You guys might find this to be interesting......
I have a more robust cnc-cutter coming to me. and here is what
someone is doing with a lighter-duty machine.
Best to Ya,
Begin forwarded message:
> From: cschultz@...
> Date: June 26, 2007 12:48:23 PM CDT
> To: hotractionmodeling
> Mike Bauers wrote:
>> I assume I'll be making layers of card or sheet styrene to make my
>> bodies in the classic fashion of layered sides.
>> I have two questions......
>> In HO.......
>> 1. What cement is safe to use to laminated sheets of styrene? [I
>> don't want to melt the laminated car sides and assemblies.]
>> 2. Since I'll be using between 0.010 card and 0.020 sheet
>> styrene......... What's a good final wall thickness to shoot for ??
>> [walls will be 4-5 layers between the inner-most and outer] Gussets,
>> braces, and bulkheads allowed as part of the bodies.........
>> I'll soon be making test pieces and am hoping for some initial
>> suggestions to try with these..........
> Mike -
> Thanks to your reply to my vinyl-cutter question, I bought a Craft
> Robo to play
> with (thanks to its recent big price reduction, presumably in
> response to the
> imminent release of the KnK Element). I cadged some vinyl scraps
> from my local
> sign maker to play with, and I can say definitively that vinyl
> doesn't work;
> it's too thin and flexible, and its adhesive is far too aggressive
> - if you
> don't have the pieces *perfectly* aligned before they make first
> contact, you
> have lost both pieces. And at only 0.003, it would take a lot of
> layers to
> build up a car side, with each added layer running the risk of
> spoiling the
> whole assembly. I suppose if some very accurate pin-registration
> system could
> be worked out...
> So I started playing with card stock. Works like a charm. I'm using
> 0.010 card
> stock and 0.008 cover stock. I'm playing with a very generic 7-
> window car side
> with just five layers - from bottom to top: clear plastic (0.006)
> for the
> windows, 0.008 cover stock for the sashes, 0.010 card stock for the
> posts, 0.010 card stock for the lower side panel, and 0.010 card
> stock for the
> letterboard and belt rail - that's 0.044 total. To my eye it looks
> pretty good
> - maybe not quite as fine as Halling's good stuff, but a whole lot
> better than
> the Bachman bodies. In due course I'll upload some pictures.
> I'm gluing them together using a glue stick because it doesn't run,
> repositioning for perfect alignment before it dries, and will bond
> both the
> mylar windows and the card stock. It's important that it not run
> (like the
> liquid plastic bonding stuff does) because my whole purpose in
> exploring this
> type of construction is to be able to prepaint each layer - I am a
> truly klutzy
> painter and could never paint window posts and window sash
> different colors on
> an already assembled piece (and all the same color looks really
> lame, as for
> instance Baltimore painted its semi-convertibles in later years). I
> just ruined
> the paint job on a Herrmann & Partners KT4D because the plastic
> cement ran -
> I'll have to disassemble and repaint. The waxy glue stick doesn't
> run, so it
> won't ruin the prepainted pieces, and it's plenty strong enough to
> bond large
> flat surfaces. I doubt it would work on edges - I'll use epoxy or
> Krazy Glue to
> glue the sides and ends together. The container says the glue stick
> is permanent
> - we'll see...
> Eventually rather than pre-painting I'll try pre-printing the
> sides, so I don't
> have to mess with decals for lettering and other graphic details -
> the Craft
> Robo will read registration marks that the inkjet prints and adjust
> its cut
> lines accordingly (but not having tried this yet, I don't know if
> it is
> accurate enough).
> If you (or anyone else on the list) wants something to play with, I
> could upload
> the Illustrator file I am using. I haven't even tried the Robo
> Master program
> that came with the cutter because I already know Illustrator and the
> Illustrator plug-in for the Craft Robo works as advertised. It
> *does* take two
> passes to cut all the way through the card stock (probably the KnK
> will do it
> in one), and I was surprised that it was accurate enough to lay
> down the second
> cut directly on top of the first (you just copy and paste the
> second copy of the
> artwork directly on top of the first). You can control cutting
> order by
> rearranging the layers - it cuts from top to bottom in the layers
> palette. You
> can control straight cut and perforated cuts (for fold lines) by
> So far I am very pleased with my experiments.
> Carl Schultz