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, "brentswain38" <brentswain38@...> wrote:
> How difficult was it to move and raise the keels with the lead in them?
It was easier than we thought it would be. When full of lead the keels sat upright on their wing bases as we dragged them in position using a chain hoist laid on its side with the endless chain twisted so that the chain returning to the gypsy was supported by the chain being pulled. This to avoid the chain jamming in the gypsy. Before filling the keels we canted them over a bit so the molten lead could flow into the toe of the keel wing. We also positioned them so that they mostly lined up with their respective slots in the hull. We lifted them into position using two chain hoists hooked onto lugs welded to the cabin top which was reinforced with steel and timber struts. Scaffold pole struts were welded to the hull to keep it stable and level. Come alongs, chocks and jacks were used to get the correct keel angles before they were welded into place.
Hasidan mentioned about using a tiger torch to melt lead in the keel. We did this to remove splashes where we did not want lead and to fill the voids left when the lead solidified and shrunk away from the side. It caused distortion of the steel sides as has been mentioned, so I would also recommend caution. In the end we made a wooden shute to guide the molten lead where we wanted it. I used wood as it cools the lead less thasn a steel one and it's easy. It did several pours before it caught fire but that was easily put out by brushing with a leather gloved hand. Don't use water as the ensuing steam and spitting molten lead can be unpleasant.
There is a photo (photos section under 36' Fly) of the two chain hoists being used to lift the port keel into place.