Love and Light,
Pat


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "Patricia AJ Allen" <pajallen@...>
wrote:
>
> Someone mentioned to me that the hole size in my penblank is
>affected by the RPM of my drill press......

Good question!!  It will be interesting to see what others have to say.

I don't know the answer to this question; but have an intuitive
feeling that with a good drill press and quality drill bits (properly
sharpened) any difference in hole size will be so small as to be
unnoticeable for our purposes.

Randy

Pat,

Twist drills only make holes which are close the desired diameter and sort
of round. Not a precision tool.
Often good enough, otherwise ream and or bore to get accurate holes.
Probably sever over kill for most pen stuff. A bit of glue covers most sins
:-)  Bad ones are best hidden in a wood stove.

Jeff

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 1/2/2009 at 4:18 PM Patricia AJ Allen wrote:

>Someone mentioned to me that the hole size in my penblank is affected by
>the
>RPM of my drill press. However, they didn't explain what they meant and I
>lost touch with them. Please help with this mystery--what is the
>relationship of drill press RPM and hole diameter?
>
>I'm also wondering if the feed speed (how fast I crank down the drill)
>would
>change hole size (other than blowing or burning up the wood, of course).
>
>Thanks so much. My head is great for making pictures of drill and holes,
>but
>it is useless for sorting out the possibilities. So glad you are here!
>
>Love and Light,
>Pat
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>


-
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing

http://www.gmavt.net/~jdemand
jdemand@...
-

--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "Patricia AJ Allen" <pajallen@...>
wrote:
>
> Someone mentioned to me that the hole size in my penblank is
affected by the
> RPM of my drill press. However, they didn't explain what they meant
and I
> lost touch with them. Please help with this mystery--what is the
> relationship of drill press RPM and hole diameter?
>
> I'm also wondering if the feed speed (how fast I crank down the
drill) would
> change hole size (other than blowing or burning up the wood, of
course).
>
> Thanks so much. My head is great for making pictures of drill and
holes, but
> it is useless for sorting out the possibilities. So glad you are
here!
>
> Love and Light,
> Pat
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>


Pat

There are variables when drilling with a drill press. One is quill
runout. If your drill press has any bit of runout that means the hole
you are drilling will be larger. Now it all depends on the runout.
You locked the pice of wood down on the table, the drill bit drills a
hole the size of the drill and now add some wobble in the bit and the
hole is larger.

Next thing is drill feed. If you are using a bit and pushing too hard
you deflect the bit and not allow it to do the cutting and results
are larger hole.

Next thing regarding drill feed. Drill too fast will heat the wood
and could distort the hole thus larger hole. Answer let the bit do
the work and clear the debris out of the hole as you go so you don't
overheat.

As far as RPM goes, you want to drill at the speed the bit is
designed for. Say you were using a fostner bit, you need to slow the
speed down more so than a bullet bit. RPM will actually add to the
problems listed above. But in reality for pen turning these are not
drastic. Wood is a product that continues to live and move.

Just my 2 cents.

I replaced the chuck in my cheap, old Taiwanese drill press with a keyless
Jacobs chuck from Woodcraft for about $35.00 & saw an immediate improvement in
the runout, quality & accuracy of my drilling.  I inherited the drill press, &
am finally satisfied with the holes I make.  Another story of getting what you
pay for.  If you have an inexpensive drill press, you might find this is a
fairly easy way to improve the quality & consistancy of it.

--- On Fri, 1/2/09, Patricia AJ Allen <pajallen@...> wrote:

From: Patricia AJ Allen <pajallen@...>
Subject: [penturners] Drill Press RPM/hole size variation
To: penturners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, January 2, 2009, 4:18 PM






Someone mentioned to me that the hole size in my penblank is affected by the
RPM of my drill press. However, they didn't explain what they meant and I
lost touch with them. Please help with this mystery--what is the
relationship of drill press RPM and hole diameter?

I'm also wondering if the feed speed (how fast I crank down the drill) would
change hole size (other than blowing or burning up the wood, of course).

Thanks so much. My head is great for making pictures of drill and holes, but
it is useless for sorting out the possibilities. So glad you are here!

Love and Light,
Pat

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Another thing I have noted is a dull bit drills a larger hole than a
sharp one. I keep my drill doctor next to the drill press. If  I notice
a bit not cutting easily I stop and touch it up. It only takes a couple
of minutes. I feel it is time well spent. If you do not own a drill
doctor I highly recommend it. It will save you a lot in not ruining
blanks, not to mention the frustration.

Dennis W. Ewing Sr
http://www.onewoodturn.com

Bob McVety wrote:
> I replaced the chuck in my cheap, old Taiwanese drill press with a keyless
Jacobs chuck from Woodcraft for about $35.00 & saw an immediate improvement in
the runout, quality & accuracy of my drilling.  I inherited the drill press, &
am finally satisfied with the holes I make.  Another story of getting what you
pay for.  If you have an inexpensive drill press, you might find this is a
fairly easy way to improve the quality & consistancy of it.
>
>
>

I think I know what you are refer to.  Assume you never change the RPM,
as a drill bit gets larger the cutting speed will increase because of
the increase in diameter.

Here is the info from chart that I found although I am not sure what
material it is for.  Also when working with wood a harder wood should
be drill slower.  I am sure if you look around you could find a better
chart.

1/8" - 3/8" 1200 RPM
3/8" - 1/2" 600 RPM
1/2" - 5/8" 400 RPM
5/8" - 3/4" 350 RPM
3/4" - 7/8" 300 RPM
1" 260 RPM
1 1/8" 240 RPM
1 1/2" 200 RPM

Has anyone tried the funline pens from Penn State?  They are
inexpensive but I am worried about the quality.

What are your quality concerns Paul?  The pen looks very similar to
the Streamline from Berea, with very minor differences, but about 15%
cheaper.  About all that could go wrong with the kit is that the parts
won't seat properly in the tubes which is very unlikely, and the
quality of the platings.  I've had no issues with Penn State's
platings, so I think the kit would be worth trying.  If you're like
me, there is a much better chance that I'll mess things up turning the
blanks than having Penn State put out a bad kit.  :-)

Hope this helps and good luck.

Bob

--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "pault587" <pault587@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone tried the funline pens from Penn State?  They are
> inexpensive but I am worried about the quality.
>

--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "pault587" <pault587@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone tried the funline pens from Penn State?  They are
> inexpensive but I am worried about the quality.
>
I have built several dozen of the funline pens from Penn State without
a single problem.  As far as I can see, the working part (transmission)
appears to be exactly the same as more expensive 7mm kits to me.  The
clips & center bands are more plain is the only difference I've been
able to detect between the funline kits & other more expensive kits
I've seen.

I have made several and all have been fine.

Floyd



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, "pault587" <pault587@...> wrote:
>
> Here is the info from chart that I found although.....

I would be interested in the source of that chart?  The drilling
speeds suggested are significantly different from what I have ever
seen before for drilling in any type of wood.

Randy

Ok, I have just finished building a pressure/vacuum pot in hopes of
creating some very nice PR blanks.  But have read conflicting articles
on which to use and when to use it (pressure or vacuum).  When pouring
new PR blanks, I have read that pressure basically makes the bubbles in
the resin smaller than the eye can see.  If that is the case, what does
vacuum do?  I thought it pulled the bubbles out of the resin.  I have
not been able to find anything regarding how to properly use pressure
or vacuum when it comes to PR blnaks or stabilizing wooden blanks.  Or
even using dyes in corncobs....  If someone could be kind enough to
post something or point me in the right direction I would be most
appreciative.  Thanks

Bob

Here's my unscientific belief/explanation:
Vacuum reduces the "outside the PR" pressure, which reduces the pressure
on the liquid PR.  With the liquid PR no longer exerting 15 psi on the
bubbles, the bubbles  grow in size & buoyancy, getting big enough to
overcome the friction of the liquid PR which can no longer hold them in
place......so they rise to the surface.  After getting rid of most
bubbles that way, then pressure is re-introduced in the second half of
the vacuum/pressure cycle, which puts pressure back on the liquid PR &
shrinks the bubbles down.  Say you go to 50 PSI (I don't know the
pressure rating of your pressure pot), the bubbles are shrunken down
from the vacuum size to the 50 psi size (a transition of 4 atmospheres
of 14.7 PSI (how much pressure exists at sea level in the world we live
in) each....-14.7 for the vacuum & then 3 atmospheres to get to 50 psi)
I use silicon based molding material to make resin model parts, when I
use vacuum to de-bubble the liquid molding material - it will boil and
increase in volume by 2 or 3 times.  After  the bubbles have expanded
and gone to the surface, the material goes back to it's original
volume.  Kinda fun to watch it happening, I have a thick plastic lid
that I used until it cracked.  I use an aluminum one now.
Jon

Bob wrote:
>
> Ok, I have just finished building a pressure/vacuum pot in hopes of
> creating some very nice PR blanks. But have read conflicting articles
> on which to use and when to use it (pressure or vacuum). When pouring
> new PR blanks, I have read that pressure basically makes the bubbles in
> the resin smaller than the eye can see. If that is the case, what does
> vacuum do? I thought it pulled the bubbles out of the resin. I have
> not been able to find anything regarding how to properly use pressure
> or vacuum when it comes to PR blnaks or stabilizing wooden blanks. Or
> even using dyes in corncobs.... If someone could be kind enough to
> post something or point me in the right direction I would be most
> appreciative. Thanks
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 3733 (20090102) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Bob,



You’re right in that the higher pressure is supposed to make the bubbles
smaller.



On the other hand, the vacuum is designed to remove the air in the voids in
the wood, thus allowing the resin to get into the voids. It also is supposed
to remove the air pockets in the resin.



Myself, I’ve always thought it better to apply vacuum to the piece to remove
the air pockets, and then release the vacuum to allow the resin to flow into
the pockets, then apply the vacuum again.



When I used to work with oil impregnated bushings, we would “revive” the
bushings by putting them in a jar of oil, then placing that in a vacuum
chamber for at least 24 hours. A pressure pot didn’t do as good of a job in
getting the oil back into the bushings. Also, along the same lines, the
quick meat marinating machines rely on a vacuum chamber.



Regards,
-Steve
http://woodworking.bigelowsite.com <http://woodworking.bigelowsite.com/>



   _____

From: penturners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:penturners@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 10:22 AM
To: penturners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [penturners] Pressure vs Vacuum (Acrylics)



Ok, I have just finished building a pressure/vacuum pot in hopes of
creating some very nice PR blanks. But have read conflicting articles
on which to use and when to use it (pressure or vacuum). When pouring





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I only cast snake skins and labels using clear polyester resin. I'm
not much help when it comes to using coloring. I also do not stabilize
blanks. I have found that purchasing blanks already stabilized or
having them done by one of the stabilizing services works better for
me. I can't do either nearly as well as the what I can purchase.
Although, it can be fun trying, but I would rather spend my time turning.

When I make snake blanks I place the uncatalyzed PR in my paint tank
and pull a vacuum to pull the dissolved air from the resin. A
container larger than the amount of PR is necessary since the air
being released makes the PR bubble and foam and if the container is
too small the resin will spill over. I then add the catalyst and pour.
But, I no longer use vacuum for clear casting. I place the resin in an
ultrasonic cleaner with hot water. I can tell you more of this if you
want.

When the resin is poured into the mold I place the mold in the same
paint tank and pressurize it to 25-30 psi. I've read some arguments
that the air bubbles are not really squeezed(as I once thought) but
I'm no physicist nor chemist. But I think the universal gas laws don't
support the air bubbles being squeezed really small. It doesn't
matter, I get much better results when using pressure than when I
don't. So, what ever is happening physically (even though I don't know
nor understand) is not of interest to me, but whatever does happen
makes the clear castings look much better.

Maybe others who make colored blanks or who stabilize will chime in.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

I meant to mention that there are several excellent articles on
casting in the files area. Look in the special techniques folder. Look
for the one by Richard Greenwald.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

To join the thread;  Generally the hole a drill bit makes is an
approximate size.  Drill bits have a property called "un-winding" which
means the more force you apply to a drill bit the hole will be
*slightly* lager.  The differences are at most .005"

1.  Faster speed drill RPM makes a larger hole.
2.  Acrylic makes a larger hole; wood makes a slightly smaller hole.
3.  Dull bit will make a larger hole.
4.  Drilling a hole in steps or enlarging a hole results in a smaller
hole than if you drilled it in one go.

I try to size the hole so it is a close slip fit with the tube.




Later....       Randy S
mailto:randyrls@...
Practice random kindness and commit senseless acts of beauty.






Patricia AJ Allen wrote:
> Someone mentioned to me that the hole size in my penblank is affected by the
> RPM of my drill press. However, they didn't explain what they meant and I
> lost touch with them. Please help with this mystery--what is the
> relationship of drill press RPM and hole diameter?
>
> I'm also wondering if the feed speed (how fast I crank down the drill) would
> change hole size (other than blowing or burning up the wood, of course).
>
> Thanks so much. My head is great for making pictures of drill and holes, but
> it is useless for sorting out the possibilities. So glad you are here!
>
> Love and Light,
> Pat
>
>

Don;  I believe that what is happening is that the pressure causes the
gas to dissolve in the PR.  This is similar to what happens to scuba
divers under pressure.  Nitrogen collects in the bloodstream.  If the
diver rises too quickly the nitrogen forms bubbles and it is very
painful and can be fatal.

30 PSI would be about 40 feet of depth.  40 PSI would be about 55-60 feet.

Later....       Randy S
mailto:randyrls@...
Practice random kindness and commit senseless acts of beauty.






Don Ward wrote:
>
>
> When the resin is poured into the mold I place the mold in the same
> paint tank and pressurize it to 25-30 psi. I've read some arguments
> that the air bubbles are not really squeezed(as I once thought) but
> I'm no physicist nor chemist. But I think the universal gas laws don't
> support the air bubbles being squeezed really small. It doesn't
> matter, I get much better results when using pressure than when I
> don't. So, what ever is happening physically (even though I don't know
> nor understand) is not of interest to me, but whatever does happen
> makes the clear castings look much better.
>

Thanks Randy. I had been told that at one time and couldn't remember
just what the pressure did. The vacuum removes air and what is left
dissolves back into the solution. And I'm scuba certified and should
have remembered that. Thanks again. Happy casting.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
--- In penturners@yahoogroups.com, Randy Smith <randyrls@...> wrote:
>
> Don;  I believe that what is happening is that the pressure causes the
> gas to dissolve in the PR.  This is similar to what happens to scuba
> divers under pressure.  Nitrogen collects in the bloodstream.  If the
> diver rises too quickly the nitrogen forms bubbles and it is very
> painful and can be fatal.
>
> 30 PSI would be about 40 feet of depth.  40 PSI would be about 55-60
feet.
>
> Later....       Randy S
> mailto:randyrls@...
> Practice random kindness and commit senseless acts of beauty.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Don Ward wrote:
> >
> >
> > When the resin is poured into the mold I place the mold in the same
> > paint tank and pressurize it to 25-30 psi. I've read some arguments
> > that the air bubbles are not really squeezed(as I once thought) but
> > I'm no physicist nor chemist. But I think the universal gas laws don't
> > support the air bubbles being squeezed really small. It doesn't
> > matter, I get much better results when using pressure than when I
> > don't. So, what ever is happening physically (even though I don't know
> > nor understand) is not of interest to me, but whatever does happen
> > makes the clear castings look much better.
> >
>

> Don;  I believe that what is happening is that the pressure causes the
> gas to dissolve in the PR.  This is similar to what happens to scuba
> divers under pressure.  Nitrogen collects in the bloodstream.  If the
> diver rises too quickly the nitrogen forms bubbles and it is very
> painful and can be fatal.
>
> 30 PSI would be about 40 feet of depth.  40 PSI would be about 55-60 feet.
>
> Later....       Randy S


That's exactly what happens, provided you get the pressure right.  The same
thing happens with fizzy drinks, opening the bottle releases the pressure,
the gas comes out of the solution, and bubbles appear.

Tony