I am contract welding for a scrap yard on their metal shredder (mill)
and it involves welding manganese to itself and also manganese to
carbon steel. If anyone can help me with pre-heat temps, polarity,
methods or any other knowledge, I would be greatly appreciative.

I am using Stultz 1616 alloy. Stultz has been near zero help as to any
technical info on their rod.

Thanks, George

I don't know about the welding of manganese, however I've heard it's
Very toxic.
Don


--- Olympic <ghusted@...> wrote:

> I am contract welding for a scrap yard on their metal shredder (mill)
>
> and it involves welding manganese to itself and also manganese to
> carbon steel. If anyone can help me with pre-heat temps, polarity,
> methods or any other knowledge, I would be greatly appreciative.
>
> I am using Stultz 1616 alloy. Stultz has been near zero help as to
> any
> technical info on their rod.
>
> Thanks, George
>
>

Does anyone have experience with that little 220v 110 amp inverter
welder that Harbor Freight is selling??  It normally lists for $299,
but is now on sale for $199.

Comments pro or con??

I doubt that you are welding manganese to itself.  I would suspect that
you are welding high manganese steel.

from the Stultz web site

*STULZ 1616 ELECTRODES*

All purpose high chromium, high manganese for high strength joining of
manganese steel to other alloy steels and for multi-pass build-up for
good wear resistance. Cannot be flame cut. Standard length 14". AC-DC




Olympic wrote:
>
> I am contract welding for a scrap yard on their metal shredder (mill)
> and it involves welding manganese to itself and also manganese to
> carbon steel. If anyone can help me with pre-heat temps, polarity,
> methods or any other knowledge, I would be greatly appreciative.
>
> I am using Stultz 1616 alloy. Stultz has been near zero help as to any
> technical info on their rod.
>
> Thanks, George
>
>

----- Original Message -----

From: Bradford Chaucer

To: welding_group@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 11:30 AM

Subject: [welding_group] Harbor Freight Inverter TIG welder

Does anyone have experience with that little 220v 110 amp inverter
welder that Harbor Freight is selling?? It normally lists for $299,
but is now on sale for $199.

Comments pro or con??

I have a Marquette 25 amp plasma cutter # 12149, I bought it on Ebay
from a
flake! It doesn't work! Looks new has been used at least once (residue in
nozzle) seems like the big contactors are not engaging, the 3 small
contactors are working OK. The nozzle puts out air but will not
ignite. Any
Ideas??? Thanks
Rowland

----- Original Message -----

From: Casey Roach

To: welding_group@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 6:22 AM

Subject: Re: [welding_group] Marquette Plasma Cutter

try changing the electrod in the cutting head those are expendable parts and some times they  wear out and will not alowe the machien to operate  hope that is what it is as mine the amp jumper was bad and it was not real expencive but a pain to change hope this helps and good luck --- On Mon, 3/3/08, rsmuck <rsmuck@hughes.net> wrote: From: rsmuck <rsmuck@hughes.net> Subject: [welding_group] Marquette Plasma Cutter To: welding_group@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, March 3, 2008, 9:41 PM I have a Marquette 25 amp plasma cutter # 12149, I bought it on Ebay from a flake! It doesn't work! Looks new has been used at least once (residue in nozzle) seems like the big contactors are not engaging, the 3 small contactors are working OK. The nozzle puts out air but will not ignite. Any Ideas??? Thanks Rowland

---

Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

Has anyone on the list tried one of these.

http://www.multiplaz.com/about.php

They run on Vodka

Ken

--- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com, Lee Clark <laclark@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>    I am taking a basic OA and stick welding course at the local
> vocational school.  I'm having trouble with t joints.  The first
side
> goes fairly well, the second side is a disaster.  Can anyone give
me
> some advice on this?  A basic tutorial would be great!  As I
understand
> it, I'm supposed to point the torch right in the crux of the two
pieces
> of metal, but on the second side I seem to need more heat, and
then I
> blow a hole through the metal, or I have trouble getting the
puddle moving.
>
> Help?
>
> Thanks
> lee
>Sounds like you are oxy acetalyne welding.When you weld the first
side, a slag deposite forms on the oppisite side, try cleaning with
wire wheel before welding. if your burning through, your staying to
long in the puddle,keep it moving & don't point directly at puddle
use a slight angle 10 - 15 degrees,from 90.

Don't forget that when you weld the second side you have more metal to
heat up.  The filler metal on the first side will work as a heat sink
and take some of the heat away from you weld.



m.nick395 wrote:
>
> --- In welding_group@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:welding_group%40yahoogroups.com>, Lee Clark <laclark@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Thanks
> > lee
> >Sounds like you are oxy acetalyne welding.When you weld the first
> side, a slag deposite forms on the oppisite side, try cleaning with
> wire wheel before welding. if your burning through, your staying to
> long in the puddle,keep it moving & don't point directly at puddle
> use a slight angle 10 - 15 degrees,from 90.
>
>

but you also need to remember that if you weld the other side right away its
still very hot and contributes too the burn through problem


ken

Ken wrote:
> Has anyone on the list tried one of these.
>
> http://www.multiplaz.com/about.php
>
> They run on Vodka
>
> Ken
>

No, but I looked at the web site.  The technical errors are astounding.
For example, they claim it takes 2.5 KW *AND* can be run from a 110 VAC
outlet.  My best bet is that they are confused, they claim that three
100 Watt light bulbs are the equivalent to 2.5 KW -- that is not
correct, 25 - 100 Watt light bulbs are 2.5 KW.

I would have to see one work to believe that it is a working device.

--
David G. LeVine
Nashua, NH  03060

I know nothing about welding, but I built the arc welding gun from
these plans:

http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%
232.pdf

I tried to spot weld two small 26 gauge zinc-coated pieces of sheet
metal together.

I was using an import buzz box at various currents between 30 and 70
amps. I was using a 1/16" Lincoln 6013 welding rod.

I burny tqo holes, welded two welding rods to one sheet, and left many
dark mars on the top sheet. Nothing that looked like a spot well rslted.

Advice?

Grant

David G. LeVine wrote:

> No, but I looked at the web site. The technical errors are astounding.
> For example, they claim it takes 2.5 KW *AND* can be run from a 110 VAC
> outlet. My best bet is that they are confused, they claim that three
> 100 Watt light bulbs are the equivalent to 2.5 KW -- that is not
> correct, 25 - 100 Watt light bulbs are 2.5 KW.

Yea I noticed that as well.

> I would have to see one work to believe that it is a working device.

I looked up the US patents cited and they do appear legitimate.
I'd hazard the device is real but agree a demonstration would
be needed before laying down $1700.

--
uhmgawa@...

grantfair2001 wrote:
>
>
> I know nothing about welding, but I built the arc welding gun from
> these plans:
>
> http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%
> <http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%>
> 232.pdf
>
> I tried to spot weld two small 26 gauge zinc-coated pieces of sheet
> metal together.
>
> I was using an import buzz box at various currents between 30 and 70
> amps. I was using a 1/16" Lincoln 6013 welding rod.
>
> I burny tqo holes, welded two welding rods to one sheet, and left many
> dark mars on the top sheet. Nothing that looked like a spot well rslted.
>
> Advice?

It is a stick arc welder rather than a spot welder
despite what the pitch would suggest.  The quip of
"burn holes in sheet metal faster than you can drill
them" itself should raise suspicion.  Although I
don't doubt there are some applications where it is
of benefit compared to an unadorned stick electrode
held in the hand.

Spot welding passes a high current at low voltage
through the base metal causing it to melt and fuse
together.  Any arcing generated is incidental and
doesn't effectively contribute to the welding
operation.

To get some sense of the difference between arc
and spot resistance welding, a 2.5KW/240VAC spot
welder will generate ~1400A @ 1.8VAC.  An arc welding
power source has an open circuit voltage of 20-80V
depending upon process and significantly less current
output for hand held operation.

--
uhmgawa@...

Since granfair2001 admits that he knows nothing about welding, is it
reasonable to make the point that one must be very careful welding
zinc-coated metals -- the gas given off can be hazardous.

Bill

uhmgawa wrote:
>
> grantfair2001 wrote:
> >
> >
> > I know nothing about welding, but I built the arc welding gun from
> > these plans:
> >
> >
> http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%
> <http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%>
> >
> <http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%
> <http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%>>
> > 232.pdf
> >
> > I tried to spot weld two small 26 gauge zinc-coated pieces of sheet
> > metal together.
> >
> > I was using an import buzz box at various currents between 30 and 70
> > amps. I was using a 1/16" Lincoln 6013 welding rod.
> >
> > I burny tqo holes, welded two welding rods to one sheet, and left many
> > dark mars on the top sheet. Nothing that looked like a spot well rslted.
> >
> > Advice?
>
> It is a stick arc welder rather than a spot welder
> despite what the pitch would suggest. The quip of
> "burn holes in sheet metal faster than you can drill
> them" itself should raise suspicion. Although I
> don't doubt there are some applications where it is
> of benefit compared to an unadorned stick electrode
> held in the hand.
>
> Spot welding passes a high current at low voltage
> through the base metal causing it to melt and fuse
> together. Any arcing generated is incidental and
> doesn't effectively contribute to the welding
> operation.
>
> To get some sense of the difference between arc
> and spot resistance welding, a 2.5KW/240VAC spot
> welder will generate ~1400A @ 1.8VAC. An arc welding
> power source has an open circuit voltage of 20-80V
> depending upon process and significantly less current
> output for hand held operation.
>
> --
> uhmgawa@... <mailto:uhmgawa%40third-harmonic.com>
>
>

Thank you everyone who responded to my plea for help!  I have been using
two coupons to keep the pieces I'm working on off the fire brick.  Turns
out those two pieces of support metal were part of the problem.  I could
weld (somewhat) fine until I came over those supports, and then the
puddle would just seize up.  Last night, when I reached that area, I
stopped and moved the support metal over and out of the way, and found I
could continue welding.

Now if I could only stop blowing holes through the metal!  My instructor
says he thinks I raise the torch and that's why I'm having this problem.

Thanks again!

Lee


Area6285 wrote:
>
> but you also need to remember that if you weld the other side right
> away its
> still very hot and contributes too the burn through problem
>
> ken
>
>

grantfair2001 wrote:
> I know nothing about welding, but I built the arc welding gun from
> these plans:
>
> http://www.green-trust.org/junkyardprojects/FreeWelderPlans/SpotWelder%
> 232.pdf
>
> I tried to spot weld two small 26 gauge zinc-coated pieces of sheet
> metal together.
>
> I was using an import buzz box at various currents between 30 and 70
> amps. I was using a 1/16" Lincoln 6013 welding rod.
>
> I burny tqo holes, welded two welding rods to one sheet, and left many
> dark mars on the top sheet. Nothing that looked like a spot well rslted.
>
> Advice?
>
Galvanized coatings make for poor welds.  Try plain CRS or cleaned HRS
for a test.

--
David G. LeVine
Nashua, NH  03060

Hello,
    Does anyone have one of these
http://www.tooltown.org/metal/compact-bender.htm?  How is it?

  I'm also looking at the Harbor Freight Bender, any feedback on those?
Also the Harbor Freight ring roller?

Thanks
Lee

Thanks!  What about this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
?  I'm trying to decide between the bender and this.  It would be for
ornamental work and furniture.

Lee




Casey Roach wrote:
>
> I have used one simalar to that one it worked good  but like it said
> you cant bend tubing or pipe  it is for ornamental iron work such as
> for windows or stuff like that when i used it it was great for what i
> needed it workes on round stock   flat   square    any kind of soliad
> stock   it has a tindacnese   to crush tubing and such   hope this
> helps ya out
>
> --- On *Fri, 3/7/08, Lee Clark /<laclark@...>/* wrote:
>
>     From: Lee Clark <laclark@...>
>     Subject: [welding_group] Tool reviews
>     To: welding_group@yahoogroups.com
>     Date: Friday, March 7, 2008, 5:29 PM
>
>     Hello,
>     Does anyone have one of these
>     http://www.tooltown .org/metal/ compact-bender. htm?
>     <http://www.tooltown.org/metal/compact-bender.htm?> How is it?
>
>     I'm also looking at the Harbor Freight Bender, any feedback on those?
>     Also the Harbor Freight ring roller?
>
>     Thanks
>     Lee
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
> <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51438/*http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs>
>

Well, that didn't work, how about this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36131

Lee


Lee Clark wrote:
>
> Thanks! What about this:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search
> <http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?function=Search>
> ? I'm trying to decide between the bender and this. It would be for
> ornamental work and furniture.
>
> Lee
>
>

I got rid of the galvanized flashing - it was scrap.

So, I tried it on two pieces of 20 gauge sheet metal - I sanded a spot
on all four sides - applied the gun - and . . .same result.

On top  of that, it again welded the electrode to the metal, which
heated up till it was orange and bent all out of shape!

My welder is buzz-box, AC only, and the only adjustment is current.
There is no adjustment for "heat" (is that duty cycle?).

The article says to use "match tip, self-starting welding electrodes"
with a current of 75 amps. This last try was at 45 amps. (The 1/16,
E6013 rods are specified at 20 to 45 amps.)

Where would I find a "match tip" electrode?

Other ideas?

----- Original Message -----

From: Casey Roach

To: welding_group@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 6:28 AM

Subject: Re: [welding_group] Arc welder gun advice.

yes i would be careful and use a well vetalated area when welding zinc coated or galvinized matterial the zinc and lead in these can cause galv poisining which will make you feel as if you have a bad case of the flu     it not much fun lol     be careful and have fun    hope thise helps  --- On Fri, 3/7/08, Bill Rubenstein <wsr2@swbell.net> wrote: From: Bill Rubenstein <wsr2@swbell.net> Subject: Re: [welding_group] Arc welder gun advice. To: welding_group@yahoogroups.com Date: Friday, March 7, 2008, 4:20 AM Since granfair2001 admits that he knows nothing about welding, is it reasonable to make the point that one must be very careful welding zinc-coated metals -- the gas given off can be hazardous. Bill uhmgawa wrote: > > grantfair2001 wrote: > > > > > > I know nothing about welding, but I built the arc welding gun from > > these plans: > > > > > http://www.green- trust.org/ junkyardprojects /FreeWelderPlans /SpotWelder% > <http://www.green- trust.org/ junkyardprojects /FreeWelderPlans /SpotWelder%> > > > <http://www.green- trust.org/ junkyardprojects /FreeWelderPlans /SpotWelder% > <http://www.green- trust.org/ junkyardprojects /FreeWelderPlans /SpotWelder%>> > > 232.pdf > > > > I tried to spot weld two small 26 gauge zinc-coated pieces of sheet > > metal together. > > > > I was using an import buzz box at various currents between 30 and 70 > > amps. I was using a 1/16" Lincoln 6013 welding rod. > > > > I burny tqo holes, welded two welding rods to one sheet, and left many > > dark mars on the top sheet. Nothing that looked like a spot well rslted. > > > > Advice? > > It is a stick arc welder rather than a spot welder > despite what the pitch would suggest. The quip of > "burn holes in sheet metal faster than you can drill > them" itself should raise suspicion. Although I > don't doubt there are some applications where it is > of benefit compared to an unadorned stick electrode > held in the hand. > > Spot welding passes a high current at low voltage > through the base metal causing it to melt and fuse > together. Any arcing generated is incidental and > doesn't effectively contribute to the welding > operation. > > To get some sense of the difference between arc > and spot resistance welding, a 2.5KW/240VAC spot > welder will generate ~1400A @ 1.8VAC. An arc welding > power source has an open circuit voltage of 20-80V > depending upon process and significantly less current > output for hand held operation. > > -- > uhmgawa@third- harmonic. com <mailto:uhmgawa% 40third-harmonic .com> > >

---

Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

i wanted to shave off the head of the bolt
trying to figure out the best way
1.weld a heavy washer on the back then grind off the head.
  then weld it from the front and smooth out.

2. cut the head, put nut and bolt on it put it in the bumper then weld
the face. then weld the washer on the back.

the first way i have seen that a few years later it rusted out

what should i use an arc with 7014 rod?

any suggestions?
thank you